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Messages - Kenny Dave
1
« on: 25 May 2023, 02:35:39 am »
I have solved the problem, and it was something that wasn't moving when I moved the bits between the cylinders: me. I am an idiot and don't know how vacuum gauges work.
I thought I did, and was sure, and it made sense. What I should have done is just ramp the revs up and turn it the other way to what I thought, and it got there. The gauge went down on 1&2, then went back up. I'm still not sure wtf is going on with them, but I guess I've learned something: when you're stuck, just have a fiddle and see.
What I was faced with was the level low on 1&2. Turning clockwise on the centre screw caused 1&2 to bog and the engine to die. So I didn't go further with that, wanted to turn them out more. What I needed to do was turn the tickover right up, and then turn the centre screw clockwise, which brings down 3&4. I was thinking 3&4 were running hard, 1&2 were not as they were dying. Still not a clue what is actually happening, but it's all sorted and balanced anyway.
Thank you for the suggestions, I do appreciate it. Even if I was too dumb for it to be any of the sensible suggestions given.
2
« on: 21 May 2023, 10:26:27 pm »
Update: switched carb bodies, no change. They have the parts from the carbs that worked ok. Diaphragm, valves. Anything other than the bare bones.
Also checked: sprayed around inlets and both sides of the carbs all cylinders with easy start to see if it races, it does not. Also tried with a water spray the other way. Tried on the spark plugs too. Float heights seem correct also.
It's 3 and 4 running hard even when the tickover is right down. I get 2.5k on the tickover with the adjuster not even touching, and the balance screw taking 1&2 right up. 3&4 still flying.
The butterflys are completely closed for 3&4 and it still does this. I thought maybe something to do with the choke, but I have changed them with changing the carbs.
I'm at an absolute loss as to what to go after.
3
« on: 18 May 2023, 10:54:21 am »
It has to be either the carb bodies, or something other than the carbs. Because I've flipped everything but for the offending cylinders, 2 and 3. I'm going to do a quick sense check on other stuff, then order a couple of carb bodies this afternoon.
Thanks for your efforts, I do appreciate this place a lot.
4
« on: 17 May 2023, 05:31:30 pm »
Thanks that's a good common sense checklist. This the repair kit you're talking of I think: https://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Yamaha_FZS600_Fazer.htmlI don't think it would do this with leaking fuel somewhere though. My issues are with the butterfly if it's staying open; I don't know why it would behave as it is if that isn't the case. The settings: pilot screws are 2.5 out (I hope), what else is there to adjust other than balance and idle? Needle jets are all at the standard position (I hope). I'm about to go and rip em out and see what's what. It's overwhelmingly likely I've done something stupid. Update: had them off, checked everything. Can't see anything wrong. I have a spare set with seized pilot screws, which were good a month ago. So I put the removables from 3 and 4 from that into this set, switched the pilot screw for 1 & 3, and tried again. Exactly the same, 3 and 4 with the vacuum too high on the gauge, even with the tickover screw right out. The butterflies are more open for 1 & 2 than 3 & 4. I'm starting to think it isn't the carbs, and I haven't screwed the spark plugs in properly or something. Or the carb rubbers I've got are spectacularly leaking. I didn't check with the carb cleaner or water spray, so I can try that tomorrow.
5
« on: 15 May 2023, 09:42:38 pm »
I can't balance my carbs. Picture below: Link if it's too big: https://i.imgur.com/IBs756j.jpg1-2 is out of balance with 3-4. Anti clockwise on the centre screw should help with that, but it doesn't. I've screwed it right out to where the screw is wobbling as it's lose in the seat. Turning it the other way Makes 1-2 bog and ultimately the engine stall. I can't get 3-4 to shift at all, they're up at the top of the gauge always. They respond normally to throttle, coming down before easing back up. Choke brings 3-4 down a bit, and 1-2 isn't changed much. They looked roughly equal on the eye test before I put them in, just open on the tickover. I can't get the tickover down below 2.5, I think I'm right out on the tickover adjuster too. Any suggestions before I pull the carbs out and have a look to see whats up? Things to look at when I do? Bit of crap stuck under one of the butterflys I see as a maybe, can't think of anything else. The background: carbs are a different set to what was in a week ago, cleaned. I balanced the old carbs only 3 weeks ago, no issues. I've got new spark plugs in. New carb inlet rubbers. Exhaust headers reseated. New coolant, new oil. Coolant rubbers and rad replaced. Thanks if you can help, I'm having a bit of a mare over here, it never seems to end. 
