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Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: sinto on 20 June 2015, 02:46:34 pm
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As above really :)
I'm going to remove my forks to take to a bike mechanic to do my seals, put in decent oil, and maybe change the springs, just looking for some hints and tips for doing this please, and also what rate of oil should I put in them for my 10 1/2 stone with kit on but odd pillion on too.
Thanks.
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15w instead of the advised 10w
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hints on how to remove the forks??
I hung my bike from the ceiling ;) using 2 ratchet straps at either end of the bars, bike on center stand.. pull up until rear wheel is on the ground.. drop the front wheel out... loosen pinch bolts... what forks fall on you toe :'(
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Just got new Hyperpro springs in my front fork and on the rear damper. It is a complete kit, and its working very good.
http://hyperpro.com/en/ (http://hyperpro.com/en/)
Now it is at magic carpet ride!!
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Cheers Paul, I'll make sure i get the heavier stuff seems to be the way to go :)
Stevie, I'm hoping not to drop any of them on my toes, but I'll certainly watch out for it :eek
Guessing, you can still drop the wheel off when it's on its centre stand? Provided it's supported with the straps as you suggest.
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Just got new Hyperpro springs in my front fork and on the rear damper. It is a complete kit, and its working very good.
[url]http://hyperpro.com/en/[/url] ([url]http://hyperpro.com/en/[/url])
Now it is at magic carpet ride!!
Seems a good set Bimbam, if only I could figure out their website, can't seem to search for the bike :(
Was your set for the fzs600-fazer? How much was it if you don't mind me asking?
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Hi Sinto. I live in Denmark and got it from The Scandinavian dealer.
It is called a Combikit. : SP-YA06-SSC004. And the price was 2.100 Dk = about 280 euro.
It is like a new bike now :)
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Cheers Bimbam,
That works out about £200, did you have to fit them yourself, was it easy enough?
Found this...
http://calsport.co.uk/yamaha-fzs-600-fazer-0003-2000/hyperpro-suspension/hyperpro-shocks-and-springs/SP-YA06-SSC004/ (http://calsport.co.uk/yamaha-fzs-600-fazer-0003-2000/hyperpro-suspension/hyperpro-shocks-and-springs/SP-YA06-SSC004/)
This is for 00-03, does anybody know if it's the same as the 98?
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the more i read the more i think stick with progressives for our roads, but i am not sure, thats personal preference...
hagon and hyperpro do progressive sets that are stiffer than OEM springs and have seen good feedback on here about both
actually have my forks springs out now waiting to put a new pair in the next week.....
as for the oil weights, i am looking into that as well so cannot advise yet but i do think if you get a firmer spring you will need a different oil for increase the damping affects to match the spring - but someone may come along and tell me thats crap.... :lol
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Found it on that site,
You can get loads for the 98 too
Oh dam these choices :lol
http://calsport.co.uk/yamaha-fzs-600-fazer-9899-1998/hyperpro-suspension/ (http://calsport.co.uk/yamaha-fzs-600-fazer-9899-1998/hyperpro-suspension/)
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Hi. it was pretty easy. Just read the manuel. Remember to mount the front legs 15 mm higer up. (it is in the manuel)
In my opinion, the small bumps are better than before and the big/hard bumps dosent rock the bike.
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Sinto, yep, once its on the center stand you can then take the wheel out, then losen the fork bolts....
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Sinto, yep, once its on the center stand you can then take the wheel out, then losen the fork bolts....
Did you strip yours down? Or just remove the springs, you weren't doing your seals were you?
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i have tanken the springs out and drained the oil....plan to replace springs and oil not touching seals....think it might be tricky and they are ok for now....
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Hi. it was pretty easy. Just read the manuel. Remember to mount the front legs 15 mm higer up. (it is in the manuel)
In my opinion, the small bumps are better than before and the big/hard bumps dosent rock the bike.
Think that 15mm is just for the 00-03 models, can't see it for the 98-99 :(
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Hi. The 15 mm is printed on the front site off the manuel that comes with the kit.
Please be careful, when you chance the spring on the rear damper.
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Hi. The 15 mm is printed on the front site off the manuel that comes with the kit.
Ahh it comes with the set, I was looking at the official manual. Dint understand why they say to make it 15mm above though :(
Please be careful, when you chance the spring on the rear damper.
In what sense? As long as you compress the spring using the right tools, should be easy, I've changed a spring before on my BMW, wasn't too hard.
