Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: Creaky on 14 June 2020, 07:53:57 pm
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Hi
I run a 2001 Fazer FZS600.
Just been trying to adjust the clutch cable via the front sprocket cover access as the handlebar adjuster is at the end of its travel.
The locknut holding the adjuster screw is incredibly tight and I'm wary of damaging anything. I've added a dose of penetrating oil but am I correct in thinking that the screw adjuster should be held whilst undoing the locknut rather than just weighing in with a 12mm socket and bar? Haynes manual only mentions the offset/crank spanner. Experimentally trying the locknut without holding the adjuster screw and I can feel resistance from the internal spring.
Any tips on loosening the locknut without causing damage, please?
Thanks in advance.[size=0.85em][/size]
[size=0.85em][/size]
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i wouldnt worry about it too much (you dont have much choice)
if you use a 6 point socket rather than the nut chewing 12 pointers you should be fine
when you do adjust the screw i found using the driver through the socket keeps the nut in place so you dont move it then you can hand tighten the nut again without moving the screw as your driver is still there. then do a final tighten with your ratchet
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Try adjusting the clutch this way, but first ensure the Clutch lever pivot hole is not worn before adjusting the clutch and cable is not frayed causing the elongation of the cable
They can fray at the handle bar or inside the sprocket cover. Take off the sprocket cover and check it
Now,
Screw in the cable adjuster full at the lever end.Remove the rubber bung on the sprocket cover
Loosen the lock nut with a deep good quality ring spanner or as Disordlypunk says a 6 sided socket to loosen the locknut ( it will loosen with a crack and frighten the crap out of you)
Turn the lock nut anti clockwise a full turn
Hold you fingers lightly on the clutch lever
Turn the centre screw clockwise with a good fitting flat screwdriver
You will feel the lever moving out
Keep turning the screw until the lever is about 5 to 6mm from the lever housing.
Tighten the locknut.
Replace the rubber bung
Take the final adjustments at the cable adjuster
If you cannot get less than 10mm at the lever or the adjuster screw tightens replace the cable
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i forgot i did this video :-)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQ3LK1O4vHM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qQ3LK1O4vHM)
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To answer your question about holding the adjuster position while loosening the locknut… no, there’s no point.
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Thank you all for the fast responses and advice.
I added another dose of penetrating oil tonight and then tried the 6 sided socket and it then released!
I took off the locknut and added some light oil to the threads, replaced and carried out the adjustment using a screwdriver through the socket and then finally adjusted at the lever.
All seems fine now. Hoping to get out and try it properly on the road tomorrow.
Thanks once again. 👍
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The 6 sided socket is definitely the best way to go for this particular locking nut. It does tend to feel like it tightens over time. I'm not heavy handed at all but i rounded one off a bit years ago using a 12 point socket, but the 6 sided socket really makes a big difference. That area is greasy too from where i lube the bearings in the sprocket cover which doesn't help matters.
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Rather than start a new thread, I thought I would just jump on here as I'm pretty sure this is what I need to do as well... but I'll check:
I changed my clutch line yesterday... all went well, no issues.
I thought I had the adjustment correct as the lever "felt good"...
Went to ride my bike to work today, clutch in, first gear, clutch out...and out...and ALLLL the way out and the bike didn't move... no drive at all
I'm guessing (hoping) that I bolloxed up the sprocket end adjustment as I basically made the adjusting screw as tight as I could... so just need to let it out a bit??
Cheers!
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yep, im gonna guess you didnt release the adjuster when you fitted the new clutch cable and as its new its shorter so is affectively being pulled all the time, just release the adjuster and start the set up again by tightening the screw untill about right then any more adjustments can be done at the lever end..
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yep, im gonna guess you didnt release the adjuster when you fitted the new clutch cable and as its new its shorter so is affectively being pulled all the time, just release the adjuster and start the set up again by tightening the screw untill about right then any more adjustments can be done at the lever end..
Rodger that, cheers... thought it would be something stupid (i.e. me)
:eek :rollin
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Turn the adjuster screw all the way in until it stops, then turn it back a quarter of a turn. Then tighten the lock nut.
Ideally the most efficient way of doing this is with a deep set ring spanner which allows you to hold the adjuster screw where you want it, then just nip it up with the spanner, then tighten it using a socket.
As mentioned before a 6 sided socket works best on this particular nut. I pack that area with grease so a good fit really helps and prevents damaging the nut.
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Turn the adjuster screw all the way in until it stops, then turn it back a quarter of a turn. Then tighten the lock nut.
Ideally the most efficient way of doing this is with a deep set ring spanner which allows you to hold the adjuster screw where you want it, then just nip it up with the spanner, then tighten it using a socket.
As mentioned before a 6 sided socket works best on this particular nut. I pack that area with grease so a good fit really helps and prevents damaging the nut.
All the way until it stops, or until you feel pressure?
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Turn the adjuster screw all the way in until it stops, then turn it back a quarter of a turn. Then tighten the lock nut.
Ideally the most efficient way of doing this is with a deep set ring spanner which allows you to hold the adjuster screw where you want it, then just nip it up with the spanner, then tighten it using a socket.
As mentioned before a 6 sided socket works best on this particular nut. I pack that area with grease so a good fit really helps and prevents damaging the nut.
All the way until it stops, or until you feel pressure?
It will feel like it can't be screwed in anymore, like it's hitting something.
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Another thing to do while the sprocket cover is off is to lube up the bearings that sit behind the locking nut.
It makes a big difference, as it's not somewhere that you'd even consider as it's hidden.
I use spray white grease, just spray the hell out of it and pump the metal part that the cable attaches to and it will suck the grease in.
It's more obvious than it sounds when you see it.