Author Topic: clunking chain... (Read 7476 times)

philshaq · « **on:** 04 November 2012, 09:17:52 pm »

hi all,

noticed that since adjusting the chain for the first time since owning, (it was very slack, about 10cm of play), that there is a strange clunking coming from near the front sprocket, it only seems to do it on pulling off / at slow engine speeds (or its too loud at speed to hear it).

Any suggestions on what it could be? I checked the chain again today and it needed adjusting, so thats going to need changing, I'm just hoping the clunking isn't anything serious. Is there a bearing on the sprocket that could have gone?!

Thanks for your comments

His Dudeness · « **Reply #1 on:** 04 November 2012, 09:21:06 pm »

there's bearings in the wheel that could be gone but it could also be a tight spot in the chain. can you feel the clunk through the foot peg?

darrsi · « **Reply #2 on:** 04 November 2012, 09:28:57 pm »

I had a tight spot on one link of my chain that i couldn't free up, so as the chain was still in reasonably good nick i got that link replaced, but that caused a clunking feeling. You can normally see a tight link as they seize up at a slightly offset angle compared to the good links.

Also worth checking that your rear wheel is aligned properly, check that the notches are exactly the same either side otherwise you'll wear the chain out rather sharpish!

unfazed · « **Reply #3 on:** 04 November 2012, 11:50:16 pm »

Replace the chain and sprockets, you do not replace a link on a worn chain especially if it was seized. Did you ever see the damage done on a fazer after breaking a chain at speed? It is a lot chaeper to replace the chain and sprockets
The chain may be to tight, a common problem on the Fazer. The free play is 30 to 45mm. A simple check is with the bike on the main stand. check if the tightest part of the chain will just touch the rubbery plastic swinging protector, if not it is to tight.

bozboz · « **Reply #4 on:** 05 November 2012, 12:17:44 am »

A clunking chain can be caused by lack of chain oil/lubricant. Try running some oil along it to get inside the X/O ring links, may get rid of the noise and slow down the wear rate. I wouldn't change the chain untill you can't get the rear wheel any further back on the swing arm adjusters.

Cheers, BozBoz

darrsi · « **Reply #5 on:** 05 November 2012, 06:53:42 am »

@unfazed, my chain wasn't really worn at all, it had low mileage on it in fact and is a heavy duty gold X ring chain.
It was when we had the monsoon season, or British Summer as it's better known as, and as my bike was always outside it was stripped of lubricant in just the one link.

I wouldn't hesitate to change it if it was worn!

unfazed · « **Reply #6 on:** 05 November 2012, 09:09:40 pm »

If one link was seized you can bet the clunking is from other links in trouble also, highly unlikely it affected just one link. Might be a good idea to invest in a good quality bike cover, it will at least stop the chain being washed clean. you may need to grease it more regularily and maybe invest in chain oiler. If I had a chain in that condition I would change it regardless of how worn it was.
How many miles on the front sprocket as a worn one of these can cause funny clunking sounds also. after 10000 miles most fazer front sprockets are well worn.
As for Bozboz comment on changing chains, the adjusters are there as a guide and the correct method of determining if a chain is worn is to try lifting it off the sprocket. Worn chains can slip off the edge of the sprocket as the correct adjustments is on the tightest part of the chain which can leave the chain very loose.
Believe me in 40 years of riding bikes and sevicing many with my mechanic friend it never ceases to amaze me what riders believe and do.

bozboz · « **Reply #7 on:** 05 November 2012, 10:51:08 pm »

Quote from: unfazed on 05 November 2012, 09:09:40 pm

If one link was seized you can bet the clunking is from other links in trouble also, highly unlikely it affected just one link. Might be a good idea to invest in a good quality bike cover, it will at least stop the chain being washed clean. you may need to grease it more regularily and maybe invest in chain oiler. If I had a chain in that condition I would change it regardless of how worn it was.
How many miles on the front sprocket as a worn one of these can cause funny clunking sounds also. after 10000 miles most fazer front sprockets are well worn.
As for Bozboz comment on changing chains, the adjusters are there as a guide and the correct method of determining if a chain is worn is to try lifting it off the sprocket. Worn chains can slip off the edge of the sprocket as the correct adjustments is on the tightest part of the chain which can leave the chain very loose.
Believe me in 40 years of riding bikes and sevicing many with my mechanic friend it never ceases to amaze me what riders believe and do.

