This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - FazerRuss
26
« on: 15 July 2013, 10:58:08 am »
Another update.
I've managed to source another set of downpipes complete with (seized) exup valve.
So the plan is to clean up this other set, strip the valve out and clean it up, then swap the whole lot over. Whilst what I have done is working fine, it's just annoying me knowing that it's not perfect....it's just how i am wired unforunately! 
hi m8
i'm desperate for a set of useable downpipes cos my exup cover is welded on and there are no cables,, so when you're sorted i'd be very interested in a set of pipes with exup even if theres only 2 bolts 
oh and where the hell do you keep sourcing used headers from?
julian
This is the first set of headers I've bought? The first set I'd found had dented pipes, so I wasn't interested. PM me your email or phone number, and I'll give you a shout when I've done the exhaust swap.
27
« on: 15 July 2013, 10:55:38 am »
Well, I have my "new" set of pipes cleaned up. Valve removed (after a week of soaking with plusgas), and even with gratuitous application of a blowlamp, giving the bolt and surrounding areas a bit of a gentle bashing with a hammer to try free things up, i still had a bolt shear on me. 2 came out very easily though, so the plusgas and heat must help, but I do think that the chances of getting all bolts out unscathed are slim to none. I did manage to successfully drill out the busted bolt this time though  The valve on this one was seized beyond belief. Loads of carb cleaner to try break down some of the carbon deposits, loads of plusgas again and still no joy. Ended up with the valve held in the vice and having to hit the mounting plate (carefully!) with a hammer to get things moving. Once it started though, it was all good with some WD40 to help things. lots of rusty colour liquid came out, but it's nice and free now (and doused in copper grease). So all good for the exhaust swap, which I'm dreading. The exuast studs don't look too badly corroded to be honest, but after the exup experience, I'm very apprehensive.
28
« on: 10 July 2013, 01:19:34 pm »
Another update. I've managed to source another set of downpipes complete with (seized) exup valve. So the plan is to clean up this other set, strip the valve out and clean it up, then swap the whole lot over. Whilst what I have done is working fine, it's just annoying me knowing that it's not perfect....it's just how i am wired unforunately!
29
« on: 29 May 2013, 09:47:52 am »
I bought one of these the other day, as it seemed it'd be useful for both work and social purposes. I looked at quite a few but settled on this one, which appeared to be a brand of sorts, rather than a generic thing. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190839752522?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649eBay seller "freebitsuk" It has a load of different size foam bits to pad out the phone, and the case is the perfect size and a nice snug fit without being too tight. The touchscreen can also be operated through the plastic - not particulary handy when you have motorbike gloves on, but there we go! : A friend bought a slightly cheaper one and has said he discovered it wasn't as "rain proof" as the ad made out. The one I have, I must admit, the plastic screen cover looks tightly stitched to the rest of the case, and the zips also look like they'd do a good job of keeping rain out, as they're coated in that rubbery coating that effectively seals the zip when it's done up. I got it because it came with 2 brackets, and I was thinking it'd also be useful on my mountainbike or road bike. One bracket is a shorter, thumbsrcrew and clamp fixing - the other is a longer and larger quick release clamp. Turns out the smaller mounting bracket fitted the Fazer handlebars well, and being shorted, means the phone's not hanging out miles from the bike. The rubber strip supplied was a bit to thin, but I had some other rubber that I cut down to size and that helped it clamp that little bit tighter. Tried it for the first time today on the bike:    It works really well. It holds it nice and tight, even on Surrey’s wonderfully smooth roads : :roll: , it didn’t look in danger of being launched off. The only problems I found were I had is that the auto-screen rotation was going bonkers at times. Solved that by installing a free app that allows you to manually set portrait or landscape called "Rotation Locker". The other downside is that it does cane through the battery. Did about 20% in 30 mins or so, so hooking up a lighter socket or something somewhere under the faring is going to be a must. I've ordered a waterproof usb charging socket from this place. The selection on ebay looked a bit crap, so I figured I may as well get a half decent waterproof fused socket that would be fairly flexible in terms of mounting options. http://www.powerlinkproducts.co.uk/usbcharger.htmlI'll fit that when it arrives in a few days. Anyway, seeing as there's quite a selection on eBay and elsewhere, I thought a review and some pictures of one I found to be pretty good may be useful.
