Author Topic: clunking chain... (Read 7436 times)

philshaq · « **Reply #25 on:** 07 November 2012, 09:09:31 pm »

Right, so I tried the engine oil tip, its worked for all but one link so thanks Andy for the tip. Looks like it had gone slightly too far

So back to changing it, which, with it being winter and me not having a garage is going to be a weekend job, so the missus is carless for the rest of the week.

I thought it was bad enough running the chain a bit past its best, but now I have to think about the possibility of no front sprocket nut with nackered threads, joy!

How does the issue manifest itself? The chain is jumping quite significantly still, but watching it when its up on the centre stand it looks like its a stiff link causing the jump but can't be really sure until I see the state of the front sprocket...

I love weekends at the moment, either work on the bike or work on stupid french cars!

His Dudeness · « **Reply #26 on:** 07 November 2012, 11:11:44 pm »

if you've got any doubts about the chain just bin it. the symptoms of a dodgy front sprocket seem to be that it falls off when you're riding

darrsi · « **Reply #27 on:** 08 November 2012, 01:13:43 am »

Don't judge a chain's movement whilst on the centre stand, the rear wheel tries to catch up on itself. 'cos there's no weight load!

If it's iffy you'll feel it bumping on your left foot through the footpeg.

Any lumpiness is a sign of a either a sticky link, offset rear wheel, worn chain/sprockets, or the front sprocket issue.

philshaq · « **Reply #28 on:** 08 November 2012, 01:09:21 pm »

Cheers for the tip Darrsi, I'm pretty sure there are some stiff links in there that I can't work out though, its stiff at certain points when I rotate by hand and the chain jumps in one place specifically when on the centre stand.

I've found a decent value DID chain and sprocket kit at BitzforBikes in Rochdale, I'll drive over sat morning and pick it up and will try and fix the sprocket nut for a larger one as well. I'm hoping its not as bad as it could possibly be!

Now I just need to find a chainlink splitter / riveter that doesn't cost the earth / borrow off someone!!

philshaq · « **Reply #29 on:** 08 November 2012, 01:22:25 pm »

I've just ordered the sprocket nut from Fowlers. Really helpful, I asked about a chain and sprocket kit from them, nearly fell off my chair! £200 for the original manufacturers part!

darrsi · « **Reply #30 on:** 08 November 2012, 01:56:56 pm »

Yeah they mainly sell original parts, very steep.
Same as AJ Sutton, i use they're site a lot because you can browse the parts with prices, then fall off your chair.
I think an original spark plug cap costs about £53 each.

That's not even funny! Good website though.
http://www.ajsutton.co.uk/

cnw180 · « **Reply #31 on:** 08 November 2012, 03:44:06 pm »

Quote from: philshaq on 04 November 2012, 09:17:52 pm

hi all,

noticed that since adjusting the chain for the first time since owning, (it was very slack, about 10cm of play), that there is a strange clunking coming from near the front sprocket, it only seems to do it on pulling off / at slow engine speeds (or its too loud at speed to hear it).

Any suggestions on what it could be? I checked the chain again today and it needed adjusting, so thats going to need changing, I'm just hoping the clunking isn't anything serious. Is there a bearing on the sprocket that could have gone?!

Thanks for your comments

I've had a similar problem to this. The initial problem was simply a worn (clicking noise) front sprocket, so I fitted a new DID chain and sprocket set.

However the DID Chain lasted only 5000 miles (original yamaha one did at least 15k) before a tight spot developed, back came the clicking and also a whooping sound around 50mph.

Cue another chain and sprockets and all is ok.

Check the free play all the way round the chain is the same at several points. If you are unable to adjust the chain to the correct setting all the war round, then its time for a new one!

