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Messages - Soapy
26
« on: 08 July 2013, 11:52:13 am »
Thanks darrsi 
27
« on: 08 July 2013, 11:32:45 am »
Just a general observation for anybody chasing a misfire or stutter. During my investigation I cleaned my carbs, replaced my plugs, replaced fuel filter, cut back my ignition leads did a carb balance none of which did anything. My symptoms only came to light after riding the bike hard for a few miles and then she would misfire on hard throttle at low revs. I would recommend anybody who has a misfire symptom to replace the plug caps. You can get 4 NGK replacements for less than a tenner.
Another possible red herring symptom is a rough idle. I have a K+N filter and a Beowolf end can with baffle in. Even after doing all of the above my bike still doesn't idle smoothly but rides great so I'm not worrying about it.
28
« on: 08 July 2013, 11:20:52 am »
I joined the Forum when I was searching for an answer for my bike missing. Thanks to the folk on the site I found that my plug caps were braking down. Replaced and bike is running sweet again. Looking through the site I noticed that the front sprocket nut can be an issue. My bike has only done 3600 miles but it is 10 years old. Before I take the cover off can somebody tell me what I'm looking for. Even better does somebody have a picture of a before and after sprocket nut replacement.
29
« on: 30 June 2013, 07:10:40 pm »
As far as I know,
I only bought the bike a couple of weeks ago from a dealer, so it may not be.
with the ignition off, the battery reads 12v. With the ignition on (engine off) and put under load from the pass light switch, the battery gives a reading of 11v.
Is that normal or would it maybe need a charge/replacing?
A good battery off load should be at least 12.5v. After a good run or charge mine reads 12.8v. See what it drops to when you hit the starter. My battery last year gave me no warning when it failed. I started it as normal and went to get petrol. Came out after paying and when I went to start it, nothing. Wouldn't even bump. Had to push it a mile home. I put a meter across the battery and pressed the starter, nothing and the battery dropped to 9v. Just to make sure it was a duff battery I jumped it off the car and she started straight away. Lifted revs to 3500 and battery voltage was 13.5v so charging system ok. Bought new battery. Problem sorted.
30
« on: 28 June 2013, 12:37:47 pm »
Soapy, what do u reckon to the rear view? Does it help? Saw these ages ago but as they were new and didnt fancy just risking it so i bought a different helmet.
Sorry for any confusion. I was asking a question at the bottom of his quote. I have a Shoei XR1000 which is quite noisy. I was asking Tmation a couple of questions about the Reevu.
32
« on: 25 June 2013, 04:32:06 pm »
Thanks so far guys. Given me something think about.
33
« on: 25 June 2013, 11:18:50 am »
Chatting with a few mates last night and considering doing a European Tour next year. Love my 600 but think I might be better off with a bigger bike to do it. I like both the Fazer Z1S and Fazer 8. Is there anyone who lives near Aberdeen who has a Fazer 8 so that I can see one in the flesh. Any comments/opinions welcome.
34
« on: 24 June 2013, 04:31:44 pm »
Hi Folks. Insurance renewal time. I've been with Carol Nash for years. Just thought I would ask an open question who uses who and why? Apologies if it has been covered before.
35
« on: 22 June 2013, 12:53:02 pm »
Welcome from a recent newbie. Only been here a short time and found that the folks are friendly and full of good advice. Picture of new bike please.
36
« on: 20 June 2013, 02:38:30 pm »
Hey Soapy, really hope that's it sorted for you mate! Send me a PM if you fancy a fazer shetland meet. haha!
Chris
Cheers Chris Got a wedding to go to this weekend then going South for a week. But will keep in touch.
37
« on: 20 June 2013, 02:36:43 pm »
Stick with the one's i said as i have them on my bike and know for sure that they'll be okay.
Glad to hear you got it sussed
Thanks darrsi. Fleabay has just been hit for 4x Caps
38
« on: 20 June 2013, 02:13:13 pm »
nice one soapy,must be a great feeling  .....love to see the video of you dancing round your bike 
Thanks red. Hope you are as lucky. If wasn't for your issue coming up on a Google search I wouldn't have got here.
39
« on: 20 June 2013, 02:09:45 pm »
nice one soapy,must be a great feeling .....love to see the video of you dancing round your bike
Thanks red. Hope you are as lucky. If wasn't for your issue coming up on a Google search I wouldn't have got here.
