Gen1CDi question please

[SkidT]

Greetings All,


Ive posted previously about some issues with my Gen 1 Thou cutting out.
To recap, the bike cuts out after running it for a couple of miles, no spluttering / coughing etc, it literally just dies on the spot!
It will then turn over fine but apparently no spark because it won't fire up. Give it a minute or two and try again………….it then fires up no problem, runs fine and off you head down the road, only for it to repeat the procedure about half a mile further on.
I have managed to replicate this in the garage on the ramp, merely by running the bike at a fast idle. After a while, it then just dies as before.
Electrics not being my thing, I therefore sent the bike off to a respected factory trained mechanic who has spent some time looking at it.
He has been through the bike and has deduced that it can't be a loose / faulty wire in the ignition circuit, because it has done it in the workshop at a standstill and in that sterile environment would fail and stay failed, not correct itself a few minutes later, as it also does at the roadside.
He's been through the fault code readings and can't find anything showing a fault on these.
The only thing that he has noticed is that at the front right corner of the cdi box, to the right of where the block connector goes in, this is very hot to the touch, whereas the rest of the unit is coolish.
Would any of you guys have experienced this with your Gen 1's? Would some of you mind checking yours please, when the bike is hot and feeding back to me as to whether or not you have significant heat on your cdi boxes in any particular places?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Just costed up a new Cdi box from Fowlers…………….£459-80 PLUS VAT. 
Clearly thats not something that I can afford to splash out on, just on the off chance that it might be this causing the issue.
If, with some feedback, I can establish with more certainty if this is the problem, then I can decide whether to buy a new one, try and source a secondhand one, or just break the bike.


Thanks in advance for any help / advice.

[slappy]

Have you checked the ignition barel and ignition key?
I had something similiar happen when I had my gen1, the key was loose in barrel due to wear.
For a temporary fix I ever so slightly gave a twist to the key so that it fitted tighter in the barrel, problem was solved.
I ran it like this for six weeks before sourcing a secondhand  ignition and key.

[tex]

Hills motorcycles  has one for £63.00 of a 03,  there's another on ebay for £60.

[SkidT]

Thanks guys for your responses. I haven't actually got the bike back yet,collecting it on Monday. Ill try my second key when I get it back.
Thanks Tex, I'll speak to them when I get back home and see if they've still got it. At that money it's certainly worth trying. Is it literally a lug and play thing? No coding etc required?
Cheers

[schlumpf]

The black box fails very rarely, I would push it to the end of the list.

As mentioned before, the ignition barrel is the prime suspect. Same for its cables and plugs. Also remove the protection hosing of the cables, sometimes the cables are fried inside.
Disassemble the barrel and clean the contact plate. The WD40 solution is only temporary.

Second the ignition coils. They might get cracks in the plastic and the spark goes elsewhere. Inspect in the dark and look for discharge/arcs to the frame. Same for the spark caps and cables.

ECU at the end. First swap with a borrowed good one from a friend.
The sticker:
fzs1000
2001        5LV-82305-00
2002        5LV-82305-00
2003        5LV-82305-40 no headlight switch, controlled by ECU
2004        5LV-82305-40
2005        1C2-82305-00
All US models       
Fzs1000 & FZS1000s 2001- 2005     5LV-82305-30

Use the 2001, 2002 EU model, matches best to your bike. Newer ones might make trouble with the headlights.

Edit: Assumed your bike is 2001.

[PieEater]

The only thing that he has noticed is that at the front right corner of the cdi box, to the right of where the block connector goes in, this is very hot to the touch, whereas the rest of the unit is coolish.
Would any of you guys have experienced this with your Gen 1's? Would some of you mind checking yours please, when the bike is hot and feeding back to me as to whether or not you have significant heat on your cdi boxes in any particular places?

Just come back from a long 'spirited' ride around the Devon countryside and checked the CDI box for you. I can't say there was any temperature difference at any point and nowhere was noticeably hot to the touch, I'd say it was about as warm as I'd expect anything to be that was sandwiched midway between my arse and a hot tyre. Hope that helps.

[SkidT]

PieEater,


Many thanks for your response. Made me laugh……….. and grimace at the thought at the same time. 
Ive just posted up a response myself and will give it a few days to see if anything comes of it. If not, then I'll maybe consider whether I want to throw any more money at it, or go the EBay / break it route, god forbid! 


Thanks for taking the time to check for me though.

[shrekster]

I'd check the large block connector behind the left side of the fairing as well, this is a known trouble spot as they seem to collect water and corrode. From what you describe I'm not 100% convinced it's electrical, I'd also check the tank vent is working, when the bike cuts out open the tank cap and listen for the air rushing in and try to restart.
Jim.

[RMT1983]

Ive got a spare if you need one mate...................... pm me if any good

[SkidT]

Greetings All,

First of all, many thanks to one and all that offered advice / suggestions as to what may have been causing my cutting out issue. Also to RMT1983 for selling me his used Cdi box.

I just thought that I'd come back on and let people know that the bike is (thus far) now up and running again.

In the process of fault finding, the Cdi unit was replaced with a known to be good one from RMT and I also replaced the ignition pick up coil / sensor. Neither made a difference. It still started and ran up to temperature until then just cutting out.

Unfortunately I wasn't present when a bike electrician went through the bike fault finding, so I didn't get the feedback first hand. However, its seems that there was a broken circuit found that went to / from the aftermarket immobiliser. The sparkie basically by passed the immobiliser and hey presto, the bike now runs fine again.

Ive done maybe thirty miles or so on it, in the pouring rain I might add, and thus far, all seems well.

Fingers crossed that it stays that way.

Thanks again for the help / advice.

[RMT1983]

Glad you got it sorted mate!!!

Stick that CDI on ebay, was cheap so you should even make a few pints out of it! 

Hope your enjoying the rain!!! haha