Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: fazersharp on 27 April 2019, 10:46:03 am
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Chain and sprockets are OEM and 21 years old but only done 22k miles.
I have a tight spot on the chain that I have tried to free up last year but its still there and I can hear it and feel it through the peg. I have just had an mot and got the chap to look at my rear sprocket as I wanted a second opinion, he had a good look and said he does not think it needs changing but pointed out some chain wear.
I know some say change sprockets at the same time but the rear at least looks fine to me. Pictures attached.
Also I want to fit a continuous chain and want an x ring D.I.D but confused as to if they come as continuous. Here https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_rev/72435#itemReview_9179 (https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_rev/72435#itemReview_9179)
First one is before I cleaned the area being photographed.
I will post some of the front sprocket later when I get the cover off
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Sprocket does look okay to me, but i've always changed everything as a set in the past.
Reckon you might struggle finding an endless chain though.
Get the lot here from Busters for the same price.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-Fazer-1998-2003-GOLD-Heavy-Duty-X-Ring-Chain-and-Sprocket-Set-Kit/400962520220?epid=1046181766&hash=item5d5b3a849c:g:-RkAAOSw47dZ1~~X (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-Fazer-1998-2003-GOLD-Heavy-Duty-X-Ring-Chain-and-Sprocket-Set-Kit/400962520220?epid=1046181766&hash=item5d5b3a849c:g:-RkAAOSw47dZ1~~X)
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Yes I am struggling to find a continuous chain. So then my next questions would be what methods do people use to rivet a chain. If I have to buy a tool on top of the chain then it may be as well to get the dealer to fit it perhaps.
Whilst I was removing the swing arm and suspension linkages to fit a continuous chain I was going to take the opportunity to re grease everything but if I fit a rivet chain then I am going to be lazy and not do the re grease. -- Should I really re grease at 22k - dry mileage.
That buster link - the chain is quality D.I.D but no mention of the sprocket manufacturer. Should I be looking at getting the chain and separate quality sprockets.
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Yes I am struggling to find a continuous chain. So then my next questions would be what methods do people use to rivet a chain. If I have to buy a tool on top of the chain then it may be as well to get the dealer to fit it perhaps.
Whilst I was removing the swing arm and suspension linkages to fit a continuous chain I was going to take the opportunity to re grease everything but if I fit a rivet chain then I am going to be lazy and not do the re grease. -- Should I really re grease at 22k - dry mileage.
That buster link - the chain is quality D.I.D but no mention of the sprocket manufacturer. Should I be looking at getting the chain and separate quality sprockets.
I would hazard a guess that the majority of people don't grease things as much as they should, so that is simply your choice.
As for the sprockets, they will be 100% fit for purpose, so no point in worrying about quality.
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Thanks for your help
Its just the linking of the chain that I do not have the tools for. Have just rang the local yam dealer who would charge £80 to fit my supplied chain and sprockets or £60 to fit my supplied chain only.
What tools or methods do people use to link a chain.
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Think I have found an endless chain but confused as on the same page are links https://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/en/category/10108000000/article/545626/ (https://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/en/category/10108000000/article/545626/)
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Think I have found the same ebay Busters kit on the Busters site but is £120 from their site :eek unless I have got something wronghttps://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/en/k3/category/10199000000/vehicle/21149/k3_editor//k3sprocket/726.19.93/k3pgear/727.01.76/chain/id7972482/
And this one with an endless at £125 https://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/en/k3/category/10199000000/vehicle/21149/k3_editor//k3sprocket/726.19.93/k3pgear/727.01.76/chain/id7487044/ (https://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/en/k3/category/10199000000/vehicle/21149/k3_editor//k3sprocket/726.19.93/k3pgear/727.01.76/chain/id7487044/)
The spec says FZS600H - never heard of "H"
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DID x ring chain and renthal sprockets every time for me. 40000 miles no problem
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40k miles would last me 40 years. Where do you get yours from. I see renthals £11 front £43 rear (hard anodised )
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It's quite standard behaviour for companies to sell stuff cheaper on Ebay than their official websites.
I clocked onto that years ago.
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40k miles would last me 40 years. Where do you get yours from. I see renthals £11 front £43 rear (hard anodised )
That's what i mean, you're not racing it and you do minimal mileage so a standard kit will be just fine for your bike. D.I.D. are a well known tried and tested company for chains so they're not gonna lose their reputation by pairing them up with crappy sprockets.
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I’ve used rivet link C&S kits and endless ones in the past.
A chain tool is pretty cheap, the one I bought years ago currently costs £20 and has made easy work of about 8 C&S changes in that time.
Alternatively, that endless chain looks ideal, I guess the links are listed in case you want to extend/shorten it. If like me, you’re too lazy to strip the rear suspension down for lubrication unless forced into it, then the endless option is ideal.
There looks to be plenty of life in that rear sprocket and a “silent” front sprocket is less than a tenner.
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It's quite standard behaviour for companies to sell stuff cheaper on Ebay than their official websites.
I clocked onto that years ago.
I have seen that too but not so much of a big difference. Shame as I cannot find them doing the endless chain kit. Also just noticed that they are being "canny" with the description and it may catch people out. On the one in your link GOLD Heavy Duty X-Ring Chain and Sprocket Set Kit but it is not a D.I.D ( I dont think )
This is their D.I.D ebay offering https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS-600-FAZER-1998-2003-DID-X-RING-CHAIN-SPROCKET-KIT-X-Ring-FZS600/400676831619?hash=item5d4a334183:g:KAEAAOSw9kxZ1l7L (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS-600-FAZER-1998-2003-DID-X-RING-CHAIN-SPROCKET-KIT-X-Ring-FZS600/400676831619?hash=item5d4a334183:g:KAEAAOSw9kxZ1l7L) Still cheaper than on their site though.
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I’ve used rivet link C&S kits and endless ones in the past.
A chain tool is pretty cheap, the one I bought years ago currently costs £20 and has made easy work of about 8 C&S changes in that time.
Alternatively, that endless chain looks ideal, I guess the links are listed in case you want to extend/shorten it. If like me, you’re too lazy to strip the rear suspension down for lubrication unless forced into it, then the endless option is ideal.
There looks to be plenty of life in that rear sprocket and a “silent” front sprocket is less than a tenner.
I will get a photo of the front sprocket for peoples opinion as to if I really need to change it as I understand it wears quicker than the rear.
