Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: hopefiendboy on 09 December 2018, 09:36:22 am
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Morning all
Was stripping the radiator off the bike to get access to the front of the engine and GODAMMIT one of the small aluminium pipes that comes out of the thing came off. It came off really easily and I can see why- its only a push fit into the rad itself- and with the length of pipe the leverage must have been too much.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7qaBFN_MdvYjal-srptBLY6R4_dSBs3X66iVC38e5wlT0vHeQGRYzVRQbOeJuw4Qdc62tVyo55hnJTCH4DBMzUf99Rvxygmywemas74eNUAEXdAfDSMskjU2gQsUA8Wprq1AEFlhdZxVPZarXV3GKoF882gTKITEQufl3bAZrEadzjr1NuqIA64cjrH889e2Fpizz7a-2zmlt-0y--z0opm4t9qHphPiOUmkju2MyCFGupyuZlzO15d30ioGQrTHPLrX2rkmDwK7uZfjBW88UCxLocsXrwVypmJli-IjziOd77rk0WMYw_JJxmUc3q_jnbcMzNQOMjligivbC6CUdO7oIymq8CM9i9GmE4XGFvEOACp-JBFOXeOW0zb-QkxxoOjkLV1t_MtOCPnByuC8kiJqcvDpcOtFG4VSV052JxfudxpTP4jcoEyeHGY9uZDfJSvA0IFio7Y6lp3TUs9OHE_L6W4g0UVb7LAPgAatLJOL5963B4isoWREpbKdzQRCtqAlOaH0QdIEuQFkziy5uG82Bbi8ZSZEsU1iHaoXP5EdPQ4ghJhKpgh3abBz1_Zdh4v8SgxyCS2VXlyv7CcFPRzXpB3lf4_teFvz7ipEXyq-MgALuQlJqJLfrxJceI2MRkwNqCSnRVQp958OdG0-hyls=w1601-h901-no)
As the rest of the radiator is in very good good nick (its the original radiator)[size=78%], I'm willing to go down the repair route for this. Now I have used a metalwork shop before for alu welding and I'm thinking this may lend itself to this as opposed to me having a shot with JB weld on the thing.
Has anyone else had a similar issue before?
Cheers in advance![/size]
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brazing or soldering would probably work better than welding because welding needs higher temperatures because when you weld you're melting what you're repairing and melting the filler material so you need higher temperatures whereas brazing or soldering you just melt the filler material so you need lower temperature so less likely to burn through. a radiator shop or old school metalwork shop should be able to do it.
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Be very careful applying any heat to the rad the cooling fins and capillaries are most likely soldered with a Lead/Zink solder and a bit too much heat you could end up with a build it yourself radiator kit.
There is a resin putty material out there called Milliput that is brilliant
(I have used it on my Merc door locking system when a pipe snapped on the drivers door lock that works by compressed air).
Milliput did a brilliant job and you can mould it into a great shape so it forms a collar of reinforcement around the joint and can be over painted with a bit of silver or black and you would not see it.
Be sure to mix the two parts very very well together if you go down this route.
I keep a new tube in my shed all the time the stuff is brilliant.
When it sets it is as hard as china.
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That stuff looks brilliant! I've got a cracked toilet pan that needs sorting, that'll do the jobby no probs.
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Cheers for the replies!
Like the Pun CeticDog :-) :rolleyes :lol
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milliput is good but it would be better either brazed or soldered that how they are made in the first place
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I also have some miliput in the shed but have the terracotta one that I used to hide/ fill some holes in some brick work.
I can recomend JB weld High Heat version, I used it to repair a hole in my collector box area on the Fazer and so far it has kept in place after other stuff fell off very quickly which was Chemical metal-- fell off and Gun Gum --- fell off.This stuff, same deal as miliput two part putty
(http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=23874.0;attach=32028;image)
(http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=23874.0;attach=32032;image)(http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=23874.0;attach=32033;image)
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use jb Weld original
it has a decomposition temperature of >220°C (>428°F)
allows time to set
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JB-WELD-STEEL-REINFORCED-EPOXY-ORIGINAL-COLD-WELD-FORMULA/352421270163?hash=item520df1d293:g:iHAAAOSwxNxbY00O:rk:3:pf:0 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JB-WELD-STEEL-REINFORCED-EPOXY-ORIGINAL-COLD-WELD-FORMULA/352421270163?hash=item520df1d293:g:iHAAAOSwxNxbY00O:rk:3:pf:0)
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Which ever putty you decide on I am sure either will do the job just fine, ensure that you clean the area with a course emery paper to give a key and remove any dirt. Also make sure that the hose is attached to the pipe before fixing the alloy pipe to the radiator as twisting pushing and screwing the pipe back on could cause issues.
