old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Val on 06 June 2015, 01:57:23 am
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Hi All,
My service manual and Yamaha part finder http://parts.yamaha-motor.co.uk/ypec_b2c/ (http://parts.yamaha-motor.co.uk/ypec_b2c/)
say the front sprocket for my 2003 5RT4 model is: 4TV-17460-00
Fowlers part finder says different number?
3HE-17460-00 (https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4181557/fzs600-fazer-5rt4-2003-070-a/transmission)
Any idea which one I should buy?
thank you
cheers
Val
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Depends whether you are ordering from Yamaha dealer or Fowlers I suppose? :lol
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I'd get one of these; http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer_sp/02-03/picture/sprocket_front_-_jt/ (http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer_sp/02-03/picture/sprocket_front_-_jt/) and don't forget to buy a tab washer too!
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I have a FZS 2001 and got this - only problem i had was bending the tab over, but then thats just me...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-YAMAHA-FZS600-FAZER-FRONT-SPROCKET-NUT-AND-WASHER-KIT-/141276105948 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-YAMAHA-FZS600-FAZER-FRONT-SPROCKET-NUT-AND-WASHER-KIT-/141276105948)
You will need to double check it suits yours
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Same difference.
Companies can make up any part number they want, to suit them.
https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/product/YAMAHA/4TV174600000/SPROCKET,%20DRIVE&uid=0 (https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/product/YAMAHA/4TV174600000/SPROCKET,%20DRIVE&uid=0)
If you're just buying a sprocket though i'd be inclined to not get mugged off and try a Renthal one or similar.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xyamaha+fzs600+front+sprocket.TRS0&_nkw=yamaha+fzs600+front+sprocket&_sacat=0 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xyamaha+fzs600+front+sprocket.TRS0&_nkw=yamaha+fzs600+front+sprocket&_sacat=0)
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While on the same subject....
Do you think mines is ok?
Was doing a spot of cleaning as weather is rubbish as usual in Glasgow, not sure if this has been upgraded or not?
Cheers.
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It is not upgraded.
I mounted the new nut last month:
old:
(http://i62.tinypic.com/24b84ue.jpg)
new:
(http://i59.tinypic.com/ayr2me.jpg)
comparison:
(http://i60.tinypic.com/ic0lso.jpg)
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It's quite simple, if you can see any threads at all it's the old 9mm nut.
You can see in the photo the new 12mm nut totally covers all of the threads and is flush with the end of the shaft.
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Same difference.
Companies can make up any part number they want, to suit them.
[url]https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/product/YAMAHA/4TV174600000/SPROCKET,%20DRIVE&uid=0[/url] ([url]https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/product/YAMAHA/4TV174600000/SPROCKET,%20DRIVE&uid=0[/url])
If you're just buying a sprocket though i'd be inclined to not get mugged off and try a Renthal one or similar.
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xyamaha+fzs600+front+sprocket.TRS0&_nkw=yamaha+fzs600+front+sprocket&_sacat=0[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xyamaha+fzs600+front+sprocket.TRS0&_nkw=yamaha+fzs600+front+sprocket&_sacat=0[/url])
That what I was thinking initially too, however OEM front sprocket has 8 holes and a big red rubber thingy attached which any of aftermarket ones lack. Look at riedrider photo and you will see it.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Yamaha-ANTRIEBSKETTENRAD-fuer-YZF-600R-4TV-17460-00-SV83-/00/s/MTM3OVgxNjAw/z/utMAAMXQs6FRL1Sl/$T2eC16NHJGQE9noMZGOiBRL1Slmn9g~~60_35.JPG)
I have digged out in forums and although nobody so far is sure why is that (given the fact that is the only sprocket in the world that has such feature) some guys suggested that may something to do with noise and calming the chain movement. I have looked at pictures of some old used ones and you can see clearly the marks from the chain there too.
Anyhow long story short the price difference for the front one is not so huge as for the rear one, OEM one is £24 any aftermarket is around £10.
