Author Topic: Replacing Chain (Read 3503 times)

Dead Eye · « **on:** 12 July 2013, 09:54:28 am »

Hi all, trying to replace the chain and I've hit a snag whereby the chain tool I bought is a load of crap... I can't get the pins to line up properly on the rivets to break the chain as they just slip when you apply any sort of pressure

Does anyone around the Chelmsford / Essex area happen to have a grinder / cutter / bolt breakers (or something) that I could borrow in exchange for beer tokens - need to get this work done ASAP to get the bike back in for an MOT retest without incurring further charges

red98 · « **Reply #1 on:** 12 July 2013, 10:17:13 am »

hi deadeye...ive got the tools you need but too bust to come over

.......take the swingarm out ,bit more work i know but would get the job done

Dead Eye · « **Reply #2 on:** 12 July 2013, 01:04:10 pm »

Looks like the bike is going to get a good service then... hoping to get started on this today and will probably give the swing arm a damn good clean whilst I'm at it

Any pitfalls or traps I should avoid?

darrsi · « **Reply #3 on:** 12 July 2013, 01:16:29 pm »

I was chatting to a mate about this yesterday, he suggested changing the bearings while it's all apart, but obviously that's your choice mate.

http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,72.msg236.html#msg236

JZS 600 · « **Reply #4 on:** 12 July 2013, 01:33:06 pm »

Last time I took a chain off without tools I filed the 2 pins on a link flat on one side and knocked the plate off with a hammer and screwdriver when it was on the back sprocket.

Worked for me!

Dead Eye · « **Reply #5 on:** 12 July 2013, 01:59:13 pm »

Quote from: darrsi on 12 July 2013, 01:16:29 pm

I was chatting to a mate about this yesterday, he suggested changing the bearings while it's all apart, but obviously that's your choice mate.

http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,72.msg236.html#msg236

This was something I had thought of in the back of my mind but it depends entirely on the cost of the bearings and the ease of the job

The priority is getting the MOT faults fixed which are the chain (and therefore sprockets) plus the front discs. The discs shouldn't be too much of a pain as they were recently removed - the old discs from my burnt bike were put on and have last a good 5 months so it was worth it

tony22 · « **Reply #6 on:** 12 July 2013, 02:27:22 pm »

I'm in Chelmsford.. and i have the tools you need if you still need help??

Dead Eye · « **Reply #7 on:** 12 July 2013, 02:28:34 pm »

Do you per chance have a chain riveter? I'm not entirely convinced mine is going to do a particularly good job

On the plus side, the swingarm is almost off...

tony22 · « **Reply #8 on:** 12 July 2013, 02:31:20 pm »

Quote from: Dead Eye on 12 July 2013, 02:28:34 pm

Do you per chance have a chain riveter? I'm not entirely convinced mine is going to do a particularly good job

On the plus side, the swingarm is almost off...

Yes I do and a grinder, more than happy to lend you a hand or the tools.

Dead Eye · « **Reply #9 on:** 12 July 2013, 02:33:15 pm »

That's awesome, ideally all I need to do is to get the chain riveted together and then I can put it on as an endless chain since the swingarm is basically nearly off (just need to remove the pivot)

I could bring the chain to you if that's easier and more convenient?

tony22 · « **Reply #10 on:** 12 July 2013, 02:37:22 pm »

I will be home from work about 5:45 so i can pickup the riveter and drop it round, also noticed you have a carbtune

... not touched my carbs for 60k, do you mind I borrow it?? Clutch basket is rattling on idle due to the carbs being out of sync

Dead Eye · « **Reply #11 on:** 12 July 2013, 02:38:52 pm »

Sounds good to me, you are welcome to borrow the Carbtune as well

I'll PM you my address

That certainly worked out well ^^

Foxwood · « **Reply #12 on:** 12 July 2013, 04:39:48 pm »

I dropped my swingarm last winter at 34 000km and the bearings were (not surprisingly) basically as good as new. So I doubt you'll need to change them, just give 'em a nice clean and lube. Though I will admit that if you've been riding in salty winter conditions, then it might be a hole other story. $:\$

Dead Eye · « **Reply #13 on:** 12 July 2013, 04:50:48 pm »

I haven't done much riding in bad weather but the bike has done 88,000 miles and I have no previous history :|

They weren't picked up on the MOT and I can't feel anything wrong so after looking at the process I think I'm going to leave them be for now

Kentish · « **Reply #14 on:** 13 July 2013, 11:38:02 pm »

Quote from: Dead Eye on 12 July 2013, 02:38:52 pm

Sounds good to me, you are welcome to borrow the Carbtune as well I'll PM you my address

That certainly worked out well ^^

What a nice man!

red98 · « **Reply #15 on:** 14 July 2013, 07:26:00 am »

great to see people helping one another

...hows this job going guys ?

