This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Thorn
1
« on: 17 March 2014, 09:52:50 pm »
Friend of a friend of a friend(...) is picking the bike up in a van in an hour roughly if it's still there. Engines aren't that rare... Why not just replace the engine?
The expense of pickup and replacing the engine exceeds the value of the bike to me. Sound like you've just had e-foccin-nuff
Im guessing youd rather someone decent got it quick before some complete arsehole half inches it anyway.
Still though it sounds like you are safe & a major engine fault at speed on the motorway coulda got pretty ugly......get looking on bike trader immediately to make yourself feel a little bit better.
The drive chain(RK brand) snapped a link in half and blew through the clutch pushrod & back of the engine. It was religiously maintained, cleaned and lubed every week and had only done around 4000 miles, it just shouldn't have happened. The bike has been nothing but a nightmare for me over the last 2 years even after a length rebuild project. While I'm screwed for transport, I'm mildly glad to see the back of it. It had an almost supernatural ability to find a new fantastic reason to break down or refuse to start which I've experienced from no other bike, I'd almost say the foccin thing was haunted, it's certainly had a few crashes from previous owners which weren't documented anywhere. ... busa next...
2
« on: 17 March 2014, 08:17:46 pm »
Hi, Not entirely sure if this is suitable to post here. Engine went today, left bike at side of motorway. If anyone has the facilities to pick the bike up, it's theirs (Scotland) Location: M90, south of Bridge of Earl heading Northbound: http://goo.gl/maps/XwblMEdit: Gumtree being awkward, will re-edit with link to gumtree ad soon.
3
« on: 23 September 2013, 01:45:50 am »
4
« on: 22 September 2013, 09:42:15 pm »
A yellow fazer in rosyth petrol station today, pulled in with a few other bikes.
Had the yamaha yellow race colours with the black&white stripe down it, member from here perhaps?
5
« on: 05 September 2013, 02:36:58 pm »
£900
I can insure a GSXR1100, Bandit 1200, ZZR1100, GSXR750 etc, all for half that price.
I don't know why I am penalised for riding a fazer, but the second I put my details in and change the vehicle to an FZS600 (I don't provide them with reg) the quotes are ridiculous.
I won't be insuring it for another year.
6
« on: 29 July 2013, 10:46:58 pm »
If it was raining in both cases the bike died on you, it might be plug caps, I've had the exact same experience lately. Easy to check, pull the plug caps off, and check if they're damp, shaking the caps around a bit will certainly get the water out. 
7
« on: 29 July 2013, 10:37:51 pm »
Ive had them out of a 95,000 fazer before they were rusted to high heaven. I heated them up until they were glowing orange. I didn't have an issue with them to be fair. If I had snapped one. Engine would of been out and on the bench straight away. If one snaps generally you know what your working with then.
Seems pretty lucky then, were they definitely the original downpipes? Unfortunately there's no way to get the engine out of the frame with the downpipes still attached as the center two go through the frame (unless you take the pipes off with an angle grinder, I guess)
8
« on: 28 July 2013, 08:01:03 pm »
Does anyone know if the FZR 600 cylinder head, will fit the FZS 600. I have really had some bad luck with broken downpipe studs. Or has anyone got a good FZS 600 head with all exhaust studs by chance.  Many thanks
Why do you need to replace the head? I had two snapped flush and just took the entire engine to my local engineering shop and they drilled them out and re-tapped all for like £30
I had 6 snap flush, and a new head (including valves, springs, shims, buckets, cams) was only £50, getting them drilled/retapped was quotes of £150 onwards everywhere I looked 
I hope that wasn't a skilled mechanic who snapped 6 studs in a row?
It wouldn't have mattered who done it - They were soaked in penetrant for two weeks, there was very little of the exhaust nuts left before the procedure even started. I'm not sure what they're made out of on the fazer, but it's most certainly not standard. I kept some of the nuts in a bag to show people, if you press them between your fingers they actually crumble. I know plenty of skilled mechanics, and I also know the procedure very well - they wouldn't have done it any differently. The best chance to remove them successfully would have actually been to dremel the nuts off, but due to the awkward frame of the fazer that's almost impossible.
9
« on: 28 July 2013, 03:06:53 pm »
Does anyone know if the FZR 600 cylinder head, will fit the FZS 600. I have really had some bad luck with broken downpipe studs. Or has anyone got a good FZS 600 head with all exhaust studs by chance. Many thanks
Why do you need to replace the head? I had two snapped flush and just took the entire engine to my local engineering shop and they drilled them out and re-tapped all for like £30
I had 6 snap flush, and a new head (including valves, springs, shims, buckets, cams) was only £50, getting them drilled/retapped was quotes of £150 onwards everywhere I looked
10
« on: 27 July 2013, 02:09:22 pm »
As a seller I'd put it up for £1000
As a buyer I'd offer £850
11
« on: 26 July 2013, 01:20:49 pm »
Thanks guys The respray isn't so much just a change of colour, unfortunately the tank and fairings are quite tatty. The previous owner seemed to have a fetish for tarmac, and I don't mean riding on it  She passed her MOT yesterday, with one advisory - weeping fork seal. Bit of a pisser considering the fork seals had just been done a few days previous, I've never seen a new set of fork seals go so fast! Won't be buying Kyoto again. Apart from that, the bike decided to wee all over my leg the other day:
Luckily it was just a hose that was loose, but in the process of testing the thermostat and fan switch, I snapped a bolt in the thermostat housing  Beyond the few expected teething issues with a 6 month rebuild, there seems to be some performance issues that I haven't had time to look into yet. There's a massive flatspot around 5k, so strong that if you try to force past it the bike gets very stuttery/hestitant, I'm not even sure she'll pull herself past it. However, boot it down a gear into 6-7k and everything is dandy again. I have no idea what it's like beyond 8k as I haven't been there yet. I haven't had time to look into the culprit yet, however pretty much everything has been changed on this rebuild. Sandybikespares downpipes, K&N filter, new cylinder head, valve clearances done, the camchain is very stretched (on the end of the tensioner) but I don't have the funds to replace it yet. I also reset the carb pilot screws to 2.5 turns, possibly not the wisest decision. One thing I did notice is that the plug caps don't seem to be waterproof at all, they just soak up the water from the thunderstorms we've been having recently and the bike splutters and runs like a tank, so I think some NGK replacements are on the list aswell.