Hence I decided to go for OEM front and Renthal rear :-)
Probably will get the one 4TV-17460-00 recomended in Yamaha online parts finder and will buy it from Fowlers, Fowlers say its for YZF600R however I tend to beleive Yamaha and my service manual LOL
[url=https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5541979/yzf600r-2001-4tvb-europe-deep-purplish-blue-metallic-c/transmission]https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5541979/yzf600r-2001-4tvb-europe-deep-purplish-blue-metallic-c/transmission (https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5541979/yzf600r-2001-4tvb-europe-deep-purplish-blue-metallic-c/transmission)[/url]
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Same difference.
Companies can make up any part number they want, to suit them.
[url]https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/product/YAMAHA/4TV174600000/SPROCKET,%20DRIVE&uid=0[/url] ([url]https://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/product/YAMAHA/4TV174600000/SPROCKET,%20DRIVE&uid=0[/url])
If you're just buying a sprocket though i'd be inclined to not get mugged off and try a Renthal one or similar.
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xyamaha+fzs600+front+sprocket.TRS0&_nkw=yamaha+fzs600+front+sprocket&_sacat=0[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xyamaha+fzs600+front+sprocket.TRS0&_nkw=yamaha+fzs600+front+sprocket&_sacat=0[/url])
That what I was thinking initially too, however OEM front sprocket has a big red rubber thingy which any of aftermarket ones lack.
I have digged out in forums and although nobody so far is sure why is that (given the fact that is the only sprocket in the world that has such feature) some guys suggested that may something to do with noise and calming the chain movement. I have looked at pictures of some old used ones and you can see clearly the marks from the chain there too.
Anyhow long story short the price difference for the fron tone is not so huge as for the rear one, OEM one is £24 any aftermarket is around £10.
Hence I decided to go for OEM front and Renthal rear :-)
Are you not changing the chain?
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Hi All,
My service manual and Yamaha part finder [url]http://parts.yamaha-motor.co.uk/ypec_b2c/[/url] ([url]http://parts.yamaha-motor.co.uk/ypec_b2c/[/url])
say the front sprocket for my 2003 5RT4 model is: 4TV-17460-00
Fowlers part finder says different number?
3HE-17460-00 ([url]https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4181557/fzs600-fazer-5rt4-2003-070-a/transmission[/url])
Any idea which one I should buy?
thank you
cheers
Val
Just a thought, is one original part number and the other is the 'upgraded' part number?
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yes I am chaning the chain too, that is way looking for sprokets and the upgraded 12mm nut :)
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Hi All,
My service manual and Yamaha part finder [url]http://parts.yamaha-motor.co.uk/ypec_b2c/[/url] ([url]http://parts.yamaha-motor.co.uk/ypec_b2c/[/url])
say the front sprocket for my 2003 5RT4 model is: 4TV-17460-00
Fowlers part finder says different number?
3HE-17460-00 ([url]https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4181557/fzs600-fazer-5rt4-2003-070-a/transmission[/url])
Any idea which one I should buy?
thank you
cheers
Val
Just a thought, is one original part number and the other is the 'upgraded' part number?
Not likely given the fact that on BOTH places where they sell 4TV-17460-00 AND 3HE-17460-00 (https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4181557/fzs600-fazer-5rt4-2003-070-a/transmission) Fowlers have the old 9mm nut as their part number for sale, LOL: 90179-18020
The new one 12mm is 90179-18006 which I will buy from ebay as a kit with the washer:
[url=http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-YAMAHA-FZS600-FAZER-FRONT-SPROCKET-NUT-AND-WASHER-KIT-/141276105948]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-YAMAHA-FZS600-FAZER-FRONT-SPROCKET-NUT-AND-WASHER-KIT-/141276105948 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-YAMAHA-FZS600-FAZER-FRONT-SPROCKET-NUT-AND-WASHER-KIT-/141276105948)[/url]
I even will not bother to speak with Fowlers parts department, if you can't fix your parts referal system what is the point to speak with somebody over the phone to hear him saying "you will be fine trust me" LOL
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Normal to just buy a DID X ring sprocket and chain kit, makes life much simpler.
