old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: Rexr on 12 January 2015, 12:42:33 pm
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Well there's one thing u can rely on with Yamaha and that's their shite quality standard disc bolts, I think their made of fecking cheese and why use different ones on the back (in fact beefier ones on the back) where's the fecking sense, I can see the drills coming out this week, if the heat and torx bits don't work........rant over for now lol ggggrrrrrr.........:(
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So is it worth attempting to take mine out,57 plate FZ1s , to refit then and know they will move ????
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So is it worth attempting to take mine out,57 plate FZ1s , to refit then and know they will move ????
Yes. But don't try it without an impact bolt. Probably worth replacing them with titanium whilst you're at it - about £35 a full set off eBay!
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OK, there's a challenge, oh and any reccomendations on refitting, i.e ,,dry..with grease,,threadlock , paint ?
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OK, there's a challenge, oh and any reccomendations on refitting, i.e ,,dry..with grease,,threadlock , paint ?
If you do get titanium, i'd definitely recommend some copper grease, otherwise they will dry weld themselves to your wheel, and you'll never get the bastards out. Just a little bit, and make sure if you torque them up you drop about 30% off the torque value to account for the grease!
Then just check them every now and again - I've never had any come loose due to the above, but better late than sorry!
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So is it worth attempting to take mine out,57 plate FZ1s , to refit then and know they will move ????
Yes. But don't try it without an impact bolt. Probably worth replacing them with titanium whilst you're at it - about £35 a full set off eBay!
The rears came out nae bother and I've got a full set of titanium to replace them......I had the same issues with my xjr.......
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You should use a semi permanent thread lock when fitting disc bolts, not copper grease. If you buy new Yamaha ones you will see some blue stuff in the threads, I can't remember the loctite equivalent off the top of my head.
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You should use a semi permanent thread lock when fitting disc bolts, not copper grease. If you buy new Yamaha ones you will see some blue stuff in the threads, I can't remember the loctite equivalent off the top of my head.
And that's the stuff that locks down hard over time and makes them a right bugger to get out!
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I've spent the last 2 weekends stripping, polishing and painting my wheels on my gen 1. Surprisingly I didn't get any real problems removing the disc bolts; I was obviously lucky...
I have replaced them however with Stainless bolts from Ebay knowing I'd get issues with the old cheese bolts in the future!
Getting new tyres fitted this afternoon and I can't wait to get the wheels back on the bike later... :-)
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Well with a bit of heat they came out very easy (bang in a torx bit take it back out and heat the bolt up for about 30 seconds and insert the torx bit and undo.... :) )
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The front and rears come out easy with a bit of heat and an impact wrench, you need that to break/soften the loctite.
Appliance of science and nearly 40 years of doing stuff like that :) [size=78%] [/size]