6
« on: 12 May 2023, 10:59:51 pm »
Wouldn't hurt to have a word with these people...
Thanks, never hurts to have the deets of good people. I couldn't get the screws out, so that set is a dead donor set now. I also found a spare set of carbs at the back of the garage, with bits missing. But no stuck screws. So I have more bits than I need, for now.
7
« on: 12 May 2023, 10:56:30 pm »
Replace the float valve O rings as this is the most likely cause of flooding. Would be good practice to replace the main jet O rings at the same time. No need to change the Main Jets or Float valves as the spurious ones are not as good as the original.
These are the sizes I used
Use Nitrile (Buna-N) SHA75 to 90 or Viton® (FKM/FPM) SHA75 to 80
Nitril wokat lower temps and Viton at higher temp but wont make much difference in Carbs. Nitrile is a bit cheaper
Sizes, I measured
Float needle valve: 7.5mm ID x 1.5mm cross section
Main Jet: 5.5mm ID x 1.5mm cross section
Bought all mine here https://www.polymax.co.uk/o-rings/o-ring-selector/
Thanks unfazed, that's great info for the future. I've completely replaced the carbs now, so I'll see how they go. They look in much better condition than the one I've taken off, and I know they've been on a shelf in the garage for a decade at least. So I'll see how they go.
8
« on: 08 May 2023, 09:04:36 pm »
Do you mean this? I need 3 I think. If, that is, I can get the things out. They seem to be very stuck indeed. I've snapped the tops off all 3 now. Any tips on that?
9
« on: 08 May 2023, 07:33:25 pm »
Does anybody have a box of carb bits? Picture:  The bit I need is the one in the middle. I've snapped one, one is stuck and snapped, and one is just stuck. The jets have a deeply stupid fully crossed head which snaps very easily. If I can't get the bits, maybe I need another full set of carbs. I'm confusing the life out of myself, I have 3 sets of carbs, and they're all different. Most of the needle jets look like the bottom one, which came off a set which I think is for my FZR400. Can't put it in, right? The needle bit at the end looks the same, but it's a different distance from the thread.
10
« on: 08 May 2023, 07:25:40 pm »
I would be inclined to think it is a coincidence.
Riding in all that salt something is bound to give issues on a 20ish year old bike and the two most like items are 1. the oil pipe and 2. the oil cooler
Thank you, that is reassuring. I still haven't got it running, new issues keep appearing. I put it back together, and it seemed ok. Ran the temperature up on the driveway, but it spluttered and stalled and wouldn't restart. Wouldn't start the next day even with easy start. Took a plug out and it's flooded. Spark ok, fuel ok but new filter coming, air filter cleaned and oiled, compression ok, plugs look ok but I'm replacing anyway. Carbs are off for a clean, but that's another thread with new problems. Which I'll make now.
11
« on: 18 April 2023, 06:15:28 pm »
M&P are AOK. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383617506115
I never realised they were that cheap, i was expecting much higher than that! 
I'd rather have a painted one, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. They'll always fail in time. I ride all conditions, I've put it in the spreadsheet to be replaced after 4 years now. Rather than dealing with the consequences of a failed one.
12
« on: 18 April 2023, 06:13:34 pm »
Thanks, I'll give it a test and see. This is the sort of stuff I need. No one has said anything about the routing being wrong, so I think I'm alright there too.
What's confusing me is that it was fine until the rad popped, so I'd expect it being sealed to mean cooling is fine. If leaking oil would give the funny running I've mentioned, then I'm golden with resealing the oil and it's not overheating. The oil filter has been sealed for the last 3k, but front end of the bike has been absolutely sandblasted over the winter, with a commute across the M62, so it may be just that if the symptoms could be caused by it.
