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Messages - Carter
1
« on: 06 December 2017, 07:56:29 pm »
I found that chain wax doesn't hold as much crud and dirt as the sticky, stringy aerosol lubes.
Tried most types on and off road all through the year and stuck with the wax. Seems to be much like the stuff on brand new chains.
2
« on: 17 August 2017, 02:58:34 pm »
There's some pics on post 40 and 48 if you go to my profile. They're on photobucket so be prepared for ads and popups.
Never quite sure how to work that site.
Back to the above posts, I'd say streetfighter, it's got bars.
"Moses rode his triumph up to the crowd and said from here on thou cafe racer shalt have drops or clip-ons"
(The Bible)
3
« on: 16 August 2017, 03:29:09 pm »
Take care with your chain run, I've gone down a chain size and used a kwak front sprocket with an offset to give a bit of extra clearance from the swingarm. It gets pretty close where the nylon runner is. If it's any help I could take a few measurements from mine if you get stuck.
Edit- just saw you're looking at the later swing arm. Mine's the early model R6. 5EB I think.
4
« on: 14 August 2017, 06:51:34 pm »
So they knew the sprocket nut would come off ? ? ? 
5
« on: 14 August 2017, 11:06:09 am »
Ah, this is interesting, my first post on here was about whether the speedo and rev counter play a part in the ignition timing, I've got a digital speedo/rev counter instead of the standard unit so no communication between the clocks and the ignition system, the carbs were full of crud when I bought the bike so until they'd been stripped and properly cleaned, I was clutching at straws why it ran poorly. The good news is, even though I've never ridden a standard Fazer, mine seems fine, nice idle, good throttle response and no noticeable flat spots (even tho there's a train tunnel of a tailpipe on it) I had a play with the TPS after I'd cleaned the carbs out and by trial and error (no rev counter display) It's running fine. Unless I'm really missing something , I'm not too worried about the role of the speed sensor in the ignition timing. I'm not a fan of fly by wire electronic gubbins and sensors etc. They're great when they're working but never seem to be fixable at the side of the road. Fuel injected lawn mowers are on the way so I reckon the days of setting gaps with a Rizla lid and riding off are well gone 
6
« on: 06 July 2017, 05:48:00 pm »
Don't know if it's any help but I've got ZXR750 Usd's on mine with R6 wheels front and back (R6 swingarm too). I don't know what mods were done as they were fitted when I bought the bike.
Another option would be some slab yokes made to suit whatever you want to fit.
7
« on: 16 May 2017, 06:39:40 pm »
Count me in too
Cheers..
8
« on: 18 February 2017, 01:22:23 am »
Heat could be your friend here. Small oxy or jewellers torch . Plug may need heating /cooling a few times to expand and contract it enough with a bit of diesel or plus gas between heatings. A steady hand and fuel moved to a safe place recommended.
9
« on: 18 February 2017, 01:17:40 am »
If they can make them for a realistic price I'd be up for a set. I'd need red for a fast one if there's colour options
10
« on: 31 October 2016, 05:04:29 pm »
I used Birchwood Casey rust and blue remover to eat the rust on mine. It's for guns but is pretty strong stuff. There's pits and all sorts once you get the rust lumps off so hit that with files and fine emery until it was flat enough to polish , then got cracking with the polishing mops and autosol for the hard to reach parts. They'll go yellow/gold again soon enough but I can keep on top of that.
It'll get thinner and thinner where stubborn rust has been removed so keep this in mind while you're working on them. A scraper will help loosen things if they won't budge.
It's not a high grade stainless on the systems, that's a cost thing. Once they're presentable they're a lot easier to keep looking good and they're definitely better than mild steel headers , chromed or not.
Another thing I haven't tried is spirits of salts, it's hydrochloric acid based (I think) so may not be the best stuff to be splashing around. It's gets corrosion off fast tho.
11
« on: 26 October 2016, 06:16:49 pm »
Thanks for the links, that's an interesting read. Bring back leaded petrol ! It never did us oldies any harm;)
12
« on: 17 October 2016, 06:38:09 pm »
Quarter of a mile ! In this weather ! Where's my Robin reliant keys
13
« on: 14 October 2016, 05:59:22 pm »
Ha, I love this forum
14
« on: 13 October 2016, 07:01:09 pm »
Every time I decide to go out on my bike lately, I put my lid on but then, wet stuff starts falling out of the sky and it seems to be getting colder all the time. Is this a common problem or have I bought a lemon ?
15
« on: 08 September 2016, 09:31:59 pm »
Do you think it'd fit over the standard subframe ? It's looks like it could well do.
16
« on: 08 September 2016, 09:27:28 pm »
There's always the option of a small frame inside the seat unit that could bolt directly to the standard subframe ? I've not got a standard frame on mine so can't picture how to go about it tho sorry. I'm guessing it's do-able all the same. I put an LC seat and tailpiece on my old Harris but made it so the original battery box, fittings and seat unit could go back on. Maybe it's time to reach for the hacksaw Then again, maybe it's time to have my tools confiscated ! Here's a pic of a bare frame I'd looked at for ideas before I bought mine.
17
« on: 08 September 2016, 07:39:50 pm »
I looked at that one when I was planning to build one. Saw another with a 916 or similar seat unit on too, that looked like it could fit on without altering the subframe. There's the old Harris F1 tailpiece but not sure if they're still available. They were quite big so may cover/hide the standard subframe.
If you tap in "motorbike race seat unit " into that auction site there are lots of different types which could be adapted, the downside is that you need to try them on to the bike to see if they'd do the job.
18
« on: 06 September 2016, 02:00:34 pm »
Just a thought but did you check the adjustment at the engine end of the cable ?
Could there be too much free play at the locknut and adjuster screw that live under the rubber bung on the sprocket cover ?
19
« on: 06 September 2016, 01:54:35 pm »
I've got an R6 seat on mine, I didn't do the work but the subframe has been altered to suit it. Whoever did it has done a cracking job, the pillion seat release cable and lock are all there and the angles all look right. The seat has been altered slightly at the front and all fits nice so I'm guessing the R1 unit would work too.
20
« on: 04 September 2016, 09:35:28 pm »
Got my grips earlier this week, they're 120mm long, it says SB short on the pack so looks like there's two lengths. I've not got bar end weights but they don't supply the plastic end plugs anymore, seem to remember they used to supply glue with them too but never mind eh. They feel harder than the last ones I had but that could've down to them being new. Just gotta get my new risers and renthals now and on they'll go.
21
« on: 27 August 2016, 10:07:29 pm »
I wouldn't worry about it if the grips ain't rubbing. It's a bugger when things like that happen tho eh.
22
« on: 27 August 2016, 09:59:42 pm »
While i'm on the subject,what is the difference between Red & Black plug caps please??? Cheers Ray [/quote] Red caps definitely make you go faster
23
« on: 27 August 2016, 11:46:54 am »
Was the spacer like a large washer ? If so it'd be for the throttle side between grip and the throttle body.
24
« on: 26 August 2016, 06:50:53 pm »
Good to hear you managed to get hold of them (no pun intended) mine should be here on Tuesday.
I'm not 100% certain but I think they make two different length grips.
I saw what I thought was them in a bike shop last week, they were identical , even had superbike written on them but they weren't made by galindo.
25
« on: 23 August 2016, 11:21:37 pm »
A quick blat up the road with the air filter out may help tell if that's the problem. Check for loose bits and bobs in the airbox before you set off though.
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