Dead Eye · « **Reply #16 on:** 14 July 2013, 08:32:50 am »

I've heard from tony22 and his bike is running much smoother now which is great news

Mine is still awaiting some attention as I've ended up busy over the weekend but aiming to get it all sorted on Monday-Tuesday for an MOT retest later this week

Dead Eye · « **Reply #17 on:** 16 July 2013, 08:48:08 pm »

So had some fun with not being able to get the chain off nor the swingarm and ended up asking for the assistance of tony22 whom ground off the rivet heads and then finally managed to remove the old chain

So, new chain fitted, sprockets changed and rear wheel back on BUT I can't seem to get it to align correctly. The wheel is effectively pointing to the right hand side of the bike if looking at the wheel from the rear of the bike. There are about 5 adjustment marks before the washer on the left hand side and more like 8-10 on the right but I can't get the right side to move forward and line up equally. I tried some persuasion with a hammer, but it doesn't want to budge

I have made sure there is ample room for it move in regards to the adjusters.

I'll try and get some photos up to illustrate

tony22 · « **Reply #18 on:** 16 July 2013, 10:28:14 pm »

Quote from: Dead Eye on 16 July 2013, 08:48:08 pm

So had some fun with not being able to get the chain off nor the swingarm and ended up asking for the assistance of tony22 whom ground off the rivet heads and then finally managed to remove the old chain

So, new chain fitted, sprockets changed and rear wheel back on BUT I can't seem to get it to align correctly. The wheel is effectively pointing to the right hand side of the bike if looking at the wheel from the rear of the bike. There are about 5 adjustment marks before the washer on the left hand side and more like 8-10 on the right but I can't get the right side to move forward and line up equally. I tried some persuasion with a hammer, but it doesn't want to budge I have made sure there is ample room for it move in regards to the adjusters.

I'll try and get some photos up to illustrate

Let me know how you get on with it tomorrow, if you don't have any luck I can call in on my way home tomorrow and take a look. One thing to check is that you have the adjusters in the right way round.

Dead Eye · « **Reply #19 on:** 16 July 2013, 11:05:55 pm »

Ah, it is entirely possible that the adjusters are in the wrong way round

Can anyone verify which way they are supposed to be?

tony22 · « **Reply #20 on:** 17 July 2013, 07:39:29 am »

Quote from: Dead Eye on 16 July 2013, 11:05:55 pm

Ah, it is entirely possible that the adjusters are in the wrong way roundwon't Can anyone verify which way they are supposed to be?

The side with the flat bits if that makes sense goes on the wheel side, also make sure your rear caliper brace arm is loose or that side wont go back.

Dead Eye · « **Reply #21 on:** 17 July 2013, 09:37:58 am »

So this morning I got out in the garage before it gets too hot and success! Both adjusters were in the correct way already (thought they were) but I hadn't loosened the torque arm. Wheel is now correctly aligned and everything is reassembled bar the torque arm.

When I tried to tighten one of the bolts, it sheered the head off *sighs*

So its off to B&Q in a bit to buy a replacement. At least it isn't some sort of silly Japanese bolt that's practically impossible to find

simonm · « **Reply #22 on:** 17 July 2013, 10:14:40 am »

Maybe this diagram would help for posterity ? (Page 34 on PDF, page 33 on hardcopy)

http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=downfile&id=13

Dead Eye · « **Reply #23 on:** 17 July 2013, 10:16:53 am »

Nah its fine - I already have the parts catalog and normally I would probably buy the OEM part but I need it here for Friday AM before I have the retest for the MOT. So its quicker to just pop to B&Q to grab what I need and I'll probably end up with 10 for the same price as 1 plus shipping from online

simonm · « **Reply #24 on:** 17 July 2013, 10:25:54 am »

I meant for future reference, not relating to your situation