12
« on: 26 July 2013, 01:26:33 am »
Well it's been a long rebuild with almost every part of the bike being replaced, from knackered calipers to shot fork seals and even a new cylinder head, but I thought I'd throw up a before and after photo. Originally I was going to do a project thread as I took photos throughout, but typing up six months of history seems a bit tedious! Anyway  Before  | Thorn FZS600 Before |
After  | Thorn FZS600 After |
(high res photos linked below) Before: http://thoronir.net/photo/FZS600_Before.jpgAfter: http://thoronir.net/photo/FZS600_After.jpgFuture plans are a full respray of the bike in gloss black, tarted up with blue highlights, unfortunately funds do not allow it right now
13
« on: 25 July 2013, 03:29:02 pm »
Try putting a screwdriver against different parts of the engine and against your ear and see if you can isolate where the noise is coming from
Not while you're riding though.
I've isolated the noise. It's definitely coming from the screw driver
14
« on: 24 July 2013, 11:25:19 pm »
It was more of a surprised statement rather than disbelief. 
Whoops  In any case, it is quite odd that fazers are geared so high imo
15
« on: 24 July 2013, 07:45:25 pm »
16
« on: 23 July 2013, 04:18:25 am »
Why do you want to remove the 13.5k limiter?
17
« on: 03 July 2013, 09:55:42 pm »
I purchased a wezmoto rear line after I managed to run over the old one (yes you read that right), seems to be decent, no issues.
18
« on: 03 July 2013, 09:51:24 pm »
What happened the original head?
Exhaust studs snapped, replacement head was substantially cheaper than getting 6 studs drilled out and replaced.
19
« on: 02 July 2013, 07:48:17 pm »
thorn...which cams did you use in the end ?
I decided to use the cams that came with the replacement head, the difference in wear wasn't significant. I'll refurbish and do a bit of work on the old head at some point so I have a functional spare
20
« on: 01 July 2013, 11:55:12 pm »
Did you remove the residue of the old gasket from the mating surfaces?
21
« on: 01 July 2013, 11:15:06 pm »
So had another go today, used the correct cap caps for the head this time and it turned over like a champ! Had time to get the valve clearances sorted and finish the engine assembly. Craziest thing I've ever seen to be honest, pretty much means if you buy a replacement head and don't get the cam caps with it you're screwed! In any case, engine is back together now, props to unfazed for pointing that one out
22
« on: 01 July 2013, 01:01:08 pm »
What's the consensus on clip type master links?
Perfectly fine as long as you install the clip the correct way around. Split links were commonly used in the 80s on 1000cc machines putting out 130+bhp with no issue, then the mid 90s came along and it was absolute taboo for some reason! Everyone's heard a story about it, but I've never met anybody that's experienced a splt-link failure on a large machine. But it's rather irrelevent anyway, because most chains tend to come with a rivet link these days
23
« on: 01 July 2013, 01:52:27 am »
I don't see what the big deal is, if you give the caliper a good scrub and regrease it 2 or 3 times a year it'll function perfectly well?
what, like this? http://thoronir.net/photo/Fazer_RearCaliper_Before.jpg(not me, previous owners )
24
« on: 30 June 2013, 07:45:50 pm »
Uh oh, do sandybikespares downpipes suffer from this?
I have sandybikespares pipes on and haven't had any issue in removing / replacing the oil filter with them
Good to know, I was getting a bit paranoid there! Personally in the ops situation, I would heat the pipes up then whack them with a hammer until they are bent out of the way enough to access the filter 
25
« on: 30 June 2013, 04:07:04 am »
Are you using the cam caps from you own cylinder head or the ones that came with the replacement? The cam caps are machined in situ at the factory and are not interchangable, they have to go back on to exactly the same places they were taken from. Easy to refit them in the wrong place as they are all similiar with just arrows point to the right side.
They could be out of line enough to prevent the camshafts turning when the cam cap bolts are tightened.
Were the caps loose when you recieved the head, if so they may have been removed and put back incorrectly?
Oops, good catch! I've actually been using the caps from the old cylinder head, I didn't realise there would be quite that much of a difference. I'll try the correct cam caps for the head tomorrow before I do anything drastic!
|
Show Posts