They're decent, and tried and tested. :thumbup
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+did+x+ring.TRS0&_nkw=fzs+600+did+x+ring&_sacat=0 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+did+x+ring.TRS0&_nkw=fzs+600+did+x+ring&_sacat=0)
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I even will not bother to speak with Fowlers parts department, if you can't fix your parts referal system what is the point to speak with somebody over the phone to hear him saying "you will be fine trust me" LOL
Yeah, some parts people are a pain!
There's two threads at the moment about this front sprocket, reading between the two, I'll need to be looking into doing the front, as well as a chain, may as well do the back one too. Onto the bank manager now :eek
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Normal to just buy a DID X ring sprocket and chain kit, makes life much simpler.
They're decent, and tried and tested. :thumbup
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+did+x+ring.TRS0&_nkw=fzs+600+did+x+ring&_sacat=0[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+did+x+ring.TRS0&_nkw=fzs+600+did+x+ring&_sacat=0[/url])
some difference in prices there, guess the expensive ones include the two sprockets as well, need to investigate, any recommendations from anyone?
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Normal to just buy a DID X ring sprocket and chain kit, makes life much simpler.
They're decent, and tried and tested. :thumbup
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+did+x+ring.TRS0&_nkw=fzs+600+did+x+ring&_sacat=0[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+did+x+ring.TRS0&_nkw=fzs+600+did+x+ring&_sacat=0[/url])
some difference in prices there, guess the expensive ones include the two sprockets as well, need to investigate, any recommendations from anyone?
D.I.D and Tsubaki are the best chains IMO opinion, given the fact I have decided to assemble custom kit with OEM rubber thingy front sprocket, I have decided to go for this chain:
[url=http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/buy/Tsubaki-Tsubaki-Alpha-X-Ring-Gold-Drive-Chain---530---110-links/530APX-110.953#eq1]http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/buy/Tsubaki-Tsubaki-Alpha-X-Ring-Gold-Drive-Chain---530---110-links/530APX-110.953#eq1 (http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/buy/Tsubaki-Tsubaki-Alpha-X-Ring-Gold-Drive-Chain---530---110-links/530APX-110.953#eq1)[/url]
Or even I can safe some money and get this O-ring Tsubaki:
http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/buy/Tsubaki-Tsubaki-Omega-O-Ring-Drive-Chain---530---110-links/530MG-110.953#eq1 (http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/buy/Tsubaki-Tsubaki-Omega-O-Ring-Drive-Chain---530---110-links/530MG-110.953#eq1)
The first one is £84 the second is £61 and I am not convinced yet which one I will get. At the end of the day the chain life mostly depends how you maintain it, so not 100% convinced I need to splash say £140 for some super duper extra heavy duty extreme gold whatnot XXYZ chain that will do the same job and last the same as well maintained but high qulaity Tsubaki O-rin for £60.
I have the feeling we may fall victims of marketing bollocks from chain manufacturers trying to get some money from us :lol hope not :rolleyes
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Normal to just buy a DID X ring sprocket and chain kit, makes life much simpler.
They're decent, and tried and tested. :thumbup
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+did+x+ring.TRS0&_nkw=fzs+600+did+x+ring&_sacat=0[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+did+x+ring.TRS0&_nkw=fzs+600+did+x+ring&_sacat=0[/url])
some difference in prices there, guess the expensive ones include the two sprockets as well, need to investigate, any recommendations from anyone?
Gold ones are more expensive, and look lovely when new, but if you ride in all weathers like me, all year round, then it soon gets covered in shit, unless you feel the urge to clean it all the time which makes no sense.
Some are just chains, rather than kits, that's why the prices vary.
This will do you.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS600-FAZER-98-03-DID-X-RING-CHAIN-SPROCKET-KIT-/400676831619?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d4a334183 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS600-FAZER-98-03-DID-X-RING-CHAIN-SPROCKET-KIT-/400676831619?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d4a334183)
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Normal to just buy a DID X ring sprocket and chain kit, makes life much simpler.