40
« on: 20 June 2013, 02:00:34 pm »
41
« on: 20 June 2013, 01:55:07 pm »
Sussed at last. Rode the bike today for 10 miles with no issues. Then 5th gear 3000 revs and the dreaded stuttering started again. So for a couple of miles I thrashed her and then went to 3000 revs and pulled open the throttle really bad now. Pulled over to look around the bike to look for any clues. EUREKA!!! I was bending down on the left hand side when I heard a ticking sound. Looking closer and there was mega amount of sparking from the bottom rubber on No1 spark plug cap. People must have thought I was nuts as I was dancing around my bike at the side of the road. I pulled the rubber off and inspected the bottom of the cap for cracks. None obvious but I put it back on without the rubber. Started the bike up no sparks. Rode it for 20 miles, slowing down loads of times to less than 3000 revs and opened the throttle with no stuttering. Hurray. New NGK plug caps on order. darssi thanks for the info. Is there a difference between SD05F and SD05FM (I was given this number by a bike dealer on the phone when I asked them which ones I needed for my bike). Thanks to everybody for there guidance and input. I've learnt a hell of a lot about my bike from you guys and really appreciate it. I did take a short video on my phone but don't think I can upload. But did take a picture and you can just see a spark on the rubber. In real time there were sparks everywhere. 
42
« on: 20 June 2013, 10:40:53 am »
I'm thinking of buying a replacement coil to hang in whilst fault finding. I believe a cheaper and better mod is to fit NGK plug caps to the leads. Can anybody tell me which ones i need to buy for my 600 2003. Also has anybody bought an aftermarket coil. Cheers John S
43
« on: 20 June 2013, 10:36:31 am »
Check the rubber plugs on the vacuum take of points as they can crack and go unnoticed.
Check the wires to the pickup where it enters the alternator cover.
It is good idea is to take all connectors apart and spray with WD40 while checking for chaffed wiring.
A common place for corrosion is on the fuel pump connector and the pickup up connector.
Hi Unfazed. I checked the Vacuum plugs when I did the carb balance. They look ok. Visually checked the loom from the Pick Up Coil we're it comes out of the LH Engine Cover. Also had a look at the connectors under the LH side cover. Nothing obvious there. The Haynes manual states if you want to replace the pick up coil as its part of the Alternator it has to be replaced as well. Need to be sure it's the problem as that will not be cheap to buy.
44
« on: 19 June 2013, 10:51:03 pm »
Spent a bit more time on the bike today. Ran it for nearly five miles with no issues. Whilst it was ok tried putting the choke on to see if it made any difference. It didn't. Tried going down to 3000 revs several times and every time it picked up ok. Got to about 5 miles and she started to play up. Pulling any more than 1/4 throttle resulted in severe stuttering. Tried putting on the choke whilst the stuttering was happening, didn't make any difference. Road her home. Replaced fuel filter and a friend lent me a set of vacuum gauges to check the carb balance. Had to adjust 3 & 4 ever so slightly. Bike was now getting hot and fan was running as expected. Blipping the throttle when the bike is hot results in a little stutter as you flick the throttle. After the balance I thought I would remove No's 1 & 4 Diaphragms. They look and feel fine. The rubber is soft and supple and no signs of holes. I also removed the plugs and apart from being very slightly black they were fine. After I had put everything back to together the bike had cooled down a bit. I started her up and blipped the throttle without any real sign of the stutter. Got to be heat/time related. I'm now leaning more to an ignition or some kind of electrical fault. If it was a carb/jets/diaphragm issue then surely it would occur from the start. What effect would a pick up sensor breaking down/overheating have? Have a short couple of video's I took on my Iphone of the carb balance but don't know how to load them.  
45
« on: 18 June 2013, 08:15:57 pm »
soapy and chris could start a fazer Shetland island club, and we could all pop over.  welcome soapy from sunny wales.
I'm glad you didn't say Sunny Shetland Island Club. It's been pissing down and really misty lately. But when the Sun is Shining the roads and the scenery are some of the best in the country for biking.
46
« on: 18 June 2013, 08:11:03 pm »
Just to clarify, when the bike is cold, if you go full throttle it will go up the rev range fine with no stuttering? But once the bike is warm it will stutter as soon as you give it full throttle? Are you using choke when it's cold? If not put some choke on when its cold and then give it full throttle. If it stutters, then this may point towards over fuelling or not enough air as the problem when the engine is up to temperature. Also you can test this again by seeing if putting choke on when the bike is hot makes the stutter worse. Let us know what happens when you try this. Cheers.
Stuttering, or bogging down can be caused by too much air!