30
« on: 24 May 2013, 03:55:43 pm »
This is why on our forum (cars, not bikes) we don't allow people to reply to ads - that has to be done by PM - that way it saves the seller getting a lot of posts discussing the sale item and how it's too expensive and how my mate Dave bought one just like to for a tenner last weekend....
P.S. It looks lovely. Wish mine looked as tidy. If it is CAT D, then the easiest way to put buyers minds at rest is to have the details of why it's written off and what the costs were to repair, and also have the receipts for the new bits/work done to show it wasn't smashed to fuck under a truck, and just needed a new headlight and exhaust, or whatever.
31
« on: 24 May 2013, 03:32:03 pm »
Reading this chaps thread... http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,7714.0.htmlHow common a failure are the cam chain tensioners please people? What are we talking.....1 in 100, 1 in 5? I think my cam chain is a bit noisy (18k miles), as it seems to occassionally rattle slightly when decelerating through 3500-2000 rpm, but I can't decide if (a) they're all like that Sir! (b) it's because the bike's just had a fresh oil change (c) the cam chain adjuster is stuck. The thing is, i don't recall hearing it before I changed the oil - and spent the weekend frigging about with the EXUP valve - so maybe it's always been like it and I'm just being paranoid  I've tried the thrashing the arse off it trick too, made no difference. It's not major rattles all the time, nor is it especially loud - no issues with the bikes performance either. I'm just a bit confused, as everything i've read suggests the cam chains rattle when the bike's cold. Whereas mine seems to rattle only when it's been ridden for 30 mins or so and is nice and hot.  I am thinking of popping the adjsut out and checking it over. Do they have a gasket, as I didn't need a gasket when I took the one out on my bandit and put it back in again? I must admit, the price of new adjusters is ridiculous. I swear new bits for my Bandit never used to be as stupidly priced.....
32
« on: 24 May 2013, 08:27:27 am »
How do you know how to set the manual tensioners so they're the correct chain tension?
33
« on: 21 May 2013, 09:17:28 am »
Little update, which may be of use to others. I noticed the other night that the bikes engine seemed to be rattling at aroudn 2000-3000 rpm. The rattle got faster with engine speed. Also noticed the bike exhaust seems to pop and burble a lot more than usual. Having spent the night googling last night, I came toe the conclusion (a bit like Newton and his apple) that there was a fair chance the partially drilled out bolt may well be the cause. So before I left for work this morning, I whipped off the EXUP valve again and sealed the half drilled out hole with some firegum. I could see some carbon deposits from where the exhaust was blowing ever so slighltly out of the 1-2mm dia. drilled out hole. Copper-greased everything again for good measure and reassembled. I rode it carefully to work (14 miles), not really revving it hard (ie: not over 5-6k) so the firefum would standa a good chance of setting. Touch wood, that seems to have solved it I couldn't hear any rattling sounds and there was not the noticeable popping and burbling on overrun either. Who'd have thought such a small hole would make noises like a timing or cam chain rattle?! Anyway, thought that might be useful information for someone.
34
« on: 16 May 2013, 01:18:07 pm »
Bloody hell! Mine look new compared to that!! A little update on mine. Not sure if it's down to having fresh oil and filter, nicely cleaned and lubed exup, placebo or a cobination of all 3, but the bike feels nicer to ride today. The power delivery is smoother and it just feels a little mroe lively. I wonder if the valve was not seized, but not operating smoothly before hand. As I wasn't getting any 7k dash error or anything. Either way, feels much nicer now
35
« on: 13 May 2013, 01:46:22 pm »
Here's a quick diagram of what' I've done (thanks to cartestsoftware's website for the picture!).
