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Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: fazersharp on 10 November 2013, 10:44:33 pm
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So looks like I will be doing this on Tuesday and while I am under the tank I will replacing the air filter which I already have - Yam OEM. Any last pointers/words of wisdom /dos/don'ts/don't forget/make sure that etc. I will first be using Holts speed flush and then will be replacing with Halfords OAT Ready Mixed Antifreeze 2 Litres (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_185166_langId_-1_categoryId_255224#tab3)Haynes says 1.95L needed so hopefully this will do the job. Do I need a new washer on the drain bolt
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I didnt replace my drain bolt & it hasnt leaked.
I just followed the procedure in the haynes manual & all was good.
The coolant will piss out at a higher rate than youd imagine, be prepared.
Remember to turn the fuel tap back on before you put the tank back down again.
Remember to check the coolant overflow resorvoir is at the righht level, it is a ballache to try emptying this resorvoir as the pipe is hard to get to underneath to disconnect it...i sooked it out with a device.some people do t replace the coolant in this tank.
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Thank for the tips
I have a 50mm sryinge and length of tube to getinto the resorvoir ---but dosent that empty out with the rest through the 1 bolt, or are you saying that it will fill as I fill the rad
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Thank for the tips
I have a 50mm sryinge and length of tube to getinto the resorvoir ---but dosent that empty out with the rest through the 1 bolt, or are you saying that it will fill as I fill the rad
No,it is seperate....some crazy science...not entirely sure how it works but when the system boils up then the excess goes into the tank or something but i do know tht you need the tank to be filled up to the level for the system to work properly.good call using the syringe.right at the end after youve filled up all the coolant & done all your shaking the bike back and forth and topping up etc then top up directly into the plastic expansion tank up to its level marked on the bottle.
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Ok. Do I have to fully remove the tank or can I get away with just hinging and proping up. I am also replacing the air filter
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Did mine yesterday and did as noggy with washer/seal. I bought 15L of Halfords distilled water. Empted the coolant out, added flush and water then ran for 10min idling my fan kicked in. Then left to cool for 10 min.
I left the radiator filler cap on and took out drain bolt. If system is air tight no or little fluid will flow out until the filler cap is off. If alone place tub at a distance to collect coolant. If you have a mate I gave him funnel to put into bottle to catch fluid. After all was out and water went clear I simply flusher the rad with rest of water.
While on centre stand and after adding new coolant run the bike in first. Put bike onto wheels and rock back and forth and lean side to side. Back onto stand check coolant level.
Daz
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Ok. Do I have to fully remove the tank or can I get away with just hinging and proping up. I am also replacing the air filter
No need to remove tank compleatly
Daz
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Ok. Do I have to fully remove the tank or can I get away with just hinging and proping up. I am also replacing the air filter
Air filter is tank off.
You will need fuel to warm the engine for the Radflush to work, unless you just take the bike for a spin instead.
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Ok. Do I have to fully remove the tank or can I get away with just hinging and proping up. I am also replacing the air filter
No need to remove tank compleatly
Daz
I think you can get away with changing the air filter on the later bikes without removing the tank, but on earlier bikes you need to take it off for access.
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Ok. Do I have to fully remove the tank or can I get away with just hinging and proping up. I am also replacing the air filter
Air filter is tank off.
You will need fuel to warm the engine for the Radflush to work, unless you just take the bike for a spin instead.
I did not take the tank off for air filter but had to remove side pannels for access to two nipples that the rubber water cover is secured by. Noggy do I need to worry about something.
Daz
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Foxeye prob different then, i remember having my tank off & the filter going in from the top down, i doubt i could have managed it with the tank still on...well maybe with it propped up but i would no doubt keep knocking it off its prop & making a mess, tank off gave me more room.
Forgot i didnt do any proper rad flush...but i did fire the garden hose down the filler spout on full blast until the water coming out the drain hole ran clear..which in my case didnt take long.