I'm still not convinced to change all the springs at the moment, as it's actually just my seal on left fork that's leaking, wonder if it's worth waiting a month and doing the lot, as it's not a bad price, but I'm more concerned about no oil in front fork :(
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15w oil, all day long, massive improvement with control, especially with passengers.
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can someone give me a quick step by step on how to change fork oil?
like
1. remove caps
2. do this
3. put in xxxml of oil
4. put cap on
can i just take forks out undo the top bolt, tip it up to empty it then just refil?
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can someone give me a quick step by step on how to change fork oil?
like
1. remove caps
2. do this
3. put in xxxml of oil
4. put cap on
Slighty undo caps while forks are tight in bike, pour the oil into a jug and replace with that amount ( for each leg ) or if you think it's too much less like when it's been leaking then use recommended amount. I go against the grain and never measure the level like most probably do, i just put the oil in and work the shock for the first 3 inches of travel to settle the oil. Just watch the spring, washer and spacer, if they come out then be sure to replace exactly as they were. And yes, use 15wt.
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so i can just undo caps take fork out turn it upside down but keep hand over it to stop everything falling out.
last oil change i did was around 5 years ago and i did the seals at the same time.
seals where only done on my bike around 4k miles ago.
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No need to change seals if no sign of oil, even if dust seals are ok it's worth prising them up to make sure things are clean and dry underneath. You can lay spring washer and spacer on something clean, noting close coil end on springs and letting any excess oil to drip into fork tube first ( for the jug level ), i always use rubber gloves. Sounds a bit anal but i always clean the fork tubes of bugs after a ride, they are enough to make the seals leak.
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You have to take the springs, spacers and washers out to measure the oil level so no point trying to keep them in while draining the oil out
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any pointers on HOW to measure the oil level, if you actually pre-measured the correct ammount, could you not just pour it in?
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You can't pre-measure accurately, only enough to get you close.
The actual measurement is done by measuring the distance from the oil level to the top of the fork (AKA the air gap). It's suprisingly sensitive, a little oil can make a big difference. You have a specific measurement to get to, but it's also important that both sides are equal.
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ok understood.....so, HOW do you verify the same level?
I might cut some length of plastic and use it as a dip type stick...
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Just a had quote to do my fork seals...
Both quotes for loose forks...
Guy in shawlands £40 no oil
Ride on motorbikes £100 including oil
So I guess it's get the forks off time now :(
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hi sinto, are they local?
when i was thinking of sending mine away i needed good packing materials....local carpet shop was happy to give me loose cardboard rolls that the carpt came on.....nice and tought and fit the forks nicely....with a bit of bubble wrap
:lol
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hi sinto, are they local?
when i was thinking of sending mine away i needed good packing materials....local carpet shop was happy to give me loose cardboard rolls that the carpt came on.....nice and tought and fit the forks nicely....with a bit of bubble wrap
:lol
Don't you have a local shop or any guy that's closer to you?
Yes, both places within 5miles of my house, can drop them one day then collect them a couple of days later, although I was hoping to drop them off on a sat morning as I'm working away in Carlisle for a week, where I use my cage, then collect them when I return. But the guy says he's closed when I wanted to do it, so I just need to use my cage next week :eek
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yes have shops close, it was when i was considering sending them to a company that sold springs, but gave it a go myself and was not hard - changing springs, not done fork seals....think you need a certain set of tools...
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Don't think you need 'special' tools as there's always stuff around you can use and having a bit of savvy helps too :rolleyes
I've done fork seals before and no hassle, only thing is...it's a foccin dirty job and where do you get rid of the old oil is a pain now :eek so for the price for someone to do them of the bike, let them have the hassles :lol
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To answer you earlier question use something clean to use as a dipstick. I used a large screwdriver last time with a bit of tape wrapped round the shaft so when the bottom of the handle was resting on the top of the fork tube the bottom of the tape was at the required oil level. You can get setups with a syringe with a long calibrated tube so you slightly over fill the for and then suck the oil out till it falls to the right level.
You local council dump should have a waste oil tank.
But your right it can be messy and once the oil contaminated with water it stinks
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hi,
Regarding the 15mm in post 10, 14 and pictured in post 15.
What manual and does anyone have a copy I would like to understand why the 15mm and what it does to the front suspension.
Cheers,
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hi,
Regarding the 15mm in post 10, 14 and pictured in post 15.
