old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: wildchild74 on 15 February 2015, 10:00:44 pm
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Hi folks got a bit of a problem on my 98 fazer 600 with 40000 miles on it....its developed a misfire when warm over last couple of weeks but bear in mind I can only get out on it on weekend for an hour or two and its kept outside under cover....now when I start it on full chock it struggles abit but starts and the first time it happened it sounded like a diesel so I touched the downpipes and no2 was warm so I took caps off n refitted them and it ran fine then last week went out on it Friday and Saturday only slight misfire at low revs ok over 3.5k but went out Sunday it was a right bag of nails and touched pipes again and no3 was warm so I put new plugs in today and it really struggled to start but when I did it was really smooth till it warmed up then slightly missing again but I had to out so couldn't do anymore.... Any suggestions thanks
Gaz
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Bump anyone
Gaz
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give carbs a clean and take it for a real ride, give it some beans
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I drained down the carbs and put full bottle of redex in a couple of litres of fuel and run it again then again after changing plugs then just been out to test the battery with a multimeter n thats ok n when it was chugging away if felt the pipe and i could hold no4 but others were red hot couldnt touch them im wondering now coilpacks and leads???
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is it sparking ok?
just flushing carbs may not fix the problem, but it may well just need to see the redline.
my fzs was sat up for a few weeks recently and only ran on 2 cylinders it needed a bit of throttle to sort it and it has been fine ever since.
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Dont know if it means anything but there is a slight backfire/popping noise but it has got a race can on
Gaz
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[size=19px !important]Profi Fuel Max - Fuel system & carburetor cleaner[/size][size=21px !important][/size]Great product. Purchased for my Yamaha FZS 600 Fazer (1999). It had been running very roughly (low revs, inconsistent tickover, low speed running, hesitation etc) since purchase in the spring of 2014. Did all the usual stuff - new plugs, checked plug caps,coils etc (all within spec) even purchased new TPS (ouch!) but problem remained. It was during a conversation with a mechanic that I found out that regular unleaded petrol had up to 10% Ethanol in it. Apparently it goes off after a month and leaves a residue particularly in the pilot jets (hence the poor low speed running). The bike was due to go into the garage for a carb cleaning session (about 2 hours labour ~£100). Read about Profi fuel so decided to give it a try. Took a third of the can (90mls) to the garage and filled up with Shell Vmax (less ethanol content) and filled the tank. Pleasantly surprised - running really well after 20 miles; by 50 miles engine is as sweet as a nut! Perfect low speed running, no hesitation and constant tickover. This product also stops the water content in the fuel rusting the tank during winter storage. If you are laying up your bike for the winter its probably better to drain the tank and run the carbs dry and fill up with fresh fuel next Spring. In summary - if you are experiencing poor running give this product a try first, rather than last - you could save a great deal of cash on unnecessary parts and labour costs.[/size][size=21px !important][/color]
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Wait until it's pitch black & not pissing with rain.
Have some paience & start up the bike and look at the top of the leads where they go into the plugs........look for very small, arcing lightning bolts, take a while to sit and look or even ask someone else to look from the other side at the same time.
If you've been pulling plugs on and off then id also make sure that the leads and caps are screwed into each other and not just squashed up making a crap contact.
If you see any arcing then snip off the ends of the leads where the arcing is and screwback to the caps, the arcing might occur at the same time as a subtle change in the revs.
Worth a check anyway.
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Take the plug caps off the plugs, pull off the plug caps. Cut a half inch off the ends of the leads, now with the boots rolled back screw the leads back on the cap. Fill the top of the plug cap around the lead with vaseline, push the boots back on. Put the caps back on the plugs As long as there is no corrosion in the cap that should sort it.
Did it to mine a few years ago, never had a problem since.
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[size=19px !important]Profi Fuel Max - Fuel system & carburetor cleaner[/size][size=21px !important][/size]Great product. Purchased for my Yamaha FZS 600 Fazer (1999). It had been running very roughly (low revs, inconsistent tickover, low speed running, hesitation etc) since purchase in the spring of 2014. Did all the usual stuff - new plugs, checked plug caps,coils etc (all within spec) even purchased new TPS (ouch!) but problem remained. It was during a conversation with a mechanic that I found out that regular unleaded petrol had up to 10% Ethanol in it. Apparently it goes off after a month and leaves a residue particularly in the pilot jets (hence the poor low speed running). The bike was due to go into the garage for a carb cleaning session (about 2 hours labour ~£100). Read about Profi fuel so decided to give it a try. Took a third of the can (90mls) to the garage and filled up with Shell Vmax (less ethanol content) and filled the tank. Pleasantly surprised - running really well after 20 miles; by 50 miles engine is as sweet as a nut! Perfect low speed running, no hesitation and constant tickover. This product also stops the water content in the fuel rusting the tank during winter storage. If you are laying up your bike for the winter its probably better to drain the tank and run the carbs dry and fill up with fresh fuel next Spring.