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Great help everyone
Eairler bike being a 98 so tank off for air filter, but will have a look see when im at the hinge point. will do the air filter first and then tank back hinged up and do cooent next, I have 5 litres of distilled water for the holts speed flush and following plain water flush. 2.5 ltr for each
Might chuck a load of tap water down and then rinse with the last 2.5ltr distilled water (cause im anal)
When im doing the speed flush do I need to fill up the resorvior with it also
And does the 1.95ltr cap as read in the haynes include the resorvior amount as it dosent seem much
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Great help everyone
Eairler bike being a 98 so tank off for air filter, but will have a look see when im at the hinge point. will do the air filter first and then tank back hinged up and do cooent next, I have 5 litres of distilled water for the holts speed flush and following plain water flush. 2.5 ltr for each
Might chuck a load of tap water down and then rinse with the last 2.5ltr distilled water (cause im anal)
When im doing the speed flush do I need to fill up the resorvior with it also
And does the 1.95ltr cap as read in the haynes include the resorvior amount as it dosent seem much
You're going to rinse water with water? :)
The book says you can use soft tap water anyway if you mix your own coolant, so if you're gonna use a premixed coolant after flushing then using tap water with the Radflush is absolutely fine.
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Great help everyone
Eairler bike being a 98 so tank off for air filter, but will have a look see when im at the hinge point. will do the air filter first and then tank back hinged up and do cooent next, I have 5 litres of distilled water for the holts speed flush and following plain water flush. 2.5 ltr for each
Might chuck a load of tap water down and then rinse with the last 2.5ltr distilled water (cause im anal)
When im doing the speed flush do I need to fill up the resorvior with it also
And does the 1.95ltr cap as read in the haynes include the resorvior amount as it dosent seem much
....well i recon you best dilutin the water first?...with water..that way your saving water!!specialy if your on a water meter!! :rolleyes
You're going to rinse water with water? :)
The book says you can use soft tap water anyway if you mix your own coolant, so if you're gonna use a premixed coolant after flushing then using tap water with the Radflush is absolutely fine.
well i recon you should dilute the water first" with water!!..that way your saving water!!..specialy if your on a water meter?
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Great help everyone
Eairler bike being a 98 so tank off for air filter, but will have a look see when im at the hinge point. will do the air filter first and then tank back hinged up and do cooent next, I have 5 litres of distilled water for the holts speed flush and following plain water flush. 2.5 ltr for each
Might chuck a load of tap water down and then rinse with the last 2.5ltr distilled water (cause im anal)
When im doing the speed flush do I need to fill up the resorvior with it also
And does the 1.95ltr cap as read in the haynes include the resorvior amount as it dosent seem much
....well i recon you best dilutin the water first?...with water..that way your saving water!!specialy if your on a water meter!! :rolleyes
You're going to rinse water with water? :)
The book says you can use soft tap water anyway if you mix your own coolant, so if you're gonna use a premixed coolant after flushing then using tap water with the Radflush is absolutely fine.
well i recon you should dilute the water first" with water!!..that way your saving water!!..specialy if your on a water meter?
Diluting the water, why didn't i think of that?
Don't dilute it too much though otherwise it will become runny. :lol
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You mis-read what I said --------or rather didnt read that I said "I was anal"
Holts rad flush and empty
Push through with tap water
Then rinse the tap water away with De-ionised water (cause im anal remember :rolleyes )
Then new coolant
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Be careful. adding water to water can cause an internal vortex in your rad!
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Keep diluting the water with water until you get a homeopathic rad flush :rolleyes
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just tried diluting cold water with hot water?...and it luked warm to me? :rolleyes
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Keep em coming and I will be announcing a winner this evening
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Keep em coming and I will be announcing a winner this evening
This evening! We'll be lucky if we last that long after your recklessness. Everyone knows black holes are started from the combination of ionised and de-ionised water. It's basic physics man! How do you think they found that higgs boson. Was in a fazer rad the whole time!
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If you read the post again there's 2 nipples, black holes and a lot of anal going on.
You lot need your mouth's washing out with soap and de-ionised water :rollin :rollin :rollin
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Only did mine 3 weeks ago, stopped for a laugh and a pic during it
(http://i.imgur.com/fFPFZQX.jpg)
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Only did mine 3 weeks ago, stopped for a laugh and a pic during it
:rollin
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Are we sure that it only needs 2ltr as there looks like loads in that bucket or have you got the hose in the filler
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Are we sure that it only needs 2ltr as there looks like loads in that bucket or have you got the hose in the filler
Its the mix of ionised and de-ionised water. The ions are reacting to give it a more watery look
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Are we sure that it only needs 2ltr as there looks like loads in that bucket or have you got the hose in the filler
You definitely won't need more than 2 litres.
