old - Fazer Owners Club - old
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: topgun44 on 08 December 2011, 05:34:59 pm
-
Hi all have any fit a 120/70/17 on the front do it ride safe .
Thanks all ;)
-
think it would make turning interesting... :lol
-
think it would make turning interesting... :lol
How? :rolleyes
-
You have to change the rim. A TRX850/FZR600R/FZR400R will fit. I have one ready that I'll put soon.
But you can install a 170/60 rear, I haven't tried it yet but actually it is the proper size for the 5" wide rims.
-
not worth it you will deform the tyre
-
thanks people that clear that one up ;)
-
Hi all have any fit a 120/70/17 on the front do it ride safe .
Thanks all ;)
Not sure it will fit under the frond fender. Perhaps 120/60/17. But I hear it affects handling. Wouldn't risk it.
-
OMG, thanks for that guys, have been using ones for 20 000 miles now without issues and now I find I need to fit a new rim :eek . The 120 means that you do not run off the edge of the front tyre when you get right over and is safer if anything. Maybe I should go back to a 110 for safety :eek oh you guys make me smile. :evil
-
Fair enough but still your using a 3.5" tyre on a 3" rim so at best its not got the profile that Bridgestone Michelin etc intended.
-
And would make any potential insurance claim interesting....
-
And would make any potential insurance claim interesting....
really? :rollin you read too many books and listen to too much bollocks :rollin
-
Fair enough but still your using a 3.5" tyre on a 3" rim so at best its not got the profile that Bridgestone Michelin etc intended.
10mm different, 5mm per side. 4,33" as opposed to 4,72" nominally. Fits quite happily on there and means that you still have tread when the rear runs out, I ride on the front so it's good for me. I expect fitting the occasional 190 on the rear of my other bike instead of the 180 is dodgy too :rollin The profile is slightly pulled but so what, not excessive, not dangerous, helps handling, more rubber on road too. Get a grip for pitys sake. I suppose my Renthalls, bar end mirrors, fazer 1000 rear caliper, disc of a thundercat, screen bolts, perch bolts and so on aren't good as Yamaha didn't fit them, goodness knows about the blue flame and stainless downpipes, and oh god the main stand isn't fitted and the rear is jacked up too. It's a hanging for sure :evil
-
Fair enough but still your using a 3.5" tyre on a 3" rim so at best its not got the profile that Bridgestone Michelin etc intended.
10mm different, 5mm per side. 4,33" as opposed to 4,72" nominally. Fits quite happily on there and means that you still have tread when the rear runs out, I ride on the front so it's good for me. I expect fitting the occasional 190 on the rear of my other bike instead of the 180 is dodgy too :rollin The profile is slightly pulled but so what, not excessive, not dangerous, helps handling, more rubber on road too. Get a grip for pitys sake. I suppose my Renthalls, bar end mirrors, fazer 1000 rear caliper, disc of a thundercat, screen bolts, perch bolts and so on aren't good as Yamaha didn't fit them, goodness knows about the blue flame and stainless downpipes, and oh god the main stand isn't fitted and the rear is jacked up too. It's a hanging for sure :evil
Check any tyre brand chart to convince yourself. They explain allowed and recommended tyre sizes per rim sizes. I did not find anyone which allow what you are doing. 110 on 3.5" are allowed but not the opposite. Anyway I'd stick with the recommended fitting. That is why I will try a 170 rear by the way.
-
Check any tyre brand chart to convince yourself. They explain allowed and recommended tyre sizes per rim sizes. I did not find anyone which allow what you are doing. 110 on 3.5" are allowed but not the opposite. Anyway I'd stick with the recommended fitting. That is why I will try a 170 rear by the way.
not sure the 170 will gain any benefit apart from slower turn in. I did fit a 150 on an ER5 instead of the 120 and that was far better though. The 190 on the Bird feels much the same as the 180 too. Give it a go, that's how we find what works and doesn't. The 120 works for me. I still prefer the Roadsmarts to the currently fitted 023 especially in the wet.