In summary - if you are experiencing poor running give this product a try first, rather than last - you could save a great deal of cash on unnecessary parts and labour costs.[/size][size=21px !important][/color]
Hi m8 thanks for that but the only fuel I use is esso premium as it apparently got no ethanol so no moisture build up as I don't use it everyday but I will look into that stuff ta m8
Gaz
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Does anyone know where i can get this stuff from uk although i do wanna give it a try. But although im no expert or mechanic but i dont think its fuel more electrical as every time it misses its a different cylinder each time
Gaz
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Looking at these plug cap arnt oem as these are straight not 45° bends so the lead bit coming out of the cap is always bent so im hoping that is the problem and going to bike shop tomorrow and getting 1.5 metres of lead and 4 new caps hopefully 45° bends
Gaz
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Looking at these plug cap arnt oem as these are straight not 45° bends so the lead bit coming out of the cap is always bent so im hoping that is the problem and going to bike shop tomorrow and getting 1.5 metres of lead and 4 new caps hopefully 45° bends
Gaz
If you try what me & unfazed suggest above then it might save you the bother.
Just unscrew the lead from each cap &snip off the ends....i dunno maybe 10-15mm, screw the lead back to the cap & see if it makes a difference. Nothing to lose if it doesnt work but if it does then at least you know.
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Noggy, we can only suggest, if they wish to spend money first???? :)
Considering the fact you cannot remove the leads from the coils I am not sure what he is thinking of doing. :rolleyes
The straight NGK are the usual replacement, but the same issue applies as with the original caps, the leads loosen :eek
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Noggy, we can only suggest, if they wish to spend money first???? :)
Considering the fact you cannot remove the leads from the coils I am not sure what he is thinking of doing. :rolleyes
The straight NGK are the usual replacement, but the same issue applies as with the original caps, the leads loosen :eek
I actually dont know much but i learn every year & i remember having a similar problem & an old wise foccer (red98) suggesting the same.
Right enough it was arcing and i did the trimming the leads & hey presto quite satisfying. :)
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Lol.....well iam old so your half right noggy :lol.......yes, as suggested check the plug caps/leads in the dark, look out for sparks jumping across from plug caps/leads to engine , leads can go hard and brittle with age and are sealed to the coils so trimming the ends to get a good connection is the best solution and if wont cost you anything....a good place to start ;)
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Looking at these plug cap arnt oem as these are straight not 45° bends so the lead bit coming out of the cap is always bent so im hoping that is the problem and going to bike shop tomorrow and getting 1.5 metres of lead and 4 new caps hopefully 45° bends
Gaz
If you try what me & unfazed suggest above then it might save you the bother.
Just unscrew the lead from each cap &snip off the ends....i dunno maybe 10-15mm, screw the lead back to the cap & see if it makes a difference. Nothing to lose if it doesnt work but if it does then at least you know.
Thanks lads i will try that tomorrow... and i just thought they may be cheap replacements and the chap in the bike shop told me that i could put new leads into coils but as i said im no expert or mechanics but i am a quick learner but once again thanks for all your input
Gaz
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Dont know if it means anything but there is a slight backfire/popping noise but it has got a race can on
Gaz
Since the fuel going to cylinder 4 isn't getting burnt in the cylinder it is burning when it meets the hot gases from the other cylinders where the pipes join giving the backfire/popping noises.
Have you tried swapping the spark plug from cylinder 4 to another cylinder to check it's not just a duff plug?
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Hi folks just a little update tried trimming leads...no change so i won oem coils n leads on ebay came today and fitted them.....missing all over the shop so took them of 1 by 1 and screwed leads in to the caps fired it up n no misfire at all took it out for 10 mins and all it does now is when coming down the gears it sounds like theres a slight misfire but to be honest carbs prob need balancing and its still running the additive thru so not worried about at the mo so thanks for all your input lads
Gaz
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It mostly likely that the cap internals are corroded or the carbon resistor in the cap has gone higher resistance.