What manual and does anyone have a copy I would like to understand why the 15mm and what it does to the front suspension.
Cheers,
I've got a manual and the download for the 98 fazer and can't find that anywhere, mind you, I don't have the damper screw on top so it might be just for that model??
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So I was out in the garage contemplating what I'll need to do to get these forks off...
All looks easy enough, got the beam to support the front or I'll just use my eazyrizer lift, not decided yet, but has anyone came across any problems once they've taken the front wheel off for example, goosed bearings or the like.
Pre-warned is pre-armed :)
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i had no issues, get the bike supported under the engine with front wheel free, pop wheel out, might want to losen the cap bolts for the mechanics, so undo top yoke bolts first, then slacken off cap bolts then slacken off each bottom yoke bolt and don't let fork drop, maybe nip up cap bolts again...
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i had no issues, get the bike supported under the engine with front wheel free, pop wheel out, might want to losen the cap bolts for the mechanics, so undo top yoke bolts first, then slacken off cap bolts then slacken off each bottom yoke bolt and don't let fork drop, maybe nip up cap bolts again...
Good advice anutz apart from "might want to losen the cap bolts for the mechanics" is this not what I'm paying them to do the job for? :moon :rollin
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i had no issues, get the bike supported under the engine with front wheel free, pop wheel out, might want to losen the cap bolts for the mechanics, so undo top yoke bolts first, then slacken off cap bolts then slacken off each bottom yoke bolt and don't let fork drop, maybe nip up cap bolts again...
Good advice anutz apart from "might want to losen the cap bolts for the mechanics" is this not what I'm paying them to do the job for? :moon :rollin
yeah but when its in the forks its safely held strongly so if its a bugger to release the cap you know its held properly in forks and not potentially damaged by an over tightened vice........might be just me worrying about nothing but thats what i spend a lot of time doing....
its keeps me busy.....now i am worried... :lol
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yeah but when its in the forks its safely held strongly so if its a bugger to release the cap you know its held properly in forks and not potentially damaged by an over tightened vice........might be just me worrying about nothing but thats what i spend a lot of time doing....
its keeps me busy.....now i am worried... :lol
They'll be fine I'm sure, just imagine, hand in forks, they don't have the tools or the knowledge :eek , I go back and I get them, they've been damaged or focced, guess who's in trouble? Not me matey as i only took them off, I've done my job, I'm sure they can do theirs :)
And yes, you do worry a bit too much mate :rolleyes
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has anyone came across any problems once they've taken the front wheel off for example, goosed bearings or the like.
Pre-warned is pre-armed :)
Watch our for the speedo sensor when removing/replacing the wheel. Rather than confuse things with left/right, it's on the opposite side to the the axle bolt. It is easy to snap the tabs on it, so try to hold it in place until the wheel is clear of the fork and you can pull it out safely. Alternatively, I ran a string of small zip ties around holes in the brake disc and over the speedo sensor, so it was held in place. This does mean you have to leave the wheel in place rather than away from the bike, but it worked for me.
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but it's also important that both sides are equal.
To achieve this I built this thing from scrap:
(http://i58.tinypic.com/2zroqj7.jpg)
But you can also buy such a tool for a lot of money:
https://www.louis.de/en/artikel/fork-oil-level-gauge-60-ml/10003232?list=40836071 (https://www.louis.de/en/artikel/fork-oil-level-gauge-60-ml/10003232?list=40836071)
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has anyone came across any problems once they've taken the front wheel off for example, goosed bearings or the like.
Pre-warned is pre-armed :)
Watch our for the speedo sensor when removing/replacing the wheel. Rather than confuse things with left/right, it's on the opposite side to the the axle bolt. It is easy to snap the tabs on it, so try to hold it in place until the wheel is clear of the fork and you can pull it out safely. Alternatively, I ran a string of small zip ties around holes in the brake disc and over the speedo sensor, so it was held in place. This does mean you have to leave the wheel in place rather than away from the bike, but it worked for me.
Cheers Jaime, can't figure out your point of
"This does mean you have to leave the wheel in place rather than away from the bike"
Don't I need to take the wheel away as I'm taking off the forks?
I'd rather take everything off tbh, so will need to be careful when taking the wheel sensor out, good point though :)
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Well I did the removal today, ready to use the cage for the week while they're in getting the seals and new oil done :)
All was good with no problems, tied up the calipers and the speed sensor.
Here's some pics showing before & after clean up :)