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Messages - mars696
1
« on: 07 May 2018, 06:32:46 pm »
2
« on: 07 May 2018, 05:13:46 pm »
They aren't replaceable,BUT they are...  I have managed to replace them with success,working properly more than two years now.
3
« on: 07 May 2018, 01:04:44 pm »
I think its 7mm,not sure thou.
4
« on: 15 November 2017, 08:28:24 am »
I had managed to change the ht leads at my coils with success. Its a bit risky job,but ok.The oem leads are glued to the coils with some kind of epoxy maybe(?). I removed them and clean the hole,at the end inside the coils there is something like a spike. Install the new ones with some high heat silicone-gasket silicone. Everything seems fine for months now. I wish i could afford some dynatec doils!  One mod i did these days,is i took the oem spark plug caps and removed the resistor they have inside.(i have allready ngk spark plugs) After some internet research,you dont need a resitance spark plug cap when you have a resistance spark plug allready. It seem to work better at low revs,but nothing sure yet,maybe its my mind. 
5
« on: 29 October 2017, 10:06:44 am »
I am pretty sure that the firing order is 1&4 and 2&3.
So one coil feeds 1&4 and the other 2&3!
Edited:
The firing order that i wrote above is wrong,keep only the second sentence!
First coil fires 1&4 second coil fires 2&3
6
« on: 20 October 2017, 04:04:47 pm »
Today i manage to pull out the carbs again and i change the orings at the float needle nests(is this term right?)! The problem seems to be solved! 
7
« on: 19 October 2017, 07:26:24 pm »
I am sure i dont have air leaks 100%! plug caps are ngk one's and tested with the oem too,tps its ok, i have 3 of them  and all work the same. The spark plugs are ngk iridium and they seem fine to my naked eyes. Thanks for the responce mate! I forgot to mention that the bike has k&n air filter and an akrapovic exhaust. I also check today the pilot screws are set at 2.5 turns for cylinders #1,2,4 and 2 3/4 for cylinder #4
8
« on: 18 October 2017, 07:39:07 pm »
Hi again guys! Soooo after solving this freaking problem... http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,23230.msg267705.html#msg267705i am facing another fuel problem that was coexisting with the previous one. As i am standing at a traffic light or a crossroad or something like that,with the engine fully warmed, and i lightly blip the throttle the rpms drops significantly and come again at proper idle speed or when i try to start moving the bike feels too rich and want more throttle opening. The pilot screws are adjusted at approximately 2.5 turns (01 model), if i try to reduce this,the bike doesnt idle properly. I have tried to set the float heights in many different settings. To archive the 3.5 mm above mating surface like Yamaha suggest, i have to set the float height at approximately 15+ mm above carb surface when bench setting them,but the bike with that setting, fills very strange and wont idle properly again. Now i am at ~13.5 mm and with the tube test it reads something like ~6.5mm above mating surface.I m confused again for focs sake!  Air filter is clean,carbs are very clean, i have this problem with both carbs sets i have( spare parts!!!!), pilot jets are yamaha's 12.5. Any help or idea will be much appreciated, because i am out again...
9
« on: 08 September 2017, 07:50:01 pm »
Hello to everyone! Sooooo, finaly after 9 focking years that i own the bike, i manage to find the problem. What was the problem,you ask. Off throttle-low rpm stuttering,jumping etc. For 9 years no mechanic could find the problem. For 9 years i have spend so many hours at removing, cleaning, checking parts again and again . Now i can remove the carbs in 15 min So much money spend on parts that could cause the problem, buying carb synchro tools any many more,but none of them was the cause.... A week ago,i had removed the carbs for one last time to clean and check floats etc.Everything was squeaky clean. When reassembling,i overtight one pilot jet and the focking thing broke in half. Fortunately i manage to remove the half that was inside the carb slot. Cursing was unbelievable. Order 4 spare ebc pilot jets online,because there was no stock in my country.One week without the bike. While waiting for the parts, i had a funny idea to remove the diaphragms from the slides...just for the hell of it.... and BOOOOM. One focking diaphragm had a pin hole at the base,you could only see it if removed from slide,or very carefully inspected,which i had done in past,but maybe not so carefully and ofcource no mechanic had spot it. I patched it with some hi temp silicone temporarily,just to clarify if this is the cause. Finally, when pilot jets arrived, assembled, balanced,pilot screws setup and out for a test ride. YEEEEEEEEESSSSS after 9 years the bike running properly!! No hesitation,no stutering, now i can drive at low rpm speeds without slipping the clucth like crazy. Even now, i still can't believe it! Thank you guys for all the help that you gave me all these years! 