Out of curiosity and if you have time, remove the old caps and looking into to them, you will see a slot for a screwdriver. Unscrew it and out will fall, the piece you unscrewed, a carbon resistor, a tiny brass washer and a spring. A very high possibility that there is corrosion in there somewhere and if not the resistor is knackered. :eek
I have swapped the resistors with the 5Kohm resistors ones from old NGK spark plugs, (these are wire wound and more reliable) cleaned up the corrosion on the spring and the internal part of the cap, dumped the tiny washer (they break half the time). Requires a bit more pressure to reinstall as the NGK resistor is a little longer than the carbon one. Put them all back together and works fine. :thumbup
Have not heard of a fazer coil pack up yet. :)
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I will try that unfazed wondered what those slots were for cheers bud
Gaz
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I will try that unfazed wondered what those slots were for cheers bud
Gaz
Hi there i done that on the old ngk ones and they were clean but i then tried it on the one on the bike and the risister isnt too bad but one end of the spring was really corroded so i quickly cleaned them up with sandpaper but not had time to start it but will tomorrow.... are the risisters in the ngk one better than oem ones....many thanks
Gaz
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The resistors in the NGK one are wire wound whereas the Yamaha OEM ones are Carbon.
The carbon ones are cheaper to manufacture, but their resistance values can vary by 20%.
The wire wound ones are more accurate, normally within 5%.
The carbon type age badly and the resistance rises as they get older and coupled with corrosion it plays havoc with the spark, causing misfires, poor starting and all sorts of other issues
Be sure to clean the brass piece deep in the cap also. I usually spray the inside of the cap with WD40 before reassembly
If you put back the original caps with the NGK resistors pack the top of the cap with vaseline before replacing the rubber boot, no more water ingress.
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Will deffo try that tomorrow after getting the car remapped in the morning n let you know how it goes cheers buddy
Gaz
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Hi There I have all the issues you've had I changed coils, caps, plugs and air filter. I cleaned the carbs, tried redex, the lot. My 98 fazer (88,000 miles) would be ok for s few days then misfire and you get one or two cold downpipes. After cleaning the carbs myself I noticed that diaphragm rubbers on the top of the carbs where slack, I replaced them from a set I had as a spare and the bike was back to normal. No misfire, perfect again. Hope this maybe of use.
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The resistors in the NGK one are wire wound whereas the Yamaha OEM ones are Carbon.
The carbon ones are cheaper to manufacture, but their resistance values can vary by 20%.
The wire wound ones are more accurate, normally within 5%.
The carbon type age badly and the resistance rises as they get older and coupled with corrosion it plays havoc with the spark, causing misfires, poor starting and all sorts of other issues
Be sure to clean the brass piece deep in the cap also. I usually spray the inside of the cap with WD40 before reassembly
If you put back the original caps with the NGK resistors pack the top of the cap with vaseline before replacing the rubber boot, no more water ingress.
Hi folks next update done all the above inc changing oem resistors for cleaned up ngk ones started it up with a loud pop now i remember i think petrol or somthing was dripping from the joint where the can joins the pipe thats y i turned it off the other day.... anyway as said started sweet as a nut and ran lovely not a chug anywhere went up and down the road sound no chugging so left it to idle n then it started chugg chugg but if i rev it hard theres no chugg....so guys whats the next step b4 stripping the carbs down....really do appreciate your help on this thanks
Gaz
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Did you use the choke when starting it?
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Did you use the choke when starting it?
Yes m8 do you think that could have something to do with it n i may try draining the float bowls next
Gaz
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Sounds like blocked pilot jets.
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Sounds like blocked pilot jets.
Is that strip carbs n clean then
Gaz
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I would think so, I normally use cellulose thinners to clean the jets as it will shift the crap in the jets. If you want to poke something through the jets to clear them or dislodge the crap, use brass wire as it will not damage the jets, since they are also brass, some will cringe as the thought of poking something through the jets, but brass on brass is fine.
If the bike is left on the side stand for a long period then the first carb to be effected by fuel evaporation will be 4 and then 3.
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I would think so, I normally use cellulose thinners to clean the jets as it will shift the crap in the jets. If you want to poke something through the jets to clear them or dislodge the crap, use brass wire as it will not damage the jets, since they are also brass, some will cringe as the thought of poking something through the jets, but brass on brass is fine.
