Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: Billy Balthorpe on 07 July 2015, 07:37:22 pm
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So ive just put my Gen 1 back together and ive just realised that there was no temperature switch mounted on the radiator, I could do with testing the fan before I go to Europe on Thursday. Can anyone tell me where the fan switch is and if its just the normal case of touching to two wires together to make the fan start.
Thanks.
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Start the bike up and leave it idling the fan should kick in within 60 seconds.
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60 seconds??? Really??? :eek
I could still do with knowing where the temp switch is so I can short it out if I need to, im off to Europe on Thursday and it looks like its going to be hot.
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Yes really - http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,15358.msg174810.html (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,15358.msg174810.html)
If yours doesn't then you do need to make further investigations before you go away. If it does then this would be a good indication that the fan is operating as expected.
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Ok, but to do any further investigations I still need to know where the over temp switch is, or don't they have one?
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A Haynes manual would probably be a worthwhile investment as it has the relevant information along with pictures / diagrams that would be useful to you, here is some relevant information from the manual which I hope is useful.
The switch (thermo unit) is contained within the thermostat itself, the temperature LED should come on for a few seconds when you turn on the ignition this is supposed to indicate that the circuit is good. If you want to test the switch you'll need to remove the thermo unit from the thermostat housing and put it in a saucepan of coolant and raise the heat with an ohmmeter attached to the terminals. At 80c you should have 3.4 - 4.0 K-ohms at 105c you should have 1.6 - 1.9 k-ohms.
There is a fan specific fuse in the main fuse box, so you will probably want to make sure that this is OK if it is blown check the wiring.
There is a cooling fan relay under the left hand side cover, to test this set a multimeter to ohms x 1 and connect the positive probe to the brown wire terminal on the relay and the negative probe to the blue wire terminal. Use 2 insulated jumper wires to connect the positive terminal on the battery to the brown wire terminal and the negative terminal on the battery to the green/black wire terminal. You should hear a click and the multimter should read a continuous 0 Ohms.
If you want to check the fan, raise the tank and trace the motor leads back to the connector and use 2 insulated jumper wires to connect the positive battery terminal to the blue wire terminal and the negative battery terminal to the black wire terminal.
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On the subject of the fan, has anyone ever wired in a manual switch to keep the fan on. This might seem an odd thing to do, but these days when the outside temp is 30+ I have considered having it on continuously while doing the first half (30 min) of my journey of an evening where I am filtering @ 10-20mph.
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If the fan kicks in when it is needed is when the temp is a but high then leave it like that, I am sure that overcooling a motor is not good for it, but willing to stand, or actually sit with a beer, corrected!
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Once had a CX500E which I fitted a manual override to. Two up with luggage going uphill tended to raise the temperature and the fan didn't kick in early enough for me. I simply traced the two wires back to the tank and soldered two flying leads to them. To these I crimped Lucas connectors and a hold to run push switch. I originally had a rocker but kept leaving it on. The push button if held in as soon as the temperature started to rise only needed held on for ten seconds. You need to source a fairly robust switch as the cooling fan pulls 7.5 amps.