-
Check any tyre brand chart to convince yourself. They explain allowed and recommended tyre sizes per rim sizes. I did not find anyone which allow what you are doing. 110 on 3.5" are allowed but not the opposite. Anyway I'd stick with the recommended fitting. That is why I will try a 170 rear by the way.
not sure the 170 will gain any benefit apart from slower turn in. I did fit a 150 on an ER5 instead of the 130 and that was far better though. The 190 on the Bird feels much the same as the 180 too. Give it a go, that's how we find what works and doesn't. The 120 works for me. I still prefer the Roadsmarts to the currently fitted 023 especially in the wet.
-
Check any tyre brand chart to convince yourself. They explain allowed and recommended tyre sizes per rim sizes. I did not find anyone which allow what you are doing. 110 on 3.5" are allowed but not the opposite. Anyway I'd stick with the recommended fitting. That is why I will try a 170 rear by the way.
not sure the 170 will gain any benefit apart from slower turn in. I did fit a 150 on an ER5 instead of the 120 and that was far better though. The 190 on the Bird feels much the same as the 180 too. Give it a go, that's how we find what works and doesn't. The 120 works for me. I still prefer the Roadsmarts to the currently fitted 023 especially in the wet.
The 170 rear will balance the height with the 120/70 - 3.5" front wheel I just put. Also the 160 on the 5" is flattened theoretically, so maybe the bike will have a faster turn in. We'll see...
-
The 170 rear will balance the height with the 120/70 - 3.5" front wheel I just put. Also the 160 on the 5" is flattened theoretically, so maybe the bike will have a faster turn in. We'll see...
sounds tenuous but we don't find these things out unless we try them.
-
Not as tenuous as this:
The 120 means that you do not run off the edge of the front tyre when you get right over and is safer if anything. Maybe I should go back to a 110 for safety :eek oh you guys make me smile. :evil
On track, with the 110, I had stiffened suspensions (almost not free sag) and put jack up kit and still scratched a lot the pegs without hero blobs and the crash protectors (had to remove them)and even scratched slightly a thin homemade exhaust. The edge of the rear tyre weared a lot. And there was still more than 1 mm of front tyre unused...
-
The edge of the rear tyre weared a lot. And there was still more than 1 mm of front tyre unused...
about 10mm with the 120.
Nearly sag free eh, surprised the Moto GP teams aren't snapping you up :rollin whatever works for you.
-
The edge of the rear tyre weared a lot. And there was still more than 1 mm of front tyre unused...
about 10mm with the 120.
Nearly sag free eh, surprised the Moto GP teams aren't snapping you up :rollin whatever works for you.
that last one 1mm was impossible to reach, the bike was scratching already with the peg a bit folded. I do not see the point of having 10mm, also the lean angle you need to reach them will be crazy, no way the bike can lean so much, you will be scratching the frame first... better put the proper rim.
I did not say that almost no free sag is good, I just did it to improve ground clearance.
-
These people also ride thousands of miles with no issues... who needs engineers?
http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/main.asp?webtag=DarkSiding&nav=start&prettyurl=%2FDarkSiding%2Fstart (http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/main.asp?webtag=DarkSiding&nav=start&prettyurl=%2FDarkSiding%2Fstart)
(http://i462.photobucket.com/albums/qq349/Beermand/100_5475-1.jpg)
-
I do not see the point of having 10mm, also the lean angle you need to reach them will be crazy, no way the bike can lean so much, you will be scratching the frame first... better put the proper rim.
I did not say that almost no free sag is good, I just did it to improve ground clearance.
gawd sakes. The whole point is that you have tyre left, no point getting to the edges all the time. You have a lot to learn, I assume you are young? Please tell me you are young? :lol
To achieve clearance you can lift the back and front, add rearsets, lift the pipe and link pipe but what you do want is NOT to run off the edge of the tyre, that's why racers hang off :eek
-
These people also ride thousands of miles with no issues... who needs engineers?