Rivet top
Cover allen bolt below.
Black bit is the metal bar!
36
« on: 13 May 2013, 01:23:11 pm »
2 bits of better news. 1) spoke to aforementioned trusty bike chap. He said yes he was well aware of the exup valves, and is quite proficient in drilling and retapping! However, he also said he's seen loads (unsuriprisingly) that were only held in my 2 bolts and didnt' give any issues - so I think I'll see how things work for a bit. Certainly seemed ok yesterday when I fired the bike up. 2) Just for shits and giggles, called Yamaha to enquire about the cost of new downpipes and exup. £1500+VAT. PMSL! Even the advisor said "that's bloody ridiculous, you could buy another bike for that". However, have found second hand downpipes (with the exup removed and all threads in good working order!) that I've bought, with a view to swapping my working and pretty good condition valve over into at some point. 
37
« on: 13 May 2013, 09:42:12 am »
I'm interested in the downpipes - not fussed if it has the exup valve in place or not.
38
« on: 13 May 2013, 07:55:00 am »
Yes, of course I was heating the exhaust section - no point in heating the bolt themselves clearly. RE: drill bits - I tried slow, fast, little pressure, lots of pressure, nothing seemed to make any difference to be honest, as it would just blunt the tips and then wouldn't actually drill anything. I must've snapped most of them to be honest with the pressure, combined with the tip blunting and not doing anythign useful. I'd considered taking the exhaust off to be honest, but then the way things had panned out so far, I could just imagine half the manifold studs shearing as well - the first 2 nuts came off without any issue, but the third felt very stuck and I bottled out! My plan of action is to (a) speak to a bike mechanic chap I've used a few times before and see if he can sort out the 'nearly drilled out' bolt as I know he's got a pillar drill in his workshop, and i trust him (b) get a second set of downpipes complete with valve so I can clean the whole downpipe section up so they look like new and service the valve in them, then swap the whole lot over.
39
« on: 12 May 2013, 08:03:31 pm »
Oh, and are the downpipes and exup on my 2002 fazer fzs1000 the same as on the r1?
40
« on: 12 May 2013, 07:42:46 pm »
What a ballache of a weekend. I'd not had any issues with the exup valve, although it has been starting to squeak the last couple of weeks when I switched the ignition on. Strikes me that you either attack this exup valve and deal with the consequences of dismantling before it breaks, or do it when it breaks. Either way, it would appear that if bikes got more than 6k miles on it, chances are its gonna be a nightmare, so may as well do it sooner rather than later, IMO. Anyway, not sure what has happened with this valve in the past, but the cover is fixed in a bit of a Heath Robinson fashion, spaced out from the valve by large nuts , with the cover securing bolts obviously passing through these. That's the first oddity. I have been soaking the exup bolts with penetrating oil the last week, so thought I'd give it a go yesterday. Had the blowtorch on the first one for a good while to heat things up. First bolt (bottom left) finally began to shift. Second bolt (top left) had the same treatment, and again came out with not too much trouble. The third bolt (the one on the right), no such luck. Blowtorch on it for ages, didn't feel like it was happening. More penetrating oil and then an hour later, more blowtorch action for ages. Then finally....snap.  Fuck it. So, was able to get the exup valve out. Looked clean enough, although was definitely dry and squeaky. Took the cable pulley off, and there's a big chunk snapped off it, doesn't affect operation, also the centre bolt has clearly been had a pop at previously, as the thread was fucked inside the bronze valve spindle end. So yeah. I think someone has had a crack at getting this off, or has done something to the valve in the past bearing in mind the above. Perhaps the bolt that sheared was the one that they'd tried to undo already without the oil and blowtorch, maybe weakening it...I dunno. Went and bought myself a tap and die set and rethreaded the valve end so the bolt