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Messages - darrsi
Pages: 1 ... 424 425 [426]
10627
« on: 15 May 2012, 10:38:13 pm »
Pictures of what?
You can't see pad deposits by eye, you just feel them grabbing.
I went to work this morning in a virtual monsoon, and it didn't feel too bad at all, so that would aim at a friction problem between pads and discs me thinks.
Now the pads are locked forward after the mod and not flapping about, i reckon if i buff up a set of discs to like new again then break the pads in i'm "hoping" it will all be good again, fingers crossed. (when i say "buff" it takes me about 3hrs to slowly and carefully clean up the face of the discs with aluminium oxide paper in circular movements, until all previous braking marks are gone, it's a pain, but very effective, and they come up like brand new discs)
Just gotta wait for the damn weather to sort itself out first though, i wasn't expecting winter in May......
10628
« on: 15 May 2012, 01:24:57 am »
Pitting's not a problem, slam the brakes on, you'll still stop!!!
Why they're pitting, i can only guess the bike's being left out in bad weather?
10629
« on: 15 May 2012, 01:18:11 am »
Clutch cable knackered ???
10630
« on: 15 May 2012, 01:14:43 am »
Guards are the best thing ever, look good, and save damage, what's not to like?
10631
« on: 13 May 2012, 09:20:07 pm »
Thanks for that Baz.
I did the first mod today and it's certainly stopped the pads from rocking back and forth, they're now held forwards quite firmly.
I noticed the pad pins had started to wear quite recently through all the rattling, i'll probably need to replace them soon so the pads can slide properly.
On the downside, i still had a bit of grabbing/juddering going on still.
I'm hoping that it's deposits on the discs caused by the pads not functioning correctly (i'm totally guessing, i haven't got a clue?), so i think i'm gonna have to clean up another set of discs and start from scratch again and hope with the pads in a firm forward position it will correct itself?
10632
« on: 09 May 2012, 01:18:22 pm »
It more than likely is that spring, BUT, i don't want to say that it 'definitely' is the right one and it turns out not be!!
If you want to email me direct i can always give you my mechanics phone number so you can verify exactly what he did if you want to be positive, as i said before i just gave him the bike and let him do his stuff.
I don't really think i should put his number out on a forum.
10633
« on: 09 May 2012, 09:29:09 am »
UPDATE: I just spoke to my mechanic and it was the gear change "MAIN SELECTOR SPRING" that was changed, and it's certainly sorted it out on my bike.
10634
« on: 08 May 2012, 11:49:40 pm »
I've got the 2000, 600 S model and the spring is actually in the middle, it's a different set up to the one in the photo.
I didn't need any extra gadgets at all luckily.
10635
« on: 08 May 2012, 11:45:20 pm »
Funnily enough i had this exact problem sorted on mine last week. I went to work and on the way i couldn't go past 2nd gear, at first it felt like i was in top gear with nowhere else to go, so a bit of clonking and it then jumped up to 3rd. Then a bit further on it did it again, and i noticed that it had slightly gone past 2nd into a non existent place, almost like it had found a little place sideways, if that makes sense? Gave it a slight tap down and it was properly into 2nd again then it was hit or miss with a bit more clonking to go back up to 3rd.
I was told that the 'selector drum detent wheel' was slightly worn, and should really be replaced, and while it was apart to change a spring as well. Whether it's the one you're saying i'm not actually sure, as i let the mechanic get on with it?
What actually happened was originally a 1 week wait from Fowlers for the 'detent wheel', which then turned into a 4 week wait after a phone call from them.
There was no way i could wait that long so the bike was put back together with just the spring changed and it HAS sorted it out.
In fact i was told afterwards to get a new clutch cable as well, which i did, and now the bike changes gear so smoothly it feels like a brand new bike!!
10636
« on: 08 May 2012, 01:04:40 am »
I know i sound like a big girl, but it really bothered me before i tried it, those springs are savage !!! I'm a pedantic git, and like to do things with the utmost of ease when tested! This one had a very happy ending......almost too easy thankfully........ 
10637
« on: 07 May 2012, 03:03:59 pm »
Ok i finally found the post in the old forum, it's titled "THE BAZHANS BRAKE MOD"
Bit of a shame i can't see the photo's as i would have liked to see how it looks when the retaining spring is put back in place, because from what i've just seen on my bike it will make it a good 4mm longer at the top end so i can only imagine it will arch quite a bit on replacement?
I did however notice that my pads had quite a bit of movement with the pad pin in place so this is definitely a step in the right direction for me at the moment, because i originally thought the slight metallic knocking sound when braking was movement in the semi floating discs!
FAZBAZ: If you by any chance have any photo's of the end result i would very much like to see them. I'm a little bit hesitant to try this straight away as i really need my bike for the rest of the week, and also wouldn't mind locating some new retaining springs first in case i have a disaster!
ALSO: One question i'd like to ask: As the retaining spring is pushed down much firmer than normal, does it effect the side movement at all along the pad pin?