[url]http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/main.asp?webtag=DarkSiding&nav=start&prettyurl=%2FDarkSiding%2Fstart[/url] ([url]http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/main.asp?webtag=DarkSiding&nav=start&prettyurl=%2FDarkSiding%2Fstart[/url])
I'm very aware of the iron butters but their riding is somewhat different to what you are trying to achieve. Where there is a will there is a way.
I assume ALL of your bike is the way Yamaha intended? As this is how it was designed it must be the only SAFE and PROPER way? More than one way to skin a cat. I wish you luck in your quest :D
-
As I told you I did change the front wheel and I am going to change the rear tyre size, so my bike is not like Yamaha intended. But tyre brands say it is fine. Also do motorcycle mechanics books, FG Gubellini suspension, Hel brake lines, and so on. Which engineer told you the 120-3" is right?
-
As I told you I did change the front wheel and I am going to change the rear tyre size, so my bike is not like Yamaha intended. But tyre brands say it is fine. Also do motorcycle mechanics books, FG Gubellini suspension, Hel brake lines, and so on. Which engineer told you the 120-3" is right?
that'll be me, I'm an engineer. Not ideal maybe but better than a 110 for my riding. The point I was nearly making is why are you so adamant this is not good when you are changing many other things that Yamaha will tell you isn't good. They will tell you ONLY use genuine parts for their bikes, you aren't nor am I, because other stuff works. Honda would have a fit if they read the list of mods on my Bird. :lol
-
All right. Lets stop it. I think my English is not good enough yet...
-
All right. Lets stop it. I think my English is not good enough yet...
but it's been fun. Yours is better than most, believe me.
-
Fair enough but still your using a 3.5" tyre on a 3" rim so at best its not got the profile that Bridgestone Michelin etc intended.
10mm different, 5mm per side. 4,33" as opposed to 4,72" nominally. Fits quite happily on there and means that you still have tread when the rear runs out, I ride on the front so it's good for me. I expect fitting the occasional 190 on the rear of my other bike instead of the 180 is dodgy too :rollin The profile is slightly pulled but so what, not excessive, not dangerous, helps handling, more rubber on road too. Get a grip for pitys sake. I suppose my Renthalls, bar end mirrors, fazer 1000 rear caliper, disc of a thundercat, screen bolts, perch bolts and so on aren't good as Yamaha didn't fit them, goodness knows about the blue flame and stainless downpipes, and oh god the main stand isn't fitted and the rear is jacked up too. It's a hanging for sure :evil
Hang on i'm not saying if you modify your bike you'll be killed to death horribly or anything just saying the profiles not whats intended. I used a 140 instead of 130 rear on my cb500 because it's all sticky and cheap used Bt090's come in. Oh and my Nitron shock, zx6rm/c, K tech fork springs, goldspots aren't what Yamaha put on, neither are the clip on's or Jap rearsets that are on the way....
-
Hang on i'm not saying if you modify your bike you'll be killed to death horribly or anything just saying the profiles not whats intended. I used a 140 instead of 130 rear on my cb500 because it's all sticky and cheap used Bt090's come in. Oh and my Nitron shock, zx6rm/c, K tech fork springs, goldspots aren't what Yamaha put on, neither are the clip on's or Jap rearsets that are on the way....
Oh I know that but the implication is you can pick and choose which parts you feel are for the better and which parts for the worse and while in the best of intentions, poor advice is worse than no advice at the end of the day.
-
It's not poor advice it's a statement of fact. 120 tyre on a 110 rim changes it's profile.
-
It's not poor advice it's a statement of fact. 120 tyre on a 110 rim changes it's profile.
yes it does a little, so what? It's not dangerous. Any different size tyre that standard will pull or push the profile a little depending on the make of tyre too. The implication from some is that it's dangerous to fit the 120 on the standard rim and it just is not.
