Post by: noggythenog on 04 September 2014, 08:39:47 pm
My Gen 2 has developed an issue whereby sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't.......but it is always turning over. there isn't really any pattern to it, cold, warm, start of the day, end of the day....just really random.
Usually starts within a second of pressing the starter switch and when running all is well.....but when it doesn't want to start it will just keep turning over until i switch off the ignition and try again.....sometimes 2 attempts, sometimes 3 or 4 and then it fires up...then next time i stop then it might just start within a second of the first attempt again.
When it has its funny turn then the engine trouble warning light flashes off and on until it fires and then it goes off.
Initial power up on the dash initiation is always the same and i always get all the same noises from the bike priming itself etc.
I believe if there was an electrical circuit fault then there is a self diagnosis device fitted and that there would then be fault code displayed where the clock time is usually displayed......i dont have any codes there....just the clock.
Just thought id ask if anyone has any suggestions to give me a head start when i talk to my garage about them checking it out so I'm not completely in the dark as i can do some googling beforehand.
Is the engine light flashing during the turning over normal?....as in on lots of engines cars and bikes you can have dash lights on until the engine starts and then they go out..........or is it genuinely indicating a fault.....if so then why no code???
What are the likely culprits???
I have oxford heated grips fitted and I've heard a few stories about them causing issues with bikes.....could they be the culprit???.....i dont really need them for my summer riding.
I dont have any electrical diagnostic tools....im just after some rough suggestions.....as said once the bike is running it goes well.
Could it just be something as simple as the battery being a bit goosed?
Any suggestions welcomed and listened to.......nobody likes an askhole :lol
Cheers
Nog
Post by: slappy on 04 September 2014, 09:25:26 pm
Post by: noggythenog on 04 September 2014, 09:31:33 pm
The first things I would check are the sidestand switch and the kill switch . Give them a good clean first. Then check the electrics on the ignition circuit, again make sure they are all clean and any multiplugs are corrosion free and tight fitting.
Cheers slappy........so tank off job and have a little fiddle around with any connectors that i can find.......i still havent looked under there so will be good to take a look.......theres some snipped wires coming off the left switchgear and down by the fairing.....previous owner says that they are to do with the previously installed tom tom but i have my doubts......another avenue i suppose.
I had half thought of the side stand and i was flicking it up and down a few times over my last rideout.........however.....if it was side stand or kill switch then wouldnt it just be dead instead of turning over???
Post by: slimwilly on 04 September 2014, 09:37:47 pm
it turned over fine but that took all the available power, pissed me off for a while.
Post by: slappy on 04 September 2014, 09:38:08 pm
As for the wires you mention that have been cut I would try to trace them to see what they might be still connected to.
Post by: noggythenog on 04 September 2014, 09:46:15 pm
Cheers geezers
It's a good excuse for me to piss about and take a look underneath.....ive been lazy as to take off the tank it looks like i take off the tank plastic thingy and the bolts are impossible to get to without taking out the infills which is just irksome.....my gut also says battery and if thats what yours did slim then it could just be that simple.....i might be able to blag a few more rideouts on this one yet and then ill prob buy a new one for next season instead of using it briefly and then having it sat all winter.......would also explain no error code on the self diagnostics.
Im decided on keeping the thou now so i just want to get a few of these bits n bobs sorted out and il have the stealer do a good service and check over next season.
Ta
Nog 8)
Post by: esetest on 04 September 2014, 11:53:50 pm
Post by: noggythenog on 05 September 2014, 07:29:53 pm
Well i got the battery out and ive stuck it on charge but i might well just buy a new one as it's nice to know a batteries history and start afresh.
Also checked out the loose wires...definately not from the tom tom......big clump of them all snipped off and taped up...dodgy dodgy!....foc knows....perhaps it was something to do with a mod at some point like exup removal or whatever i dunno just guessing...totally beyond me.