10
« on: 13 August 2017, 08:12:19 am »
Thank you guys.
Bikemad, i have done these things,at least 15 times,no joking.
i have tried a 100 different settings, i have spend allready some money on things ive change,just in case...from inlet rubbers to tps and more.
I am so tired of this and i dont ride with pleasure for many years now.
11
« on: 11 August 2017, 03:01:51 pm »
I am asking for a good set of carbs for fzs 600,my bike is 2001 model. i searh for a set ,in best working condition i can find. Its my last hope for my many years low rev shuttering bitch! I live in Greece,anyone willing to help or point me where i can find one will be much appreciated. Thank you alot!
12
« on: 02 August 2016, 08:03:30 am »
Hi guys!
Anyone knows what's the measurement for the float bowls,with the caliper method?
From a web search i didnt find something sure,something like 13mm or 14mm.
I have now adjust them at 13mm...
Thanks,
Aris.
14
« on: 11 June 2015, 12:44:20 pm »
Ahhhh Story of my life Darrsi,i have exactly the same prolems for months now,and i cant find a solution,neither any mechanic can...
Hope you will be lucky...
15
« on: 02 June 2015, 12:36:31 pm »
I will change the bearings again. I dont want to risk it. Anybody knows the numbers for the bearings? I dont remember were i have read them, somewhere... Thanks for the responces guys! Edit: i found them!thanks!
16
« on: 31 May 2015, 09:48:46 am »
Hi there foccers!
My front wheel has develop a strange gap-movement the last weeks...
I though it was the steering bearings,which i replaced yestreday,but thats when i realize its the wheel which moving...
The wheel bearings are also changed a year ago....its possible to need new again? Or maybe something with my spindle or my installation?
Thanks,
Aris.
17
« on: 26 November 2014, 06:02:57 pm »
Sorry for the late reply,but i wanted to "feel" the bike before i give a feedback. As many before me have said,the 15w i believe is a "must" uprgade.At least for those who ride at bouncy-shity-not so good roads like me,here in my country. I also upgrade my hadlebars,from renthal's ultra low to lsl's street bars,and the feeling i get from the bike is the best i ever got from it.Ofcourse sag settings were checked. The lsl bars have less sweep and are lower than renthal's and with the stiffer front end it became spot on for me! I plan also a future spring upgrade,as i like the positive upgrade of the front end. As for the bars,i have an ktm's superduke headlight conversion,so i dont know if they will interact with the fzs fairing! Overall a big YES from me! 
18
« on: 16 November 2014, 06:35:18 am »
Hi focs,
I 've got a 2001 fzs600 and i am changing fork oil with 15w.
There are two amount-air gap specs that i found:
1)98-00 models, 475ml -121mm air gap
2)02-03 models, 465ml - 132mm air gap
Which one should i follow?My forks are with adjusters on top.
Thanks,
Aris.
19
« on: 05 October 2013, 05:56:28 pm »
Thanks for the answers guys. I currently have the sensor at the thermostat housing(replasing the stock sensor) but it does not read temperature properly. Maybe because the thermostat is close until a certain temperature,i dont know. 
20
« on: 04 October 2013, 05:23:18 pm »
Anybody knows the diameter of the coolant hose, at point before it goes to the engine(near generator)?
I want to fit a water temperature gauge,and i must fit a joint pipe for the sensor!
Is this a good place to install the sensor?
Thanks!
21
« on: 29 August 2013, 10:22:31 am »
I think psyfi talking about the camchain tensioner. Yes there must be two ball bearings in the tensioner.
22
« on: 20 August 2013, 09:26:45 am »
I took out carbs again yesterday and i adjust the float height with the clear hose way. My God what a pita... Fortunately the bike come back again,the 5-6k red line solved, [size=78%]but the low end it still there.[/size]
23
« on: 20 August 2013, 09:20:45 am »
24
« on: 20 August 2013, 08:41:53 am »
I purchase some ngk iridium spark plugs from flebay. The seller says that the gap is 0.6mm,do i have to regap them to the yamahas specs(0,7-0,8mm). I search the web and i saw that it is very dangerous for the iridium tip
25
« on: 18 August 2013, 07:32:37 pm »
Hi,thanks for the replies guys. Reilly are you sure that the float height with the old fashion measure way is 14mm??Because i search all the web and i didnt find anything,only the clear hose way and measurement. Unfortunately i dont know anyone with the same bike to check with his carbs...
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