Date: 03-06-24  Time: 06:53 am
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Author Topic: Camchain replacement  (Read 15245 times)

unfazed

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Re: Camchain replacement
« Reply #50 on: 11 August 2013, 06:47:37 pm »
It does not matter on the Fazers as long as the T on the rotor lines up with the mating surface of the crankcases.
This will have pistons 1 and 4 at the TDC and pistons 2 and 3 at BDC,then when you install the cams and time them correctly they will set numbe one cylinder to compression stroke.
 
 
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humbucker88

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Re: Camchain replacement
« Reply #51 on: 11 August 2013, 06:59:27 pm »
Just make sure the mark on the generator lines up with the crankcase. Also...make sure you're not 180 out, pop a long screwdriver down cylinder 1 to make sure its at the top if you need to check.
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Deefer666

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Re: Camchain replacement
« Reply #52 on: 11 August 2013, 07:04:16 pm »
Quote
Bought the endless one, split it and used the split link to rejoin it.
Deefer666, out of curosity, how did you manage to do it for that price? :eek Parts alone would come to close to £200 and add labour to that. You must have a queue wating at your door with prices like that.


I used some excellent imported pattern parts from Germany, this brings the cost of the parts right down and I use German parts because they have TUV so no chance of shite quality ching-chong parts that some aftermarket companies supply in this country. Also I have been working on mainly FZS's for years now so to take an engine out and strip it does not take me half the time that it would take someone else. PLUS when I set my workshop up from day one it was always my intention to work at affordable prices (OK I'll never get rich, but I'll always have work)
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garyb

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Re: Camchain replacement
« Reply #53 on: 11 August 2013, 07:10:09 pm »
Quote from: humbucker88 on 11 August 2013, 06:59:27 pm
Just make sure the mark on the generator lines up with the crankcase. Also...make sure you're not 180 out, pop a long screwdriver down cylinder 1 to make sure its at the top if you need to check.

 Roger that - that's what I was afraid of (being 180 deg out) I will check that no.1 is on the compression stroke and at tdc on the rotor before I connect the cams up.

Cheers for the replies guys!
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unfazed

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Re: Camchain replacement
« Reply #54 on: 11 August 2013, 08:06:38 pm »
There is no need to check anything with a screwdriver or anything else as I explained with the cams out :wall just line up the T mark on the rotor. You cannot be 180 degrees out on an engine with a firing order of 1243.
 
 
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humbucker88

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Re: Camchain replacement
« Reply #55 on: 12 August 2013, 05:00:56 pm »
Ye, obviously if the cams are out then the marks just need to be lined up, then put the cams in the correct way up ;)
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garyb

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Re: Camchain replacement
« Reply #56 on: 13 August 2013, 07:02:46 am »
Thanks Unfazed & Humbucker - I understand it now  :thumbup
 
I threaded the new chain through last night and installed the rivet link, one slight problem, I seem to have been a bit too enthusiastic with pressing the link plate in place and now the link is very tight  :'(
Do I need to remove it and replace it with a new one and try again? whats the best way folks have found to do this part of the job i.e pressing the plate in place. The chain riveter I have (Draper) is no use for this task as it's obviously for a drive chain.
 
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unfazed

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Re: Camchain replacement
« Reply #57 on: 13 August 2013, 06:56:12 pm »
a common problem. Carefully push a fine bladed screwdriver in between the links and it should loosen them. Should not require much force.
« Last Edit: 13 August 2013, 06:56:49 pm by unfazed »
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mars696

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Re: Camchain replacement
« Reply #58 on: 13 August 2013, 07:56:47 pm »
I hope that i dont hijack the thread... :D
Today i open the valve cover to check the camsaft timing marks, and this is what i saw:
The first is the exhaust cam and the second is the intake.Both are out of alignment but intake is more.... :'(
The camchain tensioner is at the last click i think...but i cant afford a camchain replacement now... :rolleyes
Is there any way to solve this and what have caused this???
Thanks foccers...
« Last Edit: 13 August 2013, 07:57:22 pm by mars696 »
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unfazed

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Re: Camchain replacement
« Reply #59 on: 13 August 2013, 09:56:24 pm »
If that is with the rotor aligned then it demotes some cam chain wear, but it is not to bad and the engine will run fine. Is the engine rattling?
How do you know the tensioner is on its last click did you remove it to check it?
 
 
 
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mars696

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Re: Camchain replacement
« Reply #60 on: 13 August 2013, 10:00:34 pm »
Yep,i remove the tensioner,and i had no click as i was unscrewing it.
I dont have a rattle,but i have a bloody foccing low end stutter and i am searching for the cause almost a year now.... :'(  so i check everything i can...
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unfazed

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Re: Camchain replacement
« Reply #61 on: 13 August 2013, 11:48:39 pm »
Did you remove the 10mm end bolt and take out the spring before undoing the 2 tensioner bolts.
This is probable the most accurate way of determining the number of steps left on the tensioner.
What revs is the stutter at and when does it happen.
Have you checked  items like carb balance, water in the cabs ( drain the carb bowels), water in the fuel filter (replace the fuel filter), blocked fuel filter (replace the fuel filter), dirty air filter (replace the air filter), TPS setting, Spark plug cap arcing, loose caps on the plug leads.
 
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mars696

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Re: Camchain replacement
« Reply #62 on: 13 August 2013, 11:53:54 pm »
The problem starts from idle up to 3k rpm.I have check or replace if needed everything you said twice or more...
Thats why i start searching timing...
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unfazed

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Re: Camchain replacement
« Reply #63 on: 14 August 2013, 12:13:41 am »
When engine is hot, cold or all the time.
Sound like a problem with the pilot system in the carbs.
Partially blocked pilot screws
Has anyone adjusted the air screw settings?
 
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