If the bike is left on the side stand for a long period then the first carb to be effected by fuel evaporation will be 4 and then 3.
Yeah that makes sense as it is on side stand all the time and 4 is coolest and 3 a bit warmer 2 n 1 red hot cheers
Gaz
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I would think so, I normally use cellulose thinners to clean the jets as it will shift the crap in the jets. If you want to poke something through the jets to clear them or dislodge the crap, use brass wire as it will not damage the jets, since they are also brass, some will cringe as the thought of poking something through the jets, but brass on brass is fine.
If the bike is left on the side stand for a long period then the first carb to be effected by fuel evaporation will be 4 and then 3.
Hi m8 ive got 5ltr drum of mek cleaner that i use at work now could i use this on the jets and float bowls as long i remove any o rings n stuff like that....what im getting at is would the mek affect the brass many thanks
Gaz
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I have never used it, but it should be fine with brass and as you say keep it away from the rubber seals.
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Right the plan for tonite was drain tank, drain fuel filter till I get new one, and drain down carb bowls but do you think I could budge those drain screws not a chance started to knacker one so I stopped so couldn't carry on with my plan of filling with fresh petrol and half a bottle of STP complete fuel system treatment b4 I start stripping the carbs down....soo is there a special screwdriver for these screws,can I get replacements n I'm sure I've read they shouldn't be too tight as the bowl will crack so do you think these have never been undone and drained thanks
Gaz
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The drain screws are made of soft cheese unfortunately.
Look on AJ Sutton website.
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The drain screws are made of soft cheese unfortunately.
Look on AJ Sutton website.
Cheers m8y will do now
Gaz
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A good fitting flat screwdriver should do the trick :thumbup has a bit more bite. They will loosen with a crack and frighten the crap out of you :D
Anti clockwise of course :lol
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A good fitting flat screwdriver should do the trick :thumbup has a bit more bite. They will loosen with a crack and frighten the crap out of you :D
Anti clockwise of course :lol
Lol cheers for that m8 I just need to find some clear pipe to fit on the nipples to go into petrol can as the bikes in the yard now n if I get petrol all over the floor the missus will kill me as that's where the dog plays/craps lol
Gaz
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Hi guys would anybody have any links to videos to remove carbs at all cheers
Gaz
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Right folks next instalment of the misfire saga.... drained 2 carbs n knackered carb 4 drain screw so couldnt drain it so went inside just to get away from it b4 i lost it...then thought f!@#k it and put in the stp n petrol and took it out gave it a good thrash now the misfire seems to be going but the revs seem to stick on at about 1500rpm resulting in no engine braking... will this go the more i use it plus will the treatment break down the blockage while its sitting in the carbs thanks
Gaz
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have you adjusted the idle down, or did you turn it up to compensate for the poor idle issue you have had?
try turning it down to 1200 and see how it runs... the cleaner may take a few runs to fully shift any crap.
my mechanic told me to use injector cleaner in mine after a lay up, so ive done this the other day as my bike had no been out since last October and it runs fine.
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have you adjusted the idle down, or did you turn it up to compensate for the poor idle issue you have had?
try turning it down to 1200 and see how it runs... the cleaner may take a few runs to fully shift any crap.
my mechanic told me to use injector cleaner in mine after a lay up, so ive done this the other day as my bike had no been out since last October and it runs fine.
