Starting issue

[nickodemon]

To eliminate the sidestand switch simply unplug and bridge the connectors. 

[nickodemon]

Have you given the ignition switch a good dousing of electrical contact cleaner?    Have you pulled out all the fuses in case they have corroded inside the fuse holder? The main block connector underneath the left hand fairing infill is prone to corroding and is worth checking. If all this is checked and sorted i would go back to checking the immobiliser. Good Luck!

[ghostbiker]

Ignition switch and kill switch were first port of call. pulled fuses today and found the fan fuse was blown. rest are all in good condition.

havent touched the block under the infill. will get round to that tomorrow.
Also ran an ohms test on the ignition pick up and it cam back within spec. might retest tomorrow though as after reading the manual it says to test at 50 deg temp. and i tested at engine cold.
the problem with intermitent fault is i might test something and it test fine, but later its faulty. i realy hate electrics its the one thing i have never been able to get on top of

[keithfzs1000]

bridge the side stand switch and try that but i personally think its the same as i had.
Exact same probs n i mean exactly, took the meta off and now no probs, i do have the pin out diagram if you need it to disconnect the meta altogether.

[ghostbiker]

Ok Found the source of the problem. It is indeed the ignition switch. although i used contact cleaner on it a couple of days ago (and again today to be safe) it had no effect on it. but it you wiggle the key slightly or even push it slightly to 1 side the engine cuts out and it wont start (turns over but no start)
i also now found out that the key will in fact just pull free of the lock lol

Now a lock set on ebay is about £80-90 but my local guy happens to have a R1 ignition lock somewhere (he is going to try to find it later) anyone know if it fits? we tried to find a pattern one in his book and it has the R1 and both Fazer 600's but no listing for the 1000 /sigh

[keithfzs1000]

not sure it will as when you do the R1 front fork mod you have to have the fazer barrel into to R1 yoke, but that could be just because you already have those keys lol

[nickodemon]

Nice one   Glad you found the problem.

[ghostbiker]

finding it and fixing it are worlds apart lol
tried useing my spare key tonight, as its brand new and not been used but even that pulls stright out of the barrel so the barrel seems compleatly shagged. i had hopped it was just corrosion and a worn key but the barrel just feels like a bag of nails

those that have done the R1 fork mod, how easy is it to remove the barrel? was told today it might be breakaway bolts or something holding it in. do i need to strip off the front to get clear accses?
manual isnt realy very clear.

[ghostbiker]

Nightmare trying to source the new lockset or a new barrel.
Seems they dont do a pattern part.
OE is £193.28 +vat for the set or £144.14 +vat for the ignition on its own.
the only one on ebay is a 2002 model that has 7 wires (2+5) and the 2004 model has 5 wires (2 + 3) grrr why the hell they changed it i have no idea. might be todo with loseing the main beam switch?

time to start calling round breakers as the FZS 600 route seems like a dead end (has 2+4 wires) and the R1 i have been told has diff wire block set up to.

[Ghoti]

If you do find a suitable solution, can you let me know. 

Like you, my key can be removed with the ignition on and, only once or twice, the bike has had a fit whilst I was going along, wiggling the key sorted it.

I rang around but, although you can get a pattern ignition lock for most Yams for £45ish, I could not find one for the Fazer at all.  At the moment, the problem is not worth £150 .

I was told that the ignition switch changed when they hard wired the light on (2004 ish) so you will need to get the right one depending on if you have a switch to turn your lights off or not.

One set for the older bikes on Ebay at the moment http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-YAMAHA-FZS1000-FZS-1000-FAZER-5LV-2002-COMPLETE-LOCKSET-LOCK-SET-/200715502478?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2ebb93838e  but I'm not sure why he has not removed the ignition barrel!

[ghostbiker]

yup seen that one on ebay, its the 7 wire one. he didnt remove it from the yoke as it has snap off bolts fitted. he thinks its easyer to just swap the top yoke over rather than remove the bolts.
I rang around a bunch of breakers and finaly managed to get a lock set for £85 delivered. Little more than i wanted to pay but it needs to be done asap and they can have it here for friday morning (we shall see)
ment to be going to london and then kent for a long weekend starting friday so doubt i will have time to fit it.

pain in the ass they changed from 7 to 5 as there seems to be a fair few 2001-2002 ones around but very few 2004 ones at breakers. and some breakers will argue black is white that the 7 will fit the 5. i dont see how as the sockets are totaly diff so unless you cut them off..... looking at the haynes wire diag it can prob be bodged on with cutting the plugs off

[ghostbiker]

New ignition fitted, new filler cap on. pain in the ass i didnt get a seat lock to though.
But all problems now magicly working lol still find it freaky how it looked like so many other things first.
MOT done today and apart from rear pads (which i half expected) it flew through yay!