For your starting problem, have you ruled out the fuel pump? Are you waiting for long enough after turning the ignition on, for the pump to fill the carbs before hitting the starter?
... Question is, what can stop an engine dead after 30 seconds of revving on the choke at around 2500rpm?
Quote from: darrsi on 23 February 2017, 07:32:32 pm... Question is, what can stop an engine dead after 30 seconds of revving on the choke at around 2500rpm?Sudden temporary loss of sparks would be my guess.It also allows a build-up of unburnt vapour in the exhaust system which is ideal for elephant gun effects when the sparks resume normal service.
I just don't think your bike likes you.
Quote from: fazersharp on 23 February 2017, 08:15:13 pmI just don't think your bike likes you.I buy it shiny new things, i take it out, i even buy it booze, where am i going wrong?
Its not you - its her, she wants more out of life, a little excitement once in a while, yes you take her out but its always to the same place, she feels stifled and and feels that she has so much more to offer than what you can give her she longs for the open road and sweeping bends and although deep down she still loves you she is bored with the daily commute. Which is why she is always reluctant to start.
There are many, many possible causes.It could be a failing component somewhere or it could be an intermittent open circuit or (less likely) intermittent short circuit in the wiring. You might be able to narrow down the search if there are any other unexplained faults, such as flickering lights or intermittent glitches on the instrument panel for example.Sadly vehicle wiring problems are a pain in the arse… and they're a hundred times worse if they only show up when they feel like it (i.e. when you're late for work or at midnight on your way home).
Worn ignition maybe .
Check the wiring and connectors of the sidestand cutout and make sure the switch isn't covered in cack. If it's the plunger type switch on your bike make sure the plunger is moving freely and not getting stuck, contact cleaner can be used to free these up.
Mmmmmmm.....ESETEST ...could be onto something there...is the key loose/sloppy in the ignition ?Agree with you that it will probably be something simple....might be worth by-passing the ignition just to rule this one out....wont cost you anything trying
Quote from: red98 on 24 February 2017, 07:40:18 pmMmmmmmm.....ESETEST ...could be onto something there...is the key loose/sloppy in the ignition ?Agree with you that it will probably be something simple....might be worth by-passing the ignition just to rule this one out....wont cost you anything trying Key feels okay to me.How would i bypass it?
Quote from: darrsi on 24 February 2017, 08:19:51 pmQuote from: red98 on 24 February 2017, 07:40:18 pmMmmmmmm.....ESETEST ...could be onto something there...is the key loose/sloppy in the ignition ?Agree with you that it will probably be something simple....might be worth by-passing the ignition just to rule this one out....wont cost you anything trying Key feels okay to me.How would i bypass it?With the main fuse out, get to the connector bundle under the tank, disconnect the two plugs from the ignition and make up three links to mimic what the switch does in the "on" position (it's fairly clear which ones to link using the diagram in the manual).Plug the main fuse back in and your bike is on and ready to start.As you say though, it's odd that the bike doesn't show up any glitches once it's running properly… if it was a dodgy connection it would be vibration sensitive and you'd expect it it cut out occasionally when hitting bumps.On the other hand, it doesn't sound much like water contamination either, particularly as you should have dissolved any present with your isopropanol dosing regime.I wonder if it's flooding? Shaking the bike from side to side might have unjammed a stuck float perhaps?