This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - willmckeand
1
« on: 19 October 2014, 07:29:40 pm »
Hi guys,
I have the same problem, and I need to know what size the screws are and where I can get hold of some new ones?
Thanks!
2
« on: 20 August 2013, 10:43:11 am »
Oh dear oh dear.... good one! 
3
« on: 19 August 2013, 10:58:19 pm »
my bad! This is why I don't like typing on my phone.... Cheers again guys, and you're right, I'm so glad I looked into it further instead of just going with what I had and ended up crashing Will
4
« on: 18 August 2013, 06:29:26 pm »
Guys....it's embarrassing but I'm going to have to confess that it appears as though I wasn't putting the pork back together in the right order.... I was sure I noted how everything went when taking it apart but I had the damper in the very bottom part of the fork, rather then protruding into the bottom from the bottom of the slider. This obviously caused the the slider to rest on the damper making the overall length of the fork longer meaning that the 475ml of oil didn't reach as far up the tube as it should  I finally got round to taking the whole thing apart again and after studying the exploded diagram in the Yamaha service manual (not the crap Haynes one) I figured out how it's meant to go together. She's back up and running now so all is good. Thanks so much for your suggestions, unfortunately me being inexperienced when it comes to suspension didn't seem like the problem at the time -_- Will
5
« on: 17 August 2013, 12:31:10 pm »
I've measured the oil that I drained out of the forks, it was about 450ml a side, so do you think I should just put 475 in each as specified and ignore the 181mm gap from the top? Or fill them up so the oil is 181mm from the top which could end up being about 600/700ml in each fork?
Thanks
6
« on: 15 August 2013, 07:10:19 pm »
Thanks for replying guys,
I've pumped the fork loads and tried to get as much air out as possible, but of course if anything this would make the oil level go down! The bottom bolt has been done up with thread lock and nothing has leaked out the bottom so I just can't work it out!
As far as I can see I've done it exactly by the book, and by John Silvas guide in the How To's
Would it be a problem if I just bought more oil and made both forks up to the specified level? I think that if I did this there would be at least 700ml in each fork to get them both up to 121mm from the top!
Cheers again!
7
« on: 15 August 2013, 05:54:11 pm »
Hi guys, I've put 475cc/ml of oil in the fork with the spring etc out of it, and that amount of oil is no way near enough?
I's about 280mm down from the top with 500ml in, whereas my Haynes manual says it should be 121mm from the top!
If I put any more in I won't have enough for the other fork, and while I could buy more I think I must be missing something that's making my level so low. I'm measuring this with the fork tube fully compressed into the slider (as far as I can get it to go anyway)
Any suggestions greatly appreciated!
Will
8
« on: 15 August 2013, 05:39:41 pm »
Hi guys, I've put 475cc/ml of oil in the fork with the spring etc out of it, and that amount of oil is no way near enough?
I's about 280mm down from the top with 500ml in, whereas my Haynes manual says it should be 121mm from the top!
If I put any more in I won't have enough for the other fork, and while I could buy more I think I must be missing something that's making my level so low.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated!
Will
9
« on: 18 April 2013, 10:07:31 am »
I have a Blue Flame exhaust, and it was a nightmare to get on properly because the link pipe was for an Aprilia RS1000. I cut the that link pipe in half and attached the side closest to the end can to the original Yamaha link pipe by heating one of them and hammering it over the other.....very tough but now it works great!
10
« on: 15 April 2013, 10:46:43 pm »
A really nice looking bike you've got there, which air filters are they? Also what sort of difference did they make to the performance?
Will
11
« on: 23 March 2013, 09:33:33 am »
Hi there, I changed mine a couple of months ago and followed the Haynes manual which worked fine, I think it's called the rear mudguard so maybe you're looking for the wrong thing in the manual?
12
« on: 18 March 2013, 01:35:10 pm »
Thanks anyway Dead Eye, I just wish I bought the set with two aswell  I'm currently taking the engine out to drill out the studs and tap the holes, and if I can't drill out the one with the broken stud extractor inside then that particular pipe will have to be attached with one nut! not the ideal solution, but it should work! Will
13
« on: 15 March 2013, 11:43:32 am »
I was stupid.....I bought the 6-13mm impact stud extractor only, and now the thread has stripped off the studs meaning the extractor won't grip and I cant find anywhere to buy the smaller one on its own!