(Support the re[pair with string, bungees or block it in place while it sets)
I know with Milliput you can model the putty with moist fingers to give a smooth and tidy finish, It may be the same with others.
I have read somewhere that you can even drill and tap a thread into Milliput.
I will buy some of the J B Weld and give it a try, its always good to have two types of weapon in your armoury. :2guns :smash
Thanks for the post Sharpie :D
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Don't know the situation or the rad pipe in question, but wonder if it lent itself to something like the pic below to reinforce the joint after it was made.
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Cheers for all the replies so far.
I am in between jobs on the bike just now- namely 2 snapped exhaust studs whilst removing the nuts so I am considering removing the head to get this along to a machine shop (go full stainless with new studs and nuts). Its on a long to do list including:
Forks- tidy up, all seals, linear springs and emulators mod, paint legs and fork crowns
Frame- touch up main frame with black where needed
Engine- stainless exhaust studs and nuts, valve clearance checks, painting of engine
Rear shock- R6 rear shock mod
Front wheel- Repaint, new tyre
Need to deal with the oil feed pipe too- the existing one is a bit rusty!!
TTFN
Paul
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Maybe not such a good idea to have stainless studs and nuts. This has been discussed before, and a better option would be steel studs and stainless nuts, with the possible option of stainless cap nuts to seal the end of the stud. It's been known for a stainless/stainless combination to gall, or fuse together. The steel stud/ stainless nut/cap nut, was the route I chose to go on my thou, and has worked out fine.
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Maybe not such a good idea to have stainless studs and nuts. This has been discussed before, and a better option would be steel studs and stainless nuts, with the possible option of stainless cap nuts to seal the end of the stud. It's been known for a stainless/stainless combination to gall, or fuse together. The steel stud/ stainless nut/cap nut, was the route I chose to go on my thou, and has worked out fine.
I am with Robbo on the S/S nuts on S/S studs, Galling or Cold Weld can happen and if it does you will never move then again, as robbo said either plain studs with S/S nuts or S/S studs with plain steel nuts. Light smear of copper slip on the thread before doing them up. Again what I did was to spin 8 domed nuts over the top of the stud nuts, they act as locking nuts and help keep the moisture out.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-FZS600-FAZER-98-03-HEL-BRAIDED-STEEL-OIL-FEED-PIPE/153079619889?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160706105120%26meid%3Dba8a00bea8e8412d986d874d04880e30%26pid%3D100508%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D153079619889&_trksid=p2045573.c100508.m3226 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-FZS600-FAZER-98-03-HEL-BRAIDED-STEEL-OIL-FEED-PIPE/153079619889?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160706105120%26meid%3Dba8a00bea8e8412d986d874d04880e30%26pid%3D100508%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D153079619889&_trksid=p2045573.c100508.m3226)
oil feed pipe
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-FZS600-FAZER-98-03-HEL-BRAIDED-STEEL-OIL-FEED-PIPE/153079619889?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160706105120%26meid%3Dba8a00bea8e8412d986d874d04880e30%26pid%3D100508%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D153079619889&_trksid=p2045573.c100508.m3226 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-FZS600-FAZER-98-03-HEL-BRAIDED-STEEL-OIL-FEED-PIPE/153079619889?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160706105120%26meid%3Dba8a00bea8e8412d986d874d04880e30%26pid%3D100508%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D153079619889&_trksid=p2045573.c100508.m3226)
oil feed pipe
Wow that seems expensive, I put a set of cobra twin front braids (Full Pipes) and a rear braided on the FZS for about 70 quid.
But then I guess its a bout a 10th of the price of the original Yamaha oil pipe, that's if you can get one still.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-FZS600-FAZER-98-03-HEL-BRAIDED-STEEL-OIL-FEED-PIPE/153079619889?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160706105120%26meid%3Dba8a00bea8e8412d986d874d04880e30%26pid%3D100508%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D153079619889&_trksid=p2045573.c100508.m3226 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-FZS600-FAZER-98-03-HEL-BRAIDED-STEEL-OIL-FEED-PIPE/153079619889?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160706105120%26meid%3Dba8a00bea8e8412d986d874d04880e30%26pid%3D100508%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D153079619889&_trksid=p2045573.c100508.m3226)
Pity you can't use our discount code which would get 25% off.
oil feed pipe
Wow that seems expensive, I put a set of cobra twin front braids (Full Pipes) and a rear braided on the FZS for about 70 quid.
But then I guess its a bout a 10th of the price of the original Yamaha oil pipe, that's if you can get one still.