I'm just a tight bastard...

unfazed · « **Reply #8 on:** 06 November 2012, 12:19:35 am »

Guessed as much

Penny wise pound foolish

darrsi · « **Reply #9 on:** 06 November 2012, 01:27:23 am »

@unfazed, Funny that, it was a few months ago i changed the link, and no issues whatsoever, and i've got 25 years riding experience on a daily basis, i ain't no newbie?
As i said before, which you obviously didn't comprehend, it was a very rainy period, shit happens, perhaps that one link missed a good oiling?
When the chain fails, i'll come and haunt you and say you were right, but stop scaremongering people, a lot of folks read this website!!
My link was totally approved and fitted by a mechanic that races bikes himself, if it was a wrong'un he'd have told me outright, but he totally agreed in what i was doing!!
Chain and sprockets were changed at the same time when new, so i'm quite content in what i've done, get over yourself!

unfazed · « **Reply #10 on:** 06 November 2012, 08:24:51 am »

Darrsi, No scaremongering here, sometimes the truth hurts. I just tell it like it is as many others on this site will agree with. If you believe in this mechanic so much why not ask him what the problem is and post his reply?
If you read my post properly I only suggested what your problem might be, solutions to prevent your problem from happening again and what I would do in your situation. I wish you the best and sincerely hope the chain lasts.
At least Bozboz took my reply in good faith as I did his.
Maybe the one to get over it it you.

darrsi · « **Reply #11 on:** 06 November 2012, 09:09:08 am »

If i was racing the bike, by all means i hear where you're coming from, it's a no brainer, but i'm not, so if they're so dangerous why are links even be allowed to be sold?
Every link was checked over very carefully and it was just one link that was sticky, if it was more than one i would've have replaced the whole chain. Since i've done it, no more clunky feeling at all and it all feels and looks in good shape.
As long as they are fitted competently i really don't see an issue on a chain that isn't worn?
I'm one of the fussiest people going where my bike is concerned, and if i thought for one second i was putting myself in danger i simply wouldn't have done it.
In comparison to the chain belonging to Philshaq, which does sound knackered to me, my one is fairly new, but was open to very unusually extreme weather conditions, and even though i lubricated it regularly, one of the links obviously got missed, but fortunately i've clocked it early enough and dealt with it.
It really isn't a big deal in my opinion under my particular circumstances, and when i see some of the other bikes on the road i actually think my chain/bike is treated extremely well.

philshaq · « **Reply #12 on:** 06 November 2012, 05:29:42 pm »

thanks for all the replies guys. It looks like there are a number of tight links in the chain. I thought I was oiling it regularly but obviously not enough. Problem is, the bike is in York, I use it daily for commuting to work in York (where I am now) to Leeds.

The links in question appear to be OK from the outside but the inner plate looks a bit red with rust (stupid rookie mistake). Think it will hold up for the remainder of the week?

thanks again

philshaq

darrsi · « **Reply #13 on:** 06 November 2012, 06:52:23 pm »

I don't think anyone will really want to commit to answering that question for fear of something going wrong!

If there's a lot of tight links it must feel extremely lumpy, and probably noisy as well if it's rusty?

Out of curiosity what do you oil the chain with?

unfazed · « **Reply #14 on:** 06 November 2012, 07:21:55 pm »

Why not just fit a chain oiler. I fitted a scotoiler with the touring reservoir behinf the number plate when I bougth my Fazer new in Nov 2003 and the chain lasted 40,000 mile, my second chain is still in good 33000 miles later. Yes I have 73000 miles on it. The only thing extra I do is replace the front sprocket every 10000 miles for the sake of about a fiver as it wears 3 times faster than the rear sprocket (15 teeth as opposed to 45 teeth)
Darsi, just in reply, single links (soft links to use their proper term) are sold as an extra for joining chains to prevent removing the swinging arm when replacing the chain or where the chain runs through the swinging arm and technically are the weakest link. However I have a replaced my cam chain using a soft link and my own drive chain, the drive chain on my eldest sons Fzs1000 and my youngest sons Fzs400. The link is not the issue but the possible damage internally within the chain that you cannot see. Just keep a closer eye on it much more so than you would a new chain.
I would consider racing at 140 mph a safer place than a motorway full of cars and trucks at 70 mph.

