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Messages - Motopsycho87
1
« on: 01 August 2016, 08:23:29 pm »
Bit annoyed, I've bought a spare head, rebuilt it, stripped the bike apart, only to find oil in the inlets. Which says to me it's getting through the crankcase breather... Anyone found this before?
2
« on: 17 July 2016, 06:23:27 pm »
Hi all, got a problem with my bike keeps overheating in slow traffic.
I've just changed the fuse as it was blown for the fan motor, it now runs after a couple minutes idling in neutral, but when the light comes on the fan comes on really gently. When I bridge the terminal the fan comes in full power, but after about 30 seconds it starts slowing down to an almost stop, and takes a minute before I bridge it again to get full speed out of it.
So my question is, does the ecu control the duration of the fan? Relative to available voltage maybe? And I'm pretty certain I should be replacing the thermo unit yeah?
Cheers!
3
« on: 26 June 2016, 11:54:33 pm »
Bought myself a spare head to play with, can't find valves stem seals at a reasonable price, anyone got a set laying around?
4
« on: 23 June 2016, 01:36:08 pm »
Just wondering if anyone has ground their exhaust port to match their exhaust? The port seems to be a D shape as opposed to round, any benefit to matching it? Got a spare head to play with
5
« on: 21 June 2016, 10:11:51 pm »
Goldfren s33 are awesome and don't stag the discs like etc HH
6
« on: 12 April 2016, 06:26:16 pm »
Ha! That's lucky to say the least! Took me about an hour before I figured it out mind you!
7
« on: 06 April 2016, 10:58:46 pm »
Height is normally measured from the point directly above the spindle. Fitted a 50mm kit on mine and it really changed the bike for the better!
8
« on: 06 April 2016, 10:56:45 pm »
Rebuilt my forks the other day with no special tools, my guess was they'd been apart once, if only to fit more preload spacers, the oil was thick black snot with bits in. Did it all with no special tools, bushes were still good. To undo the dampening rod I put a 27mm socket down the tube and held it still with an extra long flathead screwdriver.
9
« on: 26 March 2016, 10:41:51 pm »
The fix being poison pellets in the vent hoses...
10
« on: 26 March 2016, 10:41:02 pm »
Go for the flat bars. So much better.
11
« on: 26 March 2016, 03:58:44 pm »
A fucking dead ant in my main jet...
12
« on: 26 March 2016, 01:49:36 pm »
Right, so changed the sparks plugs, ignition coils and leads. Still no different. There was a lot of corrosion everywhere, but nothing obvious.
So now my next possible thought is the carbs. What can go all of a sudden and stop a cylinder running at high RPM? When I installed Ivan's I fitted new carb rubbers, everything was to spec, and it ran perfect. All of a sudden, one cylinder seems to be not firing, but only at high RPM, its perfectly smooth at low revs...
Cleaned out that 'white connector' with contact cleaner too, then slapped with white grease and re-assembled. Nothing.
Only thing that makes sense atm is a blocked main jet... in which must be a big lump of shit to achieve that!
13
« on: 25 March 2016, 09:24:45 am »
Got renthal flat bars on with no bar ends... Guess my balls are soaking it all up before it gets to the bars...
14
« on: 21 March 2016, 04:49:11 pm »
Found this on eBay, using my pinky as a measurement against the 10mm spanner, it's about 80-100mm long before the hinge.
15
« on: 21 March 2016, 04:44:05 pm »
No EXUP on bike I'm afraid!
16
« on: 20 March 2016, 05:32:24 pm »
Apparently a white block of wires behind the left hand panel can be a problem?
17
« on: 20 March 2016, 05:11:09 pm »
Ridden over a few leave but would be damn surprised! Added to the checklist though...
18
« on: 20 March 2016, 03:14:01 pm »
Hi guys, been out for a 100 mile play today, towards the end of the ride me and a mate decided to drag race (on a privately owned airstrip...), after the first couple gears the bike started to fall flat. Now no matter what gear I'm in it seems to misfire over about 7-8krpm. It ran perfect in recent weeks doing the same, but all of a sudden today it struggles,it sounds more like it's on 3 cylinders than 2.
So besides the obvious, clean connectors, snip the HT leads, replace the plugs. Any other thoughts? Coils are pretty cheap so I'll snatch some up while I'm at it. Are there any common faults that would act like this?
Cheers!
19
« on: 18 March 2016, 08:30:29 pm »
Christ! Replating must be a bugger then! Suppose I should actually go look at the bike sometime. I'll pinch my Dad's compression tester tomorrow... I'm guessing normal spark plug sockets don't work neither...?
20
« on: 17 March 2016, 09:08:48 pm »
Also, can anyone tell me where the crankcase breather is? I've not noticed it yet, but I know a previous owner ran pods before the box went back on, might have been dumb enough to cap it off...?
21
« on: 17 March 2016, 08:57:51 pm »
Hrmm, just hoping it's not the rings. Looking at the mileage it sat for a while which can be the cause of dry stem seals. You know what the compression test results should be??
22
« on: 17 March 2016, 08:35:04 pm »
Hi all, my bike is burning a bit of oil at start up, and the first couple times you rev the tits off it when warm, bike is 45k miles 2002. I've already bought the gasket set to do the valve stems, you reckon it's worth doing the rings when apart? I've read the head can be removed in frame, barrel too?
23
« on: 16 March 2016, 01:17:30 pm »
Cheeky ****  , I'll do my sag settings on the weekend and find out for certain!
24
« on: 16 March 2016, 10:19:55 am »
It feels a lot better and is pretty stiff tbf, the preload is about mid point, so I'm thinking the springs may have been swapped at some point. Getting the dirt bike suspension soon sorted this week so I'll worry about the roady soon.
25
« on: 14 March 2016, 09:55:29 pm »
Check the voltage while running to make sure your charging system is working.
Then if it doesn't start, bridge the 2 connectors on the solenoid with a spanner, expect sparks, and don't lean on any metal or anything, it should start right away, if not, battery is fubar.
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