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Messages - Notch000
1
« on: 20 March 2018, 04:13:27 pm »
Have you a link to el cheapo speedo ?? I assume all the imputs, lights, dips, indicators, full light etc are straigh forward to wire in.
How does the tacho/speedo hook up to the original. stupid Q maybe i dont even know how the original works
2
« on: 18 October 2016, 05:01:27 pm »
The area under the top mount is the crankcase breather, no moving parts in there. There is a metal plate between it and the gears on the main and drive shafts with a pipe down to the sump.
thats interesting thanks
3
« on: 17 October 2016, 09:01:38 am »
thats for the offer but im in iireland so cant pick up those, i think id be right out of my dept rebuilding into a new casing too although seen a brand spanking new cas on ebay for around 100stg so would consider if all else fails
4
« on: 16 October 2016, 06:27:26 pm »
does anyone jnow whats inside the upper rear mount cavity ?? is it ok to go welding and dropping shit in there ??? the bike ran fine with the gap there alreadty
5
« on: 16 October 2016, 06:18:08 pm »
i crashed and bike went up and down on the side and knocked engine out of alignemnt in frame, i going to try get it patched up and ride on, the bikes a write off otherwise
6
« on: 16 October 2016, 03:51:06 pm »
7
« on: 15 August 2016, 04:55:58 pm »
Great thanks il give that a go so
8
« on: 12 August 2016, 01:48:36 pm »
I have the bike stripped except the engine to come out. What the best ways about it, wrestly out thorug hte frame or lay the bike over on its side ???? does engine come over left or right side easiest ???
Also what is the yoke directly under the sump the looks look like some sort of cylinder with an electrical connections ??? should i remove it or pull the wire back and take it out wiht the engine with ti in situ ?? cheers
9
« on: 02 June 2016, 12:22:41 pm »
10
« on: 26 November 2015, 04:09:10 pm »
I need to remove my exhaust manifold and have read the bolts are prone to seasing/snapping, ive doused them in Wd40 over the last few weeks and just wondering if I need to heat them first as well or try taking them off cold, I could leave engine running for a few minutes first or us a torch on them or just od cold ????
11
« on: 14 September 2015, 04:15:47 pm »
I just rebuilt my engine with new head and cylinder gasket and threebond for £70 all in (plus fluids, 20hrs work and a bit of swearing and tool throwing)
It's definitely easier to buy a complete secondhand lump (£250~) if you can find one with a history you trust.
I reckon in this instance a 'new' frame will be needed as it's tricky enough getting the lump in and out of a straight one!
To be honest, If that was my bike, I'd be breaking it. :-(
il see how it line up & go from there , big bcrow bar and a lump hammer. its my first bike so id probably rather burry it than break it, I saw another frame for sale so that's option 2 !! I have new sub frame mount and bolt set in the post first too <a href=" http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src=" http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh1/Notch000/DSC_0475.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSC_0475.jpg"/></a>
12
« on: 14 September 2015, 03:21:54 pm »
No thanks, live in Ireland and think it would be much easier to weld & repair broken mount, assuming top one is ok
13
« on: 14 September 2015, 01:59:19 pm »
thanks for that Bretty, it will be another few weeks before I get to look at mine properly as i have it in storage and im heading abroad for a couple of weeks,
do you have any pics of the back of the engine out of bike ??? I have a quick look last night and coudent make out the top rear engine mount
14
« on: 10 September 2015, 03:27:21 pm »
i never notived te upper back one, hopefully its not smashed too !! is it hard to access ?
15
« on: 09 September 2015, 04:25:33 pm »
ya fine, i cant run, kneel down & set of most airport metal detectors with it but ok considering
16
« on: 09 September 2015, 03:08:50 pm »
repost
17
« on: 09 September 2015, 03:06:45 pm »
 Not the best picture but this was about 2 week post opp, i has a compound fracture fibia & tibia, and had compartment symdrome after the initial opp that needed emergency treatment (nice scars, chicks love scars). So overal I had 2 operations, 10 days in hospital, 3 month non-weigh bering, around 5 months on crutchs & all in all probably took 12-18 month to make a full recover and it pretty good now, I might have better picture later. Accidnet was on friday 13th /sep / 2013 you coudnet make it up !! The surgeons said i was extremly lucky not to loose it and the first setting operation did the trick of an inital planned 1-3 follows, second surgery was just to close up open fasiamoity (compartment pressure relief) Be careful out there 
18
« on: 08 September 2015, 04:50:55 pm »
1 at the back and 2 at the front
the front ones are an utter pain to line up
yes show x-rays
I assume be back one is the one that's sheared here ???? its really hard to even see
19
« on: 08 September 2015, 04:49:09 pm »
Ah so the front mount bolt sheared off and the rear engine casing failed. Looks strange as there doesnt appear to be any damage on the outer engine case, only to the crashbung
Drop the engine, clean up the casing, refit it, and see if it all lines up with all the unbroken mounts before spending any dollars.
I have replace the stator cover where it landed, casing was toast and had some deep scrapes through it pointing up towards the seat which is the direction the engine has repositioned itself, there was also damage to topbox, fairing and bar end weight took a punch too Bike landed on my leg !!! any one want to see the X-Rays ??????
20
« on: 08 September 2015, 04:46:16 pm »
You say you broke the stator cover, which means the engine took the brunt after the crash bung bent. The engine mounts are not designed to take a bang and would be the weakest point.
It is possible that the frame is still intact, but before you go removing the engine, unbolt the exhaust pipe at the joint and the passenger foot peg and remove it, remove the down pipe mount to the frame by the right rider footrest, remove the front engine mounting bolt on the left side which is out of position, loosen all the rest of the engine mounting bolts and see if the engine moves back into place. If it does then you can decide to remove the engine and weld the mounts. Get some to help check the frame for is still straight by using the old method of to long straight poles providing the forks are straight.
That was my first though, will try this first, how many mounting points are there ???
21
« on: 08 September 2015, 03:44:40 pm »
I think the crash bungs did absoluetly nohting but bent over, the mounting between the crash bung and the subframe still looks straight and the engine took the brunt of the hit and thats why its knocked out of position
thoughts ???
22
« on: 08 September 2015, 01:49:14 pm »
moved ot FZS600 section 
23
« on: 08 September 2015, 01:48:43 pm »
Hi, I had a off a while ago, the bike went up and landed on left side broke stator, stator cover and cracked fairing etc, the bike is back up and running fine now but just noticed tha the engine mounts have taken a kicking. Thre was a crash bug in place that looks to have just folded over with the landing. but ive only noticed that half the rear engine mount has seared off and one side of the front subframe mount point is broke. so im not sure what my option are ??? How bad does it look, engine is sitting about 5-10degrees up on clutch side. Im not riding it on the road at the moment. Im thinking i could replace the front subframe, jackup engine and reseat & have a bit welded onto the rear ?? would i have to strip back engine exhaust etc to do this ???? Or worst case frame is bent and bike will need to be reframed and registeded   
24
« on: 08 September 2015, 09:55:42 am »
25
« on: 27 November 2013, 04:49:17 pm »
check the mirror carefully, i broke mine off in a crash but after looking at it it turned out only the screw inside where it pivots had sheared off, was an eaasy fix
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