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Messages - 110%
26
« on: 19 May 2012, 12:09:23 pm »
No wonder it went pop:
The garage found a 2 inch long piece of iron inside the tyre when they fixed it up! Back on the road now and I think I'm going to buy one the kits mentioned below for the future - most probably the stop and go tyre plugger.
Thanks for the replys everyone.
27
« on: 18 May 2012, 01:39:14 pm »
Just had a quote of £37 +VAT to repair the tyre based on £60/hour labour costs +VAT (I'm in London) plus about £7 for the umbrella patch. This is what makes punctures so annoying because they aren't something I can repair cheaply myself.
28
« on: 17 May 2012, 09:49:44 pm »
That's probably why my fuel gauge is absolutely rubbish. I bought a 1998 model which which already had a 2002 blue tank, cowling and fairings installed, and I can do 100 miles before the fuel gauge even drops from full!
29
« on: 14 May 2012, 04:13:34 pm »
In London it's difficult not to ride in the hatches when it comes to filtering, but the puncture this morning was on Upper Richmond Road - a single carriage main road whilst I was lane splitting and all I heard was a loud 'pop' from the rear.
The worst places for random debris are at the junctions which have islands in the middle of the road. There are a few places where I will filter back into the traffic 2 or 3 cars before the lights to avoid riding over a load of stones/bits that have fallen off cars/rubbish that gathers right next to the traffic island, where as a lot of other riders I see will plough through them regardless to get to the front of the queue.
I'll put it down to bad luck (again).
30
« on: 14 May 2012, 03:12:45 pm »
The RAC man has been and gone. He used the following type of repair kit as a temporary repair: http://www.infinitymotorcycles.com/product/tip-top-rep--air-tubeless-puncture-repair-kit/79 He told me not to exceed 40mph and to take it to see if the garage can repair it. Having said that he doesn't think the tyre will even be fixable at the garage and that I will be buying my third brand new rear tyre for the Fazer costing me over £100 again. 
31
« on: 14 May 2012, 01:45:02 pm »
Frank - Did you write to the Guinness book of records to check that one?!
Slaninar - how often have you used this type of repair, and how effective/safe would you say it is?
I've phoned the RAC who will repair it at the side of the road where I'm working (I've got free RAC roadside recovery through my MCE insurance policy) so I should be riding it home tonight. I'll ask the RAC man his opinion on how robust the repairs are when he gets here.
32
« on: 14 May 2012, 12:23:23 pm »
Thanks Keno. I've just spotted this online:
It seems quite easy to use, and I'm guessing once inflated that the air pressure will ensure the plug stays firmly in place, but I've heard a few people who question how safe they are. Do the garages repair tyres in the same way or do they remove the tyre and patch the inside as well??
33
« on: 14 May 2012, 09:14:22 am »
I've just suffered my 3rd puncture in 6 months and it's beginning to piss me off now! It's my second new rear tyre on the Fazer and the tyre's only done 400 miles. The previous tyre had only done 2000 miles and had been repaired once already so I got it changed to be on the safe side.
My question is: Is there a solution to a recurring expensive problem like this (other than commuting to work using the underground!!) such as using inner tubes within the tyres or are there any tyres which are more robust to punctures than others?
Also - how safe are repaired tyres (provided that the puncture is central on the tread) and will it affect the maximum speed on the tyre?
34
« on: 26 April 2012, 07:05:50 pm »
Removal:
I've done it twice now and there's no need to remove the radiator. The hardest bolts for me to remove were the ones which sit right next to the frame because my extender wasn't thin enough to get past properly so I had to use the closed end of a combination spanner to turn the nuts about 1/32nd of a turn each time (very tedious!)
If you leave the outer two (the easiest) nuts till last it also means that you wont put any lateral pressure on any of the threads (I was scared of bending them) and it makes the final part of the removal easy when you have to catch the downpipes as they fall.
Refitting:
The hardest part of putting them back on is trying to get the gaskets to defy gravity, but you can use some grease to hold them into the cylinder head port as you re-attach the downpipes. You might need to lie on the floor and support them with your knees if you haven't got a second pair of hands. Hand tighten the outer two bolts first to keep the downpipes held on, then tighten all the bolts slowly and evenly in a similar way as when you put a wheel back on a car.
Good luck!
35
« on: 11 April 2012, 07:19:02 pm »
Sounds like the fuel tap to me. I made the same mistake and found a list of posts which I read on here and it would seem to be a schoolboy error most people have made at least once in the past!!  If it's not that, it will be a kinked hose. The pump is basically starved of fuel and the clicking is when it's pumping air though. This should lead you to check everything 'upstream' from the pump to see why it's being starved of fuel.
36
« on: 11 April 2012, 07:12:31 pm »
I had a similar problem a while back, water was getting into the spark plug caps. The spark plugs themselves were quite new, I inspected them and they were fine so I bought 4 new NGK plug caps for about £5 each.
They cured the problem and I was amazed at what a difference it made to the performance even in the dry!
Make sure you keep the rubber rain shield near the spark plugs flapping down to the front of the engine, and not into the centre where water will collect.
37
« on: 10 April 2012, 03:56:47 pm »
I'm normally getting 55mpg from mine. Theoretically the optimum MPG is achieved when the engine is running at it's peak torque in top gear. Apparently for an FZS600 peak torque is at 9,500rpm. I tested this out today to see what speed I would have to be travelling to achieve 9,500rpm in top gear. Put it this way - I'm glad I wasn't caught by the police whilst testing it out!!
38
« on: 10 April 2012, 03:52:15 pm »
The job is a hell of a lot easier if you remove the bracket holding the coils, fuel pump & fuel filter.
If you take the coils off the bracket and reconnect them electrically just placed to one side you can keep the fuel system all still connected by tilting the assembly over to the other side. Then the screws are easier to access between each carb.
If you pick the right size screwdriver, after a while you should be able to 'feel' your way onto the top of the screw. Good luck!
39
« on: 02 April 2012, 07:39:52 pm »
Just buy a tube of 'Instant Gasket' from Halfords or somewhere similar- Loctite do a version.
I've used it before when I had to change the clutch cable, and even the garage who replaced my front sprocket used it rather than a proper gasket even though they were an official yamaha part supplier!
40
« on: 01 April 2012, 06:18:27 pm »
I don't think you need to take the carbs off but it does get fiddley at the carb end of the cable.
It's easier to release the cable at the handlebar end first to give you a bit more free play at the carb end. This is simply two screws next to the throttle grip and hook out the cable.
Remove the tank, then remove the coils/fuel pump & filter assembly to get access to the throttle cable at the carbs. If you take the coils from the assembly by removing the bolts and unconnecting the electrical cables (making sure you note which wire fits to each coil) then you can keep the fuel system all still connected by tilting the assembly over to one side.
You will then need to untighten the nut where the throttle cable clamps in and again unhook the cable at that end.
The key is to remove them at the handlebar end first.
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