Also whipped up the tank & decided to take a deek at the air filter.......something tells me it needs replacing!......think ill order a K&N panel filter unless it isnt recomended without a power commander.
Post by: ogri48 on 05 September 2014, 07:45:14 pm
Post by: noggythenog on 05 September 2014, 08:05:51 pm
I've got a stock air filter with my pc3 mate. I'd say it was the battery nog..
Sounds like it Ogri doesnt it...& since slim had the exact same symptoms it makes sense.
So need to find a decent quality battery now.....yuasa seem to be the leaders but thats all ive really seen...had one on my 600 and it was good.
There's also quite a bit of grime on top of the air inlet thingies.....looking down on them they are covered in dust & grime so im guessing that it is crap that has gone through the filter......could do with some kind of spray down there to give it a bit of a clean.......any suggestions what i could use?.....im thinking WD40 will create a dust attracting film so maybe not best to use.
Regards the air filter...i do like quality so I've saved a K&N to my amazon shopping basket...£42 but at least it'll be good. 8)
Turning into a bit of a noggy SOS thread this aint it :rolleyes
Actually I'm off again to try find you those extra bits for the camera.
Post by: slappy on 05 September 2014, 09:50:47 pm
Post by: noggythenog on 05 September 2014, 09:52:46 pm
Your air filter looks just like the one I took out of mine! I put a k&n in, makes a lovely induction noise now.
Thats what id like....i love the noise of the gen2 already in full chatter so any improvement even if it is just noise will make me happy. 8)
Post by: slimwilly on 06 September 2014, 12:27:13 am
Post by: Dave48 on 06 September 2014, 07:54:56 am
While you have the tank up/seat off check all your electrical connectors-open up & check for any corrosion. clean & spray ACF 50 in them.
Your air filter looks shot-the K&N will transform your bikes breathing.
the winter months are a good time to do all these little jobs-then when you come out of hibernation you know the bike is "good to go" :lol
Post by: lew600fazer on 06 September 2014, 09:00:13 am
My gen 2 is probably going to need a new battery soon as it needs charging if I do not use the bike for a couple of weeks. There is not enough juice to turn the engine over.
From what I am picking up on your post there is still enough juice to crank over the engine , is it turning over at the correct speed or is it labouring to turn over? If it is labouring okay may be a battery issue but if not I think you have a problem elsewhere. I am no great shakes at motorcycle maintainence but sounds to me as if you could have a fuelling issue or a breakdown to the spark plug leads. Looking at your air filter , oh boy now that is filthy.
Lew
Post by: stevierst on 06 September 2014, 09:51:25 am
Do the airbox mod and K and n,, then listen to the induction growl,,its awesome :D
I did this with a BMC filter and full air box mod (same thing really) makes an awesome induction noise!!!
As for your intermittent starting....... You say it cranks over but doesn't fire? If it isn't the battery, then Tank off, and one by one pull the connectors apart and use electrical grease or connector treatment liberally to treat them. If it doesn't work, at least you have peace of mind that the connectors are not at fault, and they're protected from our glorious British weather!
Post by: ogri48 on 06 September 2014, 10:22:29 am
Induction noise is a lovely thing without a doubt...K & N or BMC sounds like the way forward
Post by: tony_d123 on 06 September 2014, 07:25:08 pm
Post by: tony_d123 on 06 September 2014, 07:47:23 pm
Codes for Gen II with explanation. Next time it acts up, get it into diagnostics mode.
1) Turn key to off
2) Turn ignition kill switch to run
3) Hold the select and reset button at the same time
4) Turn the key to run
5) Continue to hold the two buttons and count to about 10 at this point the display will show "d1"
6) Release the two buttons
7) Repress both buttons for 2 sec and the display will show d:01_____17
The 17 that I get, can be anything from 15-18. This is the throttle position reading. As you S L O W L Y roll on the throttle, the number on the dash has to roll smoothly up to between 95 and 100 at WOT
If you get any jumping or holes in the numbers the TPS is the issue and must be repaired.
