Author Topic: rear type puncture...wot to do.... (Read 5778 times)

anutz · « **on:** 22 January 2016, 04:41:22 am »

So, took the FZS600 and GSXR750 out on Tuesday for a ride around, first time for a while, all went well with the FZS600, on the GSXR, i got a rear tyre puncture on some fast country roads, on the brow of a hill.....so ended up pushing the bike 100m to nearest farmhouse to get into their drive and out of danger....just frozen and waiting for recovery truck...

reason i post is the title....

its my first ever puncture whilst riding, i noticed that the road felt bumpy, and then the bars began to slowly move from side to side, thats when i back off on the gas and slowly came to a stop, but i must have gone a fair distance with a deflating tyre, thankfully the people driving behind me were sensible and slowed with me, and stopped to see if i had a phone etc, which i did so off they went...also some other people who saw me stood stopped and checked all was well, so thanks to them

but, how should you handle a rear tyre puncture when it happens while riding, any do's or don'ts i.e. not to use rear brake for example at all?

anutz

darrsi · « **Reply #1 on:** 22 January 2016, 05:22:46 am »

I had one at speed on the A2 many years ago, it's not something to take lightly as i never heard any pop or anything due to traffic noise and concentration but i certainly won't forget the manic rear wobble that followed, a kind of very quick fishtailing feeling.

I think the trick is to slow down firmly but gently using the front brake only, and roll off the throttle to let the engine braking help out as well.
If you touch the rear brake the rear end will dive downwards, so the outcome then would depend on how deflated the tyre was, but if properly flat could result in the tyre being forced over the rim which could then all get a bit messy.
This all applies to being in a straight line and upright of course, if you're on a bend then prepare for take off.

Frosties · « **Reply #2 on:** 22 January 2016, 07:12:23 am »

Quote from: darrsi on 22 January 2016, 05:22:46 am

I had one at speed on the A2 many years ago, it's not something to take lightly as i never heard any pop or anything due to traffic noise and concentration but i certainly won't forget the manic rear wobble that followed, a kind of very quick fishtailing feeling.

I think the trick is to slow down firmly but gently using the front brake only, and roll off the throttle to let the engine braking help out as well.
If you touch the rear brake the rear end will dive downwards, so the outcome then would depend on how deflated the tyre was, but if properly flat could result in the tyre being forced over the rim which could then all get a bit messy.
This all applies to being in a straight line and upright of course, if you're on a bend then prepare for take off.

Last rear puncture (some years back now) was very similar to both of you and only noticed for similar reasons of concentration, noise etc. Only difference I did to Darrsi was that I pulled the clutch in......can't explain why I did, but it all ended up nicely at side of M3. Never had a total blow out so can't offer any advice there fella - someone will be along soon with a complete and utter horror story of binning it.

BBROWN1664 · « **Reply #3 on:** 22 January 2016, 08:10:05 am »

If the rear is flat, pulling the clutch in is a good thing. You don't want to use any sort of braking on that wheel as traction is compromised and may give undesirable results.

Front brake only, slow down slowly and get to the side of the road as your rolling still.

darrsi · « **Reply #4 on:** 22 January 2016, 10:56:43 am »

I remember waiting by the roadside for the recovery vehicle and this other bike went into a 20 metre rear wheel skid and I was thinking I'm about to witness something horrible.
But he stopped further past me, then ran back to me and asked if I needed any help?
What a thoroughly considerate chap.

anutz · « **Reply #5 on:** 22 January 2016, 11:43:30 am »

i would have been eager to stop and help so would probably have done the same lol....

i was terrified when it happened, not so much the actual wobbling but being stuck on a blind bend on the wrong side - so glad could push the bike to a drive way of a farm house, i was going to have to put it into the grass verge and just leave it while i went to safety, as it was getting dark and i would have caused an accident, but the stand key sinking in so i could not, so one thing i now have under BOTH bike seats is a piece of plastic so i can stop the side stand digging in and the bike falling over when its on grass.....unless i can get to a drive way!

Frosties · « **Reply #6 on:** 22 January 2016, 11:53:52 am »

http://craftyplugger.com/epages/e2d40bde-4731-461b-b4a5-1f416fe5929b.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/e2d40bde-4731-461b-b4a5-1f416fe5929b/Categories

fazersharp · « **Reply #7 on:** 22 January 2016, 11:58:39 am »

Sounds like you did the right things but if you can push it at 1mph why cant you ride it a 5 mph - lights on hazards on if you have them and out of danger sooner and in more control than pushing

BBROWN1664 · « **Reply #8 on:** 22 January 2016, 12:30:09 pm »

Extra weight on the bike will completely fec the tyre by riding it especially with the torque of the engine trying to pull the rubber off the rim.
Pushing it is far safer.

anutz · « **Reply #9 on:** 22 January 2016, 01:53:51 pm »

fazersharp · « **Reply #10 on:** 22 January 2016, 02:15:35 pm »

Would it matter if you fecked the trye as its fecked anyway with a hole in it and surly pushing it would also damage it.
If you push slow 1mph then its spending a long time on each part as it gos around putting a lot of stress on it but if you are riding at 5 or 10 taking it is taking the weight off the tire.
Pus a wheel barrow slowly with a flat and its hard work but push it faster and it is less so, the tyre doesn't have time to squash down ----Discus

Punkstig · « **Reply #11 on:** 22 January 2016, 03:15:15 pm »

Biggest thing not to do is ride it!
If it's only a nail/screw then it's not fucked and easily repaired!

anutz · « **Reply #12 on:** 22 January 2016, 04:02:34 pm »

i will get a pic of mine when i pick the new fitted tyre up, its got a nice 2 cm gash in it, no idea what from!