What is the tool you use.
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It's quite standard behaviour for companies to sell stuff cheaper on Ebay than their official websites.
I clocked onto that years ago.
I have seen that too but not so much of a big difference. Shame as I cannot find them doing the endless chain kit. Also just noticed that they are being "canny" with the description and it may catch people out. On the one in your link GOLD Heavy Duty X-Ring Chain and Sprocket Set Kit but it is not a D.I.D ( I dont think )
This is their D.I.D ebay offering https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS-600-FAZER-1998-2003-DID-X-RING-CHAIN-SPROCKET-KIT-X-Ring-FZS600/400676831619?hash=item5d4a334183:g:KAEAAOSw9kxZ1l7L (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZS-600-FAZER-1998-2003-DID-X-RING-CHAIN-SPROCKET-KIT-X-Ring-FZS600/400676831619?hash=item5d4a334183:g:KAEAAOSw9kxZ1l7L) Still cheaper than on their site though.
Blimey, i never even spotted that, the advert must've been lobbed in the middle of other D.I.D. chain ads, plus i put D.I.D. in the search engine.
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I will get a photo of the front sprocket for peoples opinion as to if I really need to change it as I understand it wears quicker than the rear.
What is the tool you use?
This is the one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183609863691? (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183609863691?)
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I use the Afam Riviting tool, simple to use
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40k miles would last me 40 years. Where do you get yours from. I see renthals £11 front £43 rear (hard anodised )
That's what i mean, you're not racing it and you do minimal mileage so a standard kit will be just fine for your bike. D.I.D. are a well known tried and tested company for chains so they're not gonna lose their reputation by pairing them up with crappy sprockets.
Got to disagree with that. The sets you buy usually come with afam sprockets and they wear very quickly and destroy the chain in the process I doubled my chain life by pairing it with quality sprockets.
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Surprised that Afam are considered inferior, being the sprocket manufacturer of choice for many professional race teams. Rossi's team for one. When I 've bought DID chain/sprocket kits, the budget sprockets supplied were normally JT or Sun. I know Celticbiker puts in huge mileages so has great experience in chain, sprocket and tyre life, but was shocked that Afam was poorly rated, especially as I went out of my way to choose that make for my rear sprocket replacement recently :lol
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… The sets you buy usually come with afam sprockets…
I guess things have changed. I’ve not bought an aftermarket C&S set for ages (the last 2 have been genuine Yamaha and I get 40k from them thanks to the oiler), but the sprockets always used to be JT.
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40k miles would last me 40 years. Where do you get yours from. I see renthals £11 front £43 rear (hard anodised )
That's what i mean, you're not racing it and you do minimal mileage so a standard kit will be just fine for your bike. D.I.D. are a well known tried and tested company for chains so they're not gonna lose their reputation by pairing them up with crappy sprockets.
Got to disagree with that. The sets you buy usually come with afam sprockets and they wear very quickly and destroy the chain in the process I doubled my chain life by pairing it with quality sprockets.
They can't be that bad, and as mentioned you push your bike harder than most people so wear and tear is inevitably going to seem that much quicker than normal to you.
But after a quick look, most of the kits i've seen have JT sprocket sets with the chain, so i think it's just a matter of shopping about, but i never found any other negative comments about AFAM sprockets either, which are classed as a race brand, in fact they were all positive.
For the average rider as long as the chain is maintained by being correctly lubed, tightened and is on straight then it should last a very long time, but as you could probably imagine not all of these things are adhered to by some owners. Even a brand new chain can go bad extremely quickly if left neglected out in the elements.
Another thing to mention, i spent decades using proper spray chain lube thinking it was the best thing since sliced bread, yet after trialing using engine oil instead put on with a paint brush i can really see and feel that the chain is in a much better condition than it ever was than when it was gunged up with lube.
Nothing sticks to it any more so it looks cleaner for starters and when the oil is very quickly applied with the paint brush on a warm chain i can immediately see that every single link is getting a good covering, whereas i can now understand that it would be fairly easy to miss just one link using the spray lube which in turn can then become that weakest link that you suddenly feel through your footpeg further down the line.
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… The sets you buy usually come with afam sprockets…
I guess things have changed. I’ve not bought an aftermarket C&S set for ages (the last 2 have been genuine Yamaha and I get 40k from them thanks to the oiler), but the sprockets always used to be JT.
I must look into getting a Scottoiler to be honest, it really doesn't bother me using the brush method at all, in fact i like to see exactly what's going on, but it would make more sense to do it automatically.
I've started using a thicker grade gear oil, is that still okay to use with these gadgets?
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Don't think the chain is endless when fitting it just means it's supplied with a rivet link only instead of a split link option, so hence the endless in the description. (http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif)
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Interesting read:
https://www.sportbikes.net/forums/fz6-fz6r/450616-need-new-chain-want-endless.html (https://www.sportbikes.net/forums/fz6-fz6r/450616-need-new-chain-want-endless.html)
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Don't think the chain is endless when fitting it just means it's supplied with a rivet link only instead of a split link option, so hence the endless in the description. ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif[/url])
That has thrown me now.
Here are the 2 options in busters one described as "Endless" and the other as "Open Chain with Rivet link". https://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/en/category/10108000000/vehicle/yamaha-fzs-600:21149/ (https://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/en/category/10108000000/vehicle/yamaha-fzs-600:21149/)
But both have a drop down list with "Accessories" which list separately either a hollow rivet or a solid rivet.
Screenshot attached
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC)
Something to read,
https://www.mrcycles.com/endlesschainremoval (https://www.mrcycles.com/endlesschainremoval)
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Don't think the chain is endless when fitting it just means it's supplied with a rivet link only instead of a split link option, so hence the endless in the description. ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif[/url])
That has thrown me now.
Here are the 2 options in busters one described as "Endless" and the other as "Open Chain with Rivet link". [url]https://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/en/category/10108000000/vehicle/yamaha-fzs-600:21149/[/url] ([url]https://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/en/category/10108000000/vehicle/yamaha-fzs-600:21149/[/url])
But both have a drop down list with "Accessories" which list separately either a hollow rivet or a solid rivet.
Screenshot attached
That is a conundrum :lol
It says "endless" so you would think it was exactly that, but maybe they offer the links in case you alter the size of your sprockets later on, and are just covering all options?