Here is all of the codes that I have found as you scan thru them.
01 - Throttle position sensor signal
02 - Atmospheric pressure Displays the atmospheric
03 - Intake air pressure Displays the cylinder-#1
05 - Intake air temperature Displays the intake air temperature.
06 - Coolant temperature Displays the coolant temperature.
07 - Vehicle speed pulse 0–999 Check that the number
08 - Lean angle sensor Remove the lean angle
09 - Fuel system voltage
20 - Sidestand switch Set ON/OFF the sidestand
21 - Neutral switch Set ON/OFF the neutral
30 - Cylinder-#1 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#1 ignition
31 - Cylinder-#2 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#2 ignition
32 - Cylinder-#3 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#3 ignition
33 - Cylinder-#4 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#4 ignition
36 - Injector #1 Actuates the injector #1 five
37 - Injector #2 Actuates the injector #2 five
38 - Injector #3 Actuates the injector #3 five
39 - Injector #4 Actuates the injector #4 five
48 - Air induction system solenoid
50 - Fuel injection system relay Actuates the fuel injection
51 - Radiator fan motor relay Actuates the radiator fan
52 - Headlight relay Actuates the headlight relay
53 - Exup servo motor Actuate the servo motor turns
56 - Sub-throttle servo motor Actuate the servo motor turns
60 - EEPROM fault cylinder No
61 - Malfunction history code
62 - Malfunction history code
63 - Malfunction code reinstate
And here are the ECU error codes
11 - Cylinder identification sensor
12 - Crankshaft position sensor
13 - Intake air pressure sensor
14 - Intake air pressure sensor hose line
15 - Throttle position sensor (open or short circuit)
16 - Throttle position sensor (stuck)
17 - EXUP servo motor potention circuit
18 - EXUP servo motor (stuck)
19 - Sidestand switch (open circuit in the
20 - Intake air pressure sensor or atmospheric
21 - Coolant temperature sensor
22 - Intake air temperature sensor
23 - Atmospheric pressure sensor
24 - O2 sensor No normal signal is received from the O2 sensor.
30 - Lean angle sensor (latch up detected)
33 - Cylinder-#1 ignition coil
34 - Cylinder-#2 ignition coil
35 - Cylinder-#3 ignition coil
36 - Cylinder-#4 ignition coil
39 - Injector (open circuit)
41 - Lean angle sensor (open or short-circuit)
42 - Speed sensor No normal signals are received from the speed sensor.
43 - Fuel system voltage (monitoring voltage)
44 - Error in writing the amount of CO adjustment
46 - Vehicle system power supply
47 - Sub-throttle servo motor potention (open
48 - Monitor the operation of the sensors and
48 - Sub-throttle servo motor (lock)
50 - ECU internal malfunction (memory check error)
The check engine light comes on if you have an error code, and the code itself shows up in place of the odo.
Post by: noggythenog on 06 September 2014, 08:53:06 pm
Thanks for all the help....i do listen so on my Amazon shopping list is as follows:-
- K&N YA-1006 replacement air filter
- Motobatt quad flex heavy duty battery
- ACF50 motorcycle & automotive all metal anti corrosion spray
- Kong extreme ball small
Happy days!......& it would be rude to not do the airbox mod whatever it is.....it is free so therefore is a must have...ill need to check youtube for it.
& cheers for all those codes Tony......ill try the easy stuff first but at least i k ow what to do after that if i still have no luck.....interestingly the service manual makes no mention of that procedure for the fault diagnosis.....it basically just says turn on the ignition and you get a code where the clock is if there's a fault.
& good shout on possible alarm wires...you could be onto something there as i really dont think these wires are causing the issue...im just curious to figure out what they are....ill get round to properly tracing them.
