old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: bigbluebear on 08 December 2013, 03:09:08 pm
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I was putting new bolts on my disks as my old ones were getting a bitt tatty.....one of the new ones must have been faulty as it sheared whilst tightening. Any one know the best way to get it out before the Loctite sets
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Sheared as in the head has snapped leaving threaded section in the wheel? Or has the allen socket just stripped? Several of the Allen sockets failed when I took the old off (not putting the new ones in though) and I used a Dremel to grind off the sides so I could get a spanner on to them.
If it's the former then perhaps a screw extractor set:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-extractor-5-piece-set/18643 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-extractor-5-piece-set/18643)
although I never really got on with them...
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Bike shop, pronto, and use the back brake?
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Has it sheared off level with the hub or with the disc. If with the disc , take the disc off should be enough to get mole grips on the bolt to remove it
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use a fine centre punch and chap it round anti-clockwise (assuming a right hand thread) with a hammer to loosen it :)
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Its sheared off inside the wheel and I cant get to it....I'm tempted to drill it....may now have to buy the screw extractor tool as suggested by Steeeve66
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if its loctite'd in, you rn the risk of snapping the screw extractor in it (plus you need to drill a pilot hole anyway).
Best bet is to drill it out fully, and fit a time-sert, failing that helicoil it or drill and tap the next size up.
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What type of bolts were you using?
Is it too deep below the surface to weld a nut on?
Don't worry about the lock tight as it fails at around 200c, so you would just heat it up with a gas torch, obviously if your welding a nut on there is no need to heat it at all..
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What type of bolts were you using?
Is it too deep below the surface to weld a nut on?
Don't worry about the lock tight as it fails at around 200c, so you would just heat it up with a gas torch, obviously if your welding a nut on there is no need to heat it at all..
Official Yamaha bolts, and yeah I've heard you can melt the Loctite......I think its going to have to go to the mechanic as its well in.
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If you've got a small engineering shop near you they'll probably get it out without fitting a timesert and might be cheaper . I've done quite a few in the past and clamping and drilling is better than using a hand drill
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Take wheel to an engineering shop, get them to weld a nut on the end and it will come out easily, even if it's broken flush you can still do it.
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..agree with the above - best take it to an engineering shop. For 20 or 30 quid they should be able to get it out without damaging the wheel at all and for that sort of money id say its not worth the risk of trying it yourself.
Although they sound like a great idea i've never been able to get those screw extractors to work.
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Another +1 for engineering shops - usually a few of them around every town. I took the entire engine block from my 600 to a place to have the exhaust studs removed after 2 snapped flush, only cost £40 - which is damn good considering
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Personally i would drill it out. I would start with the smallest metal drill bit and make sure the first hole is centre and straight. it doesn't matter how long it takes, then go next size up and continue until a few mm from the edges, then use a bolt that is a tight fit and try to thread onto remainder of disc bolt and hopefully with all the drilling it will come out when taking back out. Good luck!
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My usual method is to use a left hand drill bit at a slow speed as the heat softens the Loctite and it is will spin out slowly. Start small with a 4mm bit.