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Interesting read:
https://www.sportbikes.net/forums/fz6-fz6r/450616-need-new-chain-want-endless.html (https://www.sportbikes.net/forums/fz6-fz6r/450616-need-new-chain-want-endless.html)
Yes I am the same as that fella. I don't mind taking off the swing arm as it will give me an excuse to re-grease it -- otherwise I wont be bothering to do so.
I will look into a tool to do a join so if not too much cost but I doubt I will be using it again anytime soon. Also I don't trust myself that I wont end up with an over tight join and then I am back in the same position where I started with a tight link, i always have to give things an extra stupid push.
And then there is the "is it safe" in the back of my mind - just like the fella on the link. But as he says I will just have to get over it and as pointed out far more powerful bikes get on just fine.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC)
Can't remember the exact reasoning, but i've read on here many times not to use an "extra" or "super" heavy weight chain on these bikes.
After reading that link i posted earlier it could just be that it's totally unnecessary and a bit overkill for this size of bike i s'pose?
That aside, that's a pretty good deal, as that package has got everything you need by the looks of it.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC)
Something to read,
https://www.mrcycles.com/endlesschainremoval (https://www.mrcycles.com/endlesschainremoval)
Thanks
I am thinking about that quiet F sprocket in your ebay link.
The link with the tool is useful and I do already own some digital vernier gauges. But it refers to an endless chain removal but replaced with a riveted chain.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC)
Can't remember the exact reasoning, but i've read on here many times not to use an "extra" or "super" heavy weight chain on these bikes.
After reading that link i posted earlier it could just be that it's totally unnecessary and a bit overkill for this size of bike i s'pose?
That aside, that's a pretty good deal, as that package has got everything you need by the looks of it.
I will do some research on the tool that comes with it.
But a 530 chain is the OEM for the bike.
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I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.
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… The sets you buy usually come with afam sprockets…
I guess things have changed. I’ve not bought an aftermarket C&S set for ages (the last 2 have been genuine Yamaha and I get 40k from them thanks to the oiler), but the sprockets always used to be JT.
I must look into getting a Scottoiler to be honest, it really doesn't bother me using the brush method at all, in fact i like to see exactly what's going on, but it would make more sense to do it automatically.
I've started using a thicker grade gear oil, is that still okay to use with these gadgets?
I use cheap car engine oil, film strength is easily sufficient and it’s less sticky so doesn’t hang on to grit. Easy to prime too, on the occasions when I forget to refill and run the reservoir dry.
I’d expect gear oil to work OK too, what ever you choose will take a bit of fiddling with the flow rate. Scottoil is thicker and stickier than 10W40… probably not very different to the gear oil you’re using.
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The thing with D.I.D not wanting to pair up with "cheese" sprockets is that D.I.D don't do the pairings - its the sellers and to be especially careful with ebay sellers.It seems that JT sprockets are the most used ones in the pairings. Don't think I need to go down the Renthals route and from what I can find the rear anodised wears quicker that a JT steel one, with the idea being that the Renthal one is lighter ( by about a pie ;) )
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I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.
That is pricecly why I want an Endless chain - if it exists.
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I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.
That is pricecly why I want an Endless chain - if it exists.
It will be endless, once the riveted link is in place. :rollin
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So it really was overkill by Yamaha.
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Another thing to mention, i spent decades using proper spray chain lube thinking it was the best thing since sliced bread, yet after trialing using engine oil instead put on with a paint brush i can really see and feel that the chain is in a much better condition than it ever was than when it was gunged up with lube.
Nothing sticks to it any more so it looks cleaner for starters and when the oil is very quickly applied with the paint brush on a warm chain i can immediately see that every single link is getting a good covering, whereas i can now understand that it would be fairly easy to miss just one link using the spray lube which in turn can then become that weakest link that you suddenly feel through your footpeg further down the line.
It was after reading you previous posts about this that I have decided to go down the same route with my new chain. I Have used can lube for 18 years. My riding is only in the dry = dust and grit in the air. Looking at the condition of my rear sprocket I should not be having a tight spot or wear on a chain with 22k miles..
But because it is white I can see where it is going
My lube here
(http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=17962.0;attach=20345;image)
(http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=17962.0;attach=20347;image)
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I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.
Yes, you can overtighten the link if you spread the pin too hard. I use vernier calipers, tighten the tool slowly and stop once the rivet link is the same width as the other links. Easy.
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So it really was overkill by Yamaha.
As our bike was mostly born from the parts bin, maybe they had a skip full of 530 chains to get rid of
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Can't stress how much my bike for example will suffer from being ridden all year round, compared to a "dry" bike......just no contest really, hence why your bike is looking in such good nick and you probably don't have half the issues an all weather bike would have.
The salt alone on wet roads when snow is expected could wipe a chain out if it's not kept properly maintained.
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I use the Afam Riviting tool, simple to use
I will get a photo of the front sprocket for peoples opinion as to if I really need to change it as I understand it wears quicker than the rear.
What is the tool you use?
This is the one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183609863691? (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183609863691?)
Thanks I will check them both out.
My local Yam dealer wants £60 to fit a chain that I supply
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I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.
Yes, you can overtighten the link if you spread the pin too hard. I use vernier calipers, tighten the tool slowly and stop once the rivet link is the same width as the other links. Easy.
I can totally understand people being hesitant on doing it themselves though as it's such an important part of the bike that needs to be spot on.
Ideally i s'pose it would be nice to have an old chain to practice on so that you can then be totally confident with everything.
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A decent rivetter would cost 50-60 quid, although the Afam one is cheaper and a good choice as it is just a rivetter whereas most sets include tools to assist the breaking of the chain, which an angle grinder will do. The link that was posted showing hollow and solid links need different tools to flare the link. Solid links are rarely chosen where a Whale is the best tool, as this is a hammered on link commonly used in race paddocks. There is a chain/sprocket kit using Ognibene sprockets which have the "silent" dampers on them. I deliberated over what to get quite recently, and eventually plumbed for a stock Yamaha front, which are quite expensive, and a steel Afam rear which is available in black, which I thought, looked good.
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This is a video of the tool that is supplied with the chain & sprocket kit from Ebay earlier.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cISYlybsTVU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cISYlybsTVU)
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This is a video of the tool that is supplied with the chain & sprocket kit from Ebay earlier.
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cISYlybsTVU[/url] ([url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cISYlybsTVU[/url])
That is very useful - thanks. So am I right in thinking that a hollow rivet plink is only hollow on the ends. Also it sounds like you can not over tighten with that tool - is that correct too.