Hi m8 unless ive knocked it while f-ing about round that area no not as im aware of n good news is ive drained carbs 3 n 4, primed them n letting them soak now overnite n will fire it up tomorrow n take out for a blast hopefully cheers m8
Gaz
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Hi folks this is getting boring now i know but the saga continues :o... broke my neck friday to finish early so i could get the bike out for a long blast the intention was wolverhampton, bridgnorth,telford n back to wolverhampton but only managed bridgnorth and back but what i did notice was the misfire is apparant up to 3.5k-4k rpm then it howls lovely right upto 10k rpm then loads of popping on the way back down the revs sooo took it to mechanic yesterday n cyl 1 was running 70° lower than the rest n he thinks deffo carb prob so ive brought a set off rmt on here n hopefully swap them over in the week n keep you posted
Gaz
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Hi folks this is getting boring now i know but the saga continues :o ... broke my neck friday to finish early so i could get the bike out for a long blast the intention was wolverhampton, bridgnorth,telford n back to wolverhampton but only managed bridgnorth and back but what i did notice was the misfire is apparant up to 3.5k-4k rpm then it howls lovely right upto 10k rpm then loads of popping on the way back down the revs sooo took it to mechanic yesterday n cyl 1 was running 70° lower than the rest n he thinks deffo carb prob so ive brought a set off rmt on here n hopefully swap them over in the week n keep you posted
Gaz
You're only on Page 2, we're more patient than that, try reading this one. :lol
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,2066.0.html (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,2066.0.html)
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Hi folks this is getting boring now i know but the saga continues :o ... broke my neck friday to finish early so i could get the bike out for a long blast the intention was wolverhampton, bridgnorth,telford n back to wolverhampton but only managed bridgnorth and back but what i did notice was the misfire is apparant up to 3.5k-4k rpm then it howls lovely right upto 10k rpm then loads of popping on the way back down the revs sooo took it to mechanic yesterday n cyl 1 was running 70° lower than the rest n he thinks deffo carb prob so ive brought a set off rmt on here n hopefully swap them over in the week n keep you posted
Gaz
You're only on Page 2, we're more patient than that, try reading this one. :lol
[url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,2066.0.html[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,2066.0.html[/url])
Lol m8 trust me this wont reach 42 pages it will be off to bike heaven way b4 then lmfao
Gaz
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Guys ive taken the carbs off awaiting a set off rmt but while ive got access to it i want to check the cam chain tensioner while i can does anyone the procedure to remove,inspect and lubricate and put back without knackering the chain thanks
Gaz
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If there were no rattles when the bike was running leave it alone :)
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If there were no rattles when the bike was running leave it alone :)
Hi m8 it does rattle a bit but not enough to warrant messing with something that could poss knacker the engine
Gaz
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Highly unlikely the tensioner is a problem, mostly like a wearing chain or valve clearance to big.
Cam Chains like drive chains do not wear uniformly they have loose and tight spots. This causes a light rattle especially on startup and the only know cure is to replace the chain.
What mileage is on the engine?
The tensioner is easy enough to remove if you still want to.
Remove the alternator/Generator cover.
Rotate the the crank anticlockwise until the T mark lines up with where the top and bottom crankcases meet.
Some will say you do not need to do this, but it is the best position to have the chain in when removing the tensioner.
Do not rotate the crank when the tensioner has been removed
Remove the 10mm bolt at the end of the tensioner. There is a ball bearing within the bolt, don't lose it.
Don't lose the copper washer on the bolt
Remove the springs (one is inside the other)
Loosen the two allen bolts and carfully remove the tensioner. There is another ball bearing inside in the tensioner don't lose that either.
If your lucky the gasket will remain intact, if not replace it. It is probably best to replace it anyway.
Lift the ratchet and push back the tensioner.
Oil it up and with the ratchet held off the tensioner push the tensioner in and out of the housing a few times.
Replacment is more or less the reverse order of the removal.
Tensioner pushed back into the housing
Gasket
Tensioner body
Tighten the Allen bolts to 10Nm
Ball bearing
Springs
Push them in to the tensioner (You will hear the ratchet clicking over the ratchet teeth)
Put Ball Bearing into cap Bolt and copper washer on the bolt.
Put it on the tensioner and tighten it to 20Nm
Now rotate the engine slowly two full turns. You will probably here the ratchet taking up a little more slack.
You might as well check the valve clearances as you have the Alternator/Generator cover off if not
Put the Alternator/Generator cover back on and tighten the Allen bolts to 12Nm.
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Highly unlikely the tensioner is a problem, mostly like a wearing chain or valve clearance to big.
Cam Chains like drive chains do not wear uniformly they have loose and tight spots. This causes a light rattle especially on startup and the only know cure is to replace the chain.
What mileage is on the engine?
The tensioner is easy enough to remove if you still want to.
Remove the alternator/Generator cover.
Rotate the the crank anticlockwise until the T mark lines up with where the top and bottom crankcases meet.
Some will say you do not need to do this, but it is the best position to have the chain in when removing the tensioner.
Do not rotate the crank when the tensioner has been removed
Remove the 10mm bolt at the end of the tensioner. There is a ball bearing within the bolt, don't lose it.
Don't lose the copper washer on the bolt
Remove the springs (one is inside the other)
Loosen the two allen bolts and carfully remove the tensioner. There is another ball bearing inside in the tensioner don't lose that either.
If your lucky the gasket will remain intact, if not replace it. It is probably best to replace it anyway.
