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Messages - His Dudeness
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2551
« on: 31 December 2011, 02:56:42 am »
i used to do that as a kid. the key is not to buy the steel wool that has soap in it.  we used to used to wrap it around a wire coat hanger and spin it around. wasn't as fancy as your one
2553
« on: 29 December 2011, 01:24:34 pm »
I'm looking for the dimensions of an exhaust gasket off a 98 model fazer. I want to see if the 400 and the 600 exhaust gaskets are the same size. The dimesions of the 400 ones are
42mm outside diameter
32mm inside diameter
3mm thick
thanks
2554
« on: 22 December 2011, 07:05:54 pm »
i have the same problem seeing my elbows in the original mirrors. but does putting the wider mirrors on make filtering trickier? easy filtering is probably the best thing about the fazer. i wouldn't want to lose that
2555
« on: 19 December 2011, 12:11:32 am »
the radiator cap is directly above that drain hole so you probably just spilt a bit of coolant into it.
2557
« on: 11 December 2011, 09:34:57 pm »
Compressed air destroys this kind of filters
its basically a wire mesh and you're blowing the dust out of it with air. how does that destroy it?
2558
« on: 11 December 2011, 05:12:50 pm »
How often are you supposed to clean and re-oil them ? I put one on ages ago.
They say on the box 50000 miles 
they say 50,000 but you'd be mad to let it go that far without cleaning it. they're not really maintenance free they just last longer and can be reused. i'd say you should at least blow it out with compressed air every couple of months because crap does build up in them and that will obviously restrict the air flow through them.
2559
« on: 08 December 2011, 01:25:57 am »
cheers pat thats saved me a bit of hassle. i've already replaced the springs with oem springs but the clutch is still slipping under full throttle. the cable is adjusted correctly and the bike has fresh oil so i'm guessing it must be the friction plates. £12-£15 is a bit of a rip off. i'll have to do some shopping around oh yeah this is a good site for oem parts incase you dont know it already http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/parts.html
2560
« on: 07 December 2011, 10:26:57 pm »
ok pat you're probably right. i probably should have had the title as 600 parts that will fit the 400 instead of 600 parts that are the same.
if you're stuck for an exhaust just use the standard 600 one it works fine. it lines up and bolts on perfectly. i have a scorpion oval titanium exhaust off a 600 as well as the standard one and that fits perfectly too. i also have 600 carb inlets on it and they fit.
do you know if the clutch plates are the same on the two bikes? i'll have to replace mine soon
2561
« on: 04 December 2011, 04:15:28 pm »
hey pat good to see you've joined up. i'm sure you can add loads to this for people with the 400
i've bought the 400 oil filter off yamaha using the 400 part number and on the side of the box it has a list of the bikes that the filter fits to and the 600 is one of the bikes so as far as i can tell they are identical.
i also have a set of 400 carb intakes and a set of 600 intakes and they the exact same sizes. the diameter of the intake on the carb itself is the same
the exhaust can might have a different diameter exit on the can but the rest is the same and the 600 one bolts on. like i said i've only list parts that i actually bought and have put on the bike so i know they definitely fit
2562
« on: 27 November 2011, 11:51:13 pm »
the FOC-U football league is still raging on  if anyone wants to join feel free http://fantasy.premierleague.com/League Code: 320670-223651
2563
« on: 24 November 2011, 10:10:56 pm »
sure you could buff that out
2564
« on: 17 November 2011, 11:49:55 pm »
No I don't have an English version. The bike was only meant for the Japanese market so there is no English version. BUT and its a big fat but. The fazer 600 manual is basically a copy and past of the original 400 manual. So if you open up the two of them side by side you can compare the sections. Just take the english from the 600 manual and the numbers from the Japanese 400 manual and you're sorted
2565
« on: 16 November 2011, 07:30:41 pm »
hey the internet actually works steve could i ask how did you find this section? i attached the owners manual below. i forgot to add it in with the other stuff
2566
« on: 13 November 2011, 10:30:57 pm »
I have a similair problem to those mentioned here. I replaced the piston seals on the front caliper after the bike failed it's MOT. The MOT tester said the brakes were binding and suggested replacing the seals. After doing that I bled the brakes following the instructions in the Haynes manual, but the brakes still feel spongy and I can pull the brake lever right back to the handle bar. Does anyone have any ideas what I've done wrong or suggestions for what else I can try?
I also noticed that when operating the brake lever once, the pistons don't all move equally, the small piston on one side of the caliper and the large piston on the other side moved out while the other two pistons hardly moved at all. Cause for concern?
you can also try to bleed the brakes at the banjo bolts.
2567
« on: 03 November 2011, 07:08:57 pm »
i got dunlop roadsmart tyres on my one recently and i likes them. seem to do well in wet weather
2568
« on: 01 November 2011, 11:04:33 pm »
i usually get to the middle line of the E on the fuel gauge and then fill up
2569
« on: 29 October 2011, 11:36:54 pm »
i'd clamp one side and pump the other side out nearly all the way. then swap the clamp over to the side that is nearly out and pump the other side out. then just pull out the side thats left
2570
« on: 23 October 2011, 12:53:02 am »
are you sure theres no damage to the rim or tyre? have you got bar ends on the handle bars?
2571
« on: 14 October 2011, 10:23:22 pm »
small update: I got a quickshifter this week that will allow for clutchless upshifts and down shifts so I’m hoping to add that on to the bike. I’ve been talking to a few people about using pneumatics and they've all said it would be possible but the problem is how to run the compressor. Trucks use compressed air to power their brake but they have a mechanical link from the engine to the compressor which I can’t really do here so if I was to use compressed air I’d probably have to run it off the electrical system of the bike but I don’t know if I would be able to get a 12v compressor that would be reliable enough and to use. I’ve seen high performance 12v compressors for pumping up truck and tractor tyres but they pull a crazy amount of amps and theres no way a bikes electrical system could run one of them so I’m still not sure about the compressed air system. Another thing I’ll have to look at is a way of locking the landing gear when it comes down. I could size the actuators so that they have a high enough break force to resist anything pushing them back up or I could come up with a mechanical way of locking them when they are lower like some sort of pin that could be lock in place and then released when you wanted the landing gear to be raised again. Lots to think about anyway
2572
« on: 11 October 2011, 10:53:12 pm »
i thought valve clearance being out of spec would be a contributer to a lumpy idle? if im wrong i stand corrected apologise for that bum steer.
2573
« on: 11 October 2011, 10:45:39 pm »
400 seems truly exotic. Can't find a single one (for sale or show) in the neighbourhood. Guess finding 400 specific spares would be a nightmare. Pity, since it sounds like perfect bike - just a bit lighter than 600, probably less thirsty and lower taxes.
BTW, this spill check rally works! 
it seems that not too many of them were imported into the UK. but a lot of parts interchange between the 600 and 400. if you have the part number you can get stuff directly from yamaha. if i had to get something more exotic like carbs i'd go for yahoo japan auctions. the prices on there are reasonable for most stuff. and if i blew an engine i just stick a 600 engine and carbs in it. so parts aren't too bad really
2574
« on: 08 October 2011, 10:43:43 pm »
it might be valve clearances issue. i think tight valve clearances can cause a lumpy idle. at 40,000 they might be out of spec. turning the mixture screw a few turns is probably not a great idea. i think they are fairly sensitive to adjustment. you should be trying 1/4 or 1/2 turn adjustments not a few turns. it might be worth going back to the factory setting and trying again. have you check your plugs since adjusting the carbs? they should be a brownish colour around the electrode
2575
« on: 08 October 2011, 10:32:26 pm »
yeah no bother
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