It looks fiddly even on a bench
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I've never fitted a chain link myself, not on a motorbike anyway, so one question is can you get it very wrong or is it that straightforward to do?
Can you press the pin too much for example causing any issues?
As you can fully understand it's not an area that you really want to botch in any way or form as the aftermath could be disastrous.
Yes, you can overtighten the link if you spread the pin too hard. I use vernier calipers, tighten the tool slowly and stop once the rivet link is the same width as the other links. Easy.
I can totally understand people being hesitant on doing it themselves though as it's such an important part of the bike that needs to be spot on.
Ideally i s'pose it would be nice to have an old chain to practice on so that you can then be totally confident with everything.
I will have a spare chain - the one I am taking off and I can buy seperatly extra rivet links to practice with.
I have an angle grinder to remove the old chain
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Have bought stuff from Bike Torque Racing in the past, good firm to deal with.
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A decent rivetter would cost 50-60 quid, although the Afam one is cheaper and a good choice as it is just a rivetter whereas most sets include tools to assist the breaking of the chain, which an angle grinder will do. The link that was posted showing hollow and solid links need different tools to flare the link. Solid links are rarely chosen where a Whale is the best tool, as this is a hammered on link commonly used in race paddocks. There is a chain/sprocket kit using Ognibene sprockets which have the "silent" dampers on them. I deliberated over what to get quite recently, and eventually plumbed for a stock Yamaha front, which are quite expensive, and a steel Afam rear which is available in black, which I thought, looked good.
Thanks for clarifying the two different hollow and solid links.
Is the stock yam one the same with the orange section.
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The stock Yamaha chain would have been endless so would have had a solid link, on an assembly line it's far quicker to hang a complete chain on the bike before installing the swingarm, than join a chain later in the building process.
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The stock Yamaha chain would have been endless so would have had a solid link, on an assembly line it's far quicker to hang a complete chain on the bike before installing the swingarm, than join a chain later in the building process.
I meant the front sprocket as the stock Yam has an orange damper insert. And how much was it.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC)
I see that they also sell a C+s kit that looks like it is an endless chain. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-VX-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-/192219748219?hash=item2cc130977b (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-VX-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-/192219748219?hash=item2cc130977b) also comes with Afram sprockets. Think I will give them a call tomorrow.
Actually like the look of this "silent" front and rear kit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-Silent-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-/132618719461?hash=item1ee0b110e5 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-Silent-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-/132618719461?hash=item1ee0b110e5)
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The stock Yamaha chain would have been endless so would have had a solid link, on an assembly line it's far quicker to hang a complete chain on the bike before installing the swingarm, than join a chain later in the building process.
I meant the front sprocket as the stock Yam has an orange damper insert. And how much was it.
The original front sprocket is around £40.
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The stock Yamaha chain would have been endless so would have had a solid link, on an assembly line it's far quicker to hang a complete chain on the bike before installing the swingarm, than join a chain later in the building process.
I meant the front sprocket as the stock Yam has an orange damper insert. And how much was it.
The original front sprocket is around £40.
£40 :eek I like the look of the afram silent one in the kit which I think is £ 13 to buy on its own.So are people saying Afram are better or inferior to JT sprockets.
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I prefer this one for £13 maybe because it looks like the Yam one,
[size=78%]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-Ognibene-15T-Silent-Front-Sprocket-STD-Size/192224937034?hash=item2cc17fc44a:g:oIEAAOSwcCJckQf2 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-Ognibene-15T-Silent-Front-Sprocket-STD-Size/192224937034?hash=item2cc17fc44a:g:oIEAAOSwcCJckQf2)[/size]
I would buy a chain kit with the normal rear sprocket & maybe steel front then buy my choice of rubber shocked front sprocket if I couldn't buy as a kit.
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Can't remember what I paid for the stock front sprocket, but was pleasantly surprised that my Yam dealer had it in stock, although it's normally next day if ordered. Fowlers show it at £35 which sounds about right. I stuck with genuine as it had been on the bike for 14 years, 23k miles, and was in good nick when I removed it. No doubt I changed the chain/sprocket a bit too early but to my mind I'm good for another 20k+ and can forget about it other than lubing and any adjustment. I chose the Afam rear by design, as wanted steel and black in colour, which is an option. When I've bought chain/sprocket sets the usual make of sprocket has been JT or Sun and wouldn't consider them inferior and have used loads over the years. I liked the look of Renthal but for road use prefer steel so went for Afam as Rossi's got an Afam sticker on his bike :lol . What's good enough for him etc etc. Still ride like a twat though.
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I prefer this one for £13 maybe because it looks like the Yam one,
[size=78%]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-Ognibene-15T-Silent-Front-Sprocket-STD-Size/192224937034?hash=item2cc17fc44a:g:oIEAAOSwcCJckQf2 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-Ognibene-15T-Silent-Front-Sprocket-STD-Size/192224937034?hash=item2cc17fc44a:g:oIEAAOSwcCJckQf2)[/size]
I would buy a chain kit with the normal rear sprocket & maybe steel front then buy my choice of rubber shocked front sprocket if I couldn't buy as a kit.
That was exactly my thought too. I like the look of that one in your link. I am sure that if it is not in a kit they will put one together for me. So chain - normal rear and the yam - looking front. But I do like the look of those silent rear ones as they have prrredy looking slots cut out and in silver then I could get some stainless steel nuts to go with.
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No doubt I changed the chain/sprocket a bit too early but to my mind I'm good for another 20k+ and can forget about it other than lubing and any adjustment. I chose the Afam rear by design, as wanted steel and black in colour, which is an option.
I am only changing the chain cause it has a tight spot but the sprockets still look good to me at 22k, I will post some pictures of my front sprocket tomorrow and see what the general consensus is.
Has anyone had any issues in removing the nuts on the rear sprocket. I don't want to end up with exhaust nut/stud - gate :lol
I have heard on here about problems with brake disk nuts but what about the sprocket nuts.
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Also thinking about it - if I end up over tightening the link I could always grind it off and get a replacement link and have another go.
THANKS all for you input it is all helping me make my choice. :thumbup
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Never had a problem removing sprocket nuts, a ring spanner and a whack with a rubber mallet, sorted. A stainless set is about 20 quid. Exactly right if you were unlucky to over tighten the soft link. Gold ones are about £6.50. You'll be fine, good luck.
