Up the arse

I've got to admit that's stiff money even if the mileage is low but as I think has been previously mentioned a bike that sits unused for long periods could throw up problems and are those tyres OE ? thatll be an extra £200 for new boots then
However if you read through the modern classic bike mags ( practical sprtsbikes & classic motorcycle mechanics ) they all rate the 600 and have it as an "emerging classic" so 10 years from now it could be worth double that.
Not that I'd spend 3000 beer tokens on it but if you're a gambler looking to the invest some it might be worth a punt as SP paint scheme was only around a few years

Thanks guys, I wasn't thinking of drilling out the bushes just the snapped threads on the front plate that holds the cover on.
The pre loved valve that I got has good bushes and fits sweetly with the exup, it's only problem ( which is more of an inconvenience) is the front plate has 2 snapped bolt threads for the cover which is theoretically still useable but I decided i might as well get it done so thought I'd either drill them out or swap the bush over with my good but focced bush front plate, either way I've still got to replace the bush that's in the downpipes as mine is well focced.
Thanks to unfazed with the front plate bush removal tip fingers crossed I'll get it sorted this weekend 👍🏻

I decided to take the plunge and service my Exup and what a nightmare it's turned into 
i think the previous owner had decided to service it himself and possibly may have lost some of the components upon dis assembly and the decided to just bodge it back together, the only plus side to this saga is all the bolts came out easily. Firstly the pulley centre bolt had been replace with an Allen bolt which rubbed on the inside of the cover, then there was no washer but there was a spring which was half worn away, then there was no spacer at the rear instead just the worn remnants of a stepped washer and the bushes and valve worn very badly.
I managed to get a good used valve and front plate off the flea bay but the front plate has snapped cover bolts so I think my best bet is fit new bushes to my plate and downpipes but they look well tight in there. Is there any easy way to remove/replace the bushes or would it be easier to drill out the snapped cover bolts on the replacement which is a good fit with the exup valve then all I've got to do is replace the rear bush on the downpipes
I've attached a few pics to show what I found, the 1st one is what replaced the rear 3mm spacer

I had my carbs cleaned which turned into a saga that I won't bore you with here but after that and the (apparent) work done to correct the balls up ,I've noticed that every time I turn my ignition on (before starting) the fuels pump clicks away like it's filling the float bowls, sometimes it clicks a lot sometimes it's not many , on rare occasions it's none sometimes it clicks after I've left it for 10 mins after riding ,I don't recall noticing this previously except after bike sat for long periods, anyone else get this ?? Is this normal ?
I'll try and give a brief run down of some of the saga as it might be relevant, carbs cleaned but 1 day later it run rough, found all carb to head rubbers clips not on correct or loose and all carb to airbox rubbers loose , red sticky substance coming out of float bowl joins, had new chain and sprocks and asked garage about it ( not carb cleaning garage) they drained float bowls and found (apparently) black oily stuff from float bowls, run bettter after up to TT but not as before so thought I'd get garage in Heysham to look ( recommended by in laws who live there ) they tell me all float heights different and that needle valve springs are gone also air screws at 5 turns out  this makes me think maybe PO had fitted Ivan's kit himself as 5 turns is Ivan's setting ,plus float heights being all different sounds like someone had tried altering them badly, so I explain this to mechanic and he sets them all to 14mm ,keeps screws at 5 turns out and replaces needle valves. Bike runs better but now I notice I have this fuel pump clicking.

did your engine fan cut in when it started to warm up ? The oil is cooled at the oil cooler from engine coolant via the rad so the oil may have been getting too hot, further to that what's the level of your coolant and when was it last changed old coolant is less efficient , additionally how old is the oil? What's the oil level? Is it  low , spot on or high ? And is it of the correct grade, being a wet clutch I would say it's down to oil overheating somehow remember oil doesn't just lubricate it cools the engine as well and the older it is the less efficiently it does both,  I could be wrong but as you say it's fine when it cools down somethings causing the overheating.
BTW What's the UK motorcycle theft protest ???

Theres an article on spotting fake plugs
http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/fake/


They look worse than the iridium I took out of my 600 after it had been sat unused for 4 years outside
NGK not normally that bad , maybe as you say bad batch ?

Thanks ste, all I've got to do now is somehow get the bike 40 miles to burnham on sea now

Thanks Robbo and des , to be honest Robbo that's what I was hoping I'd done but alas it was not the case , tap deffo on, further to which now upon going back to it this morning after changing the oil yesterday, which when I left yesterday was just above the middle of the sight glass ( it's a cheap oil I was going to run through for a bit in case there was some fuel contamination then change again before taking it to Sparklight ) which has now completely covered the sight glass so some extra fluid has got in there somehow and using the sniff test my nose tells me that it's deffo fuel. So I'm not going to attempt to start it and now try and arrange for it to get to Sparklight for Monday and fingers crossed it's not done any damage.

as I'm sure you are aware I'm having some fuel issues, sorry for yet another post
After fitting air filter and changing oil , I put the tank back on and switch on ignition, the fuel pump clicks away priming the carbs, so after a stab of the starter it splutters to life and dies, fuel pump clicks away again 5 or so seconds roughly and stops , it does this every time either I stop pressing the starter or switch on the ignition, there's fuel in tank and no pipes are kinked, from that I'm guessing it's not a fuel into pump problem
I'm assuming that if there's fuel to the pump then it's not detecting pressure to stop itself and in effects thinks the carb bowls need fuel, i can't think its the solenoid and I've checked all connections and cleaned them , it's got  a datatool red alarm but I don't think it would cause this ?? I can't go back to it until tomorrow but It's off for a carb refurb next week if that's the cause of the problems but that's 40 miles from me, should I just put it back together and get it transported or would it do harm to try and start it

Thanks guys for the replies , it's actually booked in for a complete carb overhaul and clean at Sparklight on Monday 3rd, I thought I'd do oil and filters before it went so it's all fresh once it's done, interesting to see someone else had same question with K&N filter, I've cleaned it up and it's drying but I've put a standard air filter in for now I'll see about putting K&N back once carbs done, I've just drained oil out and considering it's 500 miles old it don't look good and don't smell "oily" more fueloily and not the same as my 600 ( neighbours think I'm a nutter now going round sniffing bike engines  )

Also Aftermarket springs are not always the exact same length as the original springs, if they are longer than the originals then the tube spacers needs to be cut down accordingly, if they are shorter you need to add 35 MM Penny washers to the top of the spring to make up that shortfall, remembering to place the solid disk washer type spacer at the top for pre-load contact.


Below is a link for the correct sized Penny Washers.  35 mm washers with a 12 mm hole


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181741976153?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=480688381162&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I looked up the Hagon and it says that if any spacers are required to fit correctly they are supplied, I assume although not seen them that hagons are longer but the box is bigger than the OE springs returned to me (thankfully I asked for them back !!) I have also been searching around the interweb and come across a post from years ago on here where someone points out that although Yamaha manual states there are 5 preload settings he's had 3 gen 1's and on all the those bikes the adjuster settings go to 4 and a half marks on the adjuster so all sounds normal on the preload.
Many thanks to Tefer who through a contact has got me a number of someone who is reputable near to me whom Im going to call soon and hopefully sort out these progressives or put back the OE Springs until I go to MTC for the linears at the end of May.