-
Lumpy i think your thinking is way out riders do not hang off their bikes to save tyres never never ever....
-
wow this is getting deep so some say you can and some say not :eek
-
wow this is getting deep so some say you can and some say not :eek
I think that just lumpy says you can...
-
An experienced guy I trust encouraged me to fit 120 tyre up front. They are a lot easier to find in Serbia. I didn't listen to him. Couldn't forgive myself if anything happened in a corner with such a tyre. That thundercat 400 fron whole wheel exchange looks tempting though! :)
-
Lumpy i think your thinking is way out riders do not hang off their bikes to save tyres never never ever....
and nor did I say or infer that. Not a politician are you? Racers hang off so more of the tyre is on the road / track and keeping the bike more upright due to the slip angles and lateral forces involved etc. , they don't ride to the edges if they can help it. One of the replies earlier stated that having 10mm of rubber left is pointless, hence the analogy. Hope this clears thing up on that one.
-
120/70 front & 180/55 back for 2,5 years with no problems.
VERY steady in highway with 160-180 km but a little slow for turning (i dont push it to the edge).
I dont know the difference with 110 front - 160 back because i bought the bike with these tyres.
Sorry for my bad english
-
Sorry for my bad english
nothing wrong with your English and much more intelligent than most of the replies.
-
Sorry for my bad english
nothing wrong with your English and much more intelligent than most of the replies.
2.5 years with the same tyres he got the bike?! He must be riding to the edge, really feeling it! :)
-
Sorry for my bad english
nothing wrong with your English and much more intelligent than most of the replies.
2.5 years with the same tyres he got the bike?! He must be riding to the edge, really feeling it! :)
I thought he meant the same configuaration not the same tyres, there again, my tyres on the Bird seem to last rather a long time under that bike cover :rollin
-
The correct move is to put a wheel from FZR400RR which is identical to the FZS600 and behind a wheel of YZF1000TUNDERACE and so you can enjoy a much better grip.
That way they can find and widest range of tires 120 and 180.
-
The correct move is to put a wheel from FZR400RR which is identical to the FZS600 and behind a wheel of YZF1000TUNDERACE and so you can enjoy a much better grip.
That way they can find and widest range of tires 120 and 180.
FAF. If it's identical what is the point :rollin :evil although it's not identical is it ;)
Why much better grip though, if the compound is the same the grip will be the same.
-
The dimensions of these wheels is 3.50CH17 and 5.5CH17 while the fzs600 is 3.00CH17 5.00CH17 and thus not sit well the 120 and 180 joints.
I had for 5 years and led them in the street and truck days ...... really can believe me that the difference was great.
-
The correct move is to put a wheel from FZR400RR which is identical to the FZS600
So you have tried it? Great! :)
Does the speedo fit spot on?
Bearings, axle? Can I use them from FZS, or I have to get FZR400 axle and bearings?
160 rear is common, but 110 is a bit harder to find, so I'd look for front wheel swap.
-
I expect it may have been but as mine is a commuter with occasional big bike chasing, I'm content with what I have. Not keen on the 023s though still prefer the Dunplops Roadsmarts wet and dry.
-
The correct move is to put a wheel from FZR400RR which is identical to the FZS600
So you have tried it? Great! :)
Does the speedo fit spot on?
Bearings, axle? Can I use them from FZS, or I have to get FZR400 axle and bearings?
160 rear is common, but 110 is a bit harder to find, so I'd look for front wheel swap.
Yes all the same for the front wheel. Only difference is in rear wheel and you have to made two adapters to use the axis of the FZS.
-
I expect it may have been but as mine is a commuter with occasional big bike chasing, I'm content with what I have. Not keen on the 023s though still prefer the Dunplops Roadsmarts wet and dry.
The problem existed in Greece, where I can not find 110 front rubber and so began to Looking How can I correct a 120.