Post by: slimwilly on 07 September 2014, 07:08:08 am
airbox 1 |
airbox 2 |
Post by: noggythenog on 07 September 2014, 10:18:52 am
Yep ill defo be cutting out the snorkel.
Blocking the AIS im not too fussed about as i dont really mind the popping noise......unless it is detrimental to the bike that is?.
& the flies look full size......again i could cut them down or tie them open but im not sure if the bike would then need a power commander which i cant really afford.
First things first.....find someone with a dremel multi tool.
Post by: slimwilly on 07 September 2014, 11:01:03 am
We ought to get doing some drag sting testing soon, you and i,, :)
Post by: noggythenog on 07 September 2014, 11:09:41 am
Oh, i thought it had a power commander, never mind keep it shiny side up.
We ought to get doing some drag sting testing soon, you and i,, :)
My mass keeps my wheels on the ground. :)
Bloody quick bikes
Post by: stevierst on 07 September 2014, 12:06:37 pm
Post by: slimwilly on 07 September 2014, 05:13:10 pm
do the 16 tooth front srocket,,about £16 on ebay,,it puts it the same as the Gen 1s then,16 tooth.The rear wheel slides back a touch to take the chain slack.
If you are not doing long motorway rides etc then it is a nice nice mod, hard to explain the difference but it alters the whole characteristics of all the gears.
The speedo will read slightly faster than you are doing, but not much,1.e 5% over plus they are already 5% over so 10%is more real.
On the list of mods for this model the great Ivan puts the 16 tooth on the must do list.
and he knows best :lol
Post by: stevierst on 07 September 2014, 07:51:21 pm
The Ivans reflash is supposed to be the daddy of the mods, bringing the humble FZ up to R1 power throughout the rev range
Post by: noggythenog on 12 September 2014, 06:32:09 pm
Got the new battery on today and i said to my missus.....i bet it doesnt start.....right enough.....it didnt.
Same old problem but i've at least swapped out the most obvious and im happy to k ow that i have a fresh battery as of now.
It is really random.......it started on the 3rd try....turned off then restarted straight away...& i third time......then didnt start on the 4th.......waited a while.....back out....started first time.
An important thing to note is this - it isn't how many times i press the starter button......when it does it i could press the starter 100 times and it wont start.........it is how many times i switch off and back on the ignition.....then it can start at the first press of the button straight away.
So it looks like i've got a long road ahead of diagnostics :( .
I did have a bit of trouble with the ignition a while back whereby the key wouldn't turn sometimes which i cured with some graphite spray.
Also i am completely alarmed by those loose and snipped wires on the front end......it's as if someone has taken a snipper to everything.....but why......it screams bodge job.......take a look......why on earth would you do something like that & how the foc is the bike still running.
Back to work now for a while but on my next days off ill go out for a spin at least and test out the new K&N and AIS mods.....once it is running it is fine and an absolute rocket.
Then i can seriously see me putting it into a garage to diagnose as i dont do wiring....especially not spaghetti junction wiring.
Post by: woodwizzard on 12 September 2014, 06:44:06 pm
Post by: noggythenog on 12 September 2014, 07:43:40 pm
Have you followed those wires back to anything? They look like add-ons and seperate to the main wiring system, so should be able to follow them back. Might be worth trying another ignition barrel by the sounds of it.
Not in great depth buddy...i know a couple are for the heated grips and ill be getting a garage to properly uninstall them at some point as they are just another thing to go wrong that i dont need...plus ive heard some bad stories about heated grips acting up.
The coax wire appears to go back to the battery and also into this thing which appears to be an inline fuse.
& i can hear an electrical click when im turning the bike over which appears to be coming from the small black box in the top right passed the battery......not sure what's in there and whether it is supposed to click anyway????
Post by: slimwilly on 12 September 2014, 08:31:17 pm
i guess if it was dodgy wiring then the fault would be all the time, even when riding,,but if you have no problem when riding then its not them.
