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Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: hightower on 01 April 2014, 08:04:27 am
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Which cylinder base gasket do I want?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs600+cylinder+base+gasket&_nkw=fzs600+cylinder+base+gasket&_sacat=0&_from=R40 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs600+cylinder+base+gasket&_nkw=fzs600+cylinder+base+gasket&_sacat=0&_from=R40)
There's 5 different 2000 models.
Also, the cylinder head gasket I ordered was this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200827810660?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200827810660?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)
Have I ordered the wrong one?
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You should be fine with any that start with 5D.... i think :z
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Anyone confirm this? If so, why are there 5 options?
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Quick bump for those coming in from work - be cool if I can order tomorrow so appreciate any advice.
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The first link are base gaskets...fit between the crank cases and cylinder block....you wont need that one :)......the m&p one is the one you want......thats a good price, I paid £30 for mine :\
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Have you checked the price of a yamaha gasket? I think you're better off using yamaha gaskets and seals if you can
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The first link are base gaskets...fit between the crank cases and cylinder block....you wont need that one :) ......the m&p one is the one you want......thats a good price, I paid £30 for mine :\
I think I do need a base too: I plan on taking the block off to paint it (may as well since head is off. Even if I don't, the base came up off the crank case about an inch when I removed the head, so guessing I need a new gasket because of that?
If I take the block off, is it easy enough or do I need to be aware of anything?
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The Yamaha head gasket is £30 and the base gasket is £23 from wemoto.
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Ah ok......block comes off easy and as you have broken the seal best to fit a new gasket ;)......job is easy but.....its a pain compressing the rings and easing all 4 pistons back into the bores.......Allow yourself plenty of time and plenty of tea breaks ;)....remember all bolts to go back where they came from...a piece of card with holes in will keep them in the right order....good luck :)
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Bolts? The only things holding the head and block on were nuts - I've got them laid out anyhow, my whiteboard is full of 'what goes where'.
In the Hayne's manual it says it's easier to get the pistons on because the cylinders are tapered slightly at the bottom - let's see how much the Hayne's manual lie lol, because I'm expecting anything but easy! It also says to crank it so pistons 2 & 3 are up first (as they are inside) and then it makes it easier to access. Surely if I crank it though, it will throw off the timing marks I'd made on the chain and sprocket? Timing scares the hell out of me.
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Bolts, nuts, studs, fixings, screws, fasteners.....you know what I mean :lol.....yes the taper does make it easier, middle two first and then the two outer as john says, doing two at once is the fiddly bit, take your time and you'll be fine......dont worry about your timing marks on the chain and sprockets, rotate the engine to make refitting the barrels easier.....timing is easy, nothing to worry about, let us know when you get there.....your doing well fella :D
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Cheers red, got a bit further today - head and block degreased and jet washed - ready for a wee lick of paint now, then will lap the valves. Not tonight obviously, it's beer o'clock.
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P.S. Haynes says only turn the crank counter-clockwise to get TDC before I split everything down. I'm guessing now the cams are off and the pistons are left free it should be ok to turn clockwise?