uneven chain tightness

[aj1soad]

noticed for a few days now ive had a strange noise coming from my chain so i put the bike up on a stand and checked the chain. with the markers on the rear swing arm the wheel seems evenly centered. when i spin the wheel round the chain goes tighter in certain points. i took the rear sproket off and put it on a flat surface to check if it was bent but it seemed ok and when on the bike it only had a tiny wobble in it. i take it i need to replace the chain? but do i need to change the sprokets as well? if so where is the best place to get a chain and sproket set? thanx

[keratos]

Might not be chain.

Could be wheel alignment (front to rear), maybe swingarm, bearings, ... ??

As an aside, ALWAYS replace sprockets when replacing chain; to put a worn chain on new sprockets or indeed a new chain on worn sprockets, is folly.

http://www.bikespeeduk.com/chain-sprocket-kits/did-kits/did-vx-x-ring-kits/did-vx-x-ring-chain-sprocket-kit-yamaha-fzs600-fazer-1997-2003/prod_1647.html

Whats the noise anyway? upload a youtube vid

[stevierst]

Could just be as simple as a knackered chain, they do stretch in some areas, not all. So the result will be what you be described.
Don't however write off knackered sprocket carrier bearings. Had this also , but more often than not it's the chain if it's making clicking/knocking sounds.

[aj1soad]

thanx for the replys. i have tried the wheel alignment by adjusting it more one way than the other by about half a mm but that made it much worse. im not sure when the chain was changed last either but ive only done around 5k on it and its done 21k now. the sproket doesnt seem to be worn out though.

[aj1soad]

that website doesnt seem to be coming up with the chain and sproket for my bike :S its a 2003 model

[keratos]

that website doesnt seem to be coming up with the chain and sproket for my bike :S its a 2003 model

On the site, left hand bar, is a ... search ... tool !

[aj1soad]

done the
make: yamaha
model: 0600 FZS fazer 2003
category: chains and sprokets

all i get on the right hand side then is a blank white page :S

[mark]

http://www.mandp.co.uk/productsList.aspx?style=0&kw=chain%20and%20sprocket&bike=870-2003. Try there not sure how the prices stack up though

[darrsi]

Put bike on centre stand and look at the lower part of the chain and see if any links are at a slight angle, rather than horizontal.
If they are seized or stiff then that will cause a lumpy feeling on your left foot peg.


Chains will last a long time but only if properly maintained, so if it's been left out in rain a lot, or even worse when the roads are salty during winter then they can rust quite easily unless cleaned and lubed regularly.


Are you sure your chain isn't adjusted too tight as well, that can make them noisy?


If you're gonna buy a new chain then get sprockets as well, they're only a few quid extra in a kit.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+did+x+kit&_nkw=fzs+600+did+x+kit&_sacat=0&_from=R40

[unfazed]

A quick point on chain and sprocket wear.

I have 83000 miles on my 600 and on my second chain, it still does not pull off the rear sprocket and has only a slight tight spot.
Chains including cam chains always wear unevenly due to their working environment and manufacturing tolerance levels.
There are 2 reason it lasts well over 40000miles. 

1. I replace the front sprocket every 8 to 10000miles, regardless of how bad it is worn (takes about 30 minutes)
2. I use a scottoiler

The front sprocket is 15 teeth  and the rear is 48 teeth, which means the front sprocket wears 3 times faster than the rear and that is what wears the chain prematurely. Garages will not agree simply because they make money selling and fitting chain and sprocket kits.
Chatting to the local bike breaker whom I know quite well and who also sells and repairs bike about this and he says "for foc sake don't go telling everybody" .

Replacing the front regularly means less chain wear and since the front sprocket only costs about £7 or less it will cost me less than £30 over the life of the chain and rear sprocket. Scottoiler keeps it lubricated in all weather types.

I replaced the original chain with the Yamaha OEM kit which I bought on ebay as new old stock for £90 which includes the two OEM sprockets. it was cheaper than the DID Equivalent with sprockets.
I bought another one recently for £96 again new old stock. 

The scottoiler I bought when I bought the bike is still working and I only replaced the piece that attaches to the vacuum take off as I was replacing the Vacuum take off caps.

[keratos]

Great post unfazed

I have a DID x-ring kit to fit this weekend. After that I will use scottoiler and £7 front.

Naturally, when you do the front sprocket you drain oil first then fit new filter and fill with oil but do you also replace the sprocket cover gasket or something else?

[unfazed]

I usually time it to around an oil change but it is not necessary.