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I prefer this one for £13 maybe because it looks like the Yam one,
[size=78%]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-Ognibene-15T-Silent-Front-Sprocket-STD-Size/192224937034?hash=item2cc17fc44a:g:oIEAAOSwcCJckQf2 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-Ognibene-15T-Silent-Front-Sprocket-STD-Size/192224937034?hash=item2cc17fc44a:g:oIEAAOSwcCJckQf2)[/size]
I would buy a chain kit with the normal rear sprocket & maybe steel front then buy my choice of rubber shocked front sprocket if I couldn't buy as a kit.
That was exactly my thought too. I like the look of that one in your link. I am sure that if it is not in a kit they will put one together for me. So chain - normal rear and the yam - looking front. But I do like the look of those silent rear ones as they have prrredy looking slots cut out and in silver then I could get some stainless steel nuts to go with.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-Silent-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit/132618719461?fits=UKM_Make%3AYamaha%7CUKM_CCM%3A600%7CUKM_StreetName%3AFazer%7CUKM_Model%3AFZS&hash=item1ee0b110e5:g:G-QAAOSw0vJcQIxj (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-Silent-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit/132618719461?fits=UKM_Make%3AYamaha%7CUKM_CCM%3A600%7CUKM_StreetName%3AFazer%7CUKM_Model%3AFZS&hash=item1ee0b110e5:g:G-QAAOSw0vJcQIxj)
Just need a chain tool but as you say they may do a deal.
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Has anyone had any issues in removing the nuts on the rear sprocket. I don't want to end up with exhaust nut/stud - gate :lol
I have heard on here about problems with brake disk nuts but what about the sprocket nuts.
It’s steel on steel rather than steel into alloy like the brake discs and I never had a problem shifting the rear sprocket, but mine has been changed every 2 to 4 years. Yours on the other hand, if it’s been undisturbed for a couple of decades, might put up some resistance. I’d use a 6-sided socket as a precaution against rounding off.
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Has anyone had any issues in removing the nuts on the rear sprocket. I don't want to end up with exhaust nut/stud - gate :lol
I have heard on here about problems with brake disk nuts but what about the sprocket nuts.
It’s steel on steel rather than steel into alloy like the brake discs and I never had a problem shifting the rear sprocket, but mine has been changed every 2 to 4 years. Yours on the other hand, if it’s been undisturbed for a couple of decades, might put up some resistance. I’d use a 6-sided socket as a precaution against rounding off.
:agree Yeah, +1 for anything that needs that extra bit of oomph by using a 6 sided socket. As you are no doubt well aware there are some nuts, bolts and screws on these bikes that can seem very soft so what should be a simple straightforward job can immediately go bad on you. :'(
My mechanic did have trouble years ago with my front sprocket more or less welding itself on, and had to use heat to get it off, and as mentioned being an original after 20 odd years untouched it would be Loctited on so will no doubt also give you something to think about as well.
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+1 if in doubt, use 6 sided.
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Thanks for the 6 sided tip.
So I gets out my Halfords Advanced Professional 1/2 inch socket set out and its all 12point :(
I also have the same Advanced Professional set but in 1/4inch but they are all 6 point. Whats that all about :rolleyes
Would my 1/4 drive be up to the job, I do have a 1/4 inch to 1/2inch adapter then I can use my 1/2inch wrench
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Thanks for the 6 sided tip.
So I gets out my Halfords Advanced Professional 1/2 inch socket set out and its all 12point :(
I also have the same Advanced Professional set but in 1/4inch but they are all 6 point. Whats that all about :rolleyes
Would my 1/4 drive be up to the job, I do have a 1/4 inch to 1/2inch adapter then I can use my 1/2inch wrench
It’s not ideal, but only one way to find out :smash
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Thanks for the 6 sided tip.
So I gets out my Halfords Advanced Professional 1/2 inch socket set out and its all 12point :(
I also have the same Advanced Professional set but in 1/4inch but they are all 6 point. Whats that all about :rolleyes
Would my 1/4 drive be up to the job, I do have a 1/4 inch to 1/2inch adapter then I can use my 1/2inch wrench
It’s not ideal, but only one way to find out :smash
I have decided to invest in some 6 sided sockets in 1/2inch before I do the job. I have started a post on the general section as It may help others better there.
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Just had a look at the swing arm nut. Will a normal socket get in there as it looks very tight between the nut and the wall of the hole. And what size socket do I need for it.
Also what size socket do I need for the front sprocket nut.
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For general bike maintenance I've always used 3/8" drive sockets or 1/4" for anything a bit dainty. Mind you the front sprocket nut will be 1/2" drive on a breaker bar and no doubt a length of tube over the bar to increase leverage. A length of 3x2 timber wrapped in some cloths through the back wheel usually does the trick. I'll be in the garage later and let you know the socket size.
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For general bike maintenance I've always used 3/8" drive sockets or 1/4" for anything a bit dainty. Mind you the front sprocket nut will be 1/2" drive on a breaker bar and no doubt a length of tube over the bar to increase leverage. A length of 3x2 timber wrapped in some cloths through the back wheel usually does the trick. I'll be in the garage later and let you know the socket size.
Thanks. I was hoping to be able to use a normal 1/2inch socket ratchet - all-be-it with a bar over it.
So maybe I should invest in a breaker bar. This one worth getting do you think
https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-drive-flexible-head-power-bar-24/1186k (https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-drive-flexible-head-power-bar-24/1186k)
Or this.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/pro77-1-2in-drive-breaker-bar/ (https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/pro77-1-2in-drive-breaker-bar/)
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Had a quick search on the forum in case 600 and 1000 front sprocket nuts are different. Looks like yours requires a 32mm socket and make sure the nut is the 12mm thick one, if not it should be changed. Also renew the tab washer, personally I'd use genuine Yamaha, as the tabs on some aftermarket ones are known to break as soon as they're bent over.
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Machine Mart ones cheaper. Clarke stuff is ok. What part of the country are you in, I could lend you all this stuff if you're a reasonable distance.
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Had a quick search on the forum in case 600 and 1000 front sprocket nuts are different. Looks like yours requires a 32mm socket and make sure the nut is the 12mm thick one, if not it should be changed. Also renew the tab washer, personally I'd use genuine Yamaha, as the tabs on some aftermarket ones are known to break as soon as they're bent over.