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Are we sure that it only needs 2ltr as there looks like loads in that bucket or have you got the hose in the filler
You definitely won't need more than 2 litres.
....hang on a minute there darrsi?....he might need more than 2ltrs if he forgets to put the drain plug bk in?..ide get 3 ltrs to be on safe side meself ;) .....
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The winner will be announced at 9pm
Thanks all for the help too 2ltrs it is then thanks
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And the winner is----------------------------
just tried diluting cold water with hot water?...and it luked warm to me? :rolleyes
Well done :rollin
Now inorder for me to send you your prize I just need your credit card number valid from and too date and the 3 didgit code on the back
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Literally changed mine yesterday. Good job I did.... Only had about 250ml in!
Good job I found the leak when i did :)
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So where was the leak
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wow! thanks fazersharp :D ....ile have to pm you my details though mate" dont want every fkr on here knowing me buisiness ;)
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Ok done it.
A few notes - the on line pdf manual says that the total amount of coolant is 1.95 and the reservoir has a o.61 capacity = 1.34 in the rad an other bits
I think that the reservoir capacity must be the total volume as I put in 250ml from empty to the max line which would mean ther is an extra 360ml of space - but looking at the tank I dont feel there is not that space left.
I had 2ltrs of ready mixed coolant and put 250 in the res and I have 450 left over in the bottle which means I put in 1.3ltr in the rad filler neck which gives a total system capacity of 1,550 ml - now add that 360ml that the pdf says the res holds extra over the 250 I put in then you get 1,910ml which leaves an extra 85ml for system areas that draining dosent drain.
So the upshot is I have 450ml left over from 2ltr after fill the res to the max line is that right.
A thing I did was to put the drain plug in at only hand tight during the radflush so (in my mind ) to keep some crush-ability left in the washer for the proper fill.
Here is some fazer pissing photos inspired by redhunter.
OH and by the way that 2 year life blue stuff has been in about 10years
And the max fill line pink new stuff with the extra space
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As long as it's filled up to the radiator cap, and also the level in the expansion tank, then all is good, don't worry about measurements!
Occasionally having a look at the expansion tank level when the bike is cold can tell you whether the system is healthy or not.
Basically that level should hardly ever change if all is well, you MAY have to give it a tiny top up occasionally but that could be months apart if the system is clean, airtight and flowing properly, and any top up should be minimal.
If you get overflowing from the expansion tank (whilst boiling), you notice it's low or empty, or the fan unusually starts kicking in (quite rare) then you need to investigate, which will probably just be scaled up waterways, and then you're back to the Radflush again.
I've always been a fan of leaving Radflush in for a couple of days so that the engine heats up and cools down a few times, but you need mild weather, not too hot or cold for obvious reasons, and you wouldn't want to do any long runs on the bike either.
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Ok cheers!!
That reminds me I left it running with radflush for at least 15 mins- mabe 20 and still the fan didnt come on. so I gave up. If the fan isnt working should I be worried
The fan has never come on in normal riding but I dont sit in traffic either.
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Ok cheers!!
That reminds me I left it running with radflush for at least 15 mins- mabe 20 and still the fan didnt come on. so I gave up. If the fan isnt working should I be worried
The fan has never come on in normal riding but I dont sit in traffic either.
I've heard mine come on a few times in hot weather when sitting still, but there are many on this forum who have never ever heard theirs kick in before!
They tend to cope with heat quite well.
The fan on my previous bike was much more sensitive and would kick in all the time, but that's what they're meant to do so it's no big deal, unless your system is clogged up, then it "may" come on more often, but more than likely it'll just dump coolant out of the overflow pipe on the expansion tank.
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Ive often thought that a rad cover would reduce the air to the rad (I dont have one)
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Ive often thought that a rad cover would reduce the air to the rad (I dont have one)
I've got one, never had any issues.
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Ive often thought that a rad cover would reduce the air to the rad (I dont have one)
I've got one, never had any issues.
Not an issue but
I've heard mine come on a few times
By the way not trying to have a dig ---thank you for your help and wisdom
I would have a guess that the only people to have had the fan come on while riding are those with a rad cover ??
