I'd have never thought of looking there for a fuse.  Mentally noted for the future.

yet no1 decided to post a photo on the location of this elusive bloody fuse - can i FOC find it

And still no picture 

 

That's an interesting read.  It makes me think that perhaps I should ditch the air wratchet (not impact driver) when rebuilding and stick to hand tools.

Looking for a useable front wheel, somewhere near Luton if possible. 

If it makes you feel any better, I tried to do my front discs yesterday.  11 bolts fine.  1 bolt rounded out. Smacked in a slightly bigger imperial allen head socket and had a go with that, and it sheared the bolt - below the level of the wheel hub 

Attacked it with a drill, got the centre out and tried some bolt extracters.  Got them to bite on the bolt, but it's stuck fast 

Drilled out out as far as I could without going into the threads, but still no joy.   I've been out and bought a 6.8mm drill bit and an M8 tap to try as a last resort.


The PR4s are a toughy to fit.  I've had 2 and neither wanted to seal the 'normal' way.  The trick I used (borrowed from a fitter) is to fire a burst of un-restricted compressed air down the bead rather than through the valve.   There's a proper tool to do it (Bead Cheater?), but that's expensive, so I just hooked up a piece of hose pipe to the compressor outlet and it worked just as well.

Before you start pushing the piston back with clamps or other mechanical devices, with the caliper off pump the brakes a bit.  Not too much that the piston pops out completely, but enough to push it out a bit more that it would when fitted.  This should give you access to better clean up the ridge of crud that is likely causing you problems.

Trying to push it in before cleaning this up is likey to ruin the seals,

If you have a multi meter...
Set it to read Amps.  Disconnect positive lead from battery. Connect multi meter - one lead to the battery and one to the positive lead you just disconnected. With the ignition switch off the meter should read zero.  A reading of 0.1 amps will drain a bike battery within two days.
If you get a reading above zero try disconnecting the voltage regulator/rectifier. If the amps go to zero you have found your problem. Try disconnecting other things if this doesn't work.

You should always disconnect the earth lead rather than the positive. 

Some of this maybe lack of experience on the bike.  I had similar issues with slower maneouvering when I started riding on a Fazer as the first bike ridden for over 17 years.  The throttle is sensitive, but you get better control with it the more you ride.

What condition is your chain, does it need adjusting?  I find a slack chain can affect slow riding where you are making small changes in throttle - this can also be helped by dragging the rear brake.

I also agree with increasing the idle speed. I ran with too low a level and found it much better a couple of hundred rpm higher.  You need to look at why the adjuster isn't working.

I'm happy to be shot down here, as I have almost zero knowledge of carbs on the bike, but I do know more about the ones that sit on top of a 6.6 litre V8.  I figure there might be some commonality between the way they work.

I'm not sure I'll explain it very well, but here goes:

On the bigger ones that I have worked with, there are 2 ways the fuel feeds into the intake - vacuum and pumped.  When the engine is running it creates a vaccum in the intake, which sucks fuel in from the carb.  The more open the throttle the bigger the vacuum and the more fuel is sucked through, which in turns makes the engine run faster.  When you sudddenly open the throttle there is a lag, where the amount of fuel being sucked in relates to the original position of the throttle, so you don't get a sudden burst of acceleration, but you are waiting for the vacuum to build and suck more fuel. This is where the pump action comes in, and it is linked to the throttle.  When you open the throttle it squirts a bit more fuel into the intake, to cope with the lag - a bit of a boost to help things along.  On the carbs I've worked on, there's a lot of tuning you can do to this pump circuit, such as speed, volume and jet sizes, which all affect the lag timing and effect of the pump.

I'm wondering it the FZS carbs have a similar function, and you're not getting the pump action.  This could explain why you only see it on rapid throttle opening, but not when you open it gradually, as the lag effect will be slower/less obvious with slower throttle opening.

If it is this that's the problem, the replacement carbs may prove to solve your issue - but that doesn't mean this was the problem.  The only way to know for sure would be to fix the old ones and see if it works.

Easy job. Take it off, send it to me, and in exchange I'll send you a standard shock which has plenty of room to adjust. 

I can't see it being carb-icing in May.  I've had it a few times and only ever when air temp is properly cold.

I doubt it's a fuel feed problem (so not pump or pipes) as the problem is immediate when you open the throttle. Supply problems would show symptoms a bit later, when the fuel bowls have emptied where the re-fil is too slow to keep up.

IMO it's electrical - check plugs, wires, TPS, maybe coils.    What revs/gear are you in when it happens?

No direct experience with an MC failure, but I'd say it was highly unlikely an MC will stick.  It's more likely to leak, leading to less power to the brake.  More likely is it being held by the pedal mechanism, or perhaps you've just been unlucky with the calipers sticking.

Are you sure you've not been accidently resting on the pedal when riding? 

How long has the new caliper been on, and how often have you given it a clean (general clean, when it's on the bike - not a service/clean).

TBH, I can't really see much of an issue there.  I slight flutter, but nothing serious.  - How much time do you spend idling vs riding?

If it was me, I'd have been more of a perfectionist and got closer on the carb balance, but I'd say you were within acceptable levels.