hi thought that as well, on this bike as not clips on bars just a case of undoing the pinch bolts and sliding the forks down and out?
Read you have to be careful with the speedo drive on front wheel anything to look out for there?
Planning to get on the centre stand rock back ans get an axle stand under the frame or engine at the front, will this give me enough to get the wheel an forks off?
I will check and clean the calipers, think it needs front pads but not throwing money at it until i see if this can fixed tbh, seen a few say SBS pads are good oem spec replacement pad?
never worked on a fazer but mech engineer to trade and know ,my way about cars
cheers for the input
Alan
Biggest difference between cars and bike is the bolts are smaller and do not need the same level of torquing. Worth while buying a torque wrench and Halfords ones are reasonably priced and good. A 5nm to 50nm 3/8 drive will cover most bolts with the exception of swinging arm axle and wheel axles. All torque setting are in the Service Manauls in the download sections. The main manual covers 98-99 and two supplementary ones cover changes to the 00-01 and 02-03
Take care when removing the hoses from the engine an do not damage the anything some bits and no longer available new only second hand and difficult to find, especially the T on the engine pipe on the centre of the engine.
Use left hand drill bits starting at 3 mm and work up in 1 mm increments. If the drilling out does not work out and you have to drill them out completely, but there are stepped studs available in 7mm inner to 6mm outer. Drill and tap the hole for 7mm studs.Be careful not to drill more than 12mm deep as you can go through into the oil area of the head at 20mm
If you have the space leave the wheel on an release the pinch bolts to drop them otherwise remove the wheel. Calipers will have to removed and tied back first
When putting the whee back on make sure you align the the speedo rotor tip with the slots on the wheel. Rotor is easily broken if you do not align them.