Bikes, Hints'n'Tips > FZS600 Fazer

Ignition coil life?

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Likesbikes:

--- Quote from: BBROWN1664 on 07 April 2024, 03:37:08 pm ---sounds like a blocked jet on #3

--- End quote ---

Unfortunately it would seem so. As said I’m just trying to eliminate simpler things before resigning myself to that. Swapped the coils over and #3 cylinder is still missing/cold so it’s not that. The primary resistance is also a touch high on both, so they might be on their way out anyway. However it doesn’t seem to be the cause of this problem so they can stay for now.

As an aside I notice the replacement NGK caps are 5k rather than the specified 10k, what difference would that make?

BBROWN1664:
if #2 and #3 are still working/failing whichever way round the leads from the coils are, the problem is fuel or air, not ignition. #2 and #3 both use the same coil and both fire at the same time.

So, its either the carb not supplying fuel or the valves not allowing air in/out of the cylinder. My money is on the carb

Likesbikes:
That’s what I said, it’s not the ignition side as I’ve swapped the coils over completely from cylinders 1/4 and 2/3 and nothing has changed.

The coils resistance is a bit over spec but they’re working so they can have a reprieve. The question re the resistance of the caps (which also seem to work fine) is more out of curiosity.

Will be removing the carbs for a clean out next weekend, it’s not the first time with this bike but I’d rather have avoided that. This bike is the bane of my life and it’s not even mine haha

unfazed:
Your plug caps will  give trouble long before the Coils ever will.Thankfully the caps can be dismantled and cleaned out. The biggest issue is the carbon resistors which can go faulty taking the resistance up to Meg Ohms which cause the caps to track on the outside and can be seen clearly at night.
I like the look of the original caps and usually buy a cheap set of NGK caps and break them open and use the resistor as it has a stainless outer wire wound resistor and will usually last as long s the coils.When dismantling the originals there is a tiny brass spacer which is usually corroded and breaks if you look at it the wrong way, :D but can be discarded when using the NGK resistor. The spring should fall out but may be corroded and stuck. Inside the cap there is a flat brass part which is part of the screw which needs to be cleaned usually scratched clean with a sharpened screwdriver.  Clean the spring and reassemble. Use Dielectric grease on the boots and all will be well for years.
On the carb front it is as you said most likely the pilot jets. I gave up trying to clean them and now replace them. The reason being that the internal of the pilot jet has a web type structure which is virtually impossible to clean properly.Replace the O-rings on the float valve and main jet with Viton/FKM or FFKM ones and it will save taking them apart  for a while again. Sizes are in the download section https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=93

Likesbikes:
Hi again chaps and cheers for all the input.

Had the carbs out this evening and the bike is now mostly back together. Together enough to run anyway. Think I’ve got somewhere with the pilot jet and associated passages, the engine really picks up when blipping the throttle however the idle is rougher than ever now, although I also tinkered with the balancing screws while everything was out. The suspect number three was the only one where you couldn’t see a sliver of daylight through the butterfly and I couldn’t help myself 😖

Will get the vacuum gauges out tomorrow, bit late now to be annoying the neighbours. Will update when I get round to it

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