So its the ignition,starting sequence,,thats where the problem is,,so concentrate there :\
Post by: noggythenog on 12 September 2014, 08:39:07 pm
Oh dear, it sure is a twat when these things play up.
i guess if it was dodgy wiring then the fault would be all the time, even when riding,,but if you have no problem when riding then its not them.
So its the ignition,starting sequence,,thats where the problem is,,so concentrate there :\
First thing im doing next days off is going for a bloody good spin though.......whats the worst that could happen with dodgy starting :\ .... :lol
Then it looks like ill be going through to ys fault code thingy which will hopefully throw something up to look at.
Post by: unfazed on 12 September 2014, 09:31:45 pm
Since it turns over it really rules out the clutch,side stand and kill switches.
Sounds like a mild corrosion issue, I would lift the tank and check the crank sensor connections.
You do not need to be an electrical genius to disconnect a plug and spray it with contact cleaner or WD40 and put it back together again.
Follow this procedure, take connector apart check it, spray it put it back together, take it apart again and put it back together again, then and only then move on to the next connector. This fixes 75% of electrical faults I have come across on bikes.
Time consuming, slow and tedious, but often well worth the trouble.
The service manual is good as it shows where all the items are.
Post by: noggythenog on 12 September 2014, 09:42:20 pm
Noggy, have not been on here with almost a month, did not realise you were having nuisance issue.
Since it turns over it really rules out the clutch,side stand and kill switches.
Sounds like a mild corrosion issue, I would lift the tank and check the crank sensor connections.
You do not need to be an electrical genius to disconnect a plug and spray it with contact cleaner or WD40 and put it back together again.
Follow this procedure, take connector apart check it, spray it put it back together, take it apart again and put it back together again, then and only then move on to the next connector. This fixes 75% of electrical faults I have come across on bikes.
Time consuming, slow and tedious, but often well worth the trouble.
The service manual is good as it shows where all the items are.
Good to have you back Unfazed 8) .....& i've seen you diagnose a fair few electrical demons on here so i'll go with that........ill try the diagnostics on the dash first and see what they come up with (if anything) & then ill attack the connectors......i was in a rush to get everything back together yesterday and wanted to try the new battery so i just sprayed ACF50 on everything but when i get more time i'll systematically open up each connector......it has been said previously so i really need to take the time to do it......plus if any others are close to becoming troublesome i might just nip them in the bud before they start.
I am confident.
Cheers!
Post by: slimwilly on 12 September 2014, 10:05:58 pm
it would be criminal if i did not meet up with you this year :o
Post by: noggythenog on 12 September 2014, 10:09:41 pm
Oh mr Noggy, i will buy a rope and come and tow you around, :lol
it would be criminal if i did not meet up with you this year :o
Ill be out again......but once i start i cant stop so that's 150 miles of fun before i put on my face of shame outside a biker caf with the bling bike struggling to start & passers by spitting on me like the piece of dirt that i am. :b
Post by: pilgo on 13 September 2014, 05:52:13 pm
Oh mr Noggy, i will buy a rope and come and tow you around, :lol
it would be criminal if i did not meet up with you this year :o
Ill be out again......but once i start i cant stop so that's 150 miles of fun before i put on my face of shame outside a biker caf with the bling bike struggling to start & passers by spitting on me like the piece of dirt that i am. :b
you told me NEVER to mention this happening outside the cafe at Llandovery, glad you have found the strength to confess it now !! :lol
hope you get it sorted soon mr noggy :thumbup
Post by: noggythenog on 13 September 2014, 07:34:19 pm
Oh mr Noggy, i will buy a rope and come and tow you around, :lol
it would be criminal if i did not meet up with you this year :o
Ill be out again......but once i start i cant stop so that's 150 miles of fun before i put on my face of shame outside a biker caf with the bling bike struggling to start & passers by spitting on me like the piece of dirt that i am. :b
you told me NEVER to mention this happening outside the cafe at Llandovery, glad you have found the strength to confess it now !! :lol
hope you get it sorted soon mr noggy :thumbup
Ha ha.....i'm worthless mate!
