old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: mickvp on 19 February 2014, 11:49:51 pm
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How the feck do you use one of these pissin chain breaker tools? I bought one of the Cheapo Ebay efforts to get this chain and sprockets swapped over. I tried to have a go tonight, but it wasnt happening.
I cant find my "master" link, do I need to use it on this link?
Do I NEED to buff off the heads of the pins with an angle grinder beforehand, or do i just use brute force and ignorance with this tool?
The tool looks like this:
(http://images.esellerpro.com/2347/I/912/62/IMG_6089Webshot.jpg)
what bits do I need on? I assume the different sized pins depends on the chain size?
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I bought one of those... afraid to say it was an absolute waste of money, fecking useless piece of cheap crap that just wasn't man enough for the job
Ended up borrowing one of the DID chain tools from a foccer which worked perfectly
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Chain-Cutter-and-Riveting-Tool/dp/B002D2TJ46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392856430&sr=8-1&keywords=DID+chain+tool (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Chain-Cutter-and-Riveting-Tool/dp/B002D2TJ46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392856430&sr=8-1&keywords=DID+chain+tool)
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I had a feeling that would be the response. The tool itself feels ok, but those bits thay are suppose to push the pin out look like cheap shite.
Looks like ill be stopping at b and q after work tomorrow for an angle grinder then :lol
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I think the OEM chain is an endless one and doesn't have a master link.
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Don't bother grinding the rivet heads off then try to push the pins through. That's what I tried at first and it was a waste of time, just put a cutting disc on and chop the old chain.
Be careful when you're riveting the new link on. My cheapo tool like that slipped off centre and split the rivet head. Then it failed it's MOT so I had to buy a new link and pay someone to fit it with a proper tool.
Before you cut the chain loosen the front sprocket nut and use the back brake to stop the nut/sprocket spinning.
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I bought one of those... afraid to say it was an absolute waste of money, fecking useless piece of cheap crap that just wasn't man enough for the job
Ended up borrowing one of the DID chain tools from a foccer which worked perfectly
[url]http://www.amazon.co.uk/Chain-Cutter-and-Riveting-Tool/dp/B002D2TJ46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392856430&sr=8-1&keywords=DID+chain+tool[/url] ([url]http://www.amazon.co.uk/Chain-Cutter-and-Riveting-Tool/dp/B002D2TJ46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392856430&sr=8-1&keywords=DID+chain+tool[/url])
Funny, because I have one of those and that failed on the first attempt.
Tbh I think the only chain tool that can be relied on are the whale ones that you smash with a hammer- made from the start to stand up to brute force, and as should be expected they ain't cheap!
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2 second job with bolt croppers
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I had a feeling that would be the response. The tool itself feels ok, but those bits thay are suppose to push the pin out look like cheap shite.
Looks like ill be stopping at b and q after work tomorrow for an angle grinder then :lol
Yup, precisely. All the pins bent pretty much instantly - next time I'm pretty sure I'll just cut the chain off as advised above, but at the time I didn't have the means
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I think that's where I'm going now, I'll just grind the old chain off, I'm pretty sure this shitey tool can be trusted to press the new pins closed with the rivet bit, but it's naff all use for removing the chain!
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Just cut it off with a hacksaw? I have done this a bunch of times with no issues. And as stated, undo the front sprocket nut first. And get your new nut and washer too. Ride-on with be happy to overcharge you for it mate.
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Same here mine's crap too! I snapped the handle on mine.
I grind the head off the old soft link, and push the pin out with crap tool, link the new chain to the old one, pull it through, and place the new soft link in. I then use two ball pein hammers to rivet the soft link. Just like they did in the old days. Never fails!
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Just cut it off with a hacksaw? I have done this a bunch of times with no issues. And as stated, undo the front sprocket nut first. And get your new nut and washer too. Ride-on with be happy to overcharge you for it mate.
I know it can be done with a hacksaw, and I know how petty this will sound - BUT, I don't want to do it that way as it chucks metal filings all over the wheel which I then need to clean and iron x to get it off. If I use a grinder I can put something between the chain and wheel to stop the filings getting in.
I've not got a new nut yet actually, but I did have the thick one on previously, I'll pop into ride on tomorrow and pick one up.
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I assume you don't have them, but bolt croppers? Will save on the metal filling crap :)
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I assume you don't have them, but bolt croppers? Will save on the metal filling crap :)
I don't mate unfortunately, I'll have a look in the shop tonight, and see what the price difference is, I suspect I can get a basic angle grinder for less.
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I've had no problems with the DID tool, like the one linked to above.
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If you get a hand file and file the head off the rivet your chain tool should work. I got this tool and it broke the chain with no problems http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/chain-tools/sealey-chain-breaker-and-riveter (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/chain-tools/sealey-chain-breaker-and-riveter)
A tip I'd give is measure the diameter of the pin and the hole on the new rivet before you join it then you'll know when you've riveted the head enough
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Just cut it off with a hacksaw? I have done this a bunch of times with no issues. And as stated, undo the front sprocket nut first. And get your new nut and washer too. Ride-on with be happy to overcharge you for it mate.
I know it can be done with a hacksaw, and I know how petty this will sound - BUT, I don't want to do it that way as it chucks metal filings all over the wheel which I then need to clean and iron x to get it off. If I use a grinder I can put something between the chain and wheel to stop the filings getting in.
I've not got a new nut yet actually, but I did have the thick one on previously, I'll pop into ride on tomorrow and pick one up.
I have never had that problem mate. Take the blade off the saw and put it through the chain, then re-attach it and saw from there. The metal falls on the ground then. Bring it over and I'll saw the thing off for you. I'm in all day tomorrow. :)
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A decent chain tool will push a rivet out without having to grind anything off. Trick is you need to get the pin on the tool dead straight on the rivet then nip it. Then gradually turn to free it. Try and do it nest the sprocket as you can use the sprocket to lever down on....failing that cut it off as said,thin blade angle grinder... 1sec later it's off
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Im now the proud owner of a black and decker angle grinder (it was on offer, so got it and some discs for under £30). that chains coming off TODAY! :lol
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Nice one Mick
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contrary to that ^^^, ive still not got around to this. Can anyone tell me what size the front sprocket nut is, is it 32mm?
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Off hand I believe you are correct, I had it written down somewhere but I'll be damned if I can find it... I also confirmed it in a thread in this sub-forum... but I don't remember which thread :(
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+ 2. To the sealey one.ground the heads off and pushed the pins out.then flared the heads over.kept taking it off to check the progress.you only get one shot at it.so a little at a time. Some people do it the old fashioned way,with a ball pein hammer
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I can confirm for anyone doing this job that the front sprocket nut size is indeed 32mm. Ive got the front and rear sprockets changed, so tomorrow night I just need to fit the new chain.
I was speaking to an old timer in work on friday and he recommended the ball pein method as well, ill try it with the tool first though. slowly :lol.
I assume my front sprocket was an OEM one, are these thicker than the D.I.D ones?
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I can confirm for anyone doing this job that the front sprocket nut size is indeed 32mm. Ive got the front and rear sprockets changed, so tomorrow night I just need to fit the new chain.
I was speaking to an old timer in work on friday and he recommended the ball pein method as well, ill try it with the tool first though. slowly :lol.
I assume my front sprocket was an OEM one, are these thicker than the D.I.D ones?
The OEM ones have a thick rubber washer welded to the inside. To stop noise. I always buy an OEM front sprocket
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ah yes. and a small metal lip which protrudes on either side too? must be an OEM one i had on then.
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Finally got the chain and sprockets totally finished tonight :o
Now - onto painting that engine!