Yep I know about the nut issue and have already brought the upgraded one a couple of years ago. I have just put the verniers across it and its 31.87mm but I forgot to measure the old 9mm one when I had the cover off a few mins ago
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Machine Mart ones cheaper. Clarke stuff is ok. What part of the country are you in, I could lend you all this stuff if you're a reasonable distance.
Thanks for I am in the Midlands, bit too far.Just noticed that the machine mart clarke breaker is 18inch but the screwfix hilka one is 24inch
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If you can wait get individual sockets & breaker bar like silverline off Ebay, make sure you get the right size drive for the 32mm front sprocket nut as direct to the breaker without adaptor is better. Are you still going to remove the swing arm then?.
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Had the cover off for some pictures and the metal looks fine to me but the plastic damper is really breaking up - bits of it stuck in the lube gunge.
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If you can wait get individual sockets & breaker bar like silverline off Ebay, make sure you get the right size drive for the 32mm front sprocket nut as direct to the breaker without adaptor is better. Are you still going to remove the swing arm then?.
Yes I will make sure its a 1/2 inch socket direct to the breaker. I will have a look at ebay but sometimes the extra cost of heavy item post makes it the same as getting from my local screfix.
I have just spoken to Bike Tourque Racing and they tell me that all of their chains - at least D.I.D anyway are supplied open ended with the relevant joining link so looks like I can do it all without taking off the swing arm but I cant help thinking I should anyway to re grease it after 21 years - 22k dry mileage
Also they can no longer get the Ognibene chain joining tool but instead it will be a Afram one
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There is a video on how to use the afram onehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skX2GhrB2Oc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skX2GhrB2Oc) , the front sprocket is a bit hooked but as your going to replace front/rear & chain all's good, just make sure before you remove anything swing arm/ chain or sprockets get the front sprocket nut undone replace new front sprocket & washer/nut before removing old chain/rear wheel, there are a couple of ways to use the chain to remove the stubborn nut if you have never done it before.
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Brilliant thanks.
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Also going to need some loctite 620 for the front sprok
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Also going to need some loctite 620 for the front sprok
I would & have used blue 243 loctite as this locks & is easier if removal is required in the future.
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Also going to need some loctite 620 for the front sprok
I would & have used blue 243 loctite as this locks & is easier if removal is required in the future.
That is cheaper and can get in smaller bottles but the official OEM maintenance guide says 620. I think partly as 620 is heat resistant as well as being Focing strong
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The longer the breaker bar the better. As suggested if you're not in a tearing hurry ebay would be your best bet.
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I use a 1.5" piece of aluminium scrap tube I found at work years ago, works a treat for leverage.
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Think I will get myself a 600mm one which is £5 more than a 450mm one. I have bits of pipe but nothing very strong.
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The longer the breaker bar the better. As suggested if you're not in a tearing hurry ebay would be your best bet.
Been looking at some ebay ones but for £10 incl del I am a bit dubious of the quality. £4 of the cost must be the post.
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there are a couple of ways to use the chain to remove the stubborn nut if you have never done it before.
Would one of those be to remove the wheel and re insert the spindle and pin the chain to the spindle with a screwdriver. But what is the second chain way.
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there are a couple of ways to use the chain to remove the stubborn nut if you have never done it before.
Would one of those be to remove the wheel and re insert the spindle and pin the chain to the spindle with a screwdriver. But what is the second chain way.
The first way is to get someone to apply the rear brake while you undo the nut easier with a helper but can be done on your own & the second way is to say put a piece of suitable timber say 2x4 from the right hand side between the wheel spokes resting on each side swing arm so the wheel locks on the wood which locks the chain so you can undo the nut. So when you torque up the new sprocket nut put the piece of wood under the swing arm locking the chain with the spoke of wheel. When you've done that bend the washer up but don't do it on opposite flats do it on two adjoining flats, like L shape. Hope that makes sense. I suggested Loctite 243 because it is suitable for dismantling with normal hand tools if required in the future. (http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif)
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there are a couple of ways to use the chain to remove the stubborn nut if you have never done it before.
Would one of those be to remove the wheel and re insert the spindle and pin the chain to the spindle with a screwdriver. But what is the second chain way.
The first way is to get someone to apply the rear brake while you undo the nut easier with a helper but can be done on your own & the second way is to say put a piece of suitable timber say 2x4 from the right hand side between the wheel spokes resting on each side swing arm so the wheel locks on the wood which locks the chain so you can undo the nut. So when you torque up the new sprocket nut put the piece of wood under the swing arm locking the chain with the spoke of wheel. When you've done that bend the washer up but don't do it on opposite flats do it on two adjoining flats, like L shape. Hope that makes sense. I suggested Loctite 243 because it is suitable for dismantling with normal hand tools if required in the future. ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif[/url])
Thanks. Been looking at del boys garage vids
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Some peoples aren't to keen on them but I find them to be a good source of info to pass on here not fazer specific but gives a good idea to help others who may be new to bikes.
Did you decide on which chain kit to go with, one with the silent rear sprocket?.
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Defiantly will be a gold D.I.D XV chain and the Ognibene silent front but still thinking about the silent rear, going to do some reading on it. I plan on using gear oil and a brush as a lube regime but just wondering if the rubber ring on the rear would just trap stuff. Or if because of it oil would pool a little and the result would be more fling - rather than sort of tracking across the sprocket face.
This is a good view of the rear. I just like the shape holes in it and that it is silver, fancy it with stainless steel nuts but can not find out if it has a treatment of if its just going to be rusty steel down the linehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fk7OVEj8gqQ
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Defiantly will be a gold D.I.D XV chain and the Ognibene silent front but still thinking about the silent rear, going to do some reading on it. I plan on using gear oil and a brush as a lube regime but just wondering if the rubber ring on the rear would just trap stuff. Or if because of it oil would pool a little and the result would be more fling - rather than sort of tracking across the sprocket face.
This is a good view of the rear. I just like the shape holes in it and that it is silver, fancy it with stainless steel nuts but can not find out if it has a treatment of if its just going to be rusty steel down the linehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fk7OVEj8gqQ
Eh?
You're overthinking this a bit too much.
Paint the chain, wipe it with a rag, then if you really want to, put the bike in gear on the centre stand with a tiny bit of throttle and fling off any excess oil before you even go anywhere!
Sorted.