I've been told that if a bike stands for a long time, without the chain moving, these tight spots can develop and ruin the chain.

darrsi · « **Reply #32 on:** 08 November 2012, 05:08:00 pm »

I think the trick is to lube a new chain much more often than you would normally think necessary, especially after bad weather, and it'll put a few more miles of life onto it, and also give it a good scrub every now and then as well.

caretaker · « **Reply #33 on:** 09 November 2012, 07:14:07 pm »

i had the same problem. horrendous clunking noise at the gearbox end. guys on here suggested changing the chain and sprox but i assumed it wasnt the problem as my chain was in good nick. however, i eventually got my money out and bought a set. what a transformation! i'm assuming the chain had stretched.

philshaq · « **Reply #34 on:** 09 November 2012, 08:13:55 pm »

Cheers for all the comments guys, I've just got the larger Nut in the post and will be picking up the chain and sprockets tomorrow. Does anyone know of an easy 'how to' guide?

I'm guessing its as follows;

front sprocket cover and associated gubbins off,
Split the chain and remove,
slacken off the spocket nut (if its still there...!),
remove the rear sprocket,
slacken off and leave loose the chain tensioners,
put new front sprocket on,
put new washer and bigger sprocket nut on (if there is any thread left...!)
put rear sprocket on and tighten in a 2-8-10-4-9-3 (clock face) stylee,
soak chain in motor oil for a couple of hours, pat dry,
feed new chain on,
rivet up (not sure how to do this without a chain riveter?!)
check tension,
adjust and check at several points,
tighten down chain tentioners,
torque up front sprocket and rear sprocket bolts,
put front sprocket cover back on,
torque up cover,
take for a spin and pray that the clunking I was hearing was the duff chain and nothing else!

Anything I've missed / shouldn't be doing?

wezdavo · « **Reply #35 on:** 09 November 2012, 08:25:28 pm »

Quote from: philshaq on 09 November 2012, 08:13:55 pm

Cheers for all the comments guys, I've just got the larger Nut in the post and will be picking up the chain and sprockets tomorrow. Does anyone know of an easy 'how to' guide?

I'm guessing its as follows;

front sprocket cover and associated gubbins off,
Split the chain and remove,
slacken off the spocket nut (if its still there...!),
remove the rear sprocket,
slacken off and leave loose the chain tensioners,
put new front sprocket on,
put new washer and bigger sprocket nut on (if there is any thread left...!)
put rear sprocket on and tighten in a 2-8-10-4-9-3 (clock face) stylee,
soak chain in motor oil for a couple of hours, pat dry,
feed new chain on,
rivet up (not sure how to do this without a chain riveter?!)
check tension,
adjust and check at several points,
tighten down chain tentioners,
torque up front sprocket and rear sprocket bolts,
put front sprocket cover back on,
torque up cover,
take for a spin and pray that the clunking I was hearing was the duff chain and nothing else!

Anything I've missed / shouldn't be doing?

You will need to remove the front sprocket nut before removing the chain...
Get a pal to push the rear brake while you undo the nut..

unfazed · « **Reply #36 on:** 09 November 2012, 09:25:08 pm »

If you cannot join the chain or are uncomfortable about doing it then get the local shop to join it for you and remove the swinging arm to replace it. removing the swingin arm is not a difficult job just time consuming. Check out page 7-60 onwards in the service manual. At the end of the day it is only a few more bolts and make sure you put back the thrust covers on either side of the swinging arm if they fall off. Most people can tighten a bolt to the correct torque, but would not have the confidence to join a chain. It will take more time, but compare it to the alternative if the chain is not joined correctly, plus it will give you a chance to inspect the linkage bearing and grease them. When you fit the chain the correct tension is when the chain just touches the swinging arm protector with the bike on the centre stand.
I have found over the years that replacing the front sprocket on a regular basis can double the life of the chain, remember the front sprocket wears 3 times as fast as the rear (15 teeth to 45 teeth). My first chain lasted 40000 miles and 3 front sprockets which cost a total of £21. Many (not all) would have gone through at least 2 chains or more in that mileage.
Shops will tell you to replace all but there is no need. Check if the chain lifts off the rear sprocket more than 5mm at different points around the chain to determine how worn it is, the more it lifts off the more worn it is. My present chain has 33000 miles on it and it still does not lift 5mm off the rear sprocket. I am on the third front sprocket.
There is a lot more profit in a chain and sprockets than a front sprocket.
Good advice there from wezdavo
Good luck on the work.

philshaq · « **Reply #37 on:** 11 November 2012, 07:19:23 pm »

I spoke to the local shop and they suggested a split link to get it up to them for them to rivet it. Trouble is no one sells split links for the size of chain that goes on a fazer

So I decided to go for the option of riveting it with a hammer and taking it to the local shop for them to check it. Problem was I couldn't get the face plate onto the rivet, mole grips just didn't cut it!

