Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
General => General => Topic started by: king1 on 23 January 2015, 04:45:18 pm
-
HELP
Like a muppet I got confused when undoing the oil drain plug and ended up tightening it not loosening it.
Yes I have split the casing.
is there a fix, or is a new case?
Thanks
-
Post up a good close up picture so we can see the extent of the split.
-
Flippin eck I would not of thought that was even possible to do
-
pictures of my damage
I have found a replacment engine, bottom only for £30 but don't know how much it will cost to build it from mine :'(
-
Post up a good close up picture so we can see the extent of the split. Then we can really take the piss.
:agree
-
bloody hell. The wrong plug must have been fitted as the thread should strip before that happens. Either that or you have got a fault crank case.
-
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA nice one Dazza...... Seriousley tho that's weldable..... Take it to an engineering shop and get em to weld and retap it. No more than £50 and get em to put the bike on its side for access.
-
Surely that drain plug is in the sump casting and not the crankcase. You can remove it without taking the engine out but the exhaust will have to be removed first. Then get it welded up and re-tapped or just replace it.
-
oh sorry before i thought we were talking about the oil filter
-
If it is the 1998 1999 FZS 600 then all you need is a replacement sump, loads of them on ebay. Any sump from 1998 to 2003 FZS600 will fit
Remove the downpipes remove the exhaust gaskets, undo the 14 sump bolts, drop the sump clean off the old gasket, replace the gasket fit the replacement sump (with the 2 dowels), replace the exhaust gaskets replace the downpipes, fill with oil and away you go :)
-
As unfazed....just replaace with a good secondhand one, cheap on ebay.......be carefull when taking the downpipes off, the studs in the head break/strip easy and are a bit harder to fix than your sump.....
-
.be carefull when taking the downpipes off, the studs in the head break/strip easy and are a bit harder to fix than your sump.....
Yes search the forum on that subject first. (good heads up Red ) downpipe studs
-
yep you are right £30 fleebay for a sump
-
Thanks for all that
Just ordered one and gasket
hopefully exhaust should not give me trouble as it was onlyfitted just over 12 months ago :)
-
wow.
-
I would suggest the use of a torque wrench when reassembling the bits, it could save you learning the right touch with out further damage. We are all learning.
-
Make sure the plug comes out of the new one before you fit it..
-
Yeah..... An make sure u turn it the right fekkin way hehe
-
I would suggest the use of a torque wrench when reassembling the bits, it could save you learning the right touch with out further damage. We are all learning.
Agree, but make bloody sure you read the specs for each bolt. Most of the time the torque specs are for dry threads, you put copper grease on (or similar) and you need to knock about 1/3 off the torque specs, otherwise you'll snap the bolts. Stupid really, the torque spec for the oil drain plug is also dry, despite the fact it's going to be dry once in its entire life!
-
Don't beat yourself up everyone makes mistakes. Before I put the socket on the bolt I usually hold it in my hand and turn the ratchet to be sure it's going the right way before I use it.
Another one is loads of people over tighten sump bolts and spark plugs for fear of them coming undone which ruins the threads or snaps the plug in the head. You can even do it with a torque wrench if you miss the click.
-
Think, clockwise to tighten , anti-clockwise slacken,unless lefthand thread and I would be suprised if there are any on a Fazer???. Not a mechanic on the planet has made a similar mistake at sometime or other. Hope you get it sorted.
-
righty tighty.....lefty loosley :thumbup .........the down pipes only being on for 12 mths is going to help,to make things a little easier soak the studs with gt85 or similar every day for a few days before hand,reduce the risk of anything going wrong,when undoing the bolts/nuts, a little at a time , dont force things, ease them off loosening ,tighten a bit at a time.......loads of threads on downpipe removal on here well worth taking a few minutes reading through before you start ;) .....best tip of all.......take your time and plenty of tea :thumbup ....good luck and keep us posted :)
-
I take it there isn't a removable oil pressure relief valve mounted in the sump pan? My brother replaced the pan on his Z650 many moons ago, forgot to take the valve from the old pan and fit it to the new one, then ran the engine :eek
The damage this does, does not bear thinking about :lol
-
I take it there isn't a removable oil pressure relief valve mounted in the sump pan? My brother replaced the pan on his Z650 many moons ago, forgot to take the valve from the old pan and fit it to the new one, then ran the engine :eek
The damage this does, does not bear thinking about :lol
Nick, nothing but the oil level switch, most secondhand come with them attached.
-
King1 forgot to tell you :rolleyes the oil level switch connector is behind the sprocket cover. It only has one wire as it is earthed off the engine.
-
I would suggest the use of a torque wrench when reassembling the bits, it could save you learning the right touch with out further damage. We are all learning.
I would suggest getting someone else to do it! :rolleyes
-
I have a spare engine I really do need to strip it down
-
I would suggest the use of a torque wrench when reassembling the bits, it could save you learning the right touch with out further damage. We are all learning.
I would suggest getting someone else to do it! :rolleyes
:rollin :rollin :rollin
-
Oh you cruel people, ;) ;)