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Ive often thought that a rad cover would reduce the air to the rad (I dont have one)
I've got one, never had any issues.
Not an issue but
I've heard mine come on a few times
By the way not trying to have a dig ---thank you for your help and wisdom
I would have a guess that the only people to have had the fan come on while riding are those with a rad cover ??
No not at all, because it makes no difference whatsoever when the bike is sitting still?
They have holes in anyway.
Fans are there to draw away the heat, it wouldn't bother me if mine came on frequently, hence the reason i've hot wired my laptop cooling fan to be permanently on, because they do a good job!
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My thinking is that they are reducing the flow of air (even with the holes) so that when you come to the stand still that (non cover people also have) yours comes on and not theirs.
But as you say it comes on and it dose its job so no worries, although it does run off the battery dosent it - so if you have any battery issues ---maybe
I did not know that it draws air rather than blowing air though ---is that the same for cars. I spose that if it were blowing then it would be drawing hot air from the direction of the engine
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My thinking is that they are reducing the flow of air (even with the holes) so that when you come to the stand still that (non cover people also have) yours comes on and not theirs.
But as you say it comes on and it dose its job so no worries, although it does run off the battery dosent it - so if you have any battery issues ---maybe
I did not know that it draws air rather than blowing air though ---is that the same for cars. I spose that if it were blowing then it would be drawing hot air from the direction of the engine
You certainly are the pessimist aren't you..........stop thinking so much, it's really not doing you any good. :lol
If you have battery issues, then, get your battery issues fixed or replace the battery?
How d'ya think air cooled only bikes survive?
At least we have coolant circulating and a fan to cool down the engine when the bike's not moving, so we're actually rather spoiled, and as i said earlier if the system is unblocked and fully functioning as it always should be then you won't have any problems.
You must remember that radiator grills aren't just added to look poncey, they are there to protect your radiator from stone damage, and they work 100% well in doing so.
You wouldn't wait in a queue jogging on the spot because it won't take very long before you're gonna overheat, so if you think the bike's ever gonna be sitting still for more than 10 minutes at a time, especially during hot weather, then the simple solution is to just turn the engine off (or stand still)........sorted! :)
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Yeh you are right about me thinking so much. Im gonna let it go thank you.
NOW where is that thread about aftermarket rad covers because I want one !
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You should start up the engine and rev it up a bit or better yet go for a spin to get the air to the top of the system. Then check the coolant level again at the cap. Let the bike cool down before you take the cap off or you'll get a face full of boiling coolant
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Just been out today and will have another look sometime soon
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Had another look today and got another 20ml in it (rad neck) and thats it now.
All the shaking bouncing rocking and running on the spot that you do is no comparison to going out for a proper ride to get those air bubbles to the top
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Bump for you
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Bump for you
Many thanks :D
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When I changed mine I couldn't find the drain bolts on the engine block (???) or something. I forget what Hayne's said, but I did the bottom bolt, and found the reservoir, but couldn't find the other thing it said to drain.
If anyone has some info (and a handy pic) on this I'd appreciate it for next time.
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It wont flow out the drain hole UNTIL you remove the rad filler cap under tank!! :lol
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It wont flow out the drain hole UNTIL you remove the rad filler cap under tank!! :lol
That said, I remove the drain bolt prior to removing the filler cap. If there are any leaks the fluid should trickle out. If the fluid doesn't budge then the system is air tight
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Just take the lowest hose off and sorted. You'll get a bit more out too because the hose is lower than the the drain bolt.
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I think its only the yzf which has drain on cylinder
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How many blokes does it take to undo a bolt? :lol
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No need to take off the hose and there is no engine drain bolts just 1 bolt on the pump thats it.
cap on blolt out, bucket under- cap off ---take a pissing photo - kick bucket closer to bike as pressure drops.
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Or just punch a hole in the rad with a flathead screwdriver it'll soon drain out. better yet kick the rad off then you don't even need the screwdriver :lol
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Or just punch a hole in the rad with a flathead screwdriver it'll soon drain out. better yet kick the rad off then you don't even need the screwdriver :lol
...yep?....with the dude on this one!! ;) ...but watch you dont damage the fan when you kick the rad off" :rolleyes .....
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I think its only the yzf which has drain on cylinder
Which will explain why I spent 30 minutes looking for something that wasn't there.....