This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - kebab19
Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 ... 37
101
« on: 03 September 2019, 07:50:16 pm »
Please tell me I've read this wrong - you're replacing the OEM fork springs with another set of OEM fork springs?
102
« on: 03 September 2019, 07:48:26 pm »
Loved my TRX850: with fork cartridge emulators and an Ohlins YZF750 rear shock fitted it was one of the best handling bikes I've been on. Comfort fades after 150 miles, tho that's down to me being a crock...
103
« on: 30 August 2019, 10:14:42 pm »
Good answer, thanks, I don’t want to reduce comfort. I have a fireblade for that
Ah yes, it's about 8 years since I've been on one of those torture racks  Then again, with the shorter R6 forks you can add 30mm riser inserts under the Fazer's handlebars and so restore the riding position back to standard...
104
« on: 30 August 2019, 10:08:32 pm »
Very impressive, would like one of those myself. You should post your prototype on the US FZ1OA website - they'll probly go into a frenzy over the prospect of adding modern techno-gadgetry on the old bus 
105
« on: 30 August 2019, 06:04:21 pm »
Both R1 and R6 forks are indeed shorter than standard forks: the first picture of my R6 5SL fork thread shows the three forks lined up together. But reduced suspension travel stops the R1 / R6 setup smashing the radiator and other front-end parts. The alternative front-ends will however sit an inch lower, which improves the handling but reduces comfort.
Standard FZS1000 forks have 140mm of suspension travel. The alternative 2003-2004 R6 5SL forks only have 120mm of suspension travel, which offsets the forks being shorter.
106
« on: 30 August 2019, 05:57:44 pm »
There's a design fault inside the forks which causes rubbing metal surfaces to wear. The particles end up in the fork oil and get distributed all around the fork innards, causing even more wear. Anyone who has changed the fork oil a couple of times or more will confirm: how much it stinks and how quickly it turns black. That's a long-winded way of saying yes, change the fork oil asap 5W is about right, 10W viscosity is too thick for the crude damping action. I'm currently using 7.5W but my fork internals aren't standard
107
« on: 28 August 2019, 07:50:30 pm »
Just a final say on my own FZS1000 front-end experience, which unfortunately has been considerable. First FZS1000 owned 2009-2013- Ravenrider spring mod & 5w oil. Too Harsh
- Hyperpro springs and 2.5w oil. A bit of an improvement over standard, but not enough for me.
- 4VX R1 fork conversion. Much better, but standard springs were soft. Ordered linear springs.
- 5JJ R1 forks with Ohlins internals & the linear springs. Popped up whilst I was flush so went for 'em. Perfect, but I wasn't working for a while & ran out of money around 2012, so had to sell them again.
- 5SL R6 forks. Very good compared to standard Fazer forks, but standard Japanese valving is never as good as aftermarket stuff.
Current FZS1000 2017-present.- Linear fork springs & 2.5w oil. Damping felt harsh.
- Stripdown of forks, new bushes & seals then linear springs back in with 5w oil. Still felt harsh no matter what way I turned the dampers. Realised that the damping valves were the problem.
- Racetech Compression & Rebound valves, along with 5w, then 7.5w oil. Rebound is perfect, still tinkering a bit with compression settings hence fork oil changes.
I'm probably a bit fussy over forks... but there is no getting away from the fact that on bumpy roads the standard valving is poor. Different weight fork oils can mask this but cannot cure it.
108
« on: 28 August 2019, 05:31:57 pm »
The suspension, still not happy with at all. Its just so harsh and cant handle anything but perfect tarmac. Ive been toying with settings the full trip, and slacking off the front settings everytime just ends up with unacceptable diving under braking before I reach a plush ride. The rear im not sure is doing much of anything, cant feel it going through the stroke at all, very much a on/off feeling. R6 shock is on the cards, but the front honestly feels a _lot_ worse than the rear.
I think I need to look at new fork internals, but not sure where to start really. REALLY want to know its going to improve it before having to throw serious money at it.
https://puu.sh/Ea8nE.jpg
Sounds like nothing less than a revalve or replacement of the compression & rebound valves, along with springs appropriate for your weight will do the job for you. If sticking with the standard forks, RaceTech are cheapest but only if you can DIY (fork springs & valves about £400). After that, Maxton & K-Tech charge between £600-725 to alter existing valves or replace them respectively. The R1 fork conversion was / is quite popular but if unlucky the forks may need rebuilt and you may need to re-spring them to cope with the heavier Fazer. Although biased, I found my R6 5SL fork conversion to be the most cost effective fork option, although I'm not sure how standard the internals of my R6 forks were: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/fazer1000/r6-forks-non-usd-for-gen1-t4229.htmlIf you sourced the right set, could be as cheap as £200 to convert, but the quality of second-hand forks are always a bit of a gamble...