-
The correct move is to put a wheel from FZR400RR which is identical to the FZS600
So you have tried it? Great! :)
Does the speedo fit spot on?
Bearings, axle? Can I use them from FZS, or I have to get FZR400 axle and bearings?
160 rear is common, but 110 is a bit harder to find, so I'd look for front wheel swap.
Yes all the same for the front wheel. Only difference is in rear wheel and you have to made two adapters to use the axis of the FZS.
Can you describe the adapters and what model the Thunderace's rim is?
I put recently a 3.5 rim from a TRX850, same model as the FZR (F-52).
Thanks
-
Excuse me my fried but I've sold the rims. But remember that the bearings of the YZF is 28 mm thickness and FZS 20mm. So I made adapters with external diameter 28 and 20 hole like that of the photo.
The model is 2000 YZF 1000 THUNDERACE
-
Thanks!
-
Thanks!
I have a feeling there will be a hell machine made soon.
DO NOT try to race with black fazers in Spain this summer! :)
-
Thanks!
I have a feeling there will be a hell machine made soon.
DO NOT try to race with black fazers in Spain this summer! :)
:lol
By the way I have to open a new thread about another mod!
-
Excuse me my fried but I've sold the rims. But remember that the bearings of the YZF is 28 mm thickness and FZS 20mm. So I made adapters with external diameter 28 and 20 hole like that of the photo.
The model is 2000 YZF 1000 THUNDERACE
I think I have found bearings that would fit without the need of adapters:
Thunderace: 25 (inner)x52 (outer) x15 (thickness)
Fazer: 20x47x14
Conversion: 20x52x15 -This measurement is easy to find, so putting that rim would be an easy job (If I am not wrong)
http://www.gear4bikes.com/acatalog/Yamaha_Rear_Wheel_Bearings1.html (http://www.gear4bikes.com/acatalog/Yamaha_Rear_Wheel_Bearings1.html)
By the way the YZF750R fits the same rim.
-
Excuse me my fried but I've sold the rims. But remember that the bearings of the YZF is 28 mm thickness and FZS 20mm. So I made adapters with external diameter 28 and 20 hole like that of the photo.
The model is 2000 YZF 1000 THUNDERACE
I think I have found bearings that would fit without the need of adapters:
Thunderace: 25 (inner)x52 (outer) x15 (thickness)
Fazer: 20x47x14
Conversion: 20x52x15 -This measurement is easy to find, so putting that rim would be an easy job (If I am not wrong)
[url]http://www.gear4bikes.com/acatalog/Yamaha_Rear_Wheel_Bearings1.html[/url] ([url]http://www.gear4bikes.com/acatalog/Yamaha_Rear_Wheel_Bearings1.html[/url])
By the way the YZF750R fits the same rim.
The 28-20 is for rear wheel ... :) :)
-
Just incase it's of use to anyone FZR4003TJ front wheel fits straight in the Fzs.
-
Excuse me my fried but I've sold the rims. But remember that the bearings of the YZF is 28 mm thickness and FZS 20mm. So I made adapters with external diameter 28 and 20 hole like that of the photo.
The model is 2000 YZF 1000 THUNDERACE
I think I have found bearings that would fit without the need of adapters:
Thunderace: 25 (inner)x52 (outer) x15 (thickness)
Fazer: 20x47x14
Conversion: 20x52x15 -This measurement is easy to find, so putting that rim would be an easy job (If I am not wrong)
[url]http://www.gear4bikes.com/acatalog/Yamaha_Rear_Wheel_Bearings1.html[/url] ([url]http://www.gear4bikes.com/acatalog/Yamaha_Rear_Wheel_Bearings1.html[/url])
By the way the YZF750R fits the same rim.
The 28-20 is for rear wheel ... :) :)
I know, I was talking about the rear. I do not know why there are a 3mm difference between your measures and the ones from the shop.
I do not think I will do this, I will try the 170 rear first.