They're decent, and tried and tested. :thumbup
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+did+x+ring.TRS0&_nkw=fzs+600+did+x+ring&_sacat=0[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+did+x+ring.TRS0&_nkw=fzs+600+did+x+ring&_sacat=0[/url])
some difference in prices there, guess the expensive ones include the two sprockets as well, need to investigate, any recommendations from anyone?
D.I.D and Tsubaki are the best chains IMO opinion, given the fact I have decided to assemble custom kit with OEM rubber thingy front sprocket, I have decided to go for this chain:
[url=http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/buy/Tsubaki-Tsubaki-Alpha-X-Ring-Gold-Drive-Chain---530---110-links/530APX-110.953#eq1]http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/buy/Tsubaki-Tsubaki-Alpha-X-Ring-Gold-Drive-Chain---530---110-links/530APX-110.953#eq1 ([url]http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/buy/Tsubaki-Tsubaki-Alpha-X-Ring-Gold-Drive-Chain---530---110-links/530APX-110.953#eq1[/url])[/url]
Or even I can safe some money and get this O-ring Tsubaki:
[url]http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/buy/Tsubaki-Tsubaki-Omega-O-Ring-Drive-Chain---530---110-links/530MG-110.953#eq1[/url] ([url]http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/buy/Tsubaki-Tsubaki-Omega-O-Ring-Drive-Chain---530---110-links/530MG-110.953#eq1[/url])
The first one is £84 the second is £61 and I am not convinced yet which one I will get. At the end of the day the chain life mostly depends how you maintain it, so not 100% convinced I need to splash say £140 for some super duper extra heavy duty extreme gold whatnot XXYZ chain that will do the same job and last the same as well maintained but high qulaity Tsubaki O-rin for £60.
I have the feeling we may fall victims of marketing bollocks from chain manufacturers trying to get some money from us :lol hope not :rolleyes
You don't need extra heavy duty, it's been talked about before.
Nobody has really cared about the rubber thing either, and i've not heard anyone complain that it's not there or being missed.
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Yeah it's all food for thought and down to personal preference :)
What's the difference in front and rear sprocket numbers? I see some kits have 15 & 48, just wondering if it's worth going for different sizes and what it'd do?
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Yeah it's all food for thought and down to personal preference :)
What's the difference in front and rear sprocket numbers? I see some kits have 15 & 48, just wondering if it's worth going for different sizes and what it'd do?
Good question play with this and see the difference: http://www.gearingcommander.com/ (http://www.gearingcommander.com/)
Some people do 1-2 tooth more on front and 1-2 tooth less rear. That basically will make the RPMs lower. The gear commander will give you the difference and few nice graphs.
Here is my understanding how the secondary transmission ratio and acceleration works.
If I increase my secondary transmission ratio say from stock 15/48 I go for 13/53 sprockets, the bike will have more acceleration and pulling force. Not torque. Torque always stays the same for same RPMs not affected by ratio. Obviously you can't change the engine HP either. But you can change the way you transmit the torque to the wheel.
Say with the stock 15/48 in second gear doing the same RPM say 4600 I will have 10 fts2(foot per second squared) acceleration going with 31 mph and the pulling force will be 210 lbf.
With the custom 13/53 in second gear doing the same RPM say 4600 I will have 14 fts2(foot per second squared) acceleration going with 25 mph and the pulling force will be 270 lbf.
Most people do the opposite which means less acceleration more speed with lower RPMs. Means the highway ride will be more relaxed and according to some guys Fazer has some vibration around exactly 70mph with standard transmission. Making say 17/47 will make RPMs lower on 70mph and will make the vibration disappear. But IMO the slow town ride will be not so comfty.
There is one more important thing - ratio also affects chain wear. Look at gear commander wear table. Standard ratio 15/48 means front sprocket will do 3 turns before the same chain link hits again same tooth, rear 24 turns before same tooth hits same link or Both F&R each 24 turns. If you do 17/47 that changes to 17 and 47 turns and for Both F&R ecah 799 turns!
