Oh christ, he asked the oil question.... :'( :'(
Welcome Chris :D
Oil is a much discussed topic - some (the misguided fools ;) )will say you must buy bike specific oil such as Motul 7100 or similar, while others will say that if Mr Yamaha states CF or SL spec (which he does, for an FZS600) then any that meets that spec is champion. I'll leave you to work out which camp I fall into 8) .
Filter wise, I've always used generic from my local bike shop, never had any bother.
I'm staying out of this ... :lol
I refer m'learned friends to previous discussions.
[url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,666.0.html[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,666.0.html[/url])
Great. In regards to champion oil can anyone recommend a good supplier. Also would you recommend putting in a K&N air filter?
I use Castrol Power 1 Racing Oil and Champion Oil Filter........... job done ;)
I use Castrol Power 1 Racing Oil and Champion Oil Filter........... job done ;)
Thought u were only supposed to run fazers on semi syn? :\
Thought u were only supposed to run fazers on semi syn? :\
Hi Guys,
I have some Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil left over from my car service, that I am hoping i can use for my bike. I have been told the Haynes manual states my FZS 600 (2003) needs 10W-40 oil.
[/size][/color]
[/size]Being "5W" means the oil is designed to work at lower temperatures than the recommended "10W", does anyone know if this will affect the viscosity at higher temperatures? And therefore damage/wear my engine? [/color]
[/size]Thanks![/color]
Its the "lifeblood" of the engine so if Yamaha say 10W40 semi-synthetic thats what to use. Some car oils contain friction modifiers which work fine in car engines with their dry clutches & separate gearbox oil, but can play havoc in wet clutch(motorcycle) engines. Not worth the risk for the sake of a few quid.
The K&N oil filter comes with an attached nut.
The K&N oil filter comes with an attached nut.
PRE-ROUNDED nut! :eek I've never had this nut work. :rolleyes ;)
Always removed my oil filters with a marigold glove after wiping first because my arms are like the Incredible Hulk. :rolleyes :2fingers
As for the oil - irrespective of 10w/40, 10w30 etc the basics comes down to the fact that bike oil is designed with crushing qualities that allow for 8k oil changes after being crushed by gears, cogs etc. Car oil is essentially ok, as used by others, but the crushing qualities of the oil only last about 3k miles before it needs changing.
Me, I use semi synthetic bike oil because I can't be asked to change the oil every 3k miles if I use car oil.
Always removed my oil filters with a marigold glove after wiping first because my arms are like the Incredible Hulk. :rolleyes :2fingers
As for the oil - irrespective of 10w/40, 10w30 etc the basics comes down to the fact that bike oil is designed with crushing qualities that allow for 8k oil changes after being crushed by gears, cogs etc. Car oil is essentially ok, as used by others, but the crushing qualities of the oil only last about 3k miles before it needs changing.
Me, I use semi synthetic bike oil because I can't be asked to change the oil every 3k miles if I use car oil.
Always removed my oil filters with a marigold glove after wiping first because my arms are like the Incredible Hulk. :rolleyes :2fingers
As for the oil - irrespective of 10w/40, 10w30 etc the basics comes down to the fact that bike oil is designed with crushing qualities that allow for 8k oil changes after being crushed by gears, cogs etc. Car oil is essentially ok, as used by others, but the crushing qualities of the oil only last about 3k miles before it needs changing.
Me, I use semi synthetic bike oil because I can't be asked to change the oil every 3k miles if I use car oil.
:lol :lol Only 'cos I wank a lot Tommy :'(