So I caved, went and bought a riveter and riveted it in about 30 min, I didn't go for the swing arm out option as I thought it would be quicker (the missus was waiting around!) and I know its been well looked after before I got my mitts on it!

I ended up spending more time than if I'd have taken the swing arm out, bit of a fail on all accounts really. but at least its sorted now,

Check out the photos, do you thing the rivet is good enough? I didn't want to take it too far and pinch the link together... (the photos are a bit hazy for some reason)

Thanks as always for all the help guys

darrsi · « **Reply #38 on:** 11 November 2012, 11:33:46 pm »

NEVER use a split link on a motorbike chain, that's a very big no no......

Actually, my apologies, i just read your post again and have seen that you only wanted it to get the bike to the shop, but that's probably why you can't find one, 'cos it's a wrong'un!

trudd · « **Reply #39 on:** 11 November 2012, 11:38:56 pm »

Why do you think that using a split link is so bad? There is no side load on a chain so a split link isn't that bad. As long as the chain is running straight and adjusted properly it will be fine - in my opinion.

darrsi · « **Reply #40 on:** 12 November 2012, 12:00:11 am »

That's just the point, you said it yourself "..as long as..", what if it isn't running straight, or adjusted properly? You're opening yourself up to unnecessary danger.

Best to always have a chain riveted, especially on bikes that are capable of high speeds.

unfazed · « **Reply #41 on:** 12 November 2012, 07:54:56 pm »

Looks very good for a first timer, as long as the rivit end is bigger than the hole it came through it will be fine.
The only problem now is that with the clunking noise gone you will be hearing all the other funny sounds

philshaq · « **Reply #42 on:** 12 November 2012, 08:18:43 pm »

Exactly!

Noticed another noise when I took it out for a test spin before the commute tomorrow.

Just in my head I think...I hope!

Thanks unfazed glad to know I got it right. Fingers crossed!

His Dudeness · « **Reply #43 on:** 12 November 2012, 09:13:28 pm »

oil her up straight away or you'll be back at square one

darrsi · « **Reply #44 on:** 13 November 2012, 12:55:57 am »

You're starting to sound like me, i hear every noise going, which ain't a bad thing i s'pose!

Really funny thing is, when i move my bike at work, without my crash helmet on, i stall it, i just can't get used to the noise difference, yet with the lid on i'm spot on?

philshaq · « **Reply #45 on:** 13 November 2012, 07:36:13 am »

I oiled it up before putting the chain on soaked it in chain lube. Should I have stripped the whitestuff off with paraffin?

I thought I'd leave it on as it looked like it was up to the job...

I had to move my bike the other week with my gear off. Was a bit strange. didnt stall it but corners were strange!

I did used to move the bike from the front of the house to the back without my helmet on...bit cheeky I know...until a copper caught me at it!

caretaker · « **Reply #46 on:** 13 November 2012, 05:59:14 pm »

always used split links. not dead yet.

His Dudeness · « **Reply #47 on:** 13 November 2012, 09:26:05 pm »

Quote from: caretaker on 13 November 2012, 05:59:14 pm

always used split links. not dead yet.

think a rivet is recommended on anything above 250cc

philshaq · « **Reply #48 on:** 13 November 2012, 09:32:57 pm »

I couldn't find a split link for the standard chain on a fazer...

unfazed · « **Reply #49 on:** 13 November 2012, 09:43:28 pm »

Wonder if there is a bit of confusion in terms of split link and soft link.
Many use the term split link when they mean soft link because it is split in two.
The link philshaq used is a soft link so called, because the head of the rivit is softer than the body of the rivit to allow flating of the rivit over the side plate.
Split link has a spring clip to hold in the side plate.
Now you know