This will make the wear less with some custom settings.
Here is standard ratio speed gear shift chart:
(http://i58.tinypic.com/whxmva.jpg)
You calculate ratio by dividing the sprocket tooths, so standard is 48/15=3.2, top speed 143mph on 11500 RPM.
If you do higher ratio say 53/13=4.08 here is the graph you basically get more aggresive ride with a lot of acceleration but shorter gear and the max speed on 6th will be lower on the graph it says top speed 112mph. That is what motogymkhana guys do. They get massive acceleration with massive rear sprockets, probably massive fun too :lol
(http://i60.tinypic.com/whml2x.jpg)
And here is more reasonable for relaxed highway ride lower ratio for 17/47=2.76, you have longer gears and higher top speed on 6th 165mph on 11500. I doubt you can do that speed, nevertheless the gears are longer with higher speeds, see on 1st you can do 62mph on 11500. More people will short shift means you do not wait to use full gear capablities till 115000 RPMs you shift earlier.
(http://i60.tinypic.com/23w5yc6.jpg)
Here is performance analyser for accelerations, pulling force and speeds depending on your final drive transmission ratio:
http://motorcycleperformanceanalyzer.com/yamaha/fzs-600-fazer-1998/ (http://motorcycleperformanceanalyzer.com/yamaha/fzs-600-fazer-1998/)
More problems what to choose I guess LOL
All the thanks go to J_Dub for providing the link to Wemoto site where they have all JT sprockets range with custom tooths count too :-)
I'd get one of these; [url=http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer_sp/02-03/picture/sprocket_front_-_jt/]http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer_sp/02-03/picture/sprocket_front_-_jt/ (http://"[url]http://motorcycleperformanceanalyzer.com/yamaha/fzs-600-fazer-1998/[/url]") and don't forget to buy a tab washer too!
[/url]
I may go with 1 tooth less on the rear for now. Which is miniscule change for ratio, but about 7 times better wear.
Forget about the initial parts number question, I am completely undecided now what sprockets I should choose now :lol (http://"http://motorcycleperformanceanalyzer.com/yamaha/fzs-600-fazer-1998/")
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So, if i read this correctly, put into laymen terms....
Fewer front/more rear = faster acceleration
More front/fewer rear = slower acceleration
But, torque and bhp can't change but I'll see a difference on the rev counter?
Personally, I'm not interested in better graphs on a dyno reading or anything, it's not a sports bike, I just want to make it comfy for commuting and weekend runs with mates etc.
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So, if i read this correctly, put into laymen terms....
Fewer front/more rear = faster acceleration
More front/fewer rear = slower acceleration
But, torque and bhp can't change but I'll see a difference on the rev counter?
Personally, I'm not interested in better graphs on a dyno reading or anything, it's not a sports bike, I just want to make it comfy for commuting and weekend runs with mates etc.
There is no ideal gear ratio, ratio is always tradeoff between comfty highway OR comfty slow speed commuting. I guess staying with standard ratio 15/48 is probably the best compromise. Unless you do extensive highway riding then lower ratio like 17/47 may help. High extreme ratio like 13/53 is for moto gymkhana wannabes :-)
I may be wrong I am laymen too just too much nerd I guess LOL
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I guess staying with standard ratio 15/48 is probably the best compromise. Unless you do extensive highway riding then lower ratio like 17/47 may help. High extreme ratio like 13/53 is for moto gymkhana wannabes :-)
I'm happy just tootling away, I like the odd blast but nothing gp style :angel :rolleyes
I may be wrong I am laymen too just too much nerd I guess LOL
But your nerdiness will help others :lol
You said earlier about a lower rear sprocket by 1, would you also increase the front by 1 or leave that at 15?
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The correct sprocket for the FZS600 is the 4TV one (4TV is Thundercat model code from which the FZS600 engine is derived and shares many gearbox parts), the 3HE one is for the FZR600.
It probably will fit as JT Sprockets list the same sprocket for both bike, but there must be some difference for Yamaha have to different part numbers on them.
