aerosol lube that turns to a sticky paste. Yes the stuff sticks, yes it lubs but it's also a magnet for grit, and grit added to paste turns into grinding paste. They're dry lubs, these are silicon mixes, some are good others crap, for good ones, they're expensive, need applying every few hundred miles, they're better than sticky non fling aerosols, but need applying more often and for good one's bloody expensive. If expense is not an issue and you like a spotless bike, ride only high days, holidays in the dry, these are the way to go.
I use 80w90 gear oil on my chain these days, which i paint on at the rear sprocket every few weeks or so with a 2 inch paint brush while the chain is still warm after a ride, dependant on the weather (heavy rain). I then just wipe off as much excess as I can with a rag before putting the bike away.The chain has never been in better shape. Every link remains completely free and no dirt or grit sticks to it at all any more. Plus by using the paint brush very little oil is needed to cover the whole chain which also only takes about 2 minutes max to do.
I’ve heard chainsaw oil is used by some. Less fling.Personally I’ve gone round the houses with most methods and am now back to the scottoiler. Gets a bit messy with temperature changes but relatively easily cleaned and keeps the chain in very good condition.
Since changing my C&S last year I have adopted the oil route (gear oil ) at the minute I and doing it every 300 miles as per DID recommendations. But even though I don't swamp it and I wipe it after and gear oil is thicker it still flings off and some ends up on the side of the tyre. After the first 50 or so miles its ok but still annoying.I used to use putolone chain tech - see pictures, but even that still flung off.
Admittedly all my mileage is pleasure riding, but never had a problem using Wurth High Performance dry lube. The original chain got changed at a few hundred short of 24k miles, changed more as a precaution than necessity, as a couple of jaunts were on the cards. If I'm on a trip I'll take it with me giving the chain a quick squirt at the end of the day back at the campsite, or if out for the day, before the bike's pushed back into the garage.Thank goodness for the centrestand, as usually on my own.
If you really want to solve the problem and get well over 200k plus from your chain, when properly fitted and cared for, fit one of these: -https://advrider.com/f/threads/fully-enclosed-motorcycle-chain-drive.1241227/ I've fitted a couple over the years, not this version but similar.They're not new, fitted to many bikes from almost the start until the late 90's in the latter years these were on smaller commuter type bikes.
Actually why do we even need to lube, they are sealed via x or o rings.
and is probably the best part about that MZ
As you know my riding is dry only and I used the white spray sticky lube and the chain gained tight spots. Perhaps that's my problem - all dry / dusty riding sticking to the chain.Actually why do we even need to lube, they are sealed via x or o rings.
He said he doesn't lube his chains at all, just cleans them with WD40 after each ride to get the crap off and that's that. He reckons your chain will last much longer and stretch less with that basic maintenance? And the guy does know he stuffhttps://youtu.be/eDCtJUB6gfIGood video all round but skip to the 16 minute mark onward for the talk about chains