10638
« on: 07 May 2012, 11:14:33 am »
I've had the bike nearly 4 years, BUT, don't forget i've got a different set of forks on, and the wheel is very straight otherwise i'd get some sort of speed wobble, and it's really rock solid over 100mph. I have braided hoses as well.
I left my bike in a mechanics for a day for investigation last year and they phoned me up later after testing different things and told me to pick it up as they were baffled as well!! They didn't even charge me a penny!
FAZBAZ: I'll have a look at the site now, that sounds like a new one to me!!
UPDATE: I can't find any trace of "Scot's Brake Mod" on the old site, i have emailed FazBaz for more info as it sounds very promising to me.
10639
« on: 06 May 2012, 10:36:21 pm »
Uneven brake pad deposits that get left on the discs that cause a grabbing sensation, or juddering as i call it.
The average person would just say that the discs are warped but i know they're not 'cos when i spend 3hrs each time carefully and evenly rubbing off the outer line wear on the discs they look and feel like new, almost glass like, with absolutely no juddering at all, and they're as straight as anything. I also make sure the rivets on the discs are free from any dirt, and not clogged up either
I've tried several different types of pads, EBC, Ceramic, i'm on Galfers at the moment, yet it still comes back.
That's the weird part, because theoretically if i buy new discs and pads then it should happen on any bike they go on to, so it must be something else causing it.
I clean up the calipers whenever i change the discs and use red rubber grease to lubricate the pistons but to be honest they're so well looked after they don't really need it, but i do them anyway, but i'm wondering if it's something that i can't see.
I've done everything that i can think of so that's why i'm now on here to rack everyone else's brains.
It's pointless taking it to a bike shop as they'll just say change the discs, which will work, for a while, 'cos i've already been down that road and it's not a cheap one!!
I've been a biker for nearly 25 years now, it's always been my only transport so i'm not inexperienced at all, but i'm holding my hands up to this one, i'm well and truly stumped!
10640
« on: 06 May 2012, 09:06:25 pm »
Does anyone know if there's an alternative to the blue spot front brake calipers, maybe with just 2 pots rather than 4 on each one?
I've had a continuous nightmare with front brake juddering for a few years now, which i deal with by carefully rubbing down discs so they're like new and rotating them about every 6 months which i'm used to doing but is obviously a pain in the arse.
I've got 3 pairs of discs, 2 that were brand new after market discs and 1 set that were 2nd hand originals.
I've been biking for years and never had trouble with any brakes at all that i can remember but this bike is driving me nuts.
It's definitely caused by uneven deposits on the discs because when i clean them up they work perfectly for a while, so they're not warped at all, and i do the recommended bedding in procedure. I've had new discs with new pads, and overhauled the calipers but it still comes back, and there's no leaking anywhere.
In fact up until i realised it was the deposits i've done virtually everything else you can think of, bearings, different pads, discs, even new forks.
The only thing i've not changed is the calipers, so was wondering are there other calipers i could try, OR, is there a trick that i really don't know about that you could enlighten me with?
As you can imagine i've spent a lot of time, effort and money trying to sort this out but i am totally baffled?
I'm open to any suggestions, other than "get another bike" as the rest of the bike is spot on!
It's a 2000 FZS600 S by the way, not that it really matters.
10641
« on: 06 May 2012, 08:23:12 pm »
20 LITRE TANK INSTEAD OF 18 LITRE AS WELL
10642
« on: 06 May 2012, 08:05:53 pm »
Look up SP Engineering, i have their Moto GP exhaust on my bike, their website will direct you to a YouTube clip when you select your bike.
Not only do they sound bloody awesome, they're road legal as well.
10643
« on: 06 May 2012, 07:14:24 pm »
Just a quick note for anyone thinking of replacing their centre stand for whatever reason (mine was cracked).
I'd been putting it off for a while as i was trying to think of a novel way of extending the stand springs, because believe me, when you have the inner and outer springs in your hand you really will wonder how to get it hooked on as they are pretty damn solid.
I searched the internet and thought of all kinds of tricks i could use, but today found out it was all a fuss about nothing.
Once the old one is unbolted, with the bike on the side stand, you simply hook the springs on to the bike and the stand, then put one bolt in first (with a little grease where the stand will swivel) and put a nut on it to stop it falling out, then you can really easily lever the other side into place, then stick the other bolt in.
I put a little bit of Loctite on the the nuts before tightening them up.
And that was it !!!
No wonder i couldn't find any tips or tricks because it was that easy, but i thought i'd put it on here just in case some other poor sod has the same dilemma.
One thing i will mention is that i have a new exhaust, and the replacement stand was slightly hitting it so i had the edge of the stand taken down a bit to stop it rubbing.
10644
« on: 30 October 2011, 05:42:07 pm »
There's some Galfer pads for around half the normal price on Ebay at the moment which i've had on my bike for a while. I've found them to be very good. 
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