PTFE, wont compress enough, and if the threads are damaged it could be the straw the broke the camels back so to speak, it wont take the heat very well and start leaking.
also gnasher, your point about the weep will ineviably get worse is true, so i will look to permanently stop it up with some bonding agent etc once it gets to the point where it is worse.your other point about properly draining so that you are removing as much old oil as possible is also a very good point , which is exactly why you need to get as much out as possible, i definitley got 3.5 litres of old oil out, which is what the manual says oil & filetr 3.5 litres req . however a dry engine following rebuild takes 4.2 litres. this must mean then that you can never remove the remaining old 0.7 litres from any style of oil drain so there is always .7l of old oil kicking around in your engine stuck in places that it cannot drain back to the sump . no way to remove 100% of all oil without disembly.i think 3.5 is the max you can get out and just as long as thats what you can get out , this pump method is equal to a conventional drian. you cant drain anymore out than you can pump out.
Temperature Range: -450°F to +500°F (-268°C to +260°C). PTFE is completely stable up to +500˚F or +260˚C. Decomposition is slow up to 750°F or 400°C. Decomposition will occur on contact with open flames.
Quote from: fazersharp on 19 June 2020, 07:18:02 pmTemperature Range: -450°F to +500°F (-268°C to +260°C). PTFE is completely stable up to +500˚F or +260˚C. Decomposition is slow up to 750°F or 400°C. Decomposition will occur on contact with open flames.You crack on then mate, it's your choice, its you that's going to be sorting out the mess, when it comes to undoing it. [size=78%] [/size]
What mess.
Quote from: fazersharp on 20 June 2020, 09:32:25 amWhat mess.Put some on your drain bolt, ride around for 8k change the oil and you'll find out Mate, the advice I freely offer here is based on years of working on bike both as an owner and as a business, if you don't want to take it that's your choice. [size=78%] [/size]
Yes I appreciate your experience and that is why I am asking. What do you mean by mess.
Anybody wondering what different types of lubrication have on torque values have a look at this basic explanation https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html%23:~:text%3DDry%2520bolt%2520torque%2520is%2520approximately,or%2520628%2520lbf%2520ft.%26text%3DIf%2520the%2520bolt%2520is%2520lubricated,is%2520reduced%2520with%2520approximately%252040%2525.%26text%3DNote%2520that%2520if%2520torque%2520specified,bolt%2520may%2520overload%2520and%2520break.&ved=2ahUKEwiTv97-sZPqAhWUiFwKHeNYAYoQFjABegQIDBAF&usg=AOvVaw0U0vHcct1pVWX9fOxrI1Dv&cshid=1592759213988It does not matter whether the torque is 10lbs ft or 1000lbs ft, the true torque value will be affected. There is a reason why so many people strip the thread in their sumps or crack the sump.When people put the sump bolt back in, even if they have cleaned the thread on the bolt, there is still oil on the thread in the sump.