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Messages - Deefer666
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101
« on: 16 January 2016, 11:02:09 am »
Virtually everything Fazer can be bought through myself @ Motorcycle-republic.com. I carry a load of used spares and have access to new parts usually on a next day basis
Makes sense to buy from Deefer. You'd still get the right part based on a vague description.
Cheers geezer  . Like I said I have a huge stock of used parts (mostly FZS600) ,new pattern parts I have an excellent supplier so that I can get stuff next day, & Genuine parts I can obtain direct from UK on priority order.
102
« on: 15 January 2016, 12:34:51 pm »
Virtually everything Fazer can be bought through myself @ Motorcycle-republic.com. I carry a load of used spares and have access to new parts usually on a next day basis
103
« on: 12 January 2016, 08:50:29 pm »
Can't see the point, the FZS doesn't exactly have a heavy clutch not like an old GSX
104
« on: 12 January 2016, 03:23:17 pm »
Piece of clear tube, 8mm spanner, & an old coffee jar... does the job every time
unless you're a midget and can't reach brake lever and bleed nipple at same time ............
With the bike in the air on the bench , I can reach both lever and bleed nipple at the same time. Piece of piss
105
« on: 11 January 2016, 12:43:29 pm »
Have you checked the fuses? that is a shitty job of the headlight mod but why insulate the bar cut wire there is nothing going into it at the other end. All I would do is remove the green tape (WHO THE FUCK USES GREEN INSULATION TAPE?) and re-insulate it with some heat shrink.
106
« on: 11 January 2016, 12:38:27 pm »
There's a micro switch under the front brake lever, sometimes these break and sometimes the wires get pulled off.
107
« on: 10 January 2016, 07:09:30 pm »
Piece of clear tube, 8mm spanner, & an old coffee jar... does the job every time
108
« on: 07 January 2016, 04:52:21 pm »
Cheers both. Will take the pads out tonight and have a good look at the disc surface / pads/ retaining pins and clean everything up. Otherwise will try lines then discs. Because the juddering started right after changing the pads it's leading me to think it's related, but then the braking power with the new pads is so much stronger so it could be showing up a problem that was already existing somewhere else..
Check that your pads went into the caliper "square" & aren't snagged up on the anti rattle plate, check the pin for grooves where the loop of the pad sits, when reassembling put a smear of copperslip ON THE BACK OF THE PAD. And smear the pin with copperslip when you put it back through.
109
« on: 07 January 2016, 04:26:19 pm »
It would be unprofessional of me to give an opinion either way about a product or company, all I tend to do is say which companies I personally wouldn't use. 
110
« on: 07 January 2016, 03:45:45 pm »
Standard rubber brake lines don't generally fail, it can happen but more likely is that they become soft and you lose braking performance. Pulsing through the lever although normally indicates a fucked disc can be the sidewalls of the rubber lines starting to give and although difficult to explain its a different sensation of pulsing that a warped disc would give.
I have had a set of braided lines let go on me, they where fitted by a previous owner of the bike that I owned at the time and must have been twisted to get them to fit, this caused the outer braiding to split and the inner pipe to pop out like a hernia and burst. This is why I now only use the braided lines and the ends swivel to stop the twisting of the lines under installation.
Hi Deefer, how different is the feel between deteriorated lines and warped discs? I've been getting the chattering/pulsing lever since I recently changed my pads (to EBC). It's usually most noticeable the more pressure I apply, and backing off the brake relieves it. The pistons moved freely when I changed the pads it and all the bolts were torqued down properly. I changed the brake fluid this week (looked like it was long overdue) but I'm still getting the same pulsing. There doesn't seem to be too much play in the headstock bearings from what I can tell (did the same thing I do with pushbikes, trying to move the fork backwards and forwards with the wheel off the ground).
It's hard to describe the feel, but it feels almost like the pads are chattering out of the caliper. I've read through a few posts on here stating that new lines made a difference, and I am planning to do put some HEL ones on at some stage using the forum discount, but how would easy is it to tell if the disc is warped without a dial gauge? I gave them a good clean last night and the front wheel spins freely with no apparent binding. I measured the thickness when I changed the pads and the disc itself was within spec, though I will check it again. The lines themselves look to be original though I can't see any bulging or cracking at all. I am planning to try cleaning the floating disc bobbins at some point as well.
If you are planning to change the lines anyway then make that your first job, because it's a damn site cheaper than replacing discs unnecessarily!
Its very difficult to describe... the brakes dont feel as sharp, you have more lever travel for effectively is less grip at the caliper end. Most people never realise how much their lines have degraded unless they ride another bike as the degradation is so gradual. I personally never use or recommend Hel or Goodridge brake lines but that's personal preference.... I normally stick to Venhill or more recently I have started to use a German TUV brand called JM and I find these are superb although not readily available outside of the trade. The pulsing that you feel on knackered lines is more of a grabbing at the disc rather than a pulsing from the lever, again its difficult to describe but once you have experience it you will recognise it. The other thing of course to check is that the pad retention pin is in good condition and has not got grooves worn in it. This means the pad cannot smoothly travel along the pin and will grip the pad at an angle instead of square on.... this too will give a pulsing feel.
111
« on: 07 January 2016, 09:39:01 am »
Standard rubber brake lines don't generally fail, it can happen but more likely is that they become soft and you lose braking performance. Pulsing through the lever although normally indicates a fucked disc can be the sidewalls of the rubber lines starting to give and although difficult to explain its a different sensation of pulsing that a warped disc would give.
I have had a set of braided lines let go on me, they where fitted by a previous owner of the bike that I owned at the time and must have been twisted to get them to fit, this caused the outer braiding to split and the inner pipe to pop out like a hernia and burst. This is why I now only use the braided lines and the ends swivel to stop the twisting of the lines under installation.