Dunno where you're even going with all this "silent" stuff, it's a motorbike not a boring electric car.
What you need is some obscenely noisy slip on exhaust to piss your neighbour's off and cover up all unknown suspicious noises coming from wherever, it's a tried and tested method that's worked seamlessly for decades. :thumbup
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:agree
A decent exhaust fixes loads of "issues" you think your bike might have.
That and regular basic maintenance checks of the essentials.
Your bike will always make some noises as it's a shed load of moving parts all whizzing around, moving up & down or rattling against each other and, on mine at least, they're 15+ years old in a lot of cases.
....and we know how much trouble 15 year olds can be ;)
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:agree
A decent exhaust fixes loads of "issues" you think your bike might have.
That and regular basic maintenance checks of the essentials.
Your bike will always make some noises as it's a shed load of moving parts all whizzing around, moving up & down or rattling against each other and, on mine at least, they're 15+ years old in a lot of cases.
....and we know how much trouble 15 year olds can be ;)
His bike is not even a teenager any more.....it'll probably get married soon. :lol
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Eh?
You're overthinking this a bit too much.
That's what I do.
I like the idea of the silent front as that is similar to the OEM. But the rear silent I don't think is necessary but it has nice fancy holes and a pretty silver colour and is cheaper (i think ) than paying for a fancy Renthal or something.
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Ordered this in the End https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS-600-S-Fazer-98-03-DID-JT-Quiet-Chain-And-Sprocket-Kit-P1/283334074132?hash=item41f806df14:g:eH0AAOSwm79ckjyC)
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Just a pre warning before you think something is wrong, when you fit a new D.I.D. chain it will make a buzzing sound for a while on the plastic chain guide.
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Just a pre warning before you think something is wrong, when you fit a new D.I.D. chain it will make a buzzing sound for a while on the plastic chain guide.
:thumbup
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@darrsi is any gear oil ok like this https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/comma-gear-oil-ep80w-90-gl4-mineral-1l/p/0077164?nst=0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm72N88j44QIV8QDTCh2tfgTMEAQYASABEgJBHPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds (https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/comma-gear-oil-ep80w-90-gl4-mineral-1l/p/0077164?nst=0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm72N88j44QIV8QDTCh2tfgTMEAQYASABEgJBHPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
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@darrsi is any gear oil ok like this https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/comma-gear-oil-ep80w-90-gl4-mineral-1l/p/0077164?nst=0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm72N88j44QIV8QDTCh2tfgTMEAQYASABEgJBHPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds (https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/comma-gear-oil-ep80w-90-gl4-mineral-1l/p/0077164?nst=0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm72N88j44QIV8QDTCh2tfgTMEAQYASABEgJBHPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
Yeah, truth is it still looks like oil and is still runny, so it's no different to look at, but the figures say it's heavier than normal so should stick around a little better.
Always apply after a ride when the chain's still warm.
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@darrsi is any gear oil ok like this https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/comma-gear-oil-ep80w-90-gl4-mineral-1l/p/0077164?nst=0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm72N88j44QIV8QDTCh2tfgTMEAQYASABEgJBHPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds (https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/comma-gear-oil-ep80w-90-gl4-mineral-1l/p/0077164?nst=0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIm72N88j44QIV8QDTCh2tfgTMEAQYASABEgJBHPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
Yeah, truth is it still looks like oil and is still runny, so it's no different to look at, but the figures say it's heavier than normal should stick around a little better.
Always apply after a ride when the chain's still warm.
:thumbup
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Hi Sharpie.
I use the same grade stuff from Halfords:-
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/gearbox-oil/halfords-gear-oil-ep-80w-90-gl-4-1l (https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/gearbox-oil/halfords-gear-oil-ep-80w-90-gl-4-1l)
It works a treat.
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Here it is. less than 24 hours after ordering. Good service so far from Bike Torque Racing. In place of the tin of gunge lube I asked for an extra link so if I get it wrong I have another chance.
Any know the thread size on the rear sprocket nuts as I am going to get some stainless ones. I think the socket fit is 14mm
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M10 Thread size with a bit of threadlock. (http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif)
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Got mine from Racebolt UK on the bay.£21.60 delivered.
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Got mine from Racebolt UK on the bay.£21.60 delivered.
You know what I had them in my basket and thought I would double check here for new posts, went back and brought them, thanks. £24 now.
I did notice that some people were selling stainless steel "rear sprocket nuts" but they were just normal s/s flange nuts. And the difference is - from what I can see that the nut on a "proper " nut is taller and covers all of the stud and also the flange is thicker. I think using a shorter nut and leaving stud sticking out looks crap. Also the finish on the cheap normal ones looks cheap Chinese.
Stupid price for 6 nuts but the sprocket is silver so don't want to re fit my manky 21 year old nuts back
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Got this lube from a local motor factors thought the smaller bottle will still last me years. Also got a small squeeze source bottle to apply to the chain. £1.09p
The oil says EP90 and GL-5 - so is that thicker than 80-90 Gl-4
My thumb is double jointed by the way :D
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Good explanation of the different grades here:-
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil)
Scroll down a bit to the API section.
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Useful / interesting.
"GL-5 has a lower coefficient of friction due to the higher concentration of EP additives over GL-4, and thus synchros can not engage as effectively."
The the higher concentration of EP additives is not going to harm my o (x) rings is it ?
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Used to have a problem sourcing GL5 when I had a GS1150, as that is the specified grade for the gearbox and diff. Strangely enough the only stockist near me was a Honda dealer.
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Going to add a link to some info about the silent JT front sprocket - maybe it will help others http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=23903.msg297326#msg297326 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=23903.msg297326#msg297326)
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Going to add a link to some info about the silent JT front sprocket - maybe it will help others [url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=23903.msg297326#msg297326[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=23903.msg297326#msg297326[/url])
Worth buying, as they are only around a pound more expensive than standard code is JTF513RB
If you do go the DID chain route buy from a reputable source as there are fakes cropping up and are difficult to tell apart until they break of are worn out in 2000 mile.
I have used AFAM, DID, Regina and Izumi chains over the last 40odd years without any issues. I have also used JT sprockets, Ognibene sprockets and AFAM sprockets without issues.
Generally I change the front sprocket every 8 to 10000miles and chains and rear sprockets last around the 40000 mile mark, but then I also have a Scotoiler fitted which helps.
