could be a couple of things. Have you had your wheels balanced? has a weight fell off? Wheel bearings could be worn, oil degraded in the forks or headstock bearings. All these are easy enough to do. headstock bearings are easy enough their is just a lot of disassembly but pretty straight forward..

Open up the speedo unit and you will find it will have dry solder joints on the connector block pins on the board. Reflow the solder and you will find that will cure it. For preventive medicine for future, get some thin self adhesive rubber strips and when you put the clock housing back together, run the rubber strip around the joins, to make it completely air tight. Stops moisture getting in. Have to use a bit of force once the rubber strip is in place to put the housing back together, but it will help..

Have you checked the bracket under the tank that the fuel pump attatches too?? It may not be the tank? When you are tightening it down, the bracket underneath may be the thing vibrating and if it's touching the tank, it will vibrate through it?

Contacted a ebay member regarding what bulbs I needed as could only find pairs of the same bulb but didn't want to buy 2 sets. Explained I needed a H1 bulb and a H4 bulb in one set. Said he could do it for me no problem. Cost me £30 and was able collect to make sure I got what I needed. Paid cash bought them home and fitted them both. The H4 bulb was just a straight swap over into the headlight bracket but the h1 bulb was a bit more Fettling as the standard H1 bulb slots into a housing which in turn then connects to the wiring block. The HID H1 bulb is straight through with direct contact to the ballast and the bulb is to skinny for the spring clamp to hold the bulb in housing.


So had to make a bracket to hold the HID in place. Nothing better than the original housing. Drilled out the contact pins and and hollowed it out and the HID bulb slotted in. Cut a gap in the housing so the cables would sit in, slid it all back through the rubber cover, used Velcro on both ballasts and igniters and secured under the infill panel. All nice and neat. Voila daylight beams at night.. Will upload pics tomorrow. Hope this makes sense to someone who may upgrade theirs..

If the wheel tightens up after torquing the wheel nut then you'll find the wheel bearings are shot which does happen after riding in winter due to salt on the roads eventually getting into the bearings. Cheap and easy enough to replace all the bearings, wheel and sprocket. And whilst at it I would also replace the front ones aswell. Good idea to strip the rear brake caliper and overhaul that aswell..

By the sounds of it its just your carbs need a good clean. Stick some silcoline carb cleaner through the fuel and see if that helps? K&N is definately the way to go. if you are getting the pop over run you are over fueling. You need to check everything, Exhaust all tight and sealed, All rubbers not split, breather pipes all clear, fuel lines all clear, air filter clean, carbs clean. Mine over runs and pops on deceleration but that is what ive set mine up to do. As for the 100mile a tank, this isnt that bad, could be better but I average around 110 mile per tank. I do get more if motorway travelling but streets you dont get as much as the book says..

Fluctuation on carbs is normal but not that excessive. Blockage in air intake, carbs, breathers? Cracked rubbers, pipes? or try just resetting the TPS? mine jumps between 1250 & 1270. If all seems ok try changing plugs and air filter..

quick tip to try in seconds, take the hte leads of each plug and spray wd40 in each end. let them soak for a couple of minutes then put them back on the plugs. Could be simply corrosion or dirt built up in the plug caps.

Now you've mentioned moving arms backwards or forwards and feels unsafe it could still be the front end and not engine..


Possibly headstock bearings have degraded?? Even if you don't feel any notching, if the bearings are degraded it can make the centre shaft loose which will vibrate up and through the handlebars..


And consider the forks. If the oil has degraded it won't damp correctly which will make it feel light and loose when moving as the front end will rise whilst accelerating but when riding the weight will make the front end sink and every mm of road surface will be felt all the way through the handlebars. Even if not actually felt it will be harmonic which will cause dead fingers and hands?


Very easy to change the oil in the forks. No special knowledge or tools are needed. All you need is a 19mm (spanner) ,socket for the top nuts, Allen key for spindle lock and stantion clamps, 12mm socket (spanner) for brake caliper bolts and Allen key for damper nut, flat screwdriver, small drill bit and small drill..Fork oil, oil seals, dust covers(if yours are gone) and new springs if want to upgrade. And about 1hr of time..sounds a lot but seriously it is easy to do and saves money..

I had a similar problem when I first had mine but after a few tweaks I don't have any kind of vibration in the handlebars whatsoever.. I'll list a things you could possibly look at and even alter to make it feel better..


Front and rear wheel bearings? Is their any play or when you spin the wheels is their any clugging? Changed all mine out for industrial machine bearings with steel seals instead of rubber/plastic ones( seems to be smoother)


Wheel spacers, worn, cracked? Spindles worn or dirty?


Fork oil degraded? If degraded in one side more than the other will throw the balance of the front end off? I upgraded my springs to hyper pro to stop the diving and change the oil in them every 6 month


Front tyre uneven wear? Throwing the balance off again?


Wheels balanced? Should really have the balance checked every time you have anew tyre put on but believe it or not this is overlooked quite a lot?


Handlebars bent? Again balance is out?


Front spindle over taught which could crush against the bearings and would cause a lot of friction resulting in vibration? 67nm is perfect.


Brake caliper piston jammed up and not retracting so pads are wearing uneven, again causing too much friction causing vibration??


Just a few thoughts for you..

Thanks. Will measure it up when I pick it up from storage..

Have you done a compression test yet? Sounds like it could be a shot piston ring (or more than one) to me.

Spot on. Either rings have gone, or crack/hole in piston head..Fuel shouldnt be getting through to your oil to that extent. Ive bought yet another Fazer cheap which was suffering with similar problems. Engine out, head stripped, pistons checked and yes piston 3 was cracked on the head. Not very common but unfortunately it does happen.. Simple enough job to change the piston but I just changed all 4 with new rings.. Runs a dream now.. Just 1000 other jobs left to do on it...

Does anyone know if the r6 speedo 97-02 will work with a fazer 98? The connector block looks same size but the only difference is, their are 10 pins top and bottom of the fazer clocks but only 6 are used at the top and 9 at the bottom... The R6 has 8 pins at top and 8 at bottom on the clocks.. The only difference I could actually think of would be, the fazer has 2 indicator lights and oil low level light and the R6 only has 1 indicator light and no level light... Obviously I know abit of wiring may be involved but will the digital speedo work and tachometer as not sure if sensor are different??


Thanks in advance for any info