Lift the ratchet and push back the tensioner.
Oil it up and with the ratchet held off the tensioner push the tensioner in and out of the housing a few times.
Replacment is more or less the reverse order of the removal.
Tensioner pushed back into the housing
Gasket
Tensioner body
Tighten the Allen bolts to 10Nm
Ball bearing
Springs
Push them in to the tensioner (You will hear the ratchet clicking over the ratchet teeth)
Put Ball Bearing into cap Bolt and copper washer on the bolt.
Put it on the tensioner and tighten it to 20Nm
Now rotate the engine slowly two full turns. You will probably here the ratchet taking up a little more slack.
You might as well check the valve clearances as you have the Alternator/Generator cover off if not
Put the Alternator/Generator cover back on and tighten the Allen bolts to 12Nm.
M8 your a life saver thanks for the info... why do i need generator cover off so i can turn engine over by hand?? And does the rocker cover need to be off to check clearances i presume yes the reason i ask this is because the mechanic said it could be down to the valve clearances the misfire but its not hard to start.... thanks again
Gaz
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Only way to turn the engine over easily and match the timing marks is with the cover off.
Taking out the plugs makes it easier too as there would be no compression to cope with.
with care the Cam cover can be removed with out resorting to removing all the bit the manual says to be removed
Seat off, Tank off, bolt in thermostat housing off.
Pull plugs off and back up to the level of the coils
4 End caps off
8 Cam cover bolts off
Tap the cam cover to unstick it
Take care of the rubber seal it can be reused if not damaged
This is the fiddly bit, trying to maneuver it out, using three hands :lol move the thermostat housing and throttle cable as needed to give a little bit more clearance to take the cover out. It will only come out to one side, I will leave you to discover which :lol
Plugs out
Alternator Generator cover off
Set timing to T mark as explained in last post
Inlet and exhaust of one of the outer cylinders (1 or 4) can be checked and the inlet or exhaust of cylinder 2 or 3 and exhaust of 2 or 3 can be checked.
Rotate the crank 360 degrees and check the remaining group.
Lightly Grease the rubber seal and rubber seals on cam cover bolts before refitting
The same fiddly issue problem when trying to get the cam cover back in place.
Cap bolts are 9Nm
Cam Cover bolts are 10Nm
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Aaarrrrr give me strength this fucking bike is frying my brain now n soz for swearing but so far ive changed plugs,leads,coils, now the carbs and still the problems still there no1 cylinder missing so what do you think folks and ive taken a 22 second video of it and it sounds like clattering at the top of cyl 1 can anyone tell me how upload the vid thanks
Gaz
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Bump anyone
Gaz
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Go to additional options on the post window and click the + sign.
One cylinder ???? sounds like a valve problem maybe an exhaust valve burned or clearance to tight.
Take off the cam cover and first check the valve clearance.
Then again how do you know the replacement carbs are ok.
What way are you counting the cylinders when sitting on the bike. Is your 1 on the left or on the right????
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Go to additional options on the post window and click the + sign.
One cylinder ???? sounds like a valve problem maybe an exhaust valve burned or clearance to tight.
Take off the cam cover and first check the valve clearance.
Then again how do you know the replacement carbs are ok.
What way are you counting the cylinders when sitting on the bike. Is your 1 on the left or on the right????
Hi m8 sitting on the bike its on the left...starts on the choke ok but off the choke it misses but when i turn it off then restart it starts perfect....ive only got rmt's word that they were ok and i specifically asked if there were any running issues and he said no so i put them straight on and its displaying exactly the same symptoms as b4 but the only difference is that if i put the choke on when its warm now it will run and not cut out where as b4 it would chugg and then cut out i dont know if that means anything...
cant upload vid as its too big
gaz
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Have you checked plug caps, mine died at 40k miles, was a different bike when they were replaced.
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Have you checked plug caps, mine died at 40k miles, was a different bike when they were replaced.
Hi m8 I have just got a new set this weekend. but while I've got the carbs off I'm going to strip out the jets n give em all a good blast thru with carb cleaner and give them a general clean as when I drained them the petrol was full of tiny black bits. I put the fazer on the bay last Sunday n was looking at ninjas but I gave the fazer a clean n started it n for that first minute or two running on the choke apart from the slight misfire it sounded lovely n then thought I can let it go for peanuts so took it off eBay n decided to keep it so I'll keep you all posted
Gaz