It's like one of those vehicles in an american film that wont start at the most dangerous time & you think nah that'd never happen....my bike's got whatever they have......i just need to remember to stop over railway lines etc. :lol
Post by: noggythenog on 14 September 2014, 03:45:48 pm
I'm gonna try the self diagnostic tool on the speedo tonight but I've got thinking about what stuff has gone on recently and I did have all that hassle when I broke down due to the loose bolt on my rear set for the gear linkage....I since then ratcheted up a spare bolt and I'm now thinking that during my last run I had a brief issue at one of the times I stopped where the linkage was jumping about a bit and I was having a bit of trouble trying to select Neutral etc.
Now just a thought for picking your brains but.....ok I've already discounted the side stand switch and it not being in Neutral or the kill switch etc during start up because then it wouldn't turn over whatsoever...and it always turns over.... but could it be teetering on the edge of gears and causing this issue.....or would it be a straight forward it either is in Neutral or it isn't type scenario....and just not turn over?
I'm not with the bike right now but would holding in the Clutch while starting it up negate that....I cant remember now whether the bike will start if say I'm in first gear with the Clutch held in....I think it will....it's just another theory I've got to try diagnose that I could always put it in 1st gear and then hold in the Clutch....if I got half a dozen good starts then that would indicate the problem to me.... but is it a sound theory or an absolute piece of nonsense?
Post by: noggythenog on 14 September 2014, 06:40:53 pm
Not sure if it's any use in your case as you don't seem to get any error codes, but just wondered whether you can run a diagnostic check to see any historic error codes? copied from the US Fazer forum:-
Codes for Gen II with explanation. Next time it acts up, get it into diagnostics mode.
1) Turn key to off
2) Turn ignition kill switch to run
3) Hold the select and reset button at the same time
4) Turn the key to run
5) Continue to hold the two buttons and count to about 10 at this point the display will show "d1"
6) Release the two buttons
7) Repress both buttons for 2 sec and the display will show d:01_____17
The 17 that I get, can be anything from 15-18. This is the throttle position reading. As you S L O W L Y roll on the throttle, the number on the dash has to roll smoothly up to between 95 and 100 at WOT
If you get any jumping or holes in the numbers the TPS is the issue and must be repaired.
Here is all of the codes that I have found as you scan thru them.
01 - Throttle position sensor signal
02 - Atmospheric pressure Displays the atmospheric
03 - Intake air pressure Displays the cylinder-#1
05 - Intake air temperature Displays the intake air temperature.
06 - Coolant temperature Displays the coolant temperature.
07 - Vehicle speed pulse 0–999 Check that the number
08 - Lean angle sensor Remove the lean angle
09 - Fuel system voltage
20 - Sidestand switch Set ON/OFF the sidestand
21 - Neutral switch Set ON/OFF the neutral
30 - Cylinder-#1 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#1 ignition
31 - Cylinder-#2 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#2 ignition
32 - Cylinder-#3 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#3 ignition
33 - Cylinder-#4 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#4 ignition
36 - Injector #1 Actuates the injector #1 five
37 - Injector #2 Actuates the injector #2 five
38 - Injector #3 Actuates the injector #3 five
39 - Injector #4 Actuates the injector #4 five
48 - Air induction system solenoid
50 - Fuel injection system relay Actuates the fuel injection
51 - Radiator fan motor relay Actuates the radiator fan
52 - Headlight relay Actuates the headlight relay
53 - Exup servo motor Actuate the servo motor turns
56 - Sub-throttle servo motor Actuate the servo motor turns
60 - EEPROM fault cylinder No
61 - Malfunction history code
62 - Malfunction history code
63 - Malfunction code reinstate
And here are the ECU error codes
11 - Cylinder identification sensor
12 - Crankshaft position sensor
13 - Intake air pressure sensor
14 - Intake air pressure sensor hose line
15 - Throttle position sensor (open or short circuit)
16 - Throttle position sensor (stuck)
17 - EXUP servo motor potention circuit
18 - EXUP servo motor (stuck)
19 - Sidestand switch (open circuit in the
20 - Intake air pressure sensor or atmospheric
21 - Coolant temperature sensor
22 - Intake air temperature sensor
23 - Atmospheric pressure sensor
24 - O2 sensor No normal signal is received from the O2 sensor.
