I would always do a double change on a second hand bike. For a bike in the condition you described, I would keep changing the oil every few hundred miles until it came out clean, and only then, put the good stuff in. It is not really the distance between changes that matters so much as the heat cycles. Get it up to temperature a few times so the fresh oil can melt and dissolve the built up gunk.

That was my idea of a 100 mile run - it's also strangely about the distance to the rally I hope to go to next weekend!


I've put semi-decent stuff in, as I couldn't get cheapo stuff last night and was far too impatient to wait any longer.

Hi all,


Next question - my speedo isn't working.  Can someone point me in the direction of the pickup please? 

Bugger! So near and yet so far!


All back together, let it idle up to temperature (well warm at least) and it sprouts a coolant leak!  Job for next week.


Looks like no test ride today as away for long weekend with wife and kids in a bit.


Are these things supposed to be 'interesting' to start from cold?  I need full choke and a bit of throttle, then it won't idle for half a minute or so.  Suspecting something out of adjustment.

just dropped the oil on my very much abused bike (separate thread), a lot of water condensation in it as expected.


Will running cheap mineral car oil for around 100 miles cause any issues?  I want to use it as a flush before changing again to a decent motorcycle spec oil?

Is the oiled air filter a paper OE type?  If so, the oiling might be a result of oil mist from the crankcase breather which vents into the airbox.

Looks OE type, definitely not K&N type that should be oiled.  It's a very uniform covering on the filter, which is at odds to what I've seen on a 'heavy breathing' engine in the past, although that was on a car.  The oil also smells different to that in the sump, I'm just going to change it and clean the airbox up and see what happens. 


Thanks for your advice....

Now insured, waiting impatiently to tax it tomorrow and see how it rides - fingers crossed the carbs aren't gummed up!
The sticking throttle was just the switchgear/guide clogged up in old grease, so easy fix.


Just looking at it's MOT's - something dodgy I thing with the shop I bought it from as it's not one 1 mile since it's MOT in May; me thinks it wasn't running then and was pushed in.  I drained a gallon and half of manky petrol out of the poor thing, so can't see how it would have run then.


This made me laugh, have you ever seen a bike cover so few miles between MOT tests?

Well, due to impatience, I've stuffed it up with chemical metal.  I'll see how it goes

How did you get the cam cover off?  Does the coolant from the pipes on top drain out of weep holes in the block like a spark plug drain hole?

Take AIS off - i'm in the middle of removing this completely and have run into a problem (separate thread).  HT heads off and hooked up out of the way, coolant pipes off - I unbolted the 'stat housing to get more room. 


6x Allen bolts hold the cam cover on, it just lifts off and slides out of the frame, access is a little tight and it needs a little jiggling around to get it out.


Didn't notice where coolant dribbles went (not in engine though) so can't help there.

She runs! :-)


Only on starting fluid at the minute as I haven't got the tank cleaned out fully, but there's life in the old girl!
Only needed a good service as was paid for by the last owner.

Valve clearances checked and although slightly tight can wait until winter when I'll have plenty of time to have the cams out.

I'm currently the middle of tapping the AIS holes on the exhaust to block them off.


Next question....


Having drained around a gallon and half of 'rusty petrol' out of the tank, I'm left with quite a lot of debris in the bottom - any suggestions on how to get the majority of this out?  I'm loath to use a sealer as the tank isn't holed or anything (and it'll gum up the level sensor).  Did wonder if washing it out in diesel would work - it's heavier than petrol, may hold the debris in suspension to drain it out?


After this my attention turns to the carbs - guessing these will have ingested rusty petrol!


I'm feeling fairly happy now that I know why it doesn't run, and it should be good once the servicing/cleaning is complete.

Details from the manual (but haven't personally checked my own sensor)
FULL = 4-10 ohms
EMPTY = 90- 100 ohms
Hope it helps !

That's great, thank you.  Looks like just the tank sensor faulty - phew!

It's getting that good service - valve clearances today/tomorrow - depending on how long it takes to get shims if needed.

New coil on order, new plugs ready to go in.

What was interesting, I couldn't get my plug socket in with the rocker cover on, the sealing gasket around the plug holes was swollen on both outside plugs - didn't bother trying the middle ones.  Looks like they haven't been done in donkeys years!

The invoice I pictured was from 'two wheels only' in London.  My hesitation in posting that earlier was that there is no traceability of the parts from the bike leaving them to me buying it.  Could someone have changed new bits for old?  (I doubt it but you never know).

I have a feeling it will be OK after giving it a major service.

I may need to source the coolant pipes that bolt to the top of the head and run through the rocker cover as the ones on mine are badly corroded and not sealing well to the rubber hoses.