His Dudeness · « **Reply #13 on:** 22 January 2016, 04:56:13 pm »

I've lost count of the number of punctures I've had. I carry cheap plugs and a small bicycle pump. Does the job.

anutz · « **Reply #14 on:** 22 January 2016, 05:06:47 pm »

need to look at getting puncture kit, arent some tyres not supposed to be repaired?

fazersharp · « **Reply #15 on:** 22 January 2016, 05:26:29 pm »

Quote from: anutz on 22 January 2016, 05:06:47 pm

need to look at getting puncture kit, arent some tyres not supposed to be repaired?

Its more of a case of where the puncture is and the kits i would suggest are used to get you to a garage for a proper repair or new one

His Dudeness · « **Reply #16 on:** 22 January 2016, 05:38:02 pm »

I've always used that style of repair and they've always lasted the life of the tyre. I've even had two of those plugs in the one hole after I picked up the world's largest screw

but a patch from the inside is probably a better repair. I think the general rule is as long as the hole is fairly central you can repair it. If it's over at the edge of the tyre or in the side wall you can't repair it

fazersharp · « **Reply #17 on:** 22 January 2016, 05:47:40 pm »

I have a plug kit but think if I had to use it then it wouldn't be in a nice controlled manner or environment and would worry that I didnt do quite as a good job than if I was nice and warm in the light and inside where I would trust my repair a bit more.

tommyardin · « **Reply #18 on:** 22 January 2016, 07:27:27 pm »

I was down at Loomies cafe (Hampshire) one day the summer before last and a guy with a Honda (yeah I know but someones got to own one) had a Phillips headed screw in his back tyre. The screw head was in flush with the tread, he was about 30 odd miles home. A Guy named Chris had a BMW sports tourer had a plug repair kit with him and he repaired the Honda back tyre,it took him about 4 minutes to do. Chris had compressed air cartridges and an adapter to blown the tyre up, so the guy could get to the nearest filling station to fully inflate the tyre to the right pressure. I went out and bought one of the kits myself as I was so impressed with it.

I also fitted a waterproof cigarette type lighter (Great for the Sat Nav , Compressor, and charging my phone) in my Fazer fairing and bought a small air compressor. these all fit under my fazer saddle along with the standard tool kit and my disk lock and a pair of light weight water proof trousers.
Jobs a Gudun

tommyardin · « **Reply #19 on:** 22 January 2016, 07:37:05 pm »

The Stop & Go kit was quite expensive about £28-00 there are cheaper versions but they do not include the compressed air cartridges, a must if you on the road.
There are other makes that I have seen for considerably less on eBay but the tools included in the Stop & Go kit are of very high quality and will last for years, there is a mini Stanley knife included to cut off excess plug once its pulled tight into place, also a small piece of yellow foam to hold the cartridge while you inflate the tyre as the compressed air cartridge ices up.
A well worth wile investment, much better than a 30 mile push home.
If you get a puncture in any wheel whilst riding just shut the throttle slowly and cruise to a stand still if you chop the throttle or brake hard you will load the tyres and most likely throw the bike down the road. Don't Panic.

JZS 600 · « **Reply #20 on:** 22 January 2016, 08:25:00 pm »

+1 for the stop and go but I also have an Air Man 12v compressor on board after a front wheel puncture in France 160 miles from Calais...

We were in the Vosges Mountains when a rear puncture was repaired by a stop and go and it was faultless

fazersharp · « **Reply #21 on:** 22 January 2016, 08:51:18 pm »

I have had my kit - not stop and go, for about 8 maybe more years. Anyone know if those canisters last forever or eventually leak out -would be a bummer I i smugly tried to do it and had no gas

tommyardin · « **Reply #22 on:** 22 January 2016, 09:06:24 pm »

Hiya JZS, yes I was really impressed with the Stop & Go great quality tools included plus on eBay all the plugs and air cartridges are available to purchase reasonably.
Great result the little air comps take awhile to inflate a tyre but if you have no air at all in the tyre 10 to 12 minutes is cool time to wait. the good thing about the cartridges is that it shove air into the tyre quickly and a couple of then will pop the beads back onto the wheel.

tommyardin · « **Reply #23 on:** 22 January 2016, 09:08:39 pm »

good point Fazersharp, dunno might be wise to sling them and replace after 2 or 3 years
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NorthWestern · « **Reply #24 on:** 22 January 2016, 09:10:02 pm »

They last decades at least. I used to have a rc place with a motor powered with them, I found it in the attick a few years ago, must have been at least 25 years old and it run the engine up fine