112
« on: 06 January 2016, 10:30:36 am »
 When I relocated from Newbury to Kettering I took a stop-gap job in a busy village pub, and because I am "of a larger build" than most people that the landlord and landlady used to insist that that I evict the trouble makers (mostly pissed up farm workers). What used to annoy me is that it soon became a game to these idiots and more and more I was constantly "escorting" people out through the fire exit using their heads to open the doors. What pissed me off that the landlord knowing that i would sort the problem started to get really aggressive with the troublemakers and when they kicked off he would be nowhere to be seen only to pop up again like Mr Ben's shopkeeper once the problem had been dealt with. I got sick of it and when I started demanding that they get a doorman or at least increase my wages to cover what I was having to deal with, I was laid off.... funny that. Last I heard the pub had got so rough and the landlord could not cope and had given up the tenancy. But I really don't get why people go to pubs purely to start trouble as it ruins everyone's evening.
113
« on: 04 January 2016, 11:18:56 am »
My bike is 14yrs old and still appears to have original brake lines. No issues! I just bled them after 'servicing' the calipers all round and they are plenty firm with loads of feedback.
Aftermarket bars and can - I'm probably wrong (most of the time), as these are common modifications, but it would be worth looking for evidence it's been dropped or down the road, original engine covers? levers, pegs? etc
Rubber brake lines are reckoned to have a "use life" of 5-6 years" after that they start to degrade and are generally reckoned to be due for replacement by 8 years max. Obviously this is generalisation as it does not take into consideration the use the brakes have had and while you think that your brakes are fine and they probably feel fine because the degradation is a slow process that if you were to replace the hoses you would feel how much performance you were losing. This is why when people fit braided hoses they always reckon that they are so much better than rubber hoses, this is not true its just that the rubber hoses were probably past their best. As for the aftermarket bars and lack on bar ends, I only pointed it out because Jan/Feb are really a buyers market if you have cash and its one more thing to use to attempt to beat the dealer down in price.
114
« on: 03 January 2016, 03:13:50 pm »
Looks good initially, but its still running the original rubber brake hoses.... 13 years old now and looking at everything else that has been done to the bike I wonder why they haven't been changed. Also the downpipes look like the cheap ones that got punted about cheap a few years ago... I could be wrong but I would want to check that they are 4-2-1 rather than what I suspect are the 4-1 pipes that give the FZS a horrendous flat spot @6-7k.
Also remember if you are buying with cash, dealers should be climbing all themselves to do deals and shift bikes in January so I would wave cash money under their nose and go in at 1k.... It is cheap at what they have it at but it is the dead time for dealers at the moment.
Oh yeah, also aftermarket bars with no bar ends
115
« on: 03 January 2016, 01:41:14 pm »
Technically it's a mid box. Flows well, sounds good. I've always been happy. I'm aware it's not to everyones tastes, but a 2nd hand original one on ebay is dirt cheap.
I know I have lots of them on a shelf in the workshop, I use them to weigh sacks of kittens down before I hoy them in the canal.
116
« on: 03 January 2016, 10:59:31 am »
Everyone and their wife seems to be cafe racering them at the moment, which is beyond me because they are wank. They were wank 30 years ago and time has not made them any less wank
117
« on: 03 January 2016, 10:57:50 am »
I've got some Banjo with bleed nipples, I used them on Laura's trike when I realised that the previous owner had not just snapped the bleed nipples off but filled them in as well  But I always heat corroded bleed nipples up and then quench them with penetrating oil (not WD40, that's wank!). I do that a couple of times and they nearly always wind straight out.
118
« on: 02 January 2016, 06:07:12 pm »
I know where there's a guy with a couple of disassembled plastic maggots.... I'll ask him although they have become sought after as they are popular for modification (fuck know why?) with the hipster/cafe racer/hot rodders at the moment.
119
« on: 02 January 2016, 01:56:50 pm »
Is that a car back box?
120
« on: 01 January 2016, 07:01:50 pm »
I have in the past (on my own bikes) run a rear brake with no dust seals in but only as a temporary measure. If the main seal is in good condition it is not a problem..... I wouldn't do it on a front brake but on a rear as a stopgap measure its not a problem.
121
« on: 01 January 2016, 01:10:37 pm »
I intend to finish my Transalp/Fazer supermoto hybrid thingy and then ride the hell out of it!
122
« on: 31 December 2015, 06:58:48 pm »
As above £22.50 inc postage, these normally sell for £35... These are they genuine TUV approved item, not to be confused with the chinese, monkey metal ones that are being punted out cheap on E-Bay. 
123
« on: 31 December 2015, 02:13:43 pm »
if its underneath at the end where the link pipe joins it. Its supposed to be there
124
« on: 31 December 2015, 10:23:01 am »
Put the flat shock spanner that comes in the standard tool kit in the middle of the caliper, when the pistons pop out under air pressure they cannot come all the way out that way I have no idea how to get the pistons out now,
If you've got an air compressor, join your two bits of calipers together again and blow them out 
Make sure they're connected or you'll do more than "blow the bloody doors off" 
I have a blow gun that I have adapted with a Banjo bolt, so that the body of the gun screws into the caliper. Compressed air normally gets the pistons out. Also I find a bit of heat helps if they are being stubborn... The seals are fucked anyway so a blow torch wouldn't hurt anything so long as you don't go mental and melt the o-ring seal between parts of the caliper.
I've used a grease gun on the bleed nipple to ease them out in the past, OK so you need to give them a good clean after but I prefer the grease method as you not have pistons flying past your ears when they finally pop free
125
« on: 30 December 2015, 02:05:45 pm »
Yup, That's fucked
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