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Messages - The Male Whale
1
« on: 03 August 2022, 06:19:17 pm »
Hi Mike, Just wondering if the radial MC would/could fit my 2001 FJR1300. Uses same Blue Spot calipers - FA 252 HH pads etc No big deal if you don't know but you seem to know most things..... Whale
2
« on: 03 June 2022, 11:28:52 am »
As it started after a coolant change I would suspect the water pump has failed or has got a foreign object in there.
3
« on: 09 August 2020, 08:54:53 am »
Looks OK - when was air filter last changed?
Whale
4
« on: 28 February 2019, 07:48:22 am »
After market clutch cables are shite and stretch to buggery. Useless after a day.
Whale
5
« on: 01 November 2018, 09:35:05 am »
1. Yes. 2. Probably not - hose looks profiled. 3. Not really.
Look at the obvious stuff first - the rubber pipe and/or jubilee clip is far more likely to have failed than the metal pipe.
You are going to have to strip it to see whats wrong before ordering parts.....
If not confident, there will be someone on here close to you that will help out - where are you?
Whale
6
« on: 31 October 2018, 04:49:38 pm »
Simple job - start with tightening the jubilee clip at the offending joint to see if that fixes it or remove it and look for the split in the hose.
If it is the hose, get a new one and two new jubilee clips and swap em out. Buy generic jubilees not the Yam ones and save £'s
Make sure to top up the cooling system after though (it will dump coolant - have bowl handy!) OR (and better) drain it down fully, flush, refill and "burp"
30 min job for a competent spanner twirler.
Whale
7
« on: 12 September 2018, 09:42:01 am »
Sorry but a second look seems to show I was looking in wrong place!
Is that a crack I can see in centre of pic? Looks about an inch.
If so - serious!
Whale
8
« on: 10 September 2018, 11:58:45 pm »
Looks like road grime rather than a leak to me?
Give it a good clean with gunk or paraffin and see what happens but I wouldn't be concerned.
Whale
9
« on: 04 September 2018, 07:08:23 pm »
A pic would help diagnosis.
Whale
10
« on: 10 August 2018, 02:59:41 pm »
Get a meter on the battery; - Check cold voltage. - minimum 12.5 v
- Check cranking voltage- minimum 10 v
- Check voltage at 4000 rpm - minimum 14 v.
Report back. Whale
11
« on: 20 April 2018, 08:50:05 am »
What does the battery drop to during cranking?
From the figures you give it sounds OK.
Whale
12
« on: 18 April 2018, 06:15:12 pm »
Had to buy a second hand set of clocks.
No easy way to soften the blow - we spent 3 or 4 days solid on it in the workshop.
Was a low mileage bike too.....
Whale
13
« on: 30 March 2018, 05:45:41 pm »
Issues? What issues? The guy said he wanted to change the batteries in the fob. Whale
14
« on: 28 February 2018, 08:31:15 am »
Isolate which cylinder is misfiring through use of those infra red thermometers off ebay.
Switch the plugs around from that cylinder to a "good" one, if the misfire moves then it's the plug.
If not, swap the stick coils and see if that moves it.
If not that, swap the injector around.
If that doesn't do it then you have an ECU fault.
Whale
15
« on: 07 September 2017, 01:57:02 pm »
Is there an adjuster in the middle of the cable and/or at the throttle end?
If you are solely relying on the adjuster at the throttle then I think that is where you are going wrong.
Whale
16
« on: 02 September 2017, 09:49:55 am »
Should come on briefly when ignition switched on.
Tank is 21 litres (although I did squeeze in 22.01 on one occasion) so 15 isn't going to trigger it.
Whale
17
« on: 31 August 2017, 05:34:43 pm »
I have one.
I think it is L/H but will check.
Where are you??
Whale
18
« on: 02 June 2017, 09:54:06 am »
So been out, riding past 2 days, and its got power and seems ok, however literally put the bike away an hour ago, go to turn it over to check some things, and withing 5-6 seconds the battery is buggered, relay clicking like mad.
I have ridden for an hour or so before coming home so it should be charged i would think
I measured the voltage ant its 12.4 ish, so seems fine, but as soon as i touch the started, drops to 0v very quickly...
was reading around about electrical gremilins, http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=15299.0
I wonder if this is all due to the battery not having the ability to turn the crank over, and supply good sparks etc
Not tested the voltages of the reg/rec or the battery when it runs, as waiting for the damn thing to charge, if it ever will
how can it read 12.4v and then not work i.e. drain to 0v when i touch it..????
Cos it's fucked! You have at least one cell gone down. Plenty of Voltage, no amperage. Get a new battery then test the charging circuit to ensure it's not the reg/rec that has taken the battery out. Whale
19
« on: 19 April 2017, 09:26:49 am »
That's why they are fitted with seals....... Whale
20
« on: 16 April 2017, 03:41:19 pm »
Try a leak down test next.
Whale
21
« on: 11 April 2017, 09:16:12 am »
The rattle is worse when the carbs need a balance.
Whale
22
« on: 05 March 2017, 11:11:48 pm »
Valve clearances.
I will add an explanation why:
Adding oil to the bores will put up the compression by temporarily sealing the gap around the rings.
It won't seal a leaky valve caused by poor clearances.
Whale
23
« on: 23 February 2017, 12:47:04 am »
EBC or a used OE is the way forward.
The secret to removal IMO is to ensure you have a quality Allen bit fitment for a 3/9 or 1/2" drive rachet and tackle it that way.
I have always avoided impact wrenchs or, god forbid, a windy gun.
I have ever needed heat or penetrating oil.
Fit new pads as a matter of course and properly service the caliper while you are at it.
Whale
24
« on: 17 January 2017, 12:06:03 am »
If the fuel pump isn't priming every (or most) times, I would have a look there.
I should rattle a few times every time the ignition is turned on after it has stood a while.
May be getting a slow gravity fill but not enough to run properly.
whale
25
« on: 09 January 2017, 03:58:48 pm »
Sticky floats???
How much runs out when you open the carb drain?
Whale
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