14
« on: 10 March 2013, 05:57:28 pm »
Thanks Dead Eye, I was thinking it would come to either changing the head or getting the current one looked at, only thing is I won't have a lot of time to work on it in the next week or so  Do you think it's possible to remove the head without lifting the whole engine out? Cheers 
15
« on: 09 March 2013, 04:13:56 pm »
Update... While getting my Titanic exhausts off I managed to shear off 3 of the exhaust studs, I spent the day today trying to remove them with vice grips and by welding a nut to the stud and trying to get them out that way, which failed. I then went onto the stud extractor which eventually snapped off inside my cylinder head I don't know what to do now, I think I just need to buy another head as I think I'll have much much trying to drill out the stud extractor as they're so hard. Does anyone have any suggestions on what my next move might be? Or does anyone have a reasonable low milage head for sale? Thanks Will
16
« on: 08 March 2013, 02:05:37 pm »
I know i know, terrible state I don't know how they got so bad, she's only on 20k and always been garaged etc, I guess this years salty roads were too much for her  Thanks Dead Eye, I'll try a stud extractor first 
17
« on: 08 March 2013, 01:43:40 pm »
The other day Motorcycle News made the FZS600 their bike of the day, and the only bad thing they said about it was that the original downpipes rot away......just a couple of days before that, I'd noticed that mine were full of holes as shown below I also managed to shear off 3 of the studs while taking the downpipes off, has anyone got any advise about removing them? There is some stud sticking out of the engine still, im thinking of welding a nut to the top of them.
18
« on: 24 February 2013, 03:47:03 pm »
Not strictly relevant I know, but check out the print out for my restricted fazer....not even 33bhp!
19
« on: 17 February 2013, 08:38:35 am »
I think you will have issues when you hit a bump and your back wheel rises up in comparison with the plastic you want to cut out
Now THAT is a good point!  I have a tank bag but it's not ideal for carrying around uni once I'm there, I store my textile trousers under my seat which is quite a squeeze! So I till want to see if it can be done, maybe the wheel doesn't come up that far?
Thanks guys
20
« on: 16 February 2013, 02:55:38 pm »
I've logged almost every fill-up I've done on my restricted '98 Fazer, my average MPG is 57, so not too bad at all.
However, I do want to take my plugs out and have a look because I suspect she's running rich, on average I fill up about 11L and get around 136 miles out of it......is that good?
Will
21
« on: 16 February 2013, 02:31:41 pm »
Hey everyone,
While replacing my rear mudguard a few weeks back I realised I could probably gain more under seat storage by cutting out the curved part which comes upwards (the base of the under seat storage compartment) and replacing it with a flat piece of plastic to get extra room.
Since I've got a rear hugger I don't see why I need the mudguard to come up the way it does and it takes up valuable space in the under seat compartment.
Has anyone else thought about this/have any ideas? Any thoughts/input appreciated!
I think I'll have a practise with plastic welding on my old rear mudguard first!
Cheers all
Will
22
« on: 11 November 2012, 07:59:49 pm »
Hey there, I've just got myself an Oxford X30 tank bag and it's been great so far, looks really waterproof/sturdy and expands to hold a reasonable amount of stuff. Although of course I need to test it for more than a few rides to recommend it fully, it seems excellent so far.
Hope this helps at all
Will
24
« on: 06 November 2012, 02:48:14 pm »
Did my half hour commute today with the lights on with no problems thanks to a new H4 bulb! A couple of months ago I noticed that there was a wire bridging the H1 and the H4 but one end had been disconnected, so I re-connected this dodgy headlight mod, which as Fazerider points out is not a good as the proper one.
I've had it like this for over two months I think what must've happened was that over time the extra heat from having both filaments lit simultaneously has deteriorated the bulb, somehow increasing it's resistance thus melting my fuses.
Lesson learnt, and a set of Osram Nightbreaker Plus H1 and H4 on the way to hopefully improve the terrible headlights of our dear FZS600's.
Thanks again everyone for your input, I'll be sure to return the favour on here if I can one day!
Will
25
« on: 06 November 2012, 01:22:07 am »
hey there, if you email me at feel_the_noise@hotmail.co.uk I can send you pictures I took of my restrictors being measured calipers, you should be able to get the measurements from them. I just took the pictures quickly before I put them in for reference.
The ones I use work great, was dyno tested and gives 30hp but still does not hang around!
Will
|
Show Posts