darrsi · « **Reply #15 on:** 06 November 2012, 07:28:02 pm »

It took me 45 minutes yesterday to ride 5 miles to work, i've probably got time to watch it as i'm riding it

unfazed · « **Reply #16 on:** 06 November 2012, 09:22:10 pm »

I remember photographing a sign on the canals in Skipton a few years ago it said "Slow to 2 Miles per Hour". Someone must have moved it to your route to work.

At least it will give you something to do while sitting in traffic.

wezdavo · « **Reply #17 on:** 06 November 2012, 09:58:55 pm »

Dont forget about proper chain adjustment and alignment as well as the condition of the chain...
I measure from the swingarm pivot to the axle when aligning the chain, also make sure the axle is tight against the adjusters while tightening the axle bolt, i jam a bar between the chain and rear sprocket to take up any slack while tightening.
Also recheck the slack after tightening because the flex of the swingarm can alter your slack when its fully torqed up..

philshaq · « **Reply #18 on:** 06 November 2012, 10:19:21 pm »

Just went through and typed a massive reply and then closed the bloody window by mistake!!

It needs changing definately, its jumping all over, noticed on the way to work this morning and should have turned around but carried on, realised how much it was jumping when coming back tonight so took it steady and its not moving before I get it changed.

Thinking of taking the front sprocket carrier bearing off and changing that as well, thoughts?

I oil it using Castrol chain lube its good stuff, I just haven't kept on top of it and have left the bike uncovered a couple of times the last week which won't of helped.

I'll look into a scotoiler, might have to wait until next payday! Although the torque wrench I've been putting off buying for ages will probably need to be bought before then.

If I get chance and the light is good enough I'll record how much the chain is jumping before I change it so you can all tell me how much of an idiot I am for riding it like that, oh well, all of life's a lesson I guess!!

The main annoyance is that I could change it tomorrow before the light fades if my boss would let me work from home, but for some reason he's not letting me even though its standard practice where I work $:\$

Thanks as always for your comments. Now need to get to bed, few more hours and the new born will be awake.

Cheers,

Philshaq

darrsi · « **Reply #19 on:** 06 November 2012, 11:23:44 pm »

Don't forget to buy the modified 12mm front sprocket nut, rather than the original 9mm one while you're at it, that's if it hasn't already been changed.
It's quite an important mod, and i'm hoping that your clunking has nothing to do with the known problem?

The new part number is 90891-10124, if you phone Fowlers of Bristol up you should get it delivered next day, but make sure you have your chassis number ready to give them.

http://www.fowlers.co.uk/parts/from_fowlers_web.shtml

unfazed · « **Reply #20 on:** 07 November 2012, 12:40:56 am »

Thinking of taking the front sprocket carrier bearing off and changing that as well, thoughts?
Not possible unless you split the engine as it is held in by a circlip located in the crankcase and outer race of the bearing.
Definitely a new chain and sprockets and as Darrsi says the new 12mm nut kit

philshaq · « **Reply #21 on:** 07 November 2012, 07:21:01 am »

Cheers guys.

When you say known problem what do you mean? Could I find a horror show when I start working on it?

ThAnks for the tip about the bearing. Won't be buying that then! !

darrsi · « **Reply #22 on:** 07 November 2012, 10:42:11 am »

Put "front sprocket nut" in the search box above and fill yer boots.......(exit this page before you search though)

Andy FZS · « **Reply #23 on:** 07 November 2012, 11:58:30 am »

My chain started to feel rough a few months ago despite regular oiling

(Spray lube) so I used engine oil and all was well. This prompted me to buy and fit a Scott oiler but after a while I started to feel something again???? Guess who forget to keep the bottle topped up

anyway re-filled oiler and once again smooth running so Scott oilers get my vote

Andy

unfazed · « **Reply #24 on:** 07 November 2012, 08:56:49 pm »

Should not have anything worse than a 6mm wide circular saw blade where the front sprocket should be