109
« on: 13 August 2019, 05:13:58 pm »
Kebab, is this what you used? https://www.solomotoparts.com/Race-Tech-Gold-Valve-Fork-Kit-for-FZ-1-01-05/ and how hard are they to fit for a reasonably competent DIYer?
Yes, that's one of the kits, but not sure which one. With the Racetech kits you can buy the Compression valves on their own, Rebound valves on their own or both sets of valves together in one kit. The single kit's serial number is is FMGV S2047, but I bought the set with both compression and rebound valves - serial number FMGV S2047C. If you type S2047 or S2047C into ebay, you can see the kits for sale, such as item #192879930393. The compression valve is actually pretty easy to replace - you don't need to separate the upper & lower stanchions, just pull the 8mm allen bolts out under neath the bottom of the lowers and lift the inner cartridges come out. After that, add some heat to get the originals off. You could also re-fit the original compression valves back on if for some bizarre reason you wanted to. The rebound valves are more difficult, requiring drilling out / widening the inner cartridge rods and shortening the little oil damping rods that sit just under the fork caps. Not too difficult IMO but something to bear in mind. You could just fit the easier compression valves, but I suspect that would further highlight the poor standard rebound effects even more...
110
« on: 12 August 2019, 07:39:19 pm »
Another option is to replace both compression and rebound adjusters using Racetech's valves. Even despite the US import tax, they both cost me around £300, plus about £100 for a set of K-tech linear springs. But that depends on your competence twirling spanners to save money here.The basics (bushings, seals etc) also need to be right too or it's a waste of effort. So more like £500 to sort the front properly.
111
« on: 11 August 2019, 06:29:13 am »
Although I've used them myself, I've heard of some Pyramid bushings having incorrect dimensions. Personally, I'd give the forks to K-Tech to finish them off before it sickens your happiness with the bike.
112
« on: 29 July 2019, 09:54:21 pm »
From what you're describing, the fork lowers may have worn to an unacceptable level - there is apparently an inherent fault with the Gen 1 forks, with the lower fork cartridge / fork lower wearing against the fork springs and the fork oil then turning to abrasive sludge. There's a great thread about it here on the FZ1OA site (hopefully you can view it without having to create an account): http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=126071&highlight=gen+fork+wearThis problem is exacerbated by not changing the fork oil regularly and the wear becomes so bad that you can apparently feel knocking sensations coming through the forks, almost like the head bearings have gone? If this is the problem you may well have to replace the front forks, whether they be another pair of standard units (risk of replacement forks having the same problem), R6 5SL right-way-up forks as I fitted to mine back around 2011 or early-ish R1 forks. The latter two options usually drop the front-end by over an inch, not necessarily a problem but something else to consider.
113
« on: 28 July 2019, 04:36:20 pm »
General rule: the longer you're keeping the bike the more you should consider investing in the suspension.
Plenty of rear shock options all over this website.
Forks - if you stick with the standard compression / rebound damping units and standard springs, the front will never feel great no matter what way you twiddle 'em. There's the cheapo RavenRider fork mod but it sounds like your issues are coming from the damping as opposed to the fork springs.
Hyperpro springs and 2.5w oil (with reduced air gap of 130ml) is the best cheap option for the standard forks: probably £150 about but with 30k up on the clocks you might also need to replace the bushes & seals - more like £225.
If you spend more money you can go Racetech dampers & linear fork springs for around £400 (if you fit them yourself) or £600+ for or Maxton to re-do your forks. Disturbingly, Maxton appear to mod the standard damping units as opposed to replacing them with something superior. K-tech use replacement damping units...
I rebuilt mine Racetech comp / rebound valves, bushes, linear springs & new fork seals but as you have to strip, change & modify the fork inners, it's not for the casual tinkerer. The modded forks are great now but it's a fair bit of effort.
After that your best option is a replacement front-end, but that ain't cheap either...
114
« on: 01 July 2019, 05:43:34 pm »
Strange. Are you sure it's not coming out of the bottom of the fork lower, where the underside oil drain bolt attaches the inner damper rod?
115
« on: 09 June 2019, 02:36:58 pm »
I'm afraid it's not really possible, the carbs have to come out to hook the cables round the central pivot. On the plus side, Pat's FZ1 page makes it a fairly painless affair http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/carbremoval.html
116
« on: 04 June 2019, 09:20:57 pm »
130mm dogbones will work fine, it was one of the length options of my four length Projection Components dogbones. I think the 127s gave a very slight tail-end lift, whereas 130mm should be more like the standard height.