30 - Lean angle sensor (latch up detected)
33 - Cylinder-#1 ignition coil
34 - Cylinder-#2 ignition coil
35 - Cylinder-#3 ignition coil
36 - Cylinder-#4 ignition coil
39 - Injector (open circuit)
41 - Lean angle sensor (open or short-circuit)
42 - Speed sensor No normal signals are received from the speed sensor.
43 - Fuel system voltage (monitoring voltage)
44 - Error in writing the amount of CO adjustment
46 - Vehicle system power supply
47 - Sub-throttle servo motor potention (open
48 - Monitor the operation of the sensors and
48 - Sub-throttle servo motor (lock)
50 - ECU internal malfunction (memory check error)
The check engine light comes on if you have an error code, and the code itself shows up in place of the odo.
Thanks for this Tony, top man.
I've just done the test and i get D01 16.................so according to that list above then i have the Throttle position sensor (Stuck) code...is that right?..does it sound like a likely culprit based on my symptoms?......but i'm lost as to the whole throttle thing.....as i hold in the buttons and the fault code D01 16 is displayed and then i slowly twist the throttle then it goes from this 16 all the way up to 96 and then back down to 16 as i throttle off......but i really don't know the relevance of this part?
Is this code pretty reliable or is it common to get this code with mods or for other faults to wrongly present this code?
If it is the TPS then i know where it is as i noticed it under the tank the other day but from there on i'm stumped again......i also know that above the TPS is a little revolving nut that clicks around (i accidentally knocked it a notch and then back again) anyone know what it is?
So many questions......such a small brain :)
Post by: slimwilly on 15 September 2014, 06:44:13 am
Post by: unfazed on 15 September 2014, 08:53:05 am
Post by: noggythenog on 15 September 2014, 11:01:52 am
D01 16 Throttle position sensor (Stuck) will not prevent it starting
I think you're right, it is most likely a red herring.....i bet that code would have come up even before i was having starting issues....i will be doing all the connectors when i get some time as i need to do it slowly and methodically.
Sods law i've started up the bike about 6 times since yesterday evening and it hasn't failed to start once.
Post by: noggythenog on 15 September 2014, 11:12:16 am
D01 16 Throttle position sensor (Stuck) will not prevent it starting
& i've had no throttle issues whatsoever.
Post by: slimwilly on 15 September 2014, 01:06:28 pm
you go out to test the start,,it starts,,,
you organise a big trip,,get all your gear on,,go out,,,it won't start :lol
Mine was like that for a while.. :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol bastard
Post by: tony_d123 on 15 September 2014, 01:24:43 pm
I've just done the test and i get D01 16.................so according to that list above then i have the Throttle position sensor (Stuck) code...is that right?..does it sound like a likely culprit based on my symptoms?......but i'm lost as to the whole throttle thing.....as i hold in the buttons and the fault code D01 16 is displayed and then i slowly twist the throttle then it goes from this 16 all the way up to 96 and then back down to 16 as i throttle off......but i really don't know the relevance of this part?
Is this code pretty reliable or is it common to get this code with mods or for other faults to wrongly present this code?
If it is the TPS then i know where it is as i noticed it under the tank the other day but from there on i'm stumped again......i also know that above the TPS is a little revolving nut that clicks around (i accidentally knocked it a notch and then back again) anyone know what it is?