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I guess staying with standard ratio 15/48 is probably the best compromise. Unless you do extensive highway riding then lower ratio like 17/47 may help. High extreme ratio like 13/53 is for moto gymkhana wannabes :-)
I'm happy just tootling away, I like the odd blast but nothing gp style :angel :rolleyes
I may be wrong I am laymen too just too much nerd I guess LOL
But your nerdiness will help others :lol
You said earlier about a lower rear sprocket by 1, would you also increase the front by 1 or leave that at 15?
Why not 16/47 seems good combination in fact here is nice article (http://www.bikesandtravels.com/biker.aspx?ride=379) from a guy the has chosen exactly that combo.
According to gear commander this will give you 8% decrease in RPMs and about 10 mph more top speed.
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my god....this stuff is complex....back to school i think....intresting however :lol
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Why not 16/47 seems good combination in fact here is nice article ([url]http://www.bikesandtravels.com/biker.aspx?ride=379[/url]) from a guy the has chosen exactly that combo.
According to gear commander this will give you 8% decrease in RPMs and about 10 mph more top speed.
That looks just the ticket, although I could do with increasing my top speed to 70 :eek I'm not that bothered about that :lol
He did say he should of went for 2+ on the front, guessing that would mean 2- on the rear. But he also says he bought two different makes of sprockets, think I'll just look for complete set, now question is....fixed chain or rivet? Swing arm off or in situ? :wall
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my god....this stuff is complex....back to school i think....intresting however :lol
:book :lol
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now question is....fixed chain or rivet? Swing arm off or in situ?
I rivetted mine today:
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,6412.4525.html (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,6412.4525.html)
But if the complete set of chain an sprockets is worn it would make sense to put the swingarm off and check the bearings and regrease them. For rivetting you need a good tool. I would not use the two hammer method....
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now question is....fixed chain or rivet? Swing arm off or in situ?
I rivetted mine today:
[url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,6412.4525.html[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,6412.4525.html[/url])
Looks good riedrider :)
But if the complete set of chain an sprockets is worn it would make sense to put the swingarm off and check the bearings and regrease them. For rivetting you need a good tool. I would not use the two hammer method....
Nope, I wouldn't use the two hammer method, it's not a push bike after all.
Don't think my sprockets are worn, I'm thinking I'll get away with it till winter then I can strip the whole lot off and do it when bike is off the road anyway.
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I guess staying with standard ratio 15/48 is probably the best compromise. Unless you do extensive highway riding then lower ratio like 17/47 may help. High extreme ratio like 13/53 is for moto gymkhana wannabes :-)
I'm happy just tootling away, I like the odd blast but nothing gp style :angel :rolleyes
I may be wrong I am laymen too just too much nerd I guess LOL
But your nerdiness will help others :lol
You said earlier about a lower rear sprocket by 1, would you also increase the front by 1 or leave that at 15?
Why not 16/47 seems good combination in fact here is nice article ([url]http://www.bikesandtravels.com/biker.aspx?ride=379[/url]) from a guy the has chosen exactly that combo.
According to gear commander this will give you 8% decrease in RPMs and about 10 mph more top speed.
Do you not think that the Japanese tried every combination, but eventually came up with 15/48 as the best result for this bike?
I dunno what your bike is like, but mine is pretty quick off the mark when asked, and i've had 135mph with a passenger on board, with more available.
It really doesn't need tinkering with, and the speed limit is 70mph, apparently, so just ride and enjoy, it is what it is.
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Do you not think that the Japanese tried every combination, but eventually came up with 15/48 as the best result for this bike?
Nah, as it's been said on other threads, it was slung together from other parts they had lying about, bit off this, bit off that, hence we are now all looking at different ways to 'help' :lol
Funny enough, on other issues regarding certain things, people mention, improvements and what that certain part came from, ie divvy front fender, r6 engine/gearing, r1 brakes etc
I dunno what your bike is like, but mine is pretty quick off the mark when asked, and i've had 135mph with a passenger on board, with more available.