Happened to my bike when one of the carb rubbers folded in on itself when my mechanic refitted them, and number 3 inlet rubber was letting air in.
Everytime i went to overtake or generally give the throttle a bit of welly it would splutter all over the place and bog down.
I had to have the bike in elsewhere to get them to look at my carbs and they showed me what they found.
yeah true too lean mixture will do that as well. If that is case here, when he puts the choke on during the warm ride it should make the stuttering less noticeable as he would be increasing the fuel to air mixture. Either way wacking the choke on will hopefully show us something.. or nothing maybe.. Although if it was too lean that would cause idle hunting and make it difficult to start as well? Which I don't think he has mentioned. It will be interesting to see what's causing this!
Not necessarily, i only noticed problems when opening the throttle right up, idle was fine and if i rode the bike easily there wasn't really an issue.
I even had 3 mechanics ride it and "they say" that they couldn't feel anything wrong, but obviously i ride the thing every day and knew damn well it wasn't right.
It cost me a fortune to get that sorted. As the carbs were off and i was booked into PDQ already i told him he may as well clean them up while i was there. 
Damn, that doesn't sound fun at all. did you need a new carb rubber or jus reposition the old one?
It was literally just folded over in on itself by about an inch, he showed me it first then just unfolded it.
As it was number 3 carb it would never have have been seen or noticed unless it was removed, and i don't know how big the gap was letting air in, but i s'pose any air at all will make it misbehave.
It was accidental and just one of those things, BUT, i was really disappointed that 3 very experienced people couldn't feel the problem because quite frankly it was bloody obvious that it wasn't right in my opinion!
I went back to them 3 or 4 times then gave up wasting my time and took it to PDQ instead.
Hi Darrsi. My bike was doing it before I removed the carbs. I have given the inlet rubbers a look and there isn't any sign of cracking etc. It looks like I may be taking the carbs of again. If i do I'm going to take the inlet and airbox rubbers off for close inspection. I'll report back tomorrow. Thanks again everybody.
47
« on: 18 June 2013, 08:03:27 pm »
Just to clarify, when the bike is cold, if you go full throttle it will go up the rev range fine with no stuttering? But once the bike is warm it will stutter as soon as you give it full throttle? Are you using choke when it's cold? If not put some choke on when its cold and then give it full throttle. If it stutters, then this may point towards over fuelling or not enough air as the problem when the engine is up to temperature. Also you can test this again by seeing if putting choke on when the bike is hot makes the stutter worse. Let us know what happens when you try this. Cheers.
Information overload at the moment. But all ideas gratefully received. I am going to try it again tomorrow before I go any further. I normally start the bike on choke and reduce it over a couple of minutes. Then ride off with no choke. I'm sure when I rode it the other day, initially the bike seemed to be ok but when I started to give it the beans, that is when it started to bog down. Plan of attack tomorrow weather permitting. 1. Try riding it gently all the time see if it behaves 2. Ride hard and try and get it to stutter. If it does, try putting the choke on to see if it makes any difference. 3. If it does stutter I'm going to replace the fuel filter and check out the No4 Diaphragm. If that doesn't help. 5.Set fire to her. Only kidding 
48
« on: 18 June 2013, 10:53:09 am »
Jesus, I didn't know they had motorcycles on the shetlans islands...Bet its cold in the winter on that!!
Only the young and hardy ride a bike in the winter here. Or the poor sods who have no option. I'm getting to old to ride in all weathers.
49
« on: 18 June 2013, 10:47:32 am »
Except that mine's doing it with standard can too... 
Hi Nick. Looks we are part of a small club with similar issues. Hopefully between us we can get sorted. Cheers John S
50
« on: 18 June 2013, 10:40:58 am »
This sounds most likely to be the carb sliders not doing the right thing to me too. The fact that the bike runs OK at max power if you let it get there gradually indicates that fuel flow, sparks etc are up to the job, but opening the throttle quickly is resulting in the sliders jamming instead of rising at the correct rate.
With the carbs off, apply gentle pressure with your finger from the airbox side of the slider and you will be able to compare how freely they move. Chances are, one or two will be suffering more friction than the others because the PTFE coating has worn away.
When you remove the carbs disconnect the throttle cables at the handlebar first. With them loose at that end they can pull back an extra foot which gives plenty of free play to get the carbs out... and then disconnecting from the pulley on the carb bank is simple.
Thanks Fazerider. Another thing I should have checked when I had them out. I'm learning the hard way. The bike has only done 3500 miles so is it likely the coating would have worn away already?. But will try pushing the sliders up and see if there is anything obvious.
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