will fit it properly. A then I began the painstaking task of trying to drill out the old bolt. Fuck knows what is going on with this, as it simply was not happening. I've burnt through more drill bits than I can remember, and whilst I did manage to get a small hole forming (ie: nearly drilled through), it was just eating drill bits at an alarming rate. Nothing I've read suggests you'd need diamond tipped drills to do this!!?? Anyway, gave up with it, the reason being that once the valve is relocated in place, the circular bit of the end plate fits snugly into the exhaust, and doesn't seem to be going anywhere with the two left bolts holding it in place. The concern I had is that the cable bracket is held in place by the top left bolt and the one on the right...which I don't have anymore, as its buggered. Again, whilst it seem to be held in place in a fairly secure fashion, I was concerned about the leverage exerted on the one bolt, and that the cable bracket would eventually creep round. Took the cable bracket off again, and went delving round the shed for a bit of metal bar I could use. My plan was to fix the bar to the 'missing bolt' bolt hole on the cable bracket, which would then be fixed at the other end to the lower cover bolt hole. I should've taken a picture, but quite frankly , I just needed to get it all back together ASAP. So, pop rivetted the new bar to the cable bracket, bolted everything up and it seems to work fine and the cable bracket is just as secure as it was originally before it all went to shit. Everything is copper greased, and all new bolts are stainless. Took the cover off and adjusted the cables and there's no squeaking anymore and everything seems to be working ok. I can't decide if I should take the bike somewhere and see about having the buggered hole drilled out properly and re threaded, or just leave it and see how things work out? Any thoughts please chaps? Oh, I serviced the bike yesterday too before all this aggravation!
41
« on: 03 April 2013, 01:09:37 pm »
Afternoon I think I must be missing something here.... How is it you've come to the conclusion there is actual engine oil in the coolant? From what can see above, it's because you've seen an oily looking film on top of the coolant and because the coolant doesn't look spotlessly clean? As has been mentioned above, the cooling system operates at high pressure, so would force coolant into your oil if a gasket or seal was gone - and if that was happening, you'd be seeling a LOT of emulsified oil, and/or a drop in coolant level and increase in oil level in the sight glass. I think you're worrying over nothing personally, coolant always gets a bit skanky over time (hence flush and renew every once in a while is a good idea). Coolant reservoirs also get mucky (no idea why, but they do).
42
« on: 26 March 2013, 08:02:06 am »
43
« on: 17 March 2013, 10:15:52 pm »
44
« on: 10 March 2013, 10:47:30 am »
Thanks for replying! I appreciate it's not the most exciting topic in the world, but I'm very excited that I no longer have to wrestle my bike around, and it hasn't cost be stupid money!
Sent from my GT-I9305 using Tapatalk 2
46
« on: 06 March 2013, 01:06:29 pm »
Thanks mate
47
« on: 06 March 2013, 10:04:25 am »
I've not got my bike at work today, and I'm trying to come up with a design for a turntable to faciliate getting the bike in and out of the garage.
I don't suppose someone knows (of can quickly measure) the centre stand width?
Thanks
48
« on: 28 February 2013, 08:15:49 pm »
Today I replaced 90% of the standard "cheese" bolts with stainless  , adjusted the EXUP valve cables (as it seems they were waaaay out)  , replaced the hideously expensive adjustable pegs with 'normal' black anodised ones so not I can operate things much better , and confused myself with why the chain seems to slap about despite being set to the handbook specified slackness.
49
« on: 27 February 2013, 12:32:05 pm »
Checked the tyres as it was my first real "outing" since buying it. 1.5bar on both front and rear. Now duly inflated correctly.
50
« on: 27 February 2013, 11:39:14 am »
As new condition and new battery approximately 2 months ago.
Easily programmable to any Datatool system 3
£18 posted.
|
Show Posts