My bike is fast as it's red and doesn't need any more speed but it's nice to know what can be done and certainly makes for interesting reading :book
It really doesn't need tinkering with, and the speed limit is 70mph, apparently, so just ride and enjoy, it is what it is.
That's fair enough, as I'm sure everyone rides like an :angel :lol
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Do you not think that the Japanese tried every combination, but eventually came up with 15/48 as the best result for this bike?
Nah, as it's been said on other threads, it was slung together from other parts they had lying about, bit off this, bit off that, hence we are now all looking at different ways to 'help' :lol
Funny enough, on other issues regarding certain things, people mention, improvements and what that certain part came from, ie divvy front fender, r6 engine/gearing, r1 brakes etc
I dunno what your bike is like, but mine is pretty quick off the mark when asked, and i've had 135mph with a passenger on board, with more available.
My bike is fast as it's red and doesn't need any more speed but it's nice to know what can be done and certainly makes for interesting reading :)
It really doesn't need tinkering with, and the speed limit is 70mph, apparently, so just ride and enjoy, it is what it is.
That's fair enough, as I'm sure everyone rides like an :angel :lol
Do you not see my point though, if you want a quicker FZS600, buy an FZS1000 and save yourself a lot of kerfuffle. :look
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Yeah I totally see your point, but hopefully you see there are people who also like to know exactly how things work and like to get dirty with the workings.
If we all just went out and bought other things just because we could, this forum probably wouldn't exist :(
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It all stems back to the days when you bought your first 50cc then tried to turn it into a Z1000 :lol
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It all stems back to the days when you bought your first 50cc then tried to turn it into a Z1000 :lol
What do you mean tried? I'm sure I done that! :lol
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Why not 16/47 seems good combination in fact here is nice article ([url]http://www.bikesandtravels.com/biker.aspx?ride=379[/url]) from a guy the has chosen exactly that combo.
According to gear commander this will give you 8% decrease in RPMs and about 10 mph more top speed.
That looks just the ticket, although I could do with increasing my top speed to 70 :eek I'm not that bothered about that :lol
He did say he should of went for 2+ on the front, guessing that would mean 2- on the rear. But he also says he bought two different makes of sprockets, think I'll just look for complete set, now question is....fixed chain or rivet? Swing arm off or in situ? :wall
riedrider has very sound advice to get off the swingarm and grease the bearings which I will follow. Also removing the swingarm means you can just get the chain off without splitting it, and you do not need to use a grinder to get the heads of the pins off before you split the old chain. The old chain in my case is the original OEM with hard-head pins which will make the split a major pain and I do not have a grinder too.
About fixed or rivet, actually most good chains that I found are sold split. The question here is what type are the master rivet connector pins.
There are two types: soft-head pins which are hollow and much more easier to rivet and the good rivet tools for that are about £30 like JT Pro Chain Tool Kit (http://www.mandp.co.uk/productinfo/674443/Chains-and-Sprockets/Chain-Tools/JT/Pro-Chain-Tool-Kit), and hard-head pins need expensive Whale tool.
For example I am looking for Tsubaki chains because the price matches the cheapest low strength chains and the quality and strength matches expensive ones like D.I.D.
I found Tsubaki chain installation videos (http://www.tsubaki-rider.com/en/installation2) very helpful.
Tsubaki Alpha XRG X-ring 530 110 is £83 soft-head pin connector rivet link hollow:
http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/buy/Tsubaki-Tsubaki-Alpha-X-Ring-Gold-Drive-Chain---530---110-links/530APX-110.953#eq1 (http://www.bandcexpress.co.uk/buy/Tsubaki-Tsubaki-Alpha-X-Ring-Gold-Drive-Chain---530---110-links/530APX-110.953#eq1)
Tsubaki Omega O-ring 530 110 is £61 hard-head pin connector master rivet link needs whale tool!
Hence I decided to go for Alpha XRG because I am lazy and want to do the things easier :lol
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Geez Val, that's confused me even more now :lol