If I get chance I'll give that a go tomorrow, I've ordered a pump as it's definitely on the way out just by the noise, so may wait for that now. I've put it all back together but don't know why as not planning on riding it until that fixed. Tried looking for arching in the dark and nothing

I may leave the caps for now then, I runs fine at revs but I will do the dark test.

Understood on the carb sync, read somewhere about bringing the revs up on the intake I know that for the future. Careful what you read I guess.

Appreciate the advice, got a couple of jobs for the weekend ahead.

The guy didn't ask the mileage, just listened to it so guess could give him the benefit of the doubt, but you may be right, I need to find a reputable local mechanic. Was trying to avoid taking the carbs, etc out to get to the tensioner but it seems that's not possible especially with my hands. Been giving it some revs since I've had it, it's not in daily use, but most weekends this time of year it will get some use. Perhaps see how it goes over the next few hundred miles and if it doesn't shift I'll get the tensioner off and check it.


Interesting you say about the indicators, didn't know that, will be done this weekend, got some black silicone in the garage. The chain alignment marks are not accurate then, I'll check that, shouldn't be out as chain and sprockets were recent when I bought it but best to check.
Had the carbtune on it today, TPS was also out. At idle it's around 180 mark, had to take it up to about 2.5k revs to get in the 230-250 range. [size=78%]
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I'd say the HT leads are originals, I replaced the spark plugs only a few weeks ago but original leads. Assume the NGK caps have the same connection, not sure the official name but no screw cap? Else I'm stuck there, threw the tops away  .

Sorry this has taken so long, work has been manic.

The fuel pump behaviour has changed, clicks loudly for longer , filler open or closed it does the same. I switch the ignition on and the pump runs (great, if loud), if I turn off and back on several times it repeats the process for the same length of time roughly every time.  My understanding of the operation is that it works on pressure and shouldn't lose it that quickly. When I first got the bike it would click a couple of times each time turned the ignition on (shorter when warm or had not long before primed) as I would expect, not sure why it's doing this now. It is quite loud, video:  https://youtu.be/vI0JQTH54Bk.  Bike runs fine but don't want to get stranded with a dead pump. Any ideas?

As far as engine is concerned, took it to a mechanic for a listen today, said it was likely the cam chain (https://youtu.be/l4SvuQYGRm4), Suggested loosening the two mounting bolts on the tensioner until clicks on the auto rachet, then wind the mounts back in. Not heard of this method before but would be easier than removing everything to get to it! Any thoughts on this?

No kinks, checked that when I balanced the carbs, all looks fine. Also, put some carb cleaner through the air box.


Wonder how much of this is due to old fuel, etc which may have been stagnant in the bike. I've gone through a full tank and a bit since i've had it and I've literally done more on it in three weeks than the last three years have seen. Keep using it and may shift it, or try some additive maybe. 


But then the more I look in to things the more potentials I find. The exhaust header plates were obviously overtightened for the middle two and have cracks in them, can't feel any air escaping in the short time it takes for them to get to hot to check, but that's something else which makes a ticking noise which is s


I'm conscious of keeping throwing money at it and there being an underlying issue.

Thanks, came out a little small that  . Forum newbie, what can I say.

Oil and filter, fuel filter and spark plugs all changed went with iridium and the Westway oil which seems good quality. Was told when purchased that the guy serviced the bike last year, the state of the oil (bearing in mind the few miles it's done in last 4 years) and rusty spark plugs with grit on the threads    made me think otherwise.  Air filter looked pretty new so left that in. New silencer ordered but doesn't fit straight on due to the aftermarket stainless downpipes, needs a straight coupler then will balance carbs.


It's had 100 miles of Cotswold A and B roads today to help that oil get round and see if could shift a notch on the cam tensioner, feels a lot better for the oil.


The noise hasn't disappeared but I believe is a lot clearer with the new oil. It doesn't seem to change with the revs or clutch in like most noise complaints appear to. When riding it's barely noticeable, likely due to other noises covering it. It's idle or low speed with clutch pulled to quieten the engine when it comes out. More of a rattle than a tapping now. Doesn't seem to be consistent with the engine timing, like something is loose but can't find anything external but will inspect further.


Assume the cam chain noise would disappear with revs so I'm tempted to rule that out. Any ideas?

Matter of interest, why do you chose the fully synthetic when semi is spec'd? Quite happy to pay the extra if it treats the engine better.


Regards riding style, I try not to be too much of a demon but sometimes it just wants to go.....it's not my main form of transport, when it comes out will be for an hour minimum so will be up to temperature and will involve a little spirited riding in dry conditions unless I get caught out.

Noted, it is running a bit rough, wonder how much noise would settle with that done. Was thinking of getting a carbtune, are they worth the extra to some of the cheaper ones around? I don't like to buy too cheap though, like my tools to last  .

I've only had it 300 miles, can't be sure i just missed it when I bought it is the problem there. I've read a few things here about resetting the cam tensioner, sometimes they get stuck but they can also be noisy when near the next notch, etc. Not sure if that's the sound it makes or if something else underlying?

I tried the screwdriver to ear and does sound much louder in the cam chain location but also assume this would be normal given it is in the middle of the action. The more I focus on it the more it's coming from the top of the block rather than things around it, so valves, cam chain, etc.

As the bike is new to me, I'm planning on changing out the filters, oil, check valve clearances, etc. While there was going to reset the tensioner, given the location easier while tank is off and can move the carbs out of the way. Honestly was considering a manual tensioner, I see some people swear by them.

Is flushing common, I've always been put off by horror stories of causing more damage than good by it. But then it's done 5.5k miles since 2006 (600 since 2017) and thinking there could be some build up with all the start/stop.

Hi, I recently got an FZS600, returning to bikes after a decade or so off them.

I have noticed a ticking noise, I know there is a certain amount of noise as part of the character but it's been too long to remember exactly what that sounds like, bike only showing 17k miles so has been sat around a while in its life (1999 model).

Appreciate thoughts on this, videos below, sounds worse on videos but guess that helps identify things. Thanks

Engine cold
https://youtu.be/YuHcuMfyFCY

Engine Hot after 45 mins riding
https://youtu.be/sJN18c5Qcl0

Hopefully I've posted this in the right place.