Hi,
My post has gone also.
 
Is it going to reapear or do I retype it again......

Hi,

About to upgrade my rear shock on my FZS600 foxeye from std to the FZS1000 shock with the 600 spring as described on the forum.
 
My question is:
Do I need to buy a different C spanner for the spring preload adjusting ring.
 
Or can I use the C spanner in the 600 toolkit to do the same job on the 1000 shock.

regards,

Bulbs are fine they work on dipped and full beam when selected.
 
Just the pass switch doesn't switch from dipped to full.
When you operate the button you don't hear any click like a microswitch.
I was thinking I will need to disconnect the wiring connector and see if it bells out or NOT as the case will probably be.
But a heavy squirt of GT85 may help.
 
Can you get at the contacts. I presume you have to split the switchgear.
But is there access to the switch internals.

Hi,
Going home last night slowed to allow a car out in front and pressed the pass switch on the left handle switchgear.
 
No full beam. I had to switch to full beam then off to dipped.
 
Can this switch be cleaned up or is it a case of having to buy a replacement left hand switchgear.

Cheers, Will look tonight when I get home..

Hi,


I managed to get the bike started with the two bypass loops of wire.
I put some insulation tape on the two damaged wires. And then put some more insulation tape around the loom.


I started checking out the indicators and lights, all ok. The rear brake operates the brake lights, but the front brake lever doesn't switch on the brake lights.


I found out that the alarm has what is called a decode wire, the brown wire that supplies the feed to the brake light switch is cut and dioded. It says also that a wire no:33 is attached to the switch side of the diode.


I must need to find and fit a 3rd loop, to get the brake light working from the brake lever.

Hi,


Thank you for your posts regarding the pin out diagram.


I have dismantled the rear of the bike to get to the alarm.


and would you believe what I found is this.


see the attached picture. It shows at least two wires, not sure which ones the damaged ones are when you bell to the wiring harness plug pins, will do that tomorrow.


But it looks like the loom has been chaffing for 9 years on the end of the rear left frame.


Gone through the insulation tape and through the cable insulation.


The bad weather before Christmas must have shorted the wires out.


Maybe this has damaged the alarm.


I am going to find out where the wires go to and repair them then see if this allows the alarm to function.


The alarm is a Meta 357T V2 it's on the label at the back of the alarm module.


Looking at the pin out diagram. What does it mean when it says Loop NR x and NR x.


and then says Do not loop NR x and NR x in AC ignition systems.


What is an AC system.


I am not sure if the alarm will function when damaged wires insulated so I will probably need to buypass the alarm wiring.


In an additional note what is the torque setting for the grab rail bolts and screw holding the rear tail covers on, please. I don;t want to over tighten the bolts and trash the tail pieces.

I have just bought the R361 bar muffs from tucano urbano.


Any tips of things I should or shouldn't do when installing, please.


cheers,

Thanks for the info.


The other spring is in the following picture item:13


http://www.yamahamotorcyclespares.co.uk/spares/epc2.asp?ModelID=9657&pageID=18&m=YAMAHA+FZS600SP+FAZER+SHIFT+CAM%2E+FORK&uid=0


Is this is the "MAIN SELECTOR SPRING".


I will get out the Haynes manual and find the part and see what it says regarding replacing.


The bike changes gear fine no difficulty at all, the clutch cable is definitely stretched I have taken up slack at both ends.
I have a replacement waiting to be fitted.
It's just after changing gear I have to consciously check the gear selector in case it needs another toe up. If there is resistance then I know next time I change gear it will change into the next gear.

Hi,
Just been on the www.cmsnl.com website. They don't do the parts for the FZS600 only the FZS1000.
How do you know if the part is compatible for the FZS600.

Hi,


Sorry for the lateness of this extra info.
My multimeter was in error. The 9v PP3 battery in the multimeter needed replacing.
The multimeter WAS over reading.
After replacing with a new PP3 battery.
The bike battery read 12.9v.


I used GT85 and saturated the starter switch and cleaned up the switch and checked some of the connectors under the tank all look ok, sprayed them with ACF-50.


After a good charge on the optimate all seams fine touch wood.


In my opinion running the bike on my 8 mile each way commute with dipped beam and heated grips every day over a week.
Drained the battery enough to cause the symptoms.
Currently I have not needed to used the heated grips but still use the dipped beam and the battery seams to be ok.
with no difficulty starting.


We shall see over the summer if I have any re-occurrance.
Cheers for all your help.

Hi,


Thanks for the feedback. It's all much appreciated.
I charged the battery on the optimate last night and there were no problems today at all in either direction too and from work.


The bike is on charge again tonight but I will not put it on charge Friday night and do the voltage check Saturday morning.
I will clean the starter button and clean the connectors and grease the battery terminals as advised and then see were we are.
I will get back with the results.
Thanks again for your comments.

cheers,