I presently have a DID HD O Ring on the 1000 which has 23000 miles on it and replaced the front sprocket at the 10 and 20000 mile mark
Last chain I fitted to the 600 was Yamaha OEM as I got a NOS kit for £120.
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If you do go the DID chain route buy from a reputable source as there are fakes cropping up and are difficult to tell apart until they break of are worn out in 2000 mile.
Its in my post a couple of posts back #103 with a picture
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This may sound a step too far but - here we go.
For chain lube I will be using gear oil but I have seen that some is a charcoal/lead colour and I have a nice gold chain. I have an unopened bottle of Carlube EP90 GL-5 that I might take back and swap but need to make sure I am buying a nice golden oil and not one that looks like it has been in a tractor for 20 years
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This may sound a step too far but - here we go.
For chain lube I will be using gear oil but I have seen that some is a charcoal/lead colour and I have a nice gold chain. I have an unopened bottle of Carlube EP90 GL-5 that I might take back and swap but need to make sure I am buying a nice golden oil and not one that looks like it has been in a tractor for 20 years
Doubt you'll notice the oil once it's on.
You should try some oil on that thumb Sharpie :lol
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This may sound a step too far but - here we go.
For chain lube I will be using gear oil but I have seen that some is a charcoal/lead colour and I have a nice gold chain. I have an unopened bottle of Carlube EP90 GL-5 that I might take back and swap but need to make sure I am buying a nice golden oil and not one that looks like it has been in a tractor for 20 years
Doubt you'll notice the oil once it's on.
You should try some oil on that thumb Sharpie :lol
Manley working hands - what can I say.
So what about my question earlier.
"GL-5 has a lower coefficient of friction due to the higher concentration of EP additives over GL-4, and thus synchros can not engage as effectively."
The the higher concentration of EP additives is not going to harm my o (x) rings is it ?
I have found the data sheet for it
9.1. Information on basic physical and chemical properties Appearance Clear liquid.
Colour Brown.
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Thought this looked interesting http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtZyNbiZaao (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WtZyNbiZaao)
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It would have been interesting to see the difference in torque needed.
You can’t judge the degree of oxidation by looking at how many bubbles are in the oil.
Oil getting flung off the gears onto the casings is a useful way to transfer heat and get any hardened metal lost from the gears out of harm’s way to the bottom of the sump.
But I guess in some situations that GL6 may be ideal. :lol
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Oil getting flung off the gears onto the casings is a useful way to transfer heat and get any hardened metal lost from the gears out of harm’s way to the bottom of the sump.
Yep been doing some reading on gear oil and heat transfer was a useful property. But my thought was for bike chains
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Life is just so much easier when you use chain lube! (http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/cheesy.gif)
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Starting to get some tools arriving now. Brought this just incase the front sprocket nut wants to start a fight :lol
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Bet you can't wait to get started. (http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif)
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A few weeks ago after my MOT I resolved not to ride it again until I had it sorted. Will be nice not to have that knocking through the left peg that I have been trying to ignore.
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More bits arrived
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The rear sprocket is handed but 95% sure that the milled face faces out and the smooth face faces in to the wheel but just wanted to double check.Photos here
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The rear sprocket is handed but 95% sure that the milled face faces out and the smooth face faces in to the wheel but just wanted to double check.Photos here
I think it's top pick with JT stamped on it faces out.
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I think it's top pick with JT stamped on it faces out.
+1 Deffo
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Yes it does look like the OEM one when looked at that way round.
I have another question. Would people remove the grease that the new chain is coated in, I plan on using gear oil as my lube regime as spray wax is sticky and attracts grit and that is just like what is on the new chain.
Im thinking a few wipes over with a paraffin coated rag and not a massive scrub in a bucket of paraffin - although I could do that before it gos on the bike.
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Yes it does look like the OEM one when looked at that way round.
I have another question. Would people remove the grease that the new chain is coated in, I plan on using gear oil as my lube regime as spray wax is sticky and attracts grit and that is just like what is on the new chain.
Im thinking a few wipes over with a paraffin coated rag and not a massive scrub in a bucket of paraffin - although I could do that before it gos on the bike.
If you want to clean it off before it will be easier to do before you put it on as you can flex the links, I have never used chain wax only lube on O- ring chains & oil on standard chains when chain wax/ lube didn't exist & I can tell you grit sticks to oil & you have to apply more often than chain lube as it flings off more so. Paraffin soaked rag would be fine. (http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif)
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Yes it does look like the OEM one when looked at that way round.
I have another question. Would people remove the grease that the new chain is coated in, I plan on using gear oil as my lube regime as spray wax is sticky and attracts grit and that is just like what is on the new chain.
Im thinking a few wipes over with a paraffin coated rag and not a massive scrub in a bucket of paraffin - although I could do that before it gos on the bike.
If you want to clean it off before it will be easier to do before you put it on as you can flex the links, I have never used chain wax only lube on O- ring chains & oil on standard chains when chain wax/ lube didn't exist & I can tell you grit sticks to oil & you have to apply more often than chain lube as it flings off more so. Paraffin soaked rag would be fine. ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif[/url])
Thanks. I have only ever used chain wax and after 22k miles 18k in the dry and am having a few stiff links so I want to give gear oil a try on a - never waxed chain. I will see how I get on.
I hope to get it done this week.
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New sprocket and stainless nuts on. I couldn't help myself but to paint the ends of the sprocket studs.
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Job now complete. Thanks to everyone who has helped.I wiped off most of the grease on the chain and put on some gear oil and first run out shows some fling off of the gear oil and the yellow grease still on the inside edge of the links. Don't like it down the side of my tyre. Will give it a few miles and see how it go's no doubt I put too much on. :rolleyes
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Job now complete. Thanks to everyone who has helped.I wiped off most of the grease on the chain and put on some gear oil and first run out shows some fling off of the gear oil and the yellow grease still on the inside edge of the links. Don't like it down the side of my tyre. Will give it a few miles and see how it go's no doubt I put too much on. :rolleyes
Don't forget to put it on AFTER a run so the heat of the chain draws in the oil more easily.
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Who wants my loctite 620. I brought a 50ml bottle for the front sprocket and probably will not have use for it again, but just in case I do I have decanted about 7 ml to keep for myself.If anyone wants the rest they can have it for free. I will start here so that I am offering it to the main people who have helped me with this but if no one in here needs it then I will post it in the general section.