The coolant has come out looking like new, no corrosion, so I don't think that's a problem.
13
« on: 18 April 2023, 02:56:36 am »
What brand oil filter do you have on it?
Check the oil pipe to the head and the oil cooler behind the oil filter
Oil filter isn't off, just loosened. Oil out tomorrow, but I assume it's a hiflo HF147, it usually is. Is the oil pipe you're talking about a really thin one attached to the front of the crank case? Thank you.
14
« on: 17 April 2023, 08:54:30 pm »
I've done something daft or damaged my bike after a cracked radiator. Still overheating I think, causing the oil filter to leak. If anyone fancies reading and giving me some pointers, any pointers at all, that would be much appreciated. I've replaced a cracked radiator, and all the 25 year old rubber pipes. I currently have the aftermarket temperature gauge saying that the temp is ok at the top, but the oil filter just chucked oil everywhere, and it's acting like it's overheating down there. Seems strained with the throttle open. So I've done something daft, I am not sure what. Or damaged something somehow. Would the oil leaking from the filter do this? These are connected correctly, right? https://imgur.com/a/faljkvrI haven't got coolant coming out anywhere. It's at the top when I open the fill whatsit under the tank, and the level is right where I left it in the overflow.It's doing the swirly thing looking at the coolant with the cover off, so I think that means it's circulating. The coolant has come out clean, the oil doesn't have any coolant in it. My number 24 on this is maybe 2cm too long, so it's a bit bent. Looks like it's open though so I didn't worry about it on install. Pics on the Imgur link. I've got it going to the top of 9 on the diagram, is this correct? https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/600-MOTO/2002/FAZER/FZS600/RADIATOR--HOSES/21_2093-2093/B7/0/24224My plan at the moment is get the oil sealed and see how it behaves. I don't know if a leaking oil filter would make it behave like it is, but it sounds unlikely. I'm at a loss if that doesn't sort it. Busto engine somehow? Anything else to check? Thanks if anyone can help. *Yes I will do some painting and cleaning in there and repainting while I've the chance. It's all off now, tomorrows job is clean and paint.
15
« on: 17 April 2023, 07:07:26 pm »
16
« on: 07 May 2022, 09:34:45 pm »
Yes mate, I'm 99% sure I've got one you xan have! Ill check my boxes later
Sent from my SM-A415F using Tapatalk
Ooh I didn't notice this message. Do you have it???
17
« on: 28 April 2022, 07:23:05 am »
Does anyone by any chance have a seat lock that they can sell me? I mean the bit wot the key goes into. Happy to purchase the cable and latch with it if required.
Or if there are units from other models that fit. Bike got nicked, this is the only thing I need.
18
« on: 16 April 2020, 12:23:56 am »
I've had a crazy thought, please talk me out of it. Would it make sense to "paint in" the nipples once they're on? Stop the rust getting in. Copper grease is no good as it gets washed out during bleeding.
19
« on: 16 April 2020, 12:22:50 am »
I have just been shooting up  Its a penetrating fluid and I find a syringe and blunt needle perfect.
I have the exact same needle 
20
« on: 15 April 2020, 09:16:31 pm »
21
« on: 15 April 2020, 04:39:13 pm »
The workmate dragging with the clamp attached  See if you can see it in the picture, you are very Eagle eyed!
22
« on: 14 April 2020, 04:51:52 pm »
Why have you got 4 boxes of bananas in your garage  Just for you Fazersharp: 
23
« on: 10 April 2020, 02:28:33 pm »
Thanks.
24
« on: 10 April 2020, 02:13:52 pm »
Why have you got 4 boxes of bananas in your garage
Do you think that's not enough bananas? Are you selling any?
25
« on: 09 April 2020, 09:20:07 pm »
OK so it's working ok. I had it off and got the dremel on everything, no paint or rust. In the hole, on the sides, on the frame, on the stand. I also noticed that it moves ok without the nuts on, so I've got them on at 20Nm now instead of 30, which I'm hoping is ok with the lock nuts and threadlock. It doesn't seem bent, I've added pictures to the gallery: https://imgur.com/a/epPehsaThank you all for your guidance, lots of good stuff on here.
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