Put bike into 1st gear
Remove the gear linkage bolt and note the location of the punch mark on the shaft in relation to the slot in the linkage
Slide linkage off the shaft
Remove the 5 screws on the cover
Remove the cover
Flatten the tab washer
Undo the Sprocket nut, If very tight get someone to press the rear break or use a piece of wood through the wheel on the swinging arm.
Loosen the rear wheel
Slacken off the chain adjusters.
Slacken of the nuts on the bar from Swinging arm to Caliper bracket (makes adjusting the chain much easier)
Lift out the sprocket (a bit fiddly)
Put new sprocket on the chain and a little bit of fiddling and turning to st the sprocket back on the shaft.
Replace the tab washer
Check if the nut is 9mm or 12mm thick, if 9mm replace it with this part number 90891-10124
If 12mm check the threads on the nut are ok, any doubt replace it.
Apply a little some blue loctite and Torque it up 80Nm using the same technique to tighten as loosening it.
Bend the tab washer onto the nut
Replace gasket if necessary
Replace Cover
Torque the 5 cover bolts to 10Nm
Slide the linkage back on in the same position of slot and punch mark when you removed it.
Tighten the bolt to 12Nm
Adjust the chain at its tightest spot. Good indication is if the chain can touch the wheel end of rubber swinging arm guard when pushed up then it is ok, if not it is to tight.
Tighten the axle nut to 117Nm
Finally tighten the nuts on the bar from Swinging arm to Caliper bracket to 23Nm

Take it for a spin

I think I covered it all

[aj1soad]

Thanks for the guide. Had another look at my chain now but couldnt see if it was twisted or not. Ive uploaded a video on youtube of my chain. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=csVVIemwvuI

[keratos]

Unfazed, when I open the sprocket cover with engine cold will oil egress , or is it a no oil change necessary. Cheers

[unfazed]

No, the only thing that is likely to will fall out is a load of crud which is thrown off by the chain and is stuck inside the cover.

Cover is only to protect us from the rotating bits and the operating mechanism for the clutch.

Any oil in there is from the lubrication used for the chain unless there is an oil leak from the sprocket seal, the clutch pushrod seal or a broken crankcase 

[keratos]

No, the only thing that is likely to will fall out is a load of crud which is thrown off by the chain and is stuck inside the cover.

Cover is only to protect us from the rotating bits and the operating mechanism for the clutch.

Any oil in there is from the lubrication used for the chain unless there is an oil leak from the sprocket seal, the clutch pushrod seal or a broken crankcase 

cheers pal; I am doing a chain+sprocket kit fit in a few weeks. I'm also bought the upgraded nut+new lock washer for the front as per yamaha service bulletin. probably dont need it but it was cheap enough for peace of mind. thanks pal

[papercutout]

I've been through a similar thing - only I was in the middle of Germany when I discovered my problem! My rivet link on the old chain was absolutely shagged, it was stiff and had a crack running through it, so was about to fall apart. I limped the bike 300k's to my friends (praying that it didn't snap the whole time), and replaced the chain and sprockets.

It caused the chain to be massively tight whenever it went around the rear sprocket, and really loose the rest of the time (to compensate). Not a fun journey - arriving at gone 2am, having had a hell of a day! New chain seems to be bedding in well, I fitted it in Germany, and used the journey home to bed in, lubricate, and re-tension (about 4 times so far).

[His Dudeness]

Thanks for the guide. Had another look at my chain now but couldnt see if it was twisted or not. Ive uploaded a video on youtube of my chain. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=csVVIemwvuI

Is that side to side movement normal? Can't say that I've ever run the bike on the centre stand. Looks like a disaster waiting to happen to me.

[darrsi]

The thing that grabbed my attention is the fact that the chain wasn't slapping about like you see so often on other videos on here, and also on my own bike.
 
That to me indicates the chain is too tight, once the bike is back on the floor with the rider on board i would think there would be no slack at all at a guess.
That could possibly be a reason why it's noisy.

[aj1soad]

When the chain is at its tightest there is around 5 mm of play but when its at the slackened part there is around 15-20mm of play.

[keratos]

When the chain is at its tightest there is around 5 mm of play but when its at the slackened part there is around 15-20mm of play.

the yam service manual suggests 30-40m of slack is appropriate. your chain , on this basis, is dangerously over adjusted to the point where it is "too tight", may cause wear in the drive mechanisms, snap the chain, wrap around your wheel and stop the bike ! not something one would want to occur at speed I would imagine - perhaps the more sporty risky lads would find this exciting - I wouldnt.

[unfazed]

When the chain is at its tightest there is around 5 mm of play but when its at the slackened part there is around 15-20mm of play.

Don't even ride that bike until you slacken off that chain. It will break the chain and probably break the crankcase. Properly adjusted at its tightest section it should just press against the rubber swinging arm protector. 

[aj1soad]

ive slackened the chain now. the noise seems to have gone a alot quiter but the problem is still there where it gets tight. guess ill just have to order a new chain and sproket

[keratos]

ive slackened the chain now. the noise seems to have gone a alot quiter but the problem is still there where it gets tight. guess ill just have to order a new chain and sproket

yeah, like unfazed said, that noise was probably the crankshaft/case disintegrating 

[unfazed]

ive slackened the chain now. the noise seems to have gone a alot quiter but the problem is still there where it gets tight. guess ill just have to order a new chain and sproket

yeah, like unfazed said, that noise was probably the crankshaft/case disintegrating