118
« on: 30 May 2019, 05:26:17 pm »
Melvin of Custom Motorcycle seats transformed my standard seat, Bladerunner Styling with black with silver piping. Totally transformed mine from 1-2 hours of endurance to an all-dayer setup (Gelastic Pad Insertions which, to be fair do seem to work well). Not cheap, tho... CUSTOM MOTORCYCLE SEATS. 16 HARBOROUGH ROAD, HOLBROOKS, COVENTRY. CV6 4FP. TEL : 02476 665203 MOBILE : 07854166331http://www.cmseats.com/index.html
119
« on: 08 May 2019, 07:44:16 pm »
I did originally fit the standard spring to my own and had a lot of fun on the maiden journey, until I upped the speeds a little  and almost met the grim reaper a bit too early for my liking.
120
« on: 07 May 2019, 07:30:54 pm »
Hello,I don't have a 600 anymore and sold all my spacers / dogbones years ago. The dimensions of all the parts needed are listed on this thread, you'll have to track down someone with a lathe to fabricate the parts. Don't try & ride with the standard R6 spring if you're more than 7 stone weight or you'll end up in a hedge (at best). Spring length - the R6 shock has an unusual 6.5 inch spring. Aftermarket shock springs are (pretty much) only available in 1 inch increments - a spring 5 inches, 6 inches, 7 inches, 8 inches etc. If you install a 7 inch spring there will be a lot of preload on the spring, even on the minimum preload step. If you install a 6 inch spring there will be very little preload on the spring, even on the maximum preload step. Hence the need for a half inch spacer to take up the difference. If you can find an aftermarket manufacturer who can make you a 6.5 inch spring then this is not an issue...but good luck with that. Spring rate - when I was selling these shocks, I found the following rates most suitable:12 stone rider - 625lb per inch spring for solo use, 650lb if a lot of pillion work / hard luggage or fast road riding track days14 stone rider - 650lb per inch for solo use, 675lb with pillion / luggage / fast riding16 stone rider - 675lb per inch for solo use, 700lb with pillion / luggage / fast riding etc etc Dogbones - don't try & raise the back-end too much - there's the strong possibility of dogbone-to-swingarm impact you go shorter than about 124mms between the dogbone hole centres. I stuck with 127mm bones. Happy modding
121
« on: 07 May 2019, 07:14:53 pm »
Not a lot online, perhaps http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/fastfranksvalvecheckadjustmenttips.shtml maybe of help? I used the Clymer manual which was much more detailed than the Service Manual. You'll need to order the ignition rotor gasket as it invariably seems to break when you try & remove it. If you're referring to the gasket with the 'half-moons' that goes between the top cover and top of the cylinder head, then no, if careful you should be able to take it off and reuse it, probably two or three times - seems fairly robust. The top metal coolant pipes are held in place with allen bolts (obscured by rust & corrosion) and when you pull them up & out all the rust / dust / clag flies everywhere. If you can get a mini-vacuum in around them try to lift the excess off before using some wet-wipes. Those metal coolant pipes will have a gasket O-rings in underneath them and you should replace them: nothing worse than reassembling the top end meticulously, just to see fluids making a bid for freedom...
122
« on: 02 May 2019, 07:53:38 pm »
With the side rails attached and side panniers fitted, other road users won't really be able to see the rear indicators from the sides if they stay in their original mounting position, unless behind the bike. Givi have separate mounts / brackets that allow you to relocate the indicators under the central rack: I'm not sure if they come in the rack kit or not(?). Moving the indicators allows the the cross bar to go through the vacant indicator holes. Should you want the indicators to stay in their standard position, the cross bar can alternatively be fitted up behind the number plate.
123
« on: 26 April 2019, 06:21:52 pm »
754s might help, but as they have slightly more sweep they may end up aggravating your forearms instead. Ask yourself whether you are after more height the risers or some handlebar 'pullback'?From memory, the R1 front-end involves more weight over the front-end than standard, mostly because the forks are shorter. I think that would automatically place more pressure on your shoulder. You can buy riser inserts between 20 and 30mm, although the 30mm version might be too long for the standard brakelines. Risers that point back towards the rider are easier to reach, so less weight on your shouldesr. The trade-off is that your body weight would be further back from the front-end. I used Virago 250(!) risers on mine. Take a look on cycle-ergo.com and select the 2001-05 FZ1 (it's an American site). Then enter your height & leg length. After that, experiment with the 'Vehicle Customisation' options, specifically handlebar rise and pullback. You're aiming to reduce the forward lean angle
124
« on: 26 April 2019, 06:06:10 pm »
Providing you have something to balance it on, you could could rest the tip of a soldering iron to the bolt and leave it touching for for 5 - 10 minutes? It would be a more precise way to apply heat to a specific area without risking damage to the surrounding parts.
125
« on: 23 April 2019, 07:40:39 pm »
Sorry, all the Renthals I've had have the numbers etched into them. Do yours have a brace - they could be non-street bars
Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 ... 37
|
Show Posts