So many questions......such a small brain :)
Sorry Nog, I can't really help you, I just saw the codes on the US Fazer site and thought it may help you pinpoint the fault. The taped up wires look like they could from the LH handlebar switch, is that correct? The fused wire from the battery may have fed a relay for accessories such as more powerful horns or a 12v socket. You would use the horn wire to switch the relay.
Post by: noggythenog on 15 September 2014, 02:43:51 pm
Thanks mate, its a handy thing to know.
& yep ive got a 12v socket under the seat plus theres the led indicators, integrated rear light, a gear shift indicator & a tom tom wire so there's a few culprits for those wires...they've always been like that so as untidy as they are im not sure they are the culprit either.
Looking forward to getting at those connectors now. 8)
Post by: tony_d123 on 15 September 2014, 07:51:11 pm
Post by: pilgo on 16 September 2014, 06:11:05 pm
I had a similar thing with my FZS600, every now and then it wouldn't start, but in my case wouldn't even turn over. It turned out to be the Datatool alarm immobiliser. Finally after it refused to start when I stopped at a petrol station in the middle of nowhere I took it to a dealer to get it removed. Intermittent faults are a pain!
this !! ^
had exactly the same symptoms,removed the immobiliser and jobs a good one,starts first time,great peace of mind,not worrying that 'will it start' every time you turn it off. your'll get there noggy :lol
Post by: unfazed on 16 September 2014, 07:41:25 pm
I uploaded the 2008 FZ1 service manual to the site this morning. It will give the location of all the bits
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;cat=4 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;cat=4)
Post by: noggythenog on 16 September 2014, 10:40:32 pm
Noggy
I uploaded the 2008 FZ1 service manual to the site this morning. It will give the location of all the bits
[url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;cat=4[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;cat=4[/url])
cheers! :thumbup
almost got some days off so looking forward to tinkering.
Watching the revs after start up the other day I also noticed that it appears to be ticking over quite low at about 800rpm and I've read that 1300rpm is more suitable for the FZ1...thing is I cant quite remember it ticking over this low before or maybe it was and I just didn't notice.
Also I removed the baffle recently didn't I and so that also got me thinking along the lines of has removing the baffle somehow affected back pressure.....I think i'll stick the baffle back in anyway and then see what the tick over is like and if it is still low then I've looked up where the tick over adjustor is so i'll put it up a bit over the 1000rpm at least.
& then if it is indeed just a connector then I've also managed to adjust and spray and good few other bits n bobs anyway so happy days. :)
Post by: noggythenog on 17 September 2014, 08:47:56 pm
Put the baffle back in.
Took the gear linkage off and back on at a different angle on the splines...adjusted it.
Increased the idle to about 1300rpm
Some more graphite spray in the ignition.
I did about 50 miles and i stopped 3 times and restarted with not a single starting issue but ill need more of a long term test to see if it does it.
The airbox mod is awesome and theres a really deep growl at about 5-6k revs before wind noise blocks it out...really cool though.
I've also noticed that one of or maybe all of the mods have made the throttle less snatchy which is a good result 8) [size=78%] [/size]
Post by: unfazed on 17 September 2014, 08:54:44 pm
Post by: slimwilly on 18 September 2014, 07:58:14 am
Post by: pilgo on 20 September 2014, 07:27:55 pm
Hey chaps i had a little bit of time and was desperate to get out for a spin so i haven't done all the connectors yet but i did do the following:-
Put the baffle back in.
Took the gear linkage off and back on at a different angle on the splines...adjusted it.
Increased the idle to about 1300rpm
Some more graphite spray in the ignition.
I did about 50 miles and i stopped 3 times and restarted with not a single starting issue but ill need more of a long term test to see if it does it.
The airbox mod is awesome and theres a really deep growl at about 5-6k revs before wind noise blocks it out...really cool though.
I've also noticed that one of or maybe